cause of this flare?
I recently took some shots of the SF Bay Bridge and got this flare from some shots.
Is it caused from cheaper glass, not using a lens hood, combination of the aperture and zoom, or something else?
Thanks for viewing and answering.
Photo was shot at iso 100, with a 50-135 f/2.8 lens at 68mm for 3 sec.
I cannot remember if I had the lens hood on or not or if I was using my circular polarizer. Another shot was shot at iso 100, , same Tokina lens, 135mm at about 4 seconds.
Some other shots also turned out with this similar flare.
Is it caused from cheaper glass, not using a lens hood, combination of the aperture and zoom, or something else?
Thanks for viewing and answering.
Photo was shot at iso 100, with a 50-135 f/2.8 lens at 68mm for 3 sec.
I cannot remember if I had the lens hood on or not or if I was using my circular polarizer. Another shot was shot at iso 100, , same Tokina lens, 135mm at about 4 seconds.
Some other shots also turned out with this similar flare.
John "J.T."
http://johnthiele.smugmug.com
Nikon D80 w/MB-D80 vertical grip
Tokina 50-135 f/2.8
Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D
Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G
Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G VR
RPS Studio Rotating Flash Bracket
SB 600
http://johnthiele.smugmug.com
Nikon D80 w/MB-D80 vertical grip
Tokina 50-135 f/2.8
Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D
Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G
Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G VR
RPS Studio Rotating Flash Bracket
SB 600
"Sometimes I do get to places just when God's ready to have somebody click the shutter." -- Ansel Adams
0
Comments
In this case, I don't think a lens hood would have helped, because the bridge lights that are reflecting up into the sky are within the frame. This isn't light coming in at some oblique angle; it's part of the image, so a hood wouldn't have blocked it.
If you had a filter on the lens, that could be the problem, especially if it's not multi-coated.
I once took some indoor martial arts pictures using a 1990s Tokina lens (pre-digital, in other words) with a cheap Tiffen UV filter on it. The lighting in the room was dismal, and whenever a fluorescent tube was in the frame, I got horrible reflections similar to what you've got here. I'm not sure whether the lens alone, without the filter, would have done better, but I think it probably would have. Whether that would have merely reduced the problem rather than eliminating it, I don't know.
Your Tokina lens looks to be a lot newer than my old one, if it's the model that Tokina currently lists on their website (AT-X 535 PRO DX f/2.8). The description says it has a "water-repellent" coating, but says nothing about anti-reflective coatings for digital cameras. This surprises me, because it's a DX lens, and therefore a modern lens designed for digital cameras.
My guess is that you had a filter on and that's the main cause of the reflections. Can you try again without a filter and see if that helps?
Got bored with digital and went back to film.
Thanks for your comments and suggestions. I may try to go back sometime and re-shoot the location. It could be the cheap UV filter I had on the newer Tokina lens. Thanks again.
http://johnthiele.smugmug.com
Nikon D80 w/MB-D80 vertical grip
Tokina 50-135 f/2.8
Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D
Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G
Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G VR
RPS Studio Rotating Flash Bracket
SB 600
http://blog.timkphotography.com
Thanks for the advice, will try that next time.
http://johnthiele.smugmug.com
Nikon D80 w/MB-D80 vertical grip
Tokina 50-135 f/2.8
Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D
Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G
Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G VR
RPS Studio Rotating Flash Bracket
SB 600