Got 3 PWs today!
I need help, please.
My set up:
D300
SB600
SB800
3 PWs
One PW is on my d300, the other two are on SB600 and SB800 respectively. As you know, i'm technically challenged. I need to know what is the camera set up? Do i set my channels within camera or how does it work? Or does PW on the camera triggering the other 2 lights? What channels am i using?
I tried to find any tutorials, went to Strobist, but couldn't find anything.
Thanks for any help.
My set up:
D300
SB600
SB800
3 PWs
One PW is on my d300, the other two are on SB600 and SB800 respectively. As you know, i'm technically challenged. I need to know what is the camera set up? Do i set my channels within camera or how does it work? Or does PW on the camera triggering the other 2 lights? What channels am i using?
I tried to find any tutorials, went to Strobist, but couldn't find anything.
Thanks for any help.
0
Comments
Now on the SB600 press and hold the zoom & - key for aprox. 2 seconds. Then press the + or - key till it says ON and shows a bent looking arrow. Then press the zoom and - key for 2 seconds to get back to the normal settings mode. You should now see a bent arrow, CH, and GROUP on the display. Now press the mode key and then the + or - key to set the channel # you set in the camera. Now press the mode key again and then the + or - key to set the group letter you made the settings for the remote flash in the camera. The SB600 is now ready to work as a remote flash, with the internal flash on the D300 popped up. I'm not positive, but more than likely the other flash may setup the same way as the SB600, but don't quote me on that, since all I have at this time is the SB600. I hope this helps.
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
I figured out that my camera shall stay on manual, but because SB600 doesn't have a way to connect PW, it need to figure out what to get as far as connection goes. I shall go and read some more.
Thanks for replying!
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Marina, as you stated, your camera and your flashes should all be in manual mode.
For a flash without a PC cord connection, like an SB600, or a Canon 430EX, go here - http://www.flashzebra.com/wizardcables/index.shtml or here - http://www.paramountcords.com/mhsf1.asp
These are hot shoe connectors with a PW mini jack to plug into the PW receivers. I have ordered from both vendors, and the are reliable.
Paramount's cords are quite robust, more so than the usual pc cords that come with a flash.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Do you use SB600, pathfinder? Because when i went to B&H and Adorama, some of those were not SB600 compatible.
I'd like to make sure they do indeed work with my flash.
Thanks for responding.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
…and tell me what a "PW" is
…pleeeeease!
- Wil
Sry 2 b so stup bt rly this abv thngy gts a bt ot hnd if 1's nt crfl!
BCNU -
- Wl
rofl
Now I need to check google!!
Virginia
"A photograph is a secret about a secret. The more it tells you, the less you know." Diane Arbus
Email
…any particular reason why you don't want to use CLS?
It's really not too bad once you get a handle on it; quite flexible and very powerful, and well worth the effort to learn it…
- Wil (now out of misery)
Addendum: Just checked a few blogs re: PW vs. CLS and there seems to be a overall consensus that "it depends…". In the original post you said "As you know, i'm technically challenged. "; it seems to me that by using the PW you're adding a layer of complexity (i.e. you still have to learn how to set the camera, and now you have to learn how to set up the PW devices. The CLS is built in, and by learning how to use it you remove one layer of complexity, which in your case (see quote) might be A Good Thing…
…does that make sense?
- Wil
I need longer distance flexibility that PWs offer, i'm moving around so i can't always be "in line" with the flashes to work properly.
Hope that makes sense.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
PWs are not complicated at all, put them on, set the channels and you are done! Working great, took me about 15 min. to figure out.
CSL took me a long time, but i'm now comfortable using it if ever needed.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
My main gear is now all Nikon, and once I got into CLS, I was very impressed by the power and flexibility of the system; a far cry from the days of flash-bulbs and magnesium!
Sounds like you have it sorted
- Wil
The advantage to CLS from what I'm learning is the fact that if your using multiple flashes, and using different EV settings for each, like one for highlights and one for fill, you can change the EV of all, or just one of the flashes directly from the camera, instead of having to go to each flash and making the change.
Just my 2 cents, for what it's worth.
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
Marina, I shoot Canon, as most folks here know, so take my advice after verifying it with some Nikonians.
The Paramount cord I linked above - http://www.paramountcords.com/mhsf1.asp - if I read it correctly, says it is compatible with the SB500 and SB600 speeedlites. The cord is robust as I said, not a flimsy OEM thickness - the cord itself is about 4mm in in diameter - not quite a quarter inch, but built to a higher standard to be used daily.
This one from flash zebra - http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0126/index.shtml - says it is compatible with the SB600. It is priced at $16.50 - cheaper than the Paramount, and has a 4mm cord thickness so it is pretty substantial also. Did you read these links, Marina?
For me the choice of manual flash and PWs, versus eTTL or iTTL, comes down to the interaction I will have with the subjects.
If I am the official photographer, and the subject will sit or stand where I tell them, and face the way I request, manual studio strobes are outstanding. Since the flash to subject distance does not change ( unless I move either the subject or the strobes ) the correct exposure is the same from frame to frame, and I can dial it into my camera, in Manual Mode, and be ready to rock.
If, however, the subjects are candid shots, like with moving children, or a family gathering, where everyone is walking around and pays no attention to me, with the flash to subject distance constantly changing, then iTTL ( or eTTL for Canon ) is vastly more effective. I can set the Camera to Manual mode, let the flash modulate the light output in real time during the instant the shutter is open via iTTL, and I can ignore exposure, and concentrate on framing and focusing for my captures. For moving candids, iTTL or eTTL is fantastic.
The real truth is that the answer is not one or the other, but both can be needed for a full range of flash abilities.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Yes, i read the links, thank you. I was questioning, because on one of the sites i read that zebra cord wasn't working for someone who bought it, and they had to change it. I went ahead and ordered the other one. I also sent them a message to confirm. Thanks for all the info you have provided. Much appreciated!
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Maybe a Nikon shooter who knows from experience will chip in with their knowledge. I do know the hot shoe will work with a Vivitar 285HV or a Canon 550ex.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
Nikon
http://www.time2smile.smugmug.com