Seeking C&C on 3rd Motocross Shoot
Okay, I want to go ahead and post a few of these hoping to get some feedback on additional areas to work on getting better. I do feel these are an improvement over my July post. I am using a gray card but the red dirt made it difficult for me to control WB but I am still learning there too. So let me know what you think (If you want to see the bigger versions the gallery is at http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/gallery/9332772_3qnVi#623945021_nKeMe ).
Thanks,
Andy
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Thanks,
Andy
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Andy
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
0
Comments
Sites: AdrianGauthier.com | SportsShooter.com Profile
Love the shots of the young ones, parents would love them!
Nikon D3 & D3s
2xSB-900 Speedlights
Tokina 12-24 f4, Nikon 50 f1.8, 28-70 f2.8,70-200 f2.8 VR, 1.7x TC , 200-400 f4 vrII
...more to come!
Thanks Kiz5 - This jump was an uphill and I was higher than the take off and landing. I will try to get some lower positions next time.
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
In some of these I adjusted the Levels very slightly on the lower side just to help the bike and rider stand out more, and it appeared to help. The only other thing I did was cropping and a little USM.
I agree about the wheel spin. My first shoot I was using speeds around 1/1250. This time I tried to increase the motion of the wheels so I shot more around 1/800. it seems to have made the nobbies out of focus but no real blur.
Maybe I can post a couple without adjusting the WB to see what people think.
And my wife liked the the little ones too!
Thanks again,
Andy
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
F/4.5 huh, that's a good place to be. Most all of these have a background that is in focus. Some are blurred, but most aren't. I would think at 4.5 they would be more blurred.
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
Hey Andy.
A little confusing here.
You are using a grey card for exposure, correct, not to white balance I hope.
Overall I think they are nice except for the exposures.
You did a good job picking spots to shoot that have good action and clean backgrounds.
The problem is with the exposures, and I think for sure the grey card is the problem.
It is really difficult to shoot with a gray card when on location, by your self, and in changing light.
You are making things WAY to difficult for yourself IMO. You are correct in trying to learn, but are doing it in about the most difficult situation possible.
Carry a light meter if you want to go old school
Also, always better to underexpose a little than overexpose. You can correct later in PP and the images will look much better.
Great job on capturing some good MX action, just save the grey card for the studio.
Oh Gosh! Actually I am using the gray card to set the custom White Balance. I lay the card down and take a shot and use it for the custom WB. Is that wrong? Would you recommend using Auto White Balance or choosing one of the other modes such as Cloudy or Sunny (depending on conditions).
I am not even sure how I would use it to set exposure. For exposure I am taking a shot, looking at the Histogram and adjusting to get it close then looking at the image (zooming in) to make any more fine tuning of the exposure - either ISO or Speed.
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
Maybe I need to go back to 2.8 or 3.2 like I shot on July 5th at same track. Although conditions were VERY different very cloudy that day and even periods of rain sprinkles compare to last Sunday that was very Sunny and Hot! Do the colors in photo below look any better from the July shoot?
1. Here is f/2.8, Speed 1/640, and ISO 640
2. f/3.2, ISO 125, Speed 1/800
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
...unless you are a 'Manual Only' Person, this may work for you! !!
Nikon D3 & D3s
2xSB-900 Speedlights
Tokina 12-24 f4, Nikon 50 f1.8, 28-70 f2.8,70-200 f2.8 VR, 1.7x TC , 200-400 f4 vrII
...more to come!
BCS - I have actually tried that idea before. I tried using AV, TV, and M mode and dialing in the camera for each mode and then going back and forth to see how it works (I think that was during soccer season). Anyway I got so confused I took a bunch in DEP-A mode which were just awful! All operator error - need more experience.
Looking forward to my next chance at MX!
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
Ooops...
Grey card for exposure, white card for white balance
Alone, and on location, I would not do either. Again, its great that you are trying to learn, just do it in a more controlled environment so you have a quality result from your effort.
On location, I almost always shoot with the white balance set to cloudy. It gives a nice slightly warm tone to the image. Correct White balance is not near as important on location, and since it is changing throughout the day, it is very hard to keep up with it.
In the studio, shooting product for ads, white balance is very important as the client wants to see colors as color correct as possible. I do a custom white balance to the strobes to ensure a correct color match.
If you guys want to see some of my work you can check it out here.
www.bushproductions.net
I have been working as a freelance photographer / scout for this company for about 15 years.
We shoot most all the ad work for Yamaha and also have done tons of work for Honda, Chevy and others over the years.
Since I freelance for them, all the images are owned by them and I cant / dont show them for self promotion. But at least it will give you an idea of some of the type of work I do.
Since most guys reeding this are into MX I thought you might like to check it out.
MY....
GORSH......!
Seriously... You cannot EVER have a bad day at work! Amazing. That website is close to making me put my gear up for sale on ebay to the lowest bidder.
All i got!
I may send you emails from time to time!!! Amazing work! BTW: Which one are you in those shots?
Nikon D3 & D3s
2xSB-900 Speedlights
Tokina 12-24 f4, Nikon 50 f1.8, 28-70 f2.8,70-200 f2.8 VR, 1.7x TC , 200-400 f4 vrII
...more to come!
Hey.
I thought you moto guys might like that
We just put that site up a few months ago. Never needed one till the economy went in the hole.
If you look in the behind the scenes.......
3rd pic is Lawson, one of my twin boys
pic #6 is me on the ladder
pic #8 is me on the far left in the snow
Pic #13 is me on the snowmobile
Lots of others in there. If its a dorky guy with a camera having fun, its probably me
Feel free to pm me here, or ask me any questions that you think I may be able to help out with.
My e-mail is
nwlocations@verizon.net
This is my main email and is connected to my scouting site / www.nwlocations.com
And don't you EVER EVER sell your cameras!!!!
I have read so much about how using a gray card for the white balance was the way to go - Oh well.
And Scout - I loved those pictures , thanks for sharing the link.
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
This video looks a little dorky, but explains WB pretty well
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2Q2aSgTZPc