But 1/250s is way too slow. Use a higher ISO and get those shutterspeeds up and I bet you increase that keeper rate significantly.
Cheers,
-joel
I humbly disagree Joel.
I shoot the 70-200 f2.8 IS L at 1/50th and 1/100th and get fine images when using IS. Now I do agree, that is not my first choice, nor is it a recommendation for others to do. I am sure divamum will be able to also.
But I am sure that a lot of pros, shoot that lens at shutter speeds less than 1/250th and still come home with fine images.
I do hold my breath just before shooting also.......
I shoot the 70-200 f2.8 IS L at 1/50th and 1/100th and get fine images when using IS.
Yeah, but Divamum is using the 200 F2.8 prime lens which doesn't have IS. You still disagree?
Personally on a crop body camera with a lens without IS, I like to go double the 1/focal-length rule just to be safe. I agree that with IS anything goes!
I've made a living using a 70-200L f/2.8 IS (rodeo's), and so I've learned what works for me shooting with this lens & what doesn't.
I expect that you'll just have to find what works for you personally. What may work for one person may not work at all for you.
That being said, here are a couple of "food for thought" items:
1)
I don't know what camera body you are using, but make sure that you are NOT using the "helper" invisible focus points that surround the center focus point. (deactivate in custom functions) On the 5D2, there are six of these, and when enabled will regularly grab something other than where the "visible" center focus square is aimed.
2)
For hand-holding and shooting:
First: get a good solid stance. Place your right foot pointing outward at about a 70 degree angle to your subject.
Second: feet about shoulder width apart, point your left foot (generally) toward your subject, bend that knee slightly and put weight on that front foot.
Third: Cradle your lens barrel in your left hand.
Forth: Your left elbow, position it from it's natural position inward toward your torso, maybe 3~4 inches. You'll immediately notice that it "torques" your arm. This tension helps very much to stabilize your arm. (sort of like a sharp shooter will wrap his rifle sling around his arm, to create tension/torque ~ same principle)
Fifth: Now, drop your left shoulder and "tuck" your left elbow into your body. This does two things; it torques your upper body/shoulder with your neck/head = more stability. ~~~ Your tucked in elbow is now anchored, giving stability to the whole thing.
Sixth: Your shoulders "right to left" should now pretty much be in-line with your camera lens, pointing toward your subject. In other words, your belt buckle and upper torso should be pointing about 90 degrees to the "camera right" of your subject.
Seventh: Breathing... Do some real testing here using your long lens & watch the image/lens movement while noting your breathing pattern.
For me, holding my breath is NOT my most stable technique. I just control my breathing, taking note of my breath and time my shot to release at the stopping point of my diaphragm. (that would be, at the end of an exhale, I'll shoot at that transition time before I start to fill my lungs again) I suspect (from a lifetime of rifle shooting) that everyone will do this a little differently. What's really important here is to really take note of your breathing and shoot when your the most stable.
I know reading this sounds complicated, but it's not hard at all. If you could "see" the process, you'd understand it in about 10 seconds.
Anyway, I hope any of this helps, and congrats on the new lens
Yeah, but Divamum is using the 200 F2.8 prime lens which doesn't have IS. You still disagree?
Personally on a crop body camera with a lens without IS, I like to go double the 1/focal-length rule just to be safe. I agree that with IS anything goes!
Cheers,
-joel
You are correct, I forgot that she was using the fixed f2.8 prime and not a 70-200 IS zoom. That's what happens when I read the beginning of this thread several days and several thousand miles ago
I would suggest a minimum shutter speed of 1/500th for a new user with the 200 prime and a crop body camera - not every one will agree and that is ok by me.
I support the lens with my left hand, with my left elbow tucked into my chest or belly ( depending on whether I am leaning forward or backward ) and brace the body against my forehead. Some bird shooters prefer to shoot with the left hand on top of their right shoulder, cradling the lens on top of the bend in their left elbow, but I never really warmed to that and continue to go my own way.
Thin dof + selective focusing can be enough to throw things whacky.... Just that variant of lens plane alone can be enough, depending on the situation.
Comments
I humbly disagree Joel.
I shoot the 70-200 f2.8 IS L at 1/50th and 1/100th and get fine images when using IS. Now I do agree, that is not my first choice, nor is it a recommendation for others to do. I am sure divamum will be able to also.
But I am sure that a lot of pros, shoot that lens at shutter speeds less than 1/250th and still come home with fine images.
I do hold my breath just before shooting also.......
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Yeah, but Divamum is using the 200 F2.8 prime lens which doesn't have IS.
Personally on a crop body camera with a lens without IS, I like to go double the 1/focal-length rule just to be safe. I agree that with IS anything goes!
Cheers,
-joel
Link to my Smugmug site
I've made a living using a 70-200L f/2.8 IS (rodeo's), and so I've learned what works for me shooting with this lens & what doesn't.
I expect that you'll just have to find what works for you personally. What may work for one person may not work at all for you.
That being said, here are a couple of "food for thought" items:
1)
I don't know what camera body you are using, but make sure that you are NOT using the "helper" invisible focus points that surround the center focus point. (deactivate in custom functions) On the 5D2, there are six of these, and when enabled will regularly grab something other than where the "visible" center focus square is aimed.
2)
For hand-holding and shooting:
First: get a good solid stance. Place your right foot pointing outward at about a 70 degree angle to your subject.
Second: feet about shoulder width apart, point your left foot (generally) toward your subject, bend that knee slightly and put weight on that front foot.
Third: Cradle your lens barrel in your left hand.
Forth: Your left elbow, position it from it's natural position inward toward your torso, maybe 3~4 inches. You'll immediately notice that it "torques" your arm. This tension helps very much to stabilize your arm. (sort of like a sharp shooter will wrap his rifle sling around his arm, to create tension/torque ~ same principle)
Fifth: Now, drop your left shoulder and "tuck" your left elbow into your body. This does two things; it torques your upper body/shoulder with your neck/head = more stability. ~~~ Your tucked in elbow is now anchored, giving stability to the whole thing.
Sixth: Your shoulders "right to left" should now pretty much be in-line with your camera lens, pointing toward your subject. In other words, your belt buckle and upper torso should be pointing about 90 degrees to the "camera right" of your subject.
Seventh: Breathing... Do some real testing here using your long lens & watch the image/lens movement while noting your breathing pattern.
For me, holding my breath is NOT my most stable technique. I just control my breathing, taking note of my breath and time my shot to release at the stopping point of my diaphragm. (that would be, at the end of an exhale, I'll shoot at that transition time before I start to fill my lungs again) I suspect (from a lifetime of rifle shooting) that everyone will do this a little differently. What's really important here is to really take note of your breathing and shoot when your the most stable.
I know reading this sounds complicated, but it's not hard at all. If you could "see" the process, you'd understand it in about 10 seconds.
Anyway, I hope any of this helps, and congrats on the new lens
You are correct, I forgot that she was using the fixed f2.8 prime and not a 70-200 IS zoom. That's what happens when I read the beginning of this thread several days and several thousand miles ago
I would suggest a minimum shutter speed of 1/500th for a new user with the 200 prime and a crop body camera - not every one will agree and that is ok by me.
I support the lens with my left hand, with my left elbow tucked into my chest or belly ( depending on whether I am leaning forward or backward ) and brace the body against my forehead. Some bird shooters prefer to shoot with the left hand on top of their right shoulder, cradling the lens on top of the bend in their left elbow, but I never really warmed to that and continue to go my own way.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin