In your picture, the cycle is coming towards you. In 1/125s, the cylce moves towards you and the apparent size changes. It doesn't matter how well you can pan if the size of your object changes during the exposure.
In Jonny's picture, the cylce is moving along a plane where the apparent size stays the same.
Guess I should have posted a photo that was close to the same view , Sorry about the confusion adbsgicom is correct on the shot. Let me give iDave two more to compare to .. You are correct that was one of the 3 best shots from that angle I pan to the Left/ Right better then Right /Left I have tried to use a Mono Pod just never worked for me iDave may want to try one for this shot.
Hope this helps iDave so he can get his shot.
These are just Ref ideas for viewing....
Canon 40D / Canon 100-400mm
Manual 1/400 f/5.6 Iso 100
AI Servo Focus in center No Flash
Canon 40D / 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM
Manual 1/2500 f/2.8 Iso 100
AI Servo Focus in center No Flash
Thank you IDave. I'm still a beginner but was really a beginner back then when that gallery was taken.... My PP was pretty bad but hopefully improved. Someone mentioned that VR should be off for moving abjects and that is absolutely correct. The other thing is that some lenses or lens/camera combos will focus faster than others. The Nikkor 70-200 2.8 VR is a fantastic lens, extremely fast focus and very sharp. The D200 I used was very happy with it. My D300 loves it too it just doesn't have the high iso capabilities as my D3. Good glass pays for itself in the long run. With my current D3 I use the same setup I mentioned in my first reply. I miss shots but that camera/lens doesn't..... Now with new models coming out for Nikon You can have a D3s and New 70-200 Nikkor for $9000. Go for it Enjoy!!! Funny how everything comes back around to the person pushing the button
Jon, awesome shots! Just curious.... what was your priority when taking the second photo? Obviously the exposure has to be accurate, but beyond that, when a scene is unfolding so fast before your eyes, is your primary concern the shutter speed or the aperature?
This is the reason I avoid shooting in manual mode, particularly for action shots: the action is happening so fast, the exposure (regardless of shutter speed/aperature) must be accurate, so I would tend to choose aperature priority OR shutter priority and let the camera choose the correct aperature or shutter speed to get the exposure correct.
In other words, my brain doesn't function fast enough to set the aperature, shutter speed, compose the shot, and nail the exposure, as the scene is unfolding before me. Having said that, if you were to reshoot the above photos, and had to select between Shutter Priority and Aperature Priority, which would you choose, and why?
Apologies for being so dense. I'm just trying to grabs shots like the fine examples you nailed, but I doubt I'd ever be able to get the exposure correct shooting in manual mode
And here's another point, which takes me back to the reason I have been shooting in Program Mode.....
Can we all agree that an out of the box photo with proper exposure (neither under/over exposed) is ideal?
If yes (without a bunch of PP, obviously) then exposure is vitally important.
Ok. In Program Mode, I still alter the camera's suggested settings based primarily on the aperature. Thus, the camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed to nail the exposure.
So, even though I'm shooting in Program Mode, I'm selecting the aperature I want. The exposure is pretty much nailed, but the focus is way off...
So, if I'm shooting in Program Mode, but making adjustments according to desired aperature, how is that any different than shooting in AP or SP mode?
If you are looking to stop it still Av will work fine for shooting if you want some Blur effect tire & or background Blur TV with Al servo will work then move to Manual Mode.. Take lots of photo's over and over you will get it soon.
Good Luck..
See if this will help also. Maybe someone can explain it better then me this is what comes to mind.
TV mode is best used when you want or need to set a particular shutter speed in order to achieve a particular effect. If for example you want to photograph a speeding racing car then you’ll obviously need to select a quick shutter speed such as 1/1000 of a second. If on the other hand you want to photograph a waterfall and have the water appear soft and fluffy like then you might need to set a slower exposure such as 4 seconds.
When using shutter priority mode you in effect lose the ability to manipulate the aperture in order to achieve different effects such as blurred backgrounds. In TV mode the aperture will be selected by the camera so that it allows enough light into your camera for a decent exposure.
Generally this mode should only be used when you have a set effect in mind that you want to capture. As a generally walkabout mode I would suggest either manual or aperture priority mode.
If you are using shutter priority mode to achieve a long exposure via a slow shutter speed then you will almost certainly benefit from using a tripod. Using a tripod (or something else to rest your camera on, such as a wall or post) is essential for long exposure shots. Doing so enables you to achieve sharp images with long exposures even in almost pitch black light.
The aperture of a camera is the opening in the lens that lets the light through to the digital sensor (or film). The larger the hole, or aperture, the more light gets through to the sensor.
Aperture in lenses is measure in what are known as f stops. All lenses have various f stop ranges printed on the front. These numbers (e.g. f3.8-f5.4) tell you the range of the aperture of that lens. There is a slight confusion in that the smaller the f number , the bigger the hole is in the camera and the more light it lets through. Therefore high f stops (e.g. f22) are small holes and let little light through.
Well, aperture affects several things in our pictures: 1. Shutter Speed
The larger the aperture (e.g. a low number such as 2.8) means the lens has a big hole in it allowing lots of light onto the sensor. This increase in light allows us to have a quicker shutter speed in order to get the right exposure.
A quicker shutter speed will allow us to take better shots in low light conditions as any blur from camera shake will be minimized. This is particularly useful if taking pictures of people or moving things indoors or at night. As a rule of thumb you should aim to have a shutter speed of no slower than 1/60th of a second if you intend to shoot hand held. Any slower and you may end up with a blurred image. 2. Depth of Field
Larger apertures reduce the depth of field of our pictures. If you are taking portraits or close ups of objects this is very useful as it allows us to blur out distracting backgrounds. This helps emphasize the subject of our pictures and train the views eyes towards our subject. So to blur a background you should try and select a high aperture (low f number) such as f2.8.
And here's another point, which takes me back to the reason I have been shooting in Program Mode.....
Can we all agree that an out of the box photo with proper exposure (neither under/over exposed) is ideal?
If yes (without a bunch of PP, obviously) then exposure is vitally important.
Ok. In Program Mode, I still alter the camera's suggested settings based primarily on the aperature. Thus, the camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed to nail the exposure.
So, even though I'm shooting in Program Mode, I'm selecting the aperature I want. The exposure is pretty much nailed, but the focus is way off...
So, if I'm shooting in Program Mode, but making adjustments according to desired aperature, how is that any different than shooting in AP or SP mode?
And why are my photos out of focus ???
Hi,
Just saw this thread... did you check the AF point? I shoot birds and nature and now am starting to get into sports and events (trying to), I think the concept is the same - you focus and track the subject and let out a burst while panning.
So my settings would be:
- set AF point in the middle
- set camera to full burst mode
- set AI servo
- depending on the effect you're trying to make set ISO to get appropriate shutter speed
- as far as mode, i've not tried P mode with this, since I shoot mainly AP, but you can try this with either mode.
I'm attaching 2 images - the top image was taken with the D200, the bottom image was taken with a Canon 50D. In both cases, the subject was moving parallel to my my field of view. Anyway, depending on the path and rate of movement of the subject, the number of keepers maybe low, but you try and just pick the sharp ones. I applied this to a motocross race that I shot. See my gallery.
Anyway, just my 2 cents. Not a pro, just trying to learn the craft through practice.
I can't seem to attach two images, so I'll post an image of the hawk shot with the D200 and another link with a 50D. Both using same method.
I understand the relationship between the aperature and depth of field, which is why, even shooting in Program mode, I alter the settings according to whether I want shallow or deep DoF. Which is my reason for posting the last comment. Even though the camera selects both aperature and shutter speed, if I'm taking control from there (i.e. adjusting the aperature) there is no difference in shooting in Program vs. AP (Av) mode. (Unless I'm missing some fundamental point.)
Regardless, I need more practice. My standby ISO setting has always been ISO 100. That's going to be my starting point for changes: I'll increase the ISO and experiment. That, and I'm going to start shooting in AP (Av) mode, and make adjustments depending on desired DoF.
I'm thinking my baseline settings for action photography will start with
Aperature Priority
Continuous Focus (5fps)
Higher ISO depending on lighting
VR setting turned off.
Focus selector set to middle point.
Anything I'm missing?
(Still not sure about the Normal/Active setting on the lens. I would think the function should be turned on for panning a moving subject, so if anyone wants to confirm or deny, please chime in.
And I hope I'm not being a PITA on this most excellent forum
p.s. LeftHand, the example photos you posted are absolutely stunning! WELL DONE!!!
In P mode (at least on Canon) the ss/f-stop re-calculates with each new press of the shutter release, so the biasing to a given DOF has to be redone each time. Av allows the f/stop to remain constant and only shutter speed is re-calculated each time. You do have the ability to get the same net numbers from both.
I understand the relationship between the aperature and depth of field, which is why, even shooting in Program mode, I alter the settings according to whether I want shallow or deep DoF. Which is my reason for posting the last comment. Even though the camera selects both aperature and shutter speed, if I'm taking control from there (i.e. adjusting the aperature) there is no difference in shooting in Program vs. AP (Av) mode. (Unless I'm missing some fundamental point.)
Regardless, I need more practice. My standby ISO setting has always been ISO 100. That's going to be my starting point for changes: I'll increase the ISO and experiment. That, and I'm going to start shooting in AP (Av) mode, and make adjustments depending on desired DoF.
I'm thinking my baseline settings for action photography will start with
Aperature Priority
Continuous Focus (5fps)
Higher ISO depending on lighting
VR setting turned off.
Focus selector set to middle point.
Anything I'm missing?
(Still not sure about the Normal/Active setting on the lens. I would think the function should be turned on for panning a moving subject, so if anyone wants to confirm or deny, please chime in.
And I hope I'm not being a PITA on this most excellent forum
p.s. LeftHand, the example photos you posted are absolutely stunning! WELL DONE!!!
Thanks for the compliments iDave.
I think these settings will give you a better percentage of keepers. I normally use ISO400 even in good light. As far as VR, I have not seen any difference with it on or off - I had the 200-400mm f4 which was terrific regardless. My birding lens now doesn't have IS. It maybe a factor when shutter speed drops.
Practice panning and tracking with birds, they make good targets :-)
I usually use A priority mode when shooting just anything out of the ordinary, such as walking around shooting candid shots ect. I want to make sure if I have a 2.8F or 1.8 I want to make sure I always get good light.
However, If I'm shooting action, sports, and want to freeze motion, I'll use shutter priority and kick it up to the max shutter.
When I'm shooting something important such as a portrait, automotive still photography ect, I can use manual mode to make sure I can fine tune the shot. This way if I want to add a bit more exposure or light to an image I can bump down the shutter and or regulate my DOF according to how much of the background I want to keep in focus or have blurred out.
However, If I'm shooting action, sports, and want to freeze motion, I'll use shutter priority and kick it up to the max shutter.
Hope that kind of makes sense.
This doesn't make sense to me. If you use shutter priority, you have to keep adjusting the dial to get max-shutter. If you run A-priority then if you have the lens wide open, you will always get max-shutter no matter what. Now, if you are shooting with a flash, then S-priority would allow you to just set the shutter to max sync and let the aperture float with the light.
Or am I just really confused here for some reason?
Comments
In your picture, the cycle is coming towards you. In 1/125s, the cylce moves towards you and the apparent size changes. It doesn't matter how well you can pan if the size of your object changes during the exposure.
In Jonny's picture, the cylce is moving along a plane where the apparent size stays the same.
Hope this helps iDave so he can get his shot.
These are just Ref ideas for viewing....
Canon 40D / Canon 100-400mm
Manual 1/400 f/5.6 Iso 100
AI Servo Focus in center No Flash
Canon 40D / 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM
Manual 1/2500 f/2.8 Iso 100
AI Servo Focus in center No Flash
http://alsphotoprojects.smugmug.com/
Jon, awesome shots! Just curious.... what was your priority when taking the second photo? Obviously the exposure has to be accurate, but beyond that, when a scene is unfolding so fast before your eyes, is your primary concern the shutter speed or the aperature?
This is the reason I avoid shooting in manual mode, particularly for action shots: the action is happening so fast, the exposure (regardless of shutter speed/aperature) must be accurate, so I would tend to choose aperature priority OR shutter priority and let the camera choose the correct aperature or shutter speed to get the exposure correct.
In other words, my brain doesn't function fast enough to set the aperature, shutter speed, compose the shot, and nail the exposure, as the scene is unfolding before me. Having said that, if you were to reshoot the above photos, and had to select between Shutter Priority and Aperature Priority, which would you choose, and why?
Apologies for being so dense. I'm just trying to grabs shots like the fine examples you nailed, but I doubt I'd ever be able to get the exposure correct shooting in manual mode
Can we all agree that an out of the box photo with proper exposure (neither under/over exposed) is ideal?
If yes (without a bunch of PP, obviously) then exposure is vitally important.
Ok. In Program Mode, I still alter the camera's suggested settings based primarily on the aperature. Thus, the camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed to nail the exposure.
So, even though I'm shooting in Program Mode, I'm selecting the aperature I want. The exposure is pretty much nailed, but the focus is way off...
So, if I'm shooting in Program Mode, but making adjustments according to desired aperature, how is that any different than shooting in AP or SP mode?
And why are my photos out of focus
Good Luck..
See if this will help also. Maybe someone can explain it better then me this is what comes to mind.
TV mode is best used when you want or need to set a particular shutter speed in order to achieve a particular effect. If for example you want to photograph a speeding racing car then you’ll obviously need to select a quick shutter speed such as 1/1000 of a second. If on the other hand you want to photograph a waterfall and have the water appear soft and fluffy like then you might need to set a slower exposure such as 4 seconds.
When using shutter priority mode you in effect lose the ability to manipulate the aperture in order to achieve different effects such as blurred backgrounds. In TV mode the aperture will be selected by the camera so that it allows enough light into your camera for a decent exposure.
Generally this mode should only be used when you have a set effect in mind that you want to capture. As a generally walkabout mode I would suggest either manual or aperture priority mode.
If you are using shutter priority mode to achieve a long exposure via a slow shutter speed then you will almost certainly benefit from using a tripod. Using a tripod (or something else to rest your camera on, such as a wall or post) is essential for long exposure shots. Doing so enables you to achieve sharp images with long exposures even in almost pitch black light.
The aperture of a camera is the opening in the lens that lets the light through to the digital sensor (or film). The larger the hole, or aperture, the more light gets through to the sensor.
Aperture in lenses is measure in what are known as f stops. All lenses have various f stop ranges printed on the front. These numbers (e.g. f3.8-f5.4) tell you the range of the aperture of that lens. There is a slight confusion in that the smaller the f number , the bigger the hole is in the camera and the more light it lets through. Therefore high f stops (e.g. f22) are small holes and let little light through.
Well, aperture affects several things in our pictures:
1. Shutter Speed
The larger the aperture (e.g. a low number such as 2.8) means the lens has a big hole in it allowing lots of light onto the sensor. This increase in light allows us to have a quicker shutter speed in order to get the right exposure.
A quicker shutter speed will allow us to take better shots in low light conditions as any blur from camera shake will be minimized. This is particularly useful if taking pictures of people or moving things indoors or at night. As a rule of thumb you should aim to have a shutter speed of no slower than 1/60th of a second if you intend to shoot hand held. Any slower and you may end up with a blurred image.
2. Depth of Field
Larger apertures reduce the depth of field of our pictures. If you are taking portraits or close ups of objects this is very useful as it allows us to blur out distracting backgrounds. This helps emphasize the subject of our pictures and train the views eyes towards our subject. So to blur a background you should try and select a high aperture (low f number) such as f2.8.
Hi,
Just saw this thread... did you check the AF point? I shoot birds and nature and now am starting to get into sports and events (trying to), I think the concept is the same - you focus and track the subject and let out a burst while panning.
So my settings would be:
- set AF point in the middle
- set camera to full burst mode
- set AI servo
- depending on the effect you're trying to make set ISO to get appropriate shutter speed
- as far as mode, i've not tried P mode with this, since I shoot mainly AP, but you can try this with either mode.
I'm attaching 2 images - the top image was taken with the D200, the bottom image was taken with a Canon 50D. In both cases, the subject was moving parallel to my my field of view. Anyway, depending on the path and rate of movement of the subject, the number of keepers maybe low, but you try and just pick the sharp ones. I applied this to a motocross race that I shot. See my gallery.
Anyway, just my 2 cents. Not a pro, just trying to learn the craft through practice.
I can't seem to attach two images, so I'll post an image of the hawk shot with the D200 and another link with a 50D. Both using same method.
http://www.lightandshadeimaging.com/Nature/Winged-Creatures-and-Other-1/9794019_M9aDo#668767300_rj8Uk
Not to beat a dead horse, but...:D
I understand the relationship between the aperature and depth of field, which is why, even shooting in Program mode, I alter the settings according to whether I want shallow or deep DoF. Which is my reason for posting the last comment. Even though the camera selects both aperature and shutter speed, if I'm taking control from there (i.e. adjusting the aperature) there is no difference in shooting in Program vs. AP (Av) mode. (Unless I'm missing some fundamental point.)
Regardless, I need more practice. My standby ISO setting has always been ISO 100. That's going to be my starting point for changes: I'll increase the ISO and experiment. That, and I'm going to start shooting in AP (Av) mode, and make adjustments depending on desired DoF.
I'm thinking my baseline settings for action photography will start with
Aperature Priority
Continuous Focus (5fps)
Higher ISO depending on lighting
VR setting turned off.
Focus selector set to middle point.
Anything I'm missing?
(Still not sure about the Normal/Active setting on the lens. I would think the function should be turned on for panning a moving subject
And I hope I'm not being a PITA on this most excellent forum
p.s. LeftHand, the example photos you posted are absolutely stunning! WELL DONE!!!
Who is wise? He who learns from everyone.
My SmugMug Site
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Thanks for the compliments iDave.
I think these settings will give you a better percentage of keepers. I normally use ISO400 even in good light. As far as VR, I have not seen any difference with it on or off - I had the 200-400mm f4 which was terrific regardless. My birding lens now doesn't have IS. It maybe a factor when shutter speed drops.
Practice panning and tracking with birds, they make good targets :-)
Good luck!
However, If I'm shooting action, sports, and want to freeze motion, I'll use shutter priority and kick it up to the max shutter.
When I'm shooting something important such as a portrait, automotive still photography ect, I can use manual mode to make sure I can fine tune the shot. This way if I want to add a bit more exposure or light to an image I can bump down the shutter and or regulate my DOF according to how much of the background I want to keep in focus or have blurred out.
Hope that kind of makes sense.
This doesn't make sense to me. If you use shutter priority, you have to keep adjusting the dial to get max-shutter. If you run A-priority then if you have the lens wide open, you will always get max-shutter no matter what. Now, if you are shooting with a flash, then S-priority would allow you to just set the shutter to max sync and let the aperture float with the light.
Or am I just really confused here for some reason?
Who is wise? He who learns from everyone.
My SmugMug Site