Mossy water.. How do i fix this?
Bayer-Z28
Registered Users Posts: 392 Major grins
When I TRY to get a decent shot, something always doesn't come out exactly right. This is a part technique and part lightroom question.
What can I do to this pic? I merged a couple layers trying to get the underside of the bridge. But the color just isn't there for me.. It just doesn't pop the way I'd like it to.
What can I do to this pic? I merged a couple layers trying to get the underside of the bridge. But the color just isn't there for me.. It just doesn't pop the way I'd like it to.
Auto enthusiast. I drive a 2000 Camaro Z28. LOADED w/ mods.
Camera: Nikon D80, 18-55 f3.5 stocker & 18-200 Nikon VR.... with a small collection of filters..
My Smugmug.. STILL Under construction.
http://bayer-Z28.smugmug.com
Camera: Nikon D80, 18-55 f3.5 stocker & 18-200 Nikon VR.... with a small collection of filters..
My Smugmug.. STILL Under construction.
http://bayer-Z28.smugmug.com
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THis is one of mine, and I still am not fully satisfied with my HDR work, especially with moving water which I think offers real challenges, but also real opportunities. My HDR's don't have the pop in color i want sometimes, and moving water can create strange artifacts and colors as well
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Sweet Work!
I am with you. Higher f stop with low ISO and as long exposure as you can get will bring out the colors. Even flash the underside of the bridge by hand if your exposure is long enough. The filter will help reduce glare and also help gain you more exposure time.
That is why the original poster was shooting more than one frame and trying to composite them.
You need 3 -5 stops different exposure for the shaded under side of the bridge and the highlights in the sky. The "easiest" way to do this is HDR, with at least three frames shot 0 ED, -2 EC and + 2 EC. You might actually need +/- 3 stops EC.
Adding flash could be done of course to the under side of the bridge. Might be hard to cover that large area evenly and uniformly.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
If I was shooting this handheld, I'd try spot metering the underside of the bridge or the water and then dialing in -1 or -2 EV. That will put the bridge or water in shadow but with details visible. I'd also shoot RAW so that Lightroom will have as much data as possible to try to tweak highlight recovery and fill light.
Or I'd cheat and take multiple exposures and merge them, as others have suggested.
Either way, I suspect that the vibrance and clarity sliders will help give this some "pop."
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
If the goal is to take a single correct exposure, then HDR is cheating. Or at the very least, may involve more time and equipment than is/was available. I know I don't always carry a tripod with me, for example. And HDR is not directly available in Lightroom, which is the only software we know for certain the OP has.
Personally, I'd just expose for the bridge and let the highlights blow out, but that's just me.
But then I don't under stand the comment about "merging a couple of layers" if the OP ONLY has Lightroom. Merging layers sounds like something done in Photoshop to me.
I am not aware of blending modes in Lightroom
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
It's ok. I don't know what I'm talking about.
I do stand by my assertion that a) shooting RAW, b) spot metering for the bridge or water, possibly at -1 or -2 EV, and judicious use of recovery, fill light, vibrance and clarity sliders is probably the best way to start approaching this image. I wouldn't worry too much about highlights blowing out, as they're pretty much blown anyway, and not critical to the image in any case.
If I had time and inclination, I'd consider taking two or more exposures and blending them together.
I do agree that if the plan is to shoot a single frame and try to capture the under side of the bridge as well as the surrounding water and possibly sky, what you describe is how I would approach the exposure also.
Shooing RAW and use of Recovery and Fill sliders has been a dramatic improvement in the processing of digital files for me. I have been going back and re-editing files that I shot prior to the Fill and Recovery sliders, and find I can make much better images with the newer RAW software than I could several years ago. Handling highlights and shadow tones has gotten much better.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin