Nice scene...but I think the trees and reflection on the left need to be brighter and sharper.
Can't make them sharper given the number of exposures with the wind blowing, but here is one that is a tad brighter. Thanks, as always, for your coaching Ric:
Can't make them sharper given the number of exposures with the wind blowing,
Yes you can!
Use just one (the right one) exposure for just the trees...via a feathered mask as a layer over a duplicate copy of the HDR images. Use a soft bush and gently erase the hdr copy (soft transition) with the original hdr image(background) turned off (not visible). Delete the BG layer when done and flatten the image. This is off the top of my head...so there may be other better ways.
Use just one (the right one) exposure for just the trees...via a feathered mask as a layer over a duplicate copy of the HDR images. Use a soft bush and gently erase the hdr copy (soft transition) with the original hdr image(background) turned off (not visible). Delete the BG layer when done and flatten the image. This is off the top of my head...so there may be other better ways.
I would do all that if I used PS, but I do not. Some day I will learn how to do layers and masks with PS. Thanks Ric.
Yup, that last one is just right, Dan. So are you saying that one's a single image and not an HDR at all? That's happened to me quite a bit. Process the shot both ways, and end up using the non-HDR version. Often times I can do better just using the RAW converter controls to expand the range and contrast.
For the first one, did you use the reduce-ghosting-due-to-motion (or whatever it's called) option set to "high"? I've found it generally does a pretty good job, but maybe you tried that.
Anyway, this is a great shot and I think you got it dialed in now.
Dan the one-image exposure really is fantastic. I find that it's generally the best way to go anyway, rather than dealing with the foibles of HDR, but of course to each their own. Great job!
I think I like the single exposure version best. With multiple exposure HDR and wind things become more difficult. As stated previously, then you need to start layering with the 0EV exposure and masking.
I have to go with the one exposure shot too, much better than the others in my opinion.
I started to move away from HDR when I upgraded my camera to a 5D MII (I would just use grads and try to get it right in camera, Photomatix just generated too much noise).
Now if I have a scene with a high contrast ratio/dynamic range I'll blend it manually in Photoshop rather than let Photomatix try and divine what I want it to do (I know you don't have PS - but I also know that you're going to get it eventually).
I still use grads, I think a 2-stop soft is very useful, 3-stop is useful only in limited "straight horizon" circumstances. And even Singh-Ray GND filters have a slight magenta cast to them (my original set didn't, the latest set I bought a few months ago do unfortunately).
This is kind of a rambling response...
My main point is I usually stick with a single exposure if at all possible. If not, then I'll take another exposure and blend the two manually in Photoshop. It's extremely rare when I need more than two exposures for this.
The other cool thing is you can apply the manual blend technique to other situations, for example, in Rainier I would take a foreground shot with the flowers at high ISO so they wouldn't move as much, then take a shot at a lower ISO for the mountain in the background. Another case is keeping the same composition and blending exposures taken 15 minutes or longer apart (for example, cityscapes, one exposure for the sky colors, another later for the city lights, or one exposure for the alpen glow on the mountains, and another for the sky later).
Anyway, keep playing around, that's all I do. I haven't settled on a workflow that I've kept for more than a few months, and possibly never will
I have to go with the one exposure shot too, much better than the others in my opinion.
I started to move away from HDR when I upgraded my camera to a 5D MII (I would just use grads and try to get it right in camera, Photomatix just generated too much noise).
Now if I have a scene with a high contrast ratio/dynamic range I'll blend it manually in Photoshop rather than let Photomatix try and divine what I want it to do (I know you don't have PS - but I also know that you're going to get it eventually).
I still use grads, I think a 2-stop soft is very useful, 3-stop is useful only in limited "straight horizon" circumstances. And even Singh-Ray GND filters have a slight magenta cast to them (my original set didn't, the latest set I bought a few months ago do unfortunately).
This is kind of a rambling response...
My main point is I usually stick with a single exposure if at all possible. If not, then I'll take another exposure and blend the two manually in Photoshop. It's extremely rare when I need more than two exposures for this.
The other cool thing is you can apply the manual blend technique to other situations, for example, in Rainier I would take a foreground shot with the flowers at high ISO so they wouldn't move as much, then take a shot at a lower ISO for the mountain in the background. Another case is keeping the same composition and blending exposures taken 15 minutes or longer apart (for example, cityscapes, one exposure for the sky colors, another later for the city lights, or one exposure for the alpen glow on the mountains, and another for the sky later).
Anyway, keep playing around, that's all I do. I haven't settled on a workflow that I've kept for more than a few months, and possibly never will
Thanks Ron. I have CS3. I just haven't bothered to learn how to blend, mask, etc. I bought a book on layering and masks, but the truth is I want someone to give me 1-1 teaching so I can learn it relatively quickly. Thanks for taking the time to coach.
I have a 3 stop singh ray soft grad that I hand held in Acadia. I also have a 2 stop colkin that is too small to hand hold. I was thinking of getting a 4 or 5 stop hard grad Bottom line is I should buy CS4 and learn it. Thanks again
Thanks Ron. I have CS3. I just haven't bothered to learn how to blend, mask, etc. I bought a book on layering and masks, but the truth is I want someone to give me 1-1 teaching so I can learn it relatively quickly. Thanks for taking the time to coach.
In addition to all the cool info in that tute, Marc showed the "Magic Selection Tool" in one of the C&C sessions. Using this will make the selection process sooooo much easier!
Here is a one exposure version which I suspect is the best. What do you think?
As you can determine by others comments, this is easily more appealing.
Sometimes, I know what I'm talking about.D
I suggest forgeting about HDR...you really don't need it anymore as evidenced by your Arcadia shots...learn PS which is not all that difficult and then see if you need HDR anymore. You can do exposure blends that look realistic in PS. Since you spent all that money on camera upgrades...get CS4 and complete your experience. I guarantee you will be glad you did.
I have to agree with the other comments, I like the original in this case. "less is more" Blending and HDR has it's place, but often it gets a little heavy handed. I love the image and great job! It was a pleasure shooting with you.
As you can determine by others comments, this is easily more appealing.
Sometimes, I know what I'm talking about.D
I suggest forgeting about HDR...you really don't need it anymore as evidenced by your Arcadia shots...learn PS which is not all that difficult and then see if you need HDR anymore. You can do exposure blends that look realistic in PS. Since you spent all that money on camera upgrades...get CS4 and complete your experience. I guarantee you will be glad you did.
I started learning exposure blending in CS3 today. I will learn it. Thanks Ric.
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Can't make them sharper given the number of exposures with the wind blowing, but here is one that is a tad brighter. Thanks, as always, for your coaching Ric:
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Yes you can!
Use just one (the right one) exposure for just the trees...via a feathered mask as a layer over a duplicate copy of the HDR images. Use a soft bush and gently erase the hdr copy (soft transition) with the original hdr image(background) turned off (not visible). Delete the BG layer when done and flatten the image. This is off the top of my head...so there may be other better ways.
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Thanks mac
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For the first one, did you use the reduce-ghosting-due-to-motion (or whatever it's called) option set to "high"? I've found it generally does a pretty good job, but maybe you tried that.
Anyway, this is a great shot and I think you got it dialed in now.
-joel
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I think I like the single exposure version best. With multiple exposure HDR and wind things become more difficult. As stated previously, then you need to start layering with the 0EV exposure and masking.
Nice shot...
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I also agree that the single exposure beats the HDR. Did you use a mask to bring out the darker areas?
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I started to move away from HDR when I upgraded my camera to a 5D MII (I would just use grads and try to get it right in camera, Photomatix just generated too much noise).
Now if I have a scene with a high contrast ratio/dynamic range I'll blend it manually in Photoshop rather than let Photomatix try and divine what I want it to do (I know you don't have PS - but I also know that you're going to get it eventually).
I still use grads, I think a 2-stop soft is very useful, 3-stop is useful only in limited "straight horizon" circumstances. And even Singh-Ray GND filters have a slight magenta cast to them (my original set didn't, the latest set I bought a few months ago do unfortunately).
This is kind of a rambling response...
My main point is I usually stick with a single exposure if at all possible. If not, then I'll take another exposure and blend the two manually in Photoshop. It's extremely rare when I need more than two exposures for this.
The other cool thing is you can apply the manual blend technique to other situations, for example, in Rainier I would take a foreground shot with the flowers at high ISO so they wouldn't move as much, then take a shot at a lower ISO for the mountain in the background. Another case is keeping the same composition and blending exposures taken 15 minutes or longer apart (for example, cityscapes, one exposure for the sky colors, another later for the city lights, or one exposure for the alpen glow on the mountains, and another for the sky later).
Anyway, keep playing around, that's all I do. I haven't settled on a workflow that I've kept for more than a few months, and possibly never will
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Thanks Ron. I have CS3. I just haven't bothered to learn how to blend, mask, etc. I bought a book on layering and masks, but the truth is I want someone to give me 1-1 teaching so I can learn it relatively quickly. Thanks for taking the time to coach.
I have a 3 stop singh ray soft grad that I hand held in Acadia. I also have a 2 stop colkin that is too small to hand hold. I was thinking of getting a 4 or 5 stop hard grad Bottom line is I should buy CS4 and learn it. Thanks again
http://danielplumer.com/
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A truly gorgeous image Dan.
g
Dan, this is just about what I do, and I don't think it gets much simpler than that!
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
COOL! I've got to try that. Thanks,
Ceci
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Hugs Schmoo I will have to try this.
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love the image dan.. i do find the trees on the left portion a bit soft.. the foreground is spoton and the colors are nice!
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I'm ready
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As you can determine by others comments, this is easily more appealing.
Sometimes, I know what I'm talking about.D
I suggest forgeting about HDR...you really don't need it anymore as evidenced by your Arcadia shots...learn PS which is not all that difficult and then see if you need HDR anymore. You can do exposure blends that look realistic in PS. Since you spent all that money on camera upgrades...get CS4 and complete your experience. I guarantee you will be glad you did.
I have to agree with the other comments, I like the original in this case. "less is more" Blending and HDR has it's place, but often it gets a little heavy handed. I love the image and great job! It was a pleasure shooting with you.
Dave
I started learning exposure blending in CS3 today. I will learn it. Thanks Ric.
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