Is it me, or my gear? C&C (of sorts) requested.
frons
Registered Users Posts: 90 Big grins
I am not a n00b when it comes to macro, but since going digital this spring I am beginning to wonder if my new camera is revealing the limitations of my gear or my technique. Or maybe my expectations exceed the laws of physics.
I've been using a D200 with the Micro-Nikkor 200 f/4 IF I bought many years ago. It is capable of making sharp photos, but it is a dated design, and I am wondering if I should be looking for a sharper lens. The camera/lens combo is always mounted on a Kirk BH-1 head and Benbo Trekker tripod.
Dragonfly photography is 95% of the macro I do (in season), so working distance is important, but I wonder if the longer focal length eliminates the DOF I want. Catch-22? Attached is a typical pic with the wings/abdomen sharp in the plane of focus, but the head/shoulders are soft. Is there any gear combo or technique that could remedy this?
(This is my first request for C&C, so if it isn't really feasible with an attached jpg, let me know and I'll find a way to link to a different image)
Here's the pertinent EXIF info.
File name: Lcyanea.jpg
File size: 137714 bytes (2896x1944, 0.2bpp, 123x)
EXIF Summary: 1/80s f/11.0 ISO100 200mm (35mm eq:300mm)
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Camera Model: NIKON D200
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution: 300 dpi
Vertical Resolution: 300 dpi
Exposure Time: 1/80 sec
F-Number: f/11.0
Exposure Program: Manual
ISO Speed Rating: 100
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Metering Mode: Pattern
Light Source: Unknown
Flash: Flash, Return Not Detected
Focal Length: 200.00 mm
Color Space Information: sRGB
Image Width: 2896
Image Height: 1944
Rendering: Normal
Exposure Mode: Manual
Scene Capture Type: Standard
Contrast: Normal
Sharpness: Normal
Subject Distance Range: Unknown
ISO Speed Used: 100
Color Mode: COLOR
Image Quality: FINE
White Balance: AUTO
Image Sharpening: AUTO
Focus Mode: MANUAL
Flash Setting: NORMAL
Auto Flash Mode: Built-in,TTL
Flash Compensation: 0.0 EV
ISO Speed Requested: 100
Flash Bracket Compensation: 0.0 EV
AE Bracket Compensation: 0.0 EV
Tone Compensation: AUTO
Lens Type: Unknown
Lens Range: 0.0 mm; f/0.0
Auto Focus: Center
Shooting/Bracketing Mode: Single Frame/Off
Color Mode: MODE1
Lighting Type: SPEEDLIGHT
Noise Reduction: OFF
Camera Actuations: 696
Image Optimization: NORMAL
Saturation 2: AUTO
Other Properties:
Image Compression Mode: 4
White Balance: Auto
Digital Zoom Ratio: 1
Saturation: Normal
Flash Used: No
I've been using a D200 with the Micro-Nikkor 200 f/4 IF I bought many years ago. It is capable of making sharp photos, but it is a dated design, and I am wondering if I should be looking for a sharper lens. The camera/lens combo is always mounted on a Kirk BH-1 head and Benbo Trekker tripod.
Dragonfly photography is 95% of the macro I do (in season), so working distance is important, but I wonder if the longer focal length eliminates the DOF I want. Catch-22? Attached is a typical pic with the wings/abdomen sharp in the plane of focus, but the head/shoulders are soft. Is there any gear combo or technique that could remedy this?
(This is my first request for C&C, so if it isn't really feasible with an attached jpg, let me know and I'll find a way to link to a different image)
Here's the pertinent EXIF info.
File name: Lcyanea.jpg
File size: 137714 bytes (2896x1944, 0.2bpp, 123x)
EXIF Summary: 1/80s f/11.0 ISO100 200mm (35mm eq:300mm)
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Camera Model: NIKON D200
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution: 300 dpi
Vertical Resolution: 300 dpi
Exposure Time: 1/80 sec
F-Number: f/11.0
Exposure Program: Manual
ISO Speed Rating: 100
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Metering Mode: Pattern
Light Source: Unknown
Flash: Flash, Return Not Detected
Focal Length: 200.00 mm
Color Space Information: sRGB
Image Width: 2896
Image Height: 1944
Rendering: Normal
Exposure Mode: Manual
Scene Capture Type: Standard
Contrast: Normal
Sharpness: Normal
Subject Distance Range: Unknown
ISO Speed Used: 100
Color Mode: COLOR
Image Quality: FINE
White Balance: AUTO
Image Sharpening: AUTO
Focus Mode: MANUAL
Flash Setting: NORMAL
Auto Flash Mode: Built-in,TTL
Flash Compensation: 0.0 EV
ISO Speed Requested: 100
Flash Bracket Compensation: 0.0 EV
AE Bracket Compensation: 0.0 EV
Tone Compensation: AUTO
Lens Type: Unknown
Lens Range: 0.0 mm; f/0.0
Auto Focus: Center
Shooting/Bracketing Mode: Single Frame/Off
Color Mode: MODE1
Lighting Type: SPEEDLIGHT
Noise Reduction: OFF
Camera Actuations: 696
Image Optimization: NORMAL
Saturation 2: AUTO
Other Properties:
Image Compression Mode: 4
White Balance: Auto
Digital Zoom Ratio: 1
Saturation: Normal
Flash Used: No
0
Comments
From your description it's the DOF that is bothering you ?
If so this will be the same with another lens at the same magnification and aperture.
Backing off a bit to give the same FOV as you obtained with the 35mm film camera should give you slightly more DOF with a crop camera than you obtained with the film camera.
Brian V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
Here is a link to a HQ jpg where you can see everything in the plane of focus is as sharp as the lens is capable; there may be room for improvement there with a different lens. Maybe a modern 90 or 150 mm lens would still give me adequate working distance and have improved sharpness. I've considered the Sigma 70, but that just isn't long enough for active specimens. For subjects in the early morning, though...
Brian V.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/