Help - blown highlights in water

tony0778tony0778 Registered Users Posts: 54 Big grins
edited October 22, 2009 in Landscapes
:scratch Need your insight on blown highlights in water. I am shooting this week in GSMNP (Cades Cove, Tremont, etc.). During the early morning hours, my exposures have been f8 and 5 to 8 seconds when shooting mountain streams. I used the mirror lock-up on my XSI, tripod, and wireless remote. During playback, I notice some of the water appeard overexposed (flashing) and the histogram "bled over" to the right. Is this something that can be fixed in PSE7? Should I be doing something different when shooting?

If you can respond tonight (Wednesday, Oct. 21) it would be most helpful as I have one more day of shooting and would like to learn from my mistakes.

Thanks, Tony

Comments

  • brvheartbrvheart Registered Users Posts: 434 Major grins
    edited October 21, 2009
    have you looked at them on a computer? Sometime the histo says they are blown but sometimes they are not.
  • LiquidAirLiquidAir Registered Users Posts: 1,751 Major grins
    edited October 21, 2009
    A polarizer will help. Also, if you are shooting RAW you can often pull the highlights back in post as long as they aren't too hot.
  • tony0778tony0778 Registered Users Posts: 54 Big grins
    edited October 21, 2009
    I appreciate your feedback. I failed to mention that I am using a polarizer and am shooting in RAW. However, I don't have my computer (desktop) with me.

    Could the long exposure times (5 to 8 seconds) contribute to the blown highlight?

    Tony
  • LiquidAirLiquidAir Registered Users Posts: 1,751 Major grins
    edited October 21, 2009
    tony0778 wrote:
    I appreciate your feedback. I failed to mention that I am using a polarizer and am shooting in RAW. However, I don't have my computer (desktop) with me.

    Could the long exposure times (5 to 8 seconds) contribute to the blown highlight?

    Tony

    Don't trust your meter for long exposures of moving water as what are point highlights for a short exposure get spread out over a larger area on a long exposure. Set your camera to manual and use test shots.

    If you have time bracket everything. When the light lets me keep my shutter time under 30s I usually set my camera to CWA metering and bracket +/- 1.6 stops. Rather than worrying about perfect exposure, I take those 3 shots and blend them to taste in Photoshop.
  • brvheartbrvheart Registered Users Posts: 434 Major grins
    edited October 22, 2009
    this might or might not be helpful -

    I dont know how much motion you are trying to imply - as in how fluid you are wanting the water to look, but have a look at my post here implied motion - waterfall take 2 most of those were taken at F22 with a speed of 1.5-5s and showed blown out, but when looking at them on a computer they were not that bad. Also as the others said, if shooting in RAW you will be able to pull most of the blown portions out in PP.
  • RuiMLopesRuiMLopes Registered Users Posts: 336 Major grins
    edited October 22, 2009
    My advice:
    Get a ND filter (graduated). Meter as required. Then, try to match the darker parter of the filter onto the water (with so longer exposures it´s impossible to avoid overexposure there).
    I believe that you´ll end up with good exposures on the foreground and your water "highlights" problem fixed.
    Rui
    D300, D200 coupled with some fine Nikon glass

    My Smugmug galleries: http://ruilopes.smugmug.com/
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