flash help, please

Elaine · October 8, 2009

I'm to shoot a family reunion in a church this weekend. Other than one large group shot, I just get to wander and capture people. Sounds like fun. Except I know I'll need to use flash, and this is giving me anxiety. I don't believe the room has any windows, and I don't know what color the walls/ceiling are or how high the ceiling is or how big the room is.

I do have an STE2, a 580EXII, a lightstand and an umbrella. As I see it, my options are:
1) shoot with flash on the camera (LS too?) and try to bounce
2) shoot with flash on the lightstand and carry it around with me (light on a stick or just held in my hand - sounds hard to do).
3) shoot with flash set up in the room somewhere and occasionally move it to get different lighting angles

I am really struggling with just understanding the best way to use the flash, no matter which option I end up with. (Please share if there are other options.) I don't want shots that look like they were taken in a cave, so don't I have to slow my shutter down to allow for more ambient? Then how do I avoid motion blur, either from me or my subjects? I feel like I'm missing some critical piece of information here. Something is not getting through this thick skull of mine. Help?!

angevin1 · October 8, 2009

Elaine wrote:

I'm to shoot a family reunion in a church this weekend. Other than one large group shot, I just get to wander and capture people. Sounds like fun. Except I know I'll need to use flash, and this is giving me anxiety. I don't believe the room has any windows, and I don't know what color the walls/ceiling are or how high the ceiling is or how big the room is.

I do have an STE2, a 580EXII, a lightstand and an umbrella. As I see it, my options are:
1) shoot with flash on the camera (LS too?) and try to bounce
2) shoot with flash on the lightstand and carry it around with me (light on a stick or just held in my hand - sounds hard to do).
3) shoot with flash set up in the room somewhere and occasionally move it to get different lighting angles

I am really struggling with just understanding the best way to use the flash, no matter which option I end up with. (Please share if there are other options.) I don't want shots that look like they were taken in a cave, so don't I have to slow my shutter down to allow for more ambient? Then how do I avoid motion blur, either from me or my subjects? I feel like I'm missing some critical piece of information here. Something is not getting through this thick skull of mine. Help?!

Elaine, I'm certain others will chime in with color/WB and more...but at least to begin/

1. Group SHot: Yes, use your off-cam flash mounted on a light-stand to get that done. Could be even you could take them outside if its day and not too cold? Otherwise..how big is the group? 20? 50? 250? Makes a huge difference...and instead of worrying over it, you can easily recruit their nurturing instincts to help you figure out.." where is the best place to shoot all of you together?" not that you have to appear un-pro, but..if its a really large group, more like thinking out loud.

What ISO is that cam good for? Unless its 6400, I'd not get overdone on the ambient, because like you said, you're then going to be draggin the Shutter...so you may just want to use your LS and bounce or glow.

I do like the thought of using your flash on your lightstand, but then just leaving it in one place and having people know you'll take their photo together in that one spot...or two.

But other than that, you can actually use your flash to make it work kinda like a spot and give a bit more drama to the situaiton...I mean, we see photos of rooms all lit up all the time, and they look so boring, N'es pas? So, practice a little perhaps, chimp some too.

Art Scott · October 8, 2009

Personally, if I was going into an unknown venue to shoot....I would have my flash set up on a flash bracket attached to cam and that would be it.....of course I would use my Lumiquest softbox for a diffuser on all butthe group shot and I would just go bare flash and under expose 1/2 to 1 stop.....chimping to get it right or more to my style....Pull out the sekonic meter and meter the group shot to make sure I have even lighting from side to side and back to front.....with only 1 flash the back to front will be hard to get...........if you could borrow/rent a studio strobe or 2 for the group shot that would be even better

angevin1 · October 8, 2009

Art Scott wrote:

Personally, if I was going into an unknown venue to shoot....I would have my flash set up on a flash bracket attached to cam and that would be it.....of course I would use my Lumiquest softbox for a diffuser on all butthe group shot and I would just go bare flash and under expose 1/2 to 1 stop.....chimping to get it right or more to my style....Pull out the sekonic meter and meter the group shot to make sure I have even lighting from side to side and back to front.....with only 1 flash the back to front will be hard to get...........if you could borrow/rent a studio strobe or 2 for the group shot that would be even better

Thats seems extreme for one shot...which is why I didn't suggest it..though if you're gonna rent one...~

Elaine · October 8, 2009

I think it will be a relatively small group...21 or so. I won't be renting anything. My camera is the Canon 40D with high ISO of 3200.
So, are you saying I should just plan to use a high ISO with as wide an aperture as I dare for the move-around-the-room shots? I plan to bring my 17-55 2.8 IS, 50 1.4 and 85 1.8. I am comfortable with the zoom at 2.8, and I would rather not go wider than 2.8 on the primes as well. I'm just paranoid about having fuzzy shots. It seems like I've seen shots where there is movement happening (such as wedding dances), but the subjects remain crisp with the flash. How does that work?
We will try for the group shot to be outside. We'll be there from 11 am to ?, and the weather should be 64 and partly cloudy. I'm guessing with the group shot that I wouldn't need the umbrella. And hopefully I can shoot at f/8 or so.
Thanks for the help!

angevin1 · October 8, 2009

Elaine wrote:

I think it will be a relatively small group...21 or so. I won't be renting anything. My camera is the Canon 40D with high ISO of 3200.
So, are you saying I should just plan to use a high ISO with as wide an aperture as I dare for the move-around-the-room shots? I plan to bring my 17-55 2.8 IS, 50 1.4 and 85 1.8. I am comfortable with the zoom at 2.8, and I would rather not go wider than 2.8 on the primes as well. I'm just paranoid about having fuzzy shots. It seems like I've seen shots where there is movement happening (such as wedding dances), but the subjects remain crisp with the flash. How does that work?
We will try for the group shot to be outside. We'll be there from 11 am to ?, and the weather should be 64 and partly cloudy. I'm guessing with the group shot that I wouldn't need the umbrella. And hopefully I can shoot at f/8 or so.
Thanks for the help!

Ahh partly cloudy..may not need a flash at all..

1. try to see if you can find a spot where the light bounces off some object and reflects to them...like the side of another structure. then you can just meter....or just undershade a bit...but watch that DOF..I still like to keep to the f8-f9 range just to be certain to get them all in focus...could be that you spot an area that'll work, but will have to wait a few hours for it to be just right..don't force it unless they force you.

How that works (freezing in dances with flash), is not metering for the ambient as much and letting your flash do some work. though if you could go very high, you could do both with a high enough shutter speed, but...I said earlier to me that many times seems boring...I speak from personal experience here.

I know canon has a good rep for high ISO, but you might not want to push it if your photos at high ISO are not crisp.

I'd give it a shot at say as low an ISO as you can stand ( say 800 for starters and flash set to eTTL, and make the flash push out to cover your area ( bouncing off walls is as good or even better sometimes), once again going to from f 2.8 to f4 area. Chimp and see how increasing the ISO helps..or does raising the flash bias help get the effect you prefer. Keeping shutter speeds in the 100 and up range....higher more freeze and less ambient, so indeed you may actually go the other way, less ISO and less bias.

You may end up finding that it isn't all that big of a challenge..if it is well lit, it could actually be tasky to create some drama in the photos.

I'll bet this'll all work well for you, cause your on top of things.

TGAllen · October 8, 2009

Elaine wrote:

It seems like I've seen shots where there is movement happening (such as wedding dances), but the subjects remain crisp with the flash. How does that work?

That is done by setting the flash to rear curtain, or 2nd curtain sync. You set your shutter speed to about 1/8 or 1/10 (depending on how much blur you want). The Flash will go off just before the rear curtain closes, therefore freezing the faces (or whatever). It is a great way to shoot dancing imho.

Elaine · October 8, 2009

TGAllen wrote:

That is done by setting the flash to rear curtain, or 2nd curtain sync. You set your shutter speed to about 1/8 or 1/10 (depending on how much blur you want). The Flash will go off just before the rear curtain closes, therefore freezing the faces (or whatever). It is a great way to shoot dancing imho.

I've tried using 2nd curtain, as I thought that was the trick, but I still ended up with a messy photo. Maybe I didn't allow my shutter to be slow enough?

Elaine · October 8, 2009

angevin1 wrote:

Ahh partly cloudy..may not need a flash at all..

1. try to see if you can find a spot where the light bounces off some object and reflects to them...like the side of another structure. then you can just meter....or just undershade a bit...but watch that DOF..I still like to keep to the f8-f9 range just to be certain to get them all in focus...could be that you spot an area that'll work, but will have to wait a few hours for it to be just right..don't force it unless they force you.

How that works (freezing in dances with flash), is not metering for the ambient as much and letting your flash do some work. though if you could go very high, you could do both with a high enough shutter speed, but...I said earlier to me that many times seems boring...I speak from personal experience here.

I know canon has a good rep for high ISO, but you might not want to push it if your photos at high ISO are not crisp.

I'd give it a shot at say as low an ISO as you can stand ( say 800 for starters and flash set to eTTL, and make the flash push out to cover your area ( bouncing off walls is as good or even better sometimes), once again going to from f 2.8 to f4 area. Chimp and see how increasing the ISO helps..or does raising the flash bias help get the effect you prefer. Keeping shutter speeds in the 100 and up range....higher more freeze and less ambient, so indeed you may actually go the other way, less ISO and less bias.

You may end up finding that it isn't all that big of a challenge..if it is well lit, it could actually be tasky to create some drama in the photos.

I'll bet this'll all work well for you, cause your on top of things.

Thanks, Tom. What does it mean when you say, "make the flash push out to cover your area"? These are the things about flash I don't get. When using ETTL, does it matter what the flash zoom setting is? Is that even what you were referring to?

angevin1 · October 8, 2009

Elaine wrote:

Thanks, Tom. What does it mean when you say, "make the flash push out to cover your area"? These are the things about flash I don't get. When using ETTL, does it matter what the flash zoom setting is? Is that even what you were referring to?

Oh, sorry Elaine, I meant to say, Make it work harder. When I meter for ambient and then use fill, the flash barely has to work to send a signal back to the camera that tom was satisfied. But when I run my shutter speed up( darkening ambient), then it has to work harder( more flash power use) to send the same argument. Obviously (?) you can continue to up the shutter until it is dark~

I get the second curtain Sync, just haven't had enough practical use of it to understand it..I think I'll putz with that this weekend..Good trick to learn.

rwells · October 8, 2009

Elaine,

I'll suggest you take the time before your shoot to go through Neil van Niekerk's website, www.planetneil.com. He is a master at this very thing and his articles are written in a way as to be very easily digested. He also has a new book out that is excellent, but you probably won't have time to get and read that before your shoot.

angevin1 · October 8, 2009

rwells wrote:

Elaine,

I'll suggest you take the time before your shoot to go through Neil van Niekerk's website, www.planetneil.com. He is a master at this very thing and his articles are written in a way as to be very easily digested. He also has a new book out that is excellent, but you probably won't have time to get and read that before your shoot.

I agree with Randy..Neils site and explanations took me to ease of flash use in Manual mode quick, quick!

craig_d · October 8, 2009

Elaine wrote:

My camera is the Canon 40D with high ISO of 3200.

It may go to 3200, but does it actually look good at 3200? I find even the 5D Mark II to be marginal, and the 50D unacceptable, at 3200. But maybe my idea of acceptable noise levels is more stringent than most people's. I haven't used a 40D, though.

Elaine · October 8, 2009

craig_d wrote:

It may go to 3200, but does it actually look good at 3200? I find even the 5D Mark II to be marginal, and the 50D unacceptable, at 3200. But maybe my idea of acceptable noise levels is more stringent than most people's. I haven't used a 40D, though.

Nah, I certainly don't want to use 3200. I'd rather stay at 800 or lower, but 1600 I do find to be usable. But, as I've learned again and again, I'd rather have a grainy photo than a blurry one due to slow shutter speed.

Elaine · October 8, 2009

rwells wrote:

Elaine,

I'll suggest you take the time before your shoot to go through Neil van Niekerk's website, www.planetneil.com. He is a master at this very thing and his articles are written in a way as to be very easily digested. He also has a new book out that is excellent, but you probably won't have time to get and read that before your shoot.

Thanks, Randy. I've actually spent a lot of time at his site and prefer it to the strobist, actually. While I was asking these questions, I was looking through more of his stuff, and things were beginning to clear up. I find his stuff very readable and understandable, but as I haven't had much opportunity to put it into practice, I find myself panicking when I realize I will have to! I will certainly spend more time there. Thanks, again.

Swartzy · October 9, 2009

Elaine...it's much simpler than you think. Dependent on the color of the ambient lighting (most likely tungsten) do this:

Gel your flash with a 1/2 CTO. Put your flash on your camera. Bounce your flash upward and a bit to the side catching adjacent walls and ceiling. Now, put your camera in manual. Set the shutter speed at 100th to 125th. Now, dial your ISO to where your camera just meters (on the left in the viewfinder)...that will put you 2 stops under ambient. Yes, you can be 3 or even 4 stops under but your flash has to work that much harder. So 2-3 stops under will work great. Ride your flash exposure compensation from 0 to + 1/3 to + 2/3 dependent on what your histogram is reading. If you are trying to shoot someone farther away that's when you will amp up the flash exposure comp. Always expose to the right and no blinkies. You'll most likely be somewhere between ISO 800 to 1250. In really dark venues I'll jack it up to 1600 with no worries.....because the shots are exposed properly.

Here is an example (on purpose) of ISO 3200 using bounced flash: Don't let anyone tell you different...ETTL is a wonderful thing. ON camera is as well for the events.

One more...ISO 500 1/100th bounced

divamum · October 9, 2009

Swartzy -

The 2nd shot you posted is more the look I "expect" from bouncing the flash, but the first seems like much more directional lighting. Do you remember where exactly you had the flash? Obviously it was coming from the right - and I guess because the walls look to be white you got a very clean "giant softbox" effec - but did you modify the flash in any other way with any kind of flag or other way of directing it? It's stunning - the modelling shadows on her face are pretty much perfect for my taste.

Later.......
ETA: I meant from HER right, not camera right! Duh... Also ETA that I just tried this and your explanation of how to meter for balancing ambient plus flash ROCKS

TGAllen · October 9, 2009

Elaine wrote:

I've tried using 2nd curtain, as I thought that was the trick, but I still ended up with a messy photo. Maybe I didn't allow my shutter to be slow enough?

That could be the issue. It seems to do well on some shots and blah on others. Experiment with 1/5 to 1/10 of a second.

Elaine · October 9, 2009

Swartzy! Thank you for the great examples and details. And...me? Make something difficult? Never!

As soon as I read this post last night, I marched upstairs to our dark living room and snapped a few of my hubby sitting on the couch. It's the starting out at 2 stops below ambient that just wasn't clicking for me yet. (I'm so used to slightly overexposing with natural light shots that underexposing by that much feels wrong.) But sure enough, I bounced off the ceiling/wall up and behind me at two stops below ambient and shot at 1/100, f/2, ISO 1250. And for that case, my flash exposure compensation was at - 1 1/3. Does that mean I'm not using enough of my flash? (That question doesn't sound right.) Should I underexpose even more and push the FEC up to +1/3 as you said? Won't that look more flashy and cave-like and make my flash work harder? My histo looked pretty good...no blinkies on either end, although it could have gone to the right a tad more.

What about diffusers? Should I throw on the Lightsphere? If so, should I keep the top cap off of it when bouncing?

If I have fluorescent lighting, I should gel with green, right?

Neil of Planet Neil seems to like using a black foamie thing as a flag in order to direct his bounce better. Has anyone tried that?

Swartzy · October 9, 2009

Elaine...yes...underexposing your flash in this case is not correct. The whole idea here is using your ETTL flash to compensate for the underexposure of ambient. If you are underexposing ambient AND underexposing flash, you'll get.....underexposed shots. Let your flash do the work. THis is not outdoor shooting in AV mode. This isn't a matter of metering correct exposure then using flash for fill. It's the reverse. It's underexposing by 2 stops of ambient and the flash is compensating the rest. This way you'll capture the lights and atmosphere of the room...not anything like in a cave and still expose your subjects properly.

Believe it or not....you'll be fine at 1/125th, ISO 400, f/5.6 in any normal lit living room. Go into your kitchen. Make sure your lights are on. Aim at the toaster. Position your composition in portrait mode (your flash is now on your left). Aim the flash up towards the ceiling. Focus and shoot. Gee, what do you see? An amazingly balanced lighting exposure...magic, huh?

So in darker venues other than your kitchen..your ISO is upped. If you are shooting farther away from your subject then sure, up your flash exposure compensation by say 2/3rds....so the light gets there. Don't point it at them.

Yes, I have foamies...many times I don't mess with them. I sometimes use my hand to bounce the light...look at the subject, look where you think the light would best suit the subject, reverse your camera (flip it the other way and flip your flash). Many times even though I have a grip, I'll flip my camera in portrait orientation the other way as I want the light entering in from the right rather than left.

After you do this enough times, it will be second nature. All we hear about these days is off camera lighting.....nonsense...events for most cases don't afford that opportunity let alone having 3 assistance's holding flashes with pocket wizards so we "can get the shot". We are on the move..all the time...we have to "get the shots ourselves". What...are we supposed to say.."Hey everyone, stop doing what you're doing, I need to set up the mini softbox, stand and strobe so I can get the most awesome shot". I'm a strobist and participate with the groups but quite honestly....most of them don't get it. It's not about playing around with the little flashes...it's about GETTING THE SHOT!

Elaine · October 9, 2009

Swartzy wrote:

Elaine...yes...underexposing your flash in this case is not correct. The whole idea here is using your ETTL flash to compensate for the underexposure of ambient. If you are underexposing ambient AND underexposing flash, you'll get.....underexposed shots. Let your flash do the work. THis is not outdoor shooting in AV mode. This isn't a matter of metering correct exposure then using flash for fill. It's the reverse. It's underexposing by 2 stops of ambient and the flash is compensating the rest. This way you'll capture the lights and atmosphere of the room...not anything like in a cave and still expose your subjects properly.

Believe it or not....you'll be fine at 1/125th, ISO 400, f/5.6 in any normal lit living room. Go into your kitchen. Make sure your lights are on. Aim at the toaster. Position your composition in portrait mode (your flash is now on your left). Aim the flash up towards the ceiling. Focus and shoot. Gee, what do you see? An amazingly balanced lighting exposure...magic, huh?

So in darker venues other than your kitchen..your ISO is upped. If you are shooting farther away from your subject then sure, up your flash exposure compensation by say 2/3rds....so the light gets there. Don't point it at them.

Yes, I have foamies...many times I don't mess with them. I sometimes use my hand to bounce the light...look at the subject, look where you think the light would best suit the subject, reverse your camera (flip it the other way and flip your flash). Many times even though I have a grip, I'll flip my camera in portrait orientation the other way as I want the light entering in from the right rather than left.

After you do this enough times, it will be second nature. All we hear about these days is off camera lighting.....nonsense...events for most cases don't afford that opportunity let alone having 3 assistance's holding flashes with pocket wizards so we "can get the shot". We are on the move..all the time...we have to "get the shots ourselves". What...are we supposed to say.."Hey everyone, stop doing what you're doing, I need to set up the mini softbox, stand and strobe so I can get the most awesome shot". I'm a strobist and participate with the groups but quite honestly....most of them don't get it. It's not about playing around with the little flashes...it's about GETTING THE SHOT!

Yay, Swartzy! So...I just went and shot my toaster.

And what do you know...magic! I also went back to my (very) dark living room and shot my crazy boys.
Just for fun...only a slight WB tweak and tiny crop...
f/4, 1/125, ISO 800, +2/3 FEC, bounced up and behind me

I'm pretty sure I was more like 4 stops under ambient here. So, at + FEC, am I making the flash work way too hard? Is this just a bad thing because it will eat the batteries faster?

Thank you for walking me through this. I'm s.l.o.w.e.r. than molasses.

I'm so hoping that I will have some good bouncing surfaces at my shoot tomorrow. But thanks to this thread and reading more at Planet Neil today, I'm feeling better about it.

divamum · October 9, 2009

I now have a perfectly-lit toaster.

(seriously, I do. I just went and tried this and am thrilled to have a perfectly-exposed shot. Magic! Not that I doubted YOU Swartzy, but my own ability to reproduce something based on ::gulp:: numbers.....

)

I have just made a sticker for myself with those settings and stuck it on my flash case so I can use them when I need them. Perfetto!

I present to you... the SOOC Swartzy Toaster Shot! (complete with crumbs. But at least it's not a crummy shot

)

Elaine · October 9, 2009

divamum wrote:

I now have a perfectly-lit toaster. (seriously, I do. I just went and tried this and am thrilled to have a perfectly-exposed shot. Magic! Not that I doubted YOU Swartzy, but my own ability to reproduce something based on ::gulp:: numbers..... )

I have just made a sticker for myself with those settings and stuck it on my flash case so I can use them when I need them. Perfetto!

I present to you... the SOOC Swartzy Toaster Shot! (complete with crumbs. But at least it's not a crummy shot )

Heehee...glad I'm not the only one.

And now I'm making myself a sticky note, too. For the moments of panic that are sure to come for me.

divamum · October 9, 2009

Elaine wrote:

Heehee...glad I'm not the only one.
And now I'm making myself a sticky note, too. For the moments of panic that are sure to come for me.

See, here's the thing: I get the PRINCIPLE of all the settings I've ever read; I understand how these things interact and are supposed to act and how the light is supposed to behave and be manipulable. What I struggle with is remembering the actual numbers for various situations - they just go RIGHT out of my head when I'm talking to people and composing etc etc so I blank, and resort to varying forms of automated exposure... (which sometimes work, and sometimes don't, and leave me frustrated wondering how to get it consistent). It's like the number-theories use different parts of my brain and I can't get them to coexist with all the other stuff (now I know how my poor students feel when I'm walking them through singing in Italian/German/French for the first time!)

Swartzy, the reason this makes sense is you've given a specific to use - in normal ambient light use those actual settings (rather than a chain of "if" clauses). ANd THAT is something I can use even when I'm distracted by all the other stuff. You're awesome!

Elaine · October 10, 2009

divamum wrote:

See, here's the thing: I get the PRINCIPLE of all the settings I've ever read; I understand how these things interact and are supposed to act and how the light is supposed to behave and be manipulable. What I struggle with is remembering the actual numbers for various situations - they just go RIGHT out of my head when I'm talking to people and composing etc etc so I blank, and resort to varying forms of automated exposure... (which sometimes work, and sometimes don't, and leave me frustrated wondering how to get it consistent). It's like the number-theories use different parts of my brain and I can't get them to coexist with all the other stuff (now I know how my poor students feel when I'm walking them through singing in Italian/German/French for the first time!)

Swartzy, the reason this makes sense is you've given a specific to use - in normal ambient light use those actual settings (rather than a chain of "if" clauses). ANd THAT is something I can use even when I'm distracted by all the other stuff. You're awesome!

I can relate to that! I'll read a bunch of great stuff on various sites and be nodding my head and thinking, "Uh-huh, I get that. I can see how that works. Sure. Oh, I can do that!" And then I get into the situation and...wham-o...it's gone. That's where the practice comes in. I just don't shoot with flash often enough to be building any sort of foundation. Maybe I need to give myself a month-long assignment of shooting with flash every day. Anyway, that's why I trotted right upstairs and did what Swartzy said!

PS - I like your backsplash!

Swartzy · October 10, 2009

WhoooHooo! I've always wanted a toaster like that..can I print it huh huh???

:D:D There ya go ladies...see, it's not rocket science. Just remember, in darker areas with higher ceilings you want to up the ISO..and don't be afraid of 1600...the reason they get noisy is because of underexposure. When there aren't really ceilings or walls per se, then pull out a foamy and rubber band it around the flash (back side), aiming the flash up...the light will travel up and forward but guess what..........NO RED EYE. I've had second shooters think they grasp flash and have had to throw more shots away because of red eye and underexposure.

And yes, you may not get 2 stops under...heck sometimes I'm 5 under BUT....I jack up the ISO so my flash doesn't have to work so hard. Some weddings (I do use the power pack for the 580 EXII) the batteries last all day long...no switching.

divamum · October 10, 2009

Elaine wrote:

PS - I like your backsplash!

OT response....
Backsplash was from Lowes, ~2 years ago. I think it's actually floor tile, but I liked it and bought it on an impulse... and a good thing because they only had it for about a month before it sold out and was GONE. It was the only part of my kitchen that wasn't purchased at a steep discount on Craigslist (or other 2ndhand/free sources) but because I didn't need very much (small space) I got the one I REALLY wanted even though it was a bit spendy. And I LOVE it. Then again, my Craigslist kitchen (low budget notwithstanding) tiurned out awesome all round... I can't complain!!

/OT kitchen talk

And now back to your regularly scheduled flash-technique programming...

Netter · October 13, 2009

I am just getting my flash this week, so am very excited to see this discussion. I will have to come back to later this week to see if I can figure the flash out!

Swartzy · October 14, 2009

Thought I'd share some results so you all can get an idea what types of light bouncing in ETTL will afford. Most of these are around ISO 500, 1/125th and flash exposure is typically set at 0 when in closer to subjects.

flash help, please

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