Got 3 PWs today!

ShepsMomShepsMom Registered Users Posts: 4,319 Major grins
edited September 15, 2009 in Technique
I need help, please.
My set up:
D300
SB600
SB800
3 PWs

One PW is on my d300, the other two are on SB600 and SB800 respectively. As you know, i'm technically challenged. I need to know what is the camera set up? Do i set my channels within camera or how does it work? Or does PW on the camera triggering the other 2 lights? What channels am i using?

I tried to find any tutorials, went to Strobist, but couldn't find anything.
Thanks for any help.
Marina
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8

Comments

  • Gary752Gary752 Registered Users Posts: 934 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    I'm not familar with PWs, but I can help you get the D300 into commander mode. On getting to the settings for commander mode in the D300, in the menu scroll down to the custom setting menu. That is the pencil looking icon on the left. Then scroll right, then scroll down to "e - Bracketing/Flash" and then scroll right, and scroll down to "e3 - Flash Control for built-in flash", and then scroll right, and then scroll down to the last option, and then scroll right, and then you will be able to make your settings for the internal flash and the remote flash.

    Now on the SB600 press and hold the zoom & - key for aprox. 2 seconds. Then press the + or - key till it says ON and shows a bent looking arrow. Then press the zoom and - key for 2 seconds to get back to the normal settings mode. You should now see a bent arrow, CH, and GROUP on the display. Now press the mode key and then the + or - key to set the channel # you set in the camera. Now press the mode key again and then the + or - key to set the group letter you made the settings for the remote flash in the camera. The SB600 is now ready to work as a remote flash, with the internal flash on the D300 popped up. I'm not positive, but more than likely the other flash may setup the same way as the SB600, but don't quote me on that, since all I have at this time is the SB600. I hope this helps.

    GaryB
    GaryB
    “The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
  • ShepsMomShepsMom Registered Users Posts: 4,319 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    Thanks BroPhoto, my reason for PWs is to get away from CLS :D

    I figured out that my camera shall stay on manual, but because SB600 doesn't have a way to connect PW, it need to figure out what to get as far as connection goes. I shall go and read some more.

    Thanks for replying!
    Marina
    www.intruecolors.com
    Nikon D700 x2/D300
    Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited September 12, 2009
    ShepsMom wrote:
    Thanks BroPhoto, my reason for PWs is to get away from CLS :D

    I figured out that my camera shall stay on manual, but because SB600 doesn't have a way to connect PW, it need to figure out what to get as far as connection goes. I shall go and read some more.

    Thanks for replying!


    Marina, as you stated, your camera and your flashes should all be in manual mode.

    For a flash without a PC cord connection, like an SB600, or a Canon 430EX, go here - http://www.flashzebra.com/wizardcables/index.shtml or here - http://www.paramountcords.com/mhsf1.asp

    These are hot shoe connectors with a PW mini jack to plug into the PW receivers. I have ordered from both vendors, and the are reliable.

    Paramount's cords are quite robust, more so than the usual pc cords that come with a flash.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • ShepsMomShepsMom Registered Users Posts: 4,319 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    I was looking at those adopters, then i was reading from other sites that they don't work? What am i missing?
    Do you use SB600, pathfinder? Because when i went to B&H and Adorama, some of those were not SB600 compatible.
    I'd like to make sure they do indeed work with my flash.

    Thanks for responding.
    Marina
    www.intruecolors.com
    Nikon D700 x2/D300
    Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
  • ShepsMomShepsMom Registered Users Posts: 4,319 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    Also, the price is drastically different from both sites, why is that?? eek7.gif
    Marina
    www.intruecolors.com
    Nikon D700 x2/D300
    Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
  • Wil DavisWil Davis Registered Users Posts: 1,692 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    Er, excuse my ignorance, but please put me out of my misery…


    …and tell me what a "PW" is headscratch.gif


    …pleeeeease!

    - Wil
    "…………………" - Marcel Marceau
  • Wil DavisWil Davis Registered Users Posts: 1,692 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    Ah, a qik lk @ at ggle & fnd tht PW = "Pocket Wizard" (prps).

    Sry 2 b so stup bt rly this abv thngy gts a bt ot hnd if 1's nt crfl! eek7.gif

    BCNU -

    - Wl
    "…………………" - Marcel Marceau
  • FlyingginaFlyinggina Registered Users Posts: 2,639 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    Wil Davis wrote:
    Ah, a qik lk @ at ggle & fnd tht PW = "Pocket Wizard" (prps).

    Sry 2 b so stup bt rly this abv thngy gts a bt ot hnd if 1's nt crfl! eek7.gif

    BCNU -

    - Wl

    rolleyes1.gifroflrolleyes1.gif

    Now I need to check google!!

    Virginia
    _______________________________________________
    "A photograph is a secret about a secret. The more it tells you, the less you know." Diane Arbus

    Email
  • Wil DavisWil Davis Registered Users Posts: 1,692 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    OK, I think I now understand…

    …any particular reason why you don't want to use CLS?

    It's really not too bad once you get a handle on it; quite flexible and very powerful, and well worth the effort to learn it… thumb.gif

    - Wil (now out of misery)

    Addendum: Just checked a few blogs re: PW vs. CLS and there seems to be a overall consensus that "it depends…". In the original post you said "As you know, i'm technically challenged. "; it seems to me that by using the PW you're adding a layer of complexity (i.e. you still have to learn how to set the camera, and now you have to learn how to set up the PW devices. The CLS is built in, and by learning how to use it you remove one layer of complexity, which in your case (see quote) might be A Good Thing…

    …does that make sense?

    - Wil
    "…………………" - Marcel Marceau
  • ShepsMomShepsMom Registered Users Posts: 4,319 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    CSL is great for any non-long distant situations, i personally don't like having my on-camera flash to be open for the system to work, to me it just doesn't look good. Plus, every time you take a shot, you can see pop flash on the picture, even if it doesn't contribute to exposure, i still can see light from it.
    I need longer distance flexibility that PWs offer, i'm moving around so i can't always be "in line" with the flashes to work properly.

    Hope that makes sense.
    Marina
    www.intruecolors.com
    Nikon D700 x2/D300
    Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
  • ShepsMomShepsMom Registered Users Posts: 4,319 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    Wil Davis wrote:
    OK, I think I now understand…

    …any particular reason why you don't want to use CLS?

    It's really not too bad once you get a handle on it; quite flexible and very powerful, and well worth the effort to learn it… thumb.gif

    - Wil (now out of misery)

    Addendum: Just checked a few blogs re: PW vs. CLS and there seems to be a overall consensus that "it depends…". In the original post you said "As you know, i'm technically challenged. "; it seems to me that by using the PW you're adding a layer of complexity (i.e. you still have to learn how to set the camera, and now you have to learn how to set up the PW devices. The CLS is built in, and by learning how to use it you remove one layer of complexity, which in your case (see quote) might be A Good Thing…

    …does that make sense?

    - Wil

    PWs are not complicated at all, put them on, set the channels and you are done! Working great, took me about 15 min. to figure out.
    CSL took me a long time, but i'm now comfortable using it if ever needed.
    Marina
    www.intruecolors.com
    Nikon D700 x2/D300
    Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
  • Wil DavisWil Davis Registered Users Posts: 1,692 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    Excellent! After reading about PWs, I can see certain advantages in their use, especially if you're planning to change or mix gear or have any older gear; so that means I've learned something new today.

    My main gear is now all Nikon, and once I got into CLS, I was very impressed by the power and flexibility of the system; a far cry from the days of flash-bulbs and magnesium! eek7.gif

    Sounds like you have it sorted thumb.gif

    - Wil
    "…………………" - Marcel Marceau
  • Gary752Gary752 Registered Users Posts: 934 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    From what I read, the only disadvantage to CLS is outside on a bright sunny day, or where you want your flash to be further away. Being an Amateur Radio operator, I understand the disadvantage of using an RF trigger in some instances. There are many things that use RF to function, and these things can cause interference with other things. Back in my days of CB radio, I have opened and closed my neighbors garage door, and my voice has come over another neighbors organ while giving lessons. I've had a neighbor, also an Amateur Radio operator, have his voice come out of the speaker of my phone/answering machine while it was not in use. Keeping this in mind, there will be times when your RF triggered flash may not fire, or might fire prematurely, because your RF receiver is simply confused, as it is receiving RF from somewhere else. When this happens you have 2 options. 1. Try different channels until you don't get any interference, or 2. Switch to CLS if your situation permits.

    The advantage to CLS from what I'm learning is the fact that if your using multiple flashes, and using different EV settings for each, like one for highlights and one for fill, you can change the EV of all, or just one of the flashes directly from the camera, instead of having to go to each flash and making the change.

    Just my 2 cents, for what it's worth.

    GaryB
    GaryB
    “The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited September 12, 2009
    ShepsMom wrote:
    I was looking at those adopters, then i was reading from other sites that they don't work? What am i missing?
    Do you use SB600, pathfinder? Because when i went to B&H and Adorama, some of those were not SB600 compatible.
    I'd like to make sure they do indeed work with my flash.

    Thanks for responding.

    Marina, I shoot Canon, as most folks here know, so take my advice after verifying it with some Nikonians.

    The Paramount cord I linked above - http://www.paramountcords.com/mhsf1.asp - if I read it correctly, says it is compatible with the SB500 and SB600 speeedlites. The cord is robust as I said, not a flimsy OEM thickness - the cord itself is about 4mm in in diameter - not quite a quarter inch, but built to a higher standard to be used daily.

    This one from flash zebra - http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0126/index.shtml - says it is compatible with the SB600. It is priced at $16.50 - cheaper than the Paramount, and has a 4mm cord thickness so it is pretty substantial also. Did you read these links, Marina?


    For me the choice of manual flash and PWs, versus eTTL or iTTL, comes down to the interaction I will have with the subjects.

    If I am the official photographer, and the subject will sit or stand where I tell them, and face the way I request, manual studio strobes are outstanding. Since the flash to subject distance does not change ( unless I move either the subject or the strobes ) the correct exposure is the same from frame to frame, and I can dial it into my camera, in Manual Mode, and be ready to rock.

    If, however, the subjects are candid shots, like with moving children, or a family gathering, where everyone is walking around and pays no attention to me, with the flash to subject distance constantly changing, then iTTL ( or eTTL for Canon ) is vastly more effective. I can set the Camera to Manual mode, let the flash modulate the light output in real time during the instant the shutter is open via iTTL, and I can ignore exposure, and concentrate on framing and focusing for my captures. For moving candids, iTTL or eTTL is fantastic.

    The real truth is that the answer is not one or the other, but both can be needed for a full range of flash abilities.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • ShepsMomShepsMom Registered Users Posts: 4,319 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    pathfinder wrote:
    Marina, I shoot Canon, as most folks here know, so take my advice after verifying it with some Nikonians.

    The Paramount cord I linked above - http://www.paramountcords.com/mhsf1.asp - if I read it correctly, says it is compatible with the SB500 and SB600 speeedlites. The cord is robust as I said, not a flimsy OEM thickness - the cord itself is about 4mm in in diameter - not quite a quarter inch, but built to a higher standard to be used daily.

    This one from flash zebra - http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0126/index.shtml - says it is compatible with the SB600. It is priced at $16.50 - cheaper than the Paramount, and has a 4mm cord thickness so it is pretty substantial also. Did you read these links, Marina?


    For me the choice of manual flash and PWs, versus eTTL or iTTL, comes down to the interaction I will have with the subjects.

    If I am the official photographer, and the subject will sit or stand where I tell them, and face the way I request, manual studio strobes are outstanding. Since the flash to subject distance does not change ( unless I move either the subject or the strobes ) the correct exposure is the same from frame to frame, and I can dial it into my camera, in Manual Mode, and be ready to rock.

    If, however, the subjects are candid shots, like with moving children, or a family gathering, where everyone is walking around and pays no attention to me, with the flash to subject distance constantly changing, then iTTL ( or eTTL for Canon ) is vastly more effective. I can set the Camera to Manual mode, let the flash modulate the light output in real time during the instant the shutter is open via iTTL, and I can ignore exposure, and concentrate on framing and focusing for my captures. For moving candids, iTTL or eTTL is fantastic.

    The real truth is that the answer is not one or the other, but both can be needed for a full range of flash abilities.

    Yes, i read the links, thank you. I was questioning, because on one of the sites i read that zebra cord wasn't working for someone who bought it, and they had to change it. I went ahead and ordered the other one. I also sent them a message to confirm. Thanks for all the info you have provided. Much appreciated!
    Marina
    www.intruecolors.com
    Nikon D700 x2/D300
    Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited September 12, 2009
    Marina, I have no personal experience with the SB60. I do know that almost all flashes can be triggered by the center post only style hot shoe if the flash is set to Manual Mode, and the website did suggest that it would work with the SB600.

    Maybe a Nikon shooter who knows from experience will chip in with their knowledge. I do know the hot shoe will work with a Vivitar 285HV or a Canon 550ex.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • ShepsMomShepsMom Registered Users Posts: 4,319 Major grins
    edited September 12, 2009
    Well, we will find out soon enough! I will definitely let you know, not that you might be interested, but in case anyone might ask. thumb.gif
    Marina
    www.intruecolors.com
    Nikon D700 x2/D300
    Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
  • time2smiletime2smile Registered Users Posts: 835 Major grins
    edited September 15, 2009
    I just pick up from evilbay the rf602's work great with my sb600 in manual only. Check into PW before, and with the shoe mount adapt it should work fine.
    Ted....
    It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
    Nikon
    http://www.time2smile.smugmug.com
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