Recommendation
Hi all!
I'm open to recommendations (based on experience, not word of mouth please). I am in the market for a new camera (DSLR). I am big into action shots, specially drag racing. Often times my shoots take me from early morning to late night. So I need something with a hot shoe as well as something that will allow me to get crisp shots of my racers during the most intense times. I'd also like something fairly universal for less action oriented shots, for my journeys. I'd love to hear your feedback.
Thanks! :thumb
I'm open to recommendations (based on experience, not word of mouth please). I am in the market for a new camera (DSLR). I am big into action shots, specially drag racing. Often times my shoots take me from early morning to late night. So I need something with a hot shoe as well as something that will allow me to get crisp shots of my racers during the most intense times. I'd also like something fairly universal for less action oriented shots, for my journeys. I'd love to hear your feedback.
Thanks! :thumb
0
Comments
* Fast Continuous Shooting -- will 3fps cut it? Do you need 6? 8? 10?
* Also, how many pics can the camera take before filling the buffer, forcing you to wait until an image is written before letting you take any more? (Usually only an issue with RAW images. But if you shoot raw, this is a biggie...)
* Low Light Performance -- I'm assuming you're going to be needing some pretty high shutter speeds here, especially at night, so you're probably going to need a cam that can give good results at very high ISO. Only you know what you can tolerate in terms of noise -- but try a camera out on ISO 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800, and 25600 and see how far you can stomach it. (In general the cheaper the camera, the worse it performs in this test. A 5D Mark II will do better at 6400 than will a T1i, given the Full-Frame vs. APS-C sensor)
* What lenses have you -- For me, I'm going to be pretty loyal to Canon since all my lenses are Canon. Especially my expensive lenses! So that might decide a good part of your choice right there...
* Do you need to purchase lenses -- if you don't have some fast lenses, you might need them -- for zooms, aim for f/2.8, and for primes aim for f/1.4 or 1.8. (Or lower, if you can afford it). These are going to be more expensive, and quite possibly might be a better choice than an expensive camera, depending upon your needs. (For example -- your camera body might be replaced in three or four years. That lens, if treated well, will probably last you ten or more years, with good resale.)
* How do you like your cameras? -- And again, only you can answer this. At the moment, I'm more than perfectly content with my XSi/T1i. They feel better in my hands than a 50d does. The controls are second nature to me. They are lighter, too -- but not as well built. I'll live with that, especially if I'm going to replace them in a couple years or so. Believe me, though, TRY them out. If you are uncomfortable while shooting, it'll show through in the images you take.
So - that probably didn't help you any... ;-) Any dSLR with fast lenses will probably do serviceably, but full-frame will do better in low light. Will it matter? Depends on what you can stand in terms of noise and price. I would suggest renting a few out, finding out which ones you like the feel of vs. image quality, and buy the one you can live with for a while.
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Note: I won't be offended if you edit my photo and repost it on dgrin -- I'm always open to new interpretations
and ideas, and any helpful hints, tips, and/or critiques are welcome. Just don't post the edit anywhere else
but dgrin, please.
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from a nikon POV..your best best is the D3 ($5k) + 70-200mm VR ($2k). This has the best/fastest autofocus and best ISO (low light) performance in class.
if that is too expsensive then the d700 body ($2.7k) is going to be your 2nd best choice.
if that is too expensive then the d300 body ($1.6k) is the next best choice (slightly less robust AF system and decreased ISO performace then above) but better zoom reach since it is crop sensor.
The last choice would be the d90 ($1k) which has teh d300 sesnor but less robust AF thought still fairly good.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
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Bumblebee, welcome to the Digital Grin.
Recommendations will depend upon your shooting style as well as your expectations.
How close will you be to the action?
Do you want to shoot sequences of the action?
Will you be concentrating on the launch or the trap?
Closeups and details or wide enough to see the entire car/rail plus correct composition?
All weather?
Will you be selling images/pictures?
Anything else you can think of? (The more you describe the situation the better we can serve.)
Budget? (Notice I left this for last.)
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
THANK YOU so much for all this info! Really really helpful despite what you think!
See my responses below...
How close will you be to the action? Typically I am within 5-20 feet of my subject, however on occasion longer distances happen.
Do you want to shoot sequences of the action? Yes and no. It honestly depends on the individual I'm shooting. I know the race style of a good percentage of my prospects, so sometimes I know I can get some great sequence shots from certain people while others not so much.
Will you be concentrating on the launch or the trap? Primarily at launch and mid track shots.
Closeups and details or wide enough to see the entire car/rail plus correct composition? All the above. I like variances in my shots and again depending on the individual sometimes I can get some really great candid shots in the midst of a run.
All weather? Yes we race in overcast weather as well as sunshine. As long as its not raining we're racing.
Will you be selling images/pictures? Yes
Anything else you can think of? (The more you describe the situation the better we can serve.) Between you and the other individuals whom have provided feedback thus far, I think you've covered the gamet for me. However, I'm sure I'll have additional questions as time goes on.
Budget? (Notice I left this for last.) Yes, this is always the clincher. I don't have a huge budget, but I also know what I want to accomplish. Which means if I have to save up for exactly the right thing, than I will do that. It is important to me as an individual as well as a business person.
Thank you so much for your additional questions. They have expanded my thought process and I appreciate that.
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EFS 17-55 f/2.8 & 10-22 // Sigma 30mm f/1.4 & 50mm f/1.4
Sigma Bigma OS // Canon 70-200 IS f/2.8
Currently I have a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ18, which has been very successful for me thus far at getting very good action shots during the day. It was a gift and a great starter camera. But at night it is awful and I need to be able to capture day and night shots too. Now admittedly I am still learning photography in's and out's but I am learning and continue to shoot regularly.
From my own experience, years ago, and translated to what I know now, I strongly suggest that the best solution would be 2 cameras:
1) Canon or Nikon camera and lens, specific to documenting the racer when close and at the starting line. Emphasis would be on the lens, needing a fairly wide to normal zoom FOV angle.
2) Canon or Nikon "sports" camera, designed to image the racer after the launch and partway down the track. Both camera and lens need to be selected for speed and ability to track the subject as it accelerates down the track. The lens would additionally be chosen for for fast aperture and medium to long telephoto FOV.
For camera #1, there could be many solutions as it does not involve too much action. I suggest that, among current entries, the Canon 50D and the Nikon D90 might suffice. I would probably recommend a 17-55mm, f2.8 (ish) zoom lens from either manufacturer. An external flash would probably be indicated as well, and a flash with focus assist at that. (Other manufacturers could be considered, but it might be best to stick with a single manufacturer to allow some backup opportunities.)
For camera #2, I would recommend one of the top end cameras as the AF speed is critical considering your proximity to the racer and the speeds at which a funny car or top fuel dragster can accelerate. A 70-200mm, f2.8 zoom is probably the best choice for the distances involved and some cropping should be expected as the subject gains distance from your position. A flash might be beneficial when the subject is still fairly close but becomes less valuable as the subject moves rapidly away and the distance makes flash unusable. A remote radio-slave and flash might be able to pick up the subject at some point down the track, but coordinating the flash would take some doing. An external power supply for the flash might be required for fastest recycling for sequential shooting.
Specific camera models might include the Canon 1D MKIII and Nikon D3. Both frame rates and responsiveness are very good for these models as well as AF sensitivity with AF speed and accuracy the best available. Even the older Canon 1D MKIIN would be a contender.
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Thank you, this is very very helpful. I like the high quality of the Canon 1D MKIII, but may need to work up to that one. But it is certainly on my list of "tax time incentives". But I am listening and will certainly take your recommendations into consideration.
Its also nice to have the input of an individual who understands the speeds of my subject(s). I appreciate everyones input, thank you.
Since some of these subjects can accelerate faster than 32.17 ft/s^2 (the rate of acceleration of gravity) it is the changing "rate" that is so difficult for lesser cameras to process. Even done properly these best of breed cameras will not capture each frame in focus, but they give the best chance for the highest percentage of keepers.
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