Lighting Test Shoplight vs alien bees vs 580EX vs others
JohnBiggs
Registered Users Posts: 841 Major grins
Ok. After reading much hate for the little hotshoe flashes I decided I needed to know what the truth is... at least the truth as far as I'm concerned.
So I pulled out all the different lights I own and tried them all in a similar configuration.
The equipment tested -
Here was the setup:
Canon 5DII with Tamron 28-75mm
Polaris Light Meter
Strobes triggered by alienbees CyberSyncs.
Light tube/bulb about 67" away. From this distance the head would have to move over 5" before it would gain or loose a third of a stop difference. So if one head was actually 68" and another 66" it really wouldn't affect the outcome.
1/125 second shutter speed (I wanted to eliminate other light sources but I turned off other lights to be safe.)
ISO 200. I have some room up or down.
All lights at full power. Alienbees with 7" reflector. 580s set at a manual zoom of 28mm. Lumipro set at 28mm.
I did every test several times with the light meter. There were no variations except for perhaps a tenth of a stop, which I tested several more times to be sure I had the right number. Then in case the light meter was off I took a shot of the area I was taking the meter reading from with the 5DII using the settings the light meter provided but rounded down to the nearest stop. This is rounding fine because it's really a sanity check and you can just decrease exposure by 1/3 or 2/3 stops as needed if you really want to. However the light meter was right on the whole time so all numbers below are the light meter numbers.
continued....
So I pulled out all the different lights I own and tried them all in a similar configuration.
The equipment tested -
- Canon 580EX
- Canon 580EXII
- Lumipro LP120
- Alienbees AB400
- Alienbees AB800
- Homedepot 250watt shop light.
Here was the setup:
Canon 5DII with Tamron 28-75mm
Polaris Light Meter
Strobes triggered by alienbees CyberSyncs.
Light tube/bulb about 67" away. From this distance the head would have to move over 5" before it would gain or loose a third of a stop difference. So if one head was actually 68" and another 66" it really wouldn't affect the outcome.
1/125 second shutter speed (I wanted to eliminate other light sources but I turned off other lights to be safe.)
ISO 200. I have some room up or down.
All lights at full power. Alienbees with 7" reflector. 580s set at a manual zoom of 28mm. Lumipro set at 28mm.
I did every test several times with the light meter. There were no variations except for perhaps a tenth of a stop, which I tested several more times to be sure I had the right number. Then in case the light meter was off I took a shot of the area I was taking the meter reading from with the 5DII using the settings the light meter provided but rounded down to the nearest stop. This is rounding fine because it's really a sanity check and you can just decrease exposure by 1/3 or 2/3 stops as needed if you really want to. However the light meter was right on the whole time so all numbers below are the light meter numbers.
continued....
Canon Gear: 5D MkII, 30D, 85 1.2 L, 70-200 2.8 IS L, 17-40mm f4 L, 50 1.4, 580EX, 2x 580EXII, Canon 1.4x TC, 300 f4 IS L, 100mm 2.8 Macro, 100-400 IS L
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
0
Comments
Actual f-stop numbers for each light -
580EX - f20
The first light I tested so I didn't know what to expect.
580EXII - f20
Suprised me this was the same as the 580. The only thing was the 580EXII was ready to go again so much faster.
AB400 - f20
The AB400 actually slightly edged out the 580EX's but not enough to gain a third of a stop. In all I'd say they are close to even. The AB400 still has a speed advantage over the EXII though. But I wouldn't actually run either light at full power if I could help it.
AB800 - f27
Now we have some power, and fast recycling too. But if you are like me and have an AB400 you probably don't even run that over 1/4. So will this ~1.3 stops help?
LP120 - f13
Well it's about 1.3 stops less than a 580 or AB400, and it cycles very slow. However if you are on a budget and can control that trigger finger there is still plenty of power here.
HD250 - f1.7 (given extra warm up time)
Say what. My lens wouldn't drop below 2.8 so I couldn't test this as easily with the camera. You will find two sample pictures from the HD250 in the gallery. One is at 2.8 in the test conditions. and the other I bumped to ISO800@2.8 (An alternative would be 1/30 @ 2.8 which should have yielded similar results but perhaps with a little shake.) The point is the LP120 blows the socks off this thing.
Here is a chart for those who are middle managers. The blue is the actual fstop. However this can be misleading. The red is a more accurate representation of power differences suitable for charts.
Here are all the sample shots if you want to get crazy. They are tagged with the light source. The metadata is still there.
http://www.biggstudios.com/Other/LightTest/10106746_NjeTi/1/694096624_cgZYB
I hope someone else enjoys this. I don't think I've seen anyone else on the net really say what the differences are. I know I have some budget lighting too, so there are gonna be some super strobes out there.
Thanks all.
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
Good job John and greatly appreciated.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
However I did a whitebalance adjustment on the two shots from the HD250. Hope you understand.
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
http://blog.timkphotography.com
Hopefully this will dispel at least some of the mis-information about those "TADPOLE" hotshoe strobes not having any power....when in fact they have as much power as some actual studio strobes and are much more controllable with the cameras on board computers.....
MANY THANX TO JOHN FOR THE TIME AND WORK PUT INTO THIS COMPARATIVE TESTthumbthumbbowbow
Link to my Smugmug site
Tim,
It was fairly arbitrary. It is the default 'zoom' on the Lumipro, and I had to pick something. I'm going to look into the angle vs the angle from the 7".
Thanks,
John
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
Cool. The zoom setting really varies the output on hotshoe flashes. I'm willing to bet the 580's would be considerably brighter if you zoomed them out all the way than the AB400, given the results that you got so far. But of course the coverage of the light at the same distance would be much narrower... so the most objective method would be to find a zoom setting that approximates the angle of the 7" reflector and use that for the comparison.
http://blog.timkphotography.com
You just saved me a ton of money. I use speedlights and have been getting good results but kept wondering if I could do better with "big" lights.
Thanks again.
www.leefortier.com
This could impact you dramatically if you choose other modifiers, or perhaps you need to light a larger area or subject(s). Plus, don't forget, that a 580EXII is $385, and an AB400 is $225, and AB800 is $279.
As John points out, the ABs recycle faster. Probably a non-issue in most situations, but at a wedding or even a more formal photo session, waiting to change batteries etc can be crippling.
(oh and for the record, I have two 430EX only, and no alien bees.)
Ohh how hard it can be to find an outlet in the front of a church. Or what if the couple wants to step outside as well. Speedlights are just so much easier. Sure you can buy the heavy battery for the Alienbees but then you have added expense (Another $299) added weight (19lbs), slower recycling and you have to turn off the modelling lamps.
After that if all you are doing is powering AB400's then what are you gaining?
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
I have just realized that you would need 64 home depot 250watt lights to match the light level of just the lumipro.
I'm not sure you would want that much heat or to burn 16000watts.
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
That would make one hell of a ringlight
Has to be my Thread of the year pick, category: interesting!!!!
It all comes down to what type of photography you do... I do shoot weddings and I use all speedlights, because it is easier and more portable. However, if I were shooting in a studio I'd definitely go for monolights.
However, I would someday like to get a vagabond and an AB1600 (or better yet, white lightning XL1600) because with that I could do things on location that speedlights can only dream about (like overpowering sunlight while shooting through a softbox, from more than 10 inches away).
http://blog.timkphotography.com
If I was setting up a permanent studio I would do alienbees too. Just for the speed and in that situation some money would be saved.
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
I will be taking family shots (4 and 5 people at once) plus individuals and couples with various backdrops (yet to be designed).
I have a Canon 50D and a speedlite 430 EX II. Could I use both an AB800 or 800/400 combo and the 430 at the same time? How difficult is it to hook up one or two AB flashes to a 50D?
For the prices the ABs seems to be very nice but I have also considered getting a 580 EX II and using it and the 430 as a slave.
This is really confusing. Thanks for any additional information.
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
if you don't want to take your lighting on the road then just get the alien bees. The will fire from the strobe of the 430 but you need to put the 430 in full manual mode or the slaves will fire too early.
You really only need to connect one ab light and use the others as a slave if you aren't going to use the 430. The ab comes with the needed cable.
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
I tried sit back, be quite and see if I could understand the value of this.
I can't.....go ahead and flame me, beat me up, hurt me.
I can't see how I would use this. To me at least there are many factors to consider when comparing lights. That said it was interesting to see how well the power of the small speed lights compared to the studio lights.
I would be more interested to see some data on how large the light pattern is in comparison to each other as well as illumination power at the center.
Even if the speed light has the same power in the center, will it have the same illumination ability as you move out from the center?
Wouldn't the AB 400 say cover (illuminate) a larger area than the speed light?
Then of course we have color temperature, size, weight, recycle time, portability, modifiers, cost, etc.
Sam
One point I am confused on is your statement about the chart, "The blue is the actual fstop. However this can be misleading. The red is a more accurate representation of power differences suitable for charts." If the blue is the actual f-stop measured with the meter, what is the unit of measure for the red? For example, the 580EXII has a "red score" of somewhere between 7 and 8. Between 7 and 8 what?
My photos
"The future is an illusion, but a damned handy one." - David Allen
That tells me the LumiPro 120 is less powerful than a Vivitar 285 HV as well, as my 285HVs seem as powerful as my 580s easily.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
This test was more or less for me. I hear lots of "this light is better than that light" and I feel many people just keep spreading things they read online without actually knowing the truth. Is this test the true end all be all test? Probably not. But for all my purposes it means a lot more to me than any of the random assumptions I see spread on forums.
I'll test the spread another time. It's just not on my priority list. I hope someone else gets value from my tests although they aren't for everyone.
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
The red is the number of stops over f1.0. The blue is the actual aperture. It's hard to look at a bar graph with a bar at 16 and another at 22 and realize in reality the difference in light is the same as the difference in light between f1.4 and f2.0.
So the red bar is meant to put it into a better perspective.
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
it's tough to really tell if two lights are equal by remembering situations where the lights have been used. Swap both on the same light stand, set the zooms the Same and expose two pictures. Let us know.
Other Gear: Olympus E-PL1, Pan 20 1.7, Fuji 3D Camera, Lensbaby 2.0, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Alien Bees lighting, CyberSyncs, Domke, HONL, FlipIt.
~ Gear Pictures
I just did a test on the AB400, and a 580EX II, similar to John's. I also did a test using the 7" reflector, and the 11" LTR. Check it out, and let me know what you think of my ugly mug... ha ha: http://camaraphotography.wordpress.com/2011/02/22/canon-580ex-ii-vs-alien-bees-400-comparison-test/
I should add that I too was surprised that the power of the AB 400 was very similar to the 580EX II. In fact, if you zoom the 580, it's brighter.
There was a post about this on POTN that I read yesterday. I believe that one of the very knowledgable members commenting said that the 28mm zoom setting was something like 84 degrees and the 7" AB reflector is 80 while the 24mm zoom (on a 580EX II) is 74 degrees. I'll see if I can find the thread.
Keep in mind that PCB's excellent marketing skills have his lights labeled as "effective watt seconds" of power. The B400 is actually only 160w/s, while a speedlight is generally around 60w/s from what I've heard. That's barely more than one stop extra. And coverage is entirely decided by modifiers.
The benefits of the B at that stage would likely be recycle time and the large amount of modifiers you could use. It wouldn't be very effective outside for more than a fill light while under the sun and besides that, you'd have to take power with you when a few speedlights will do the same trick.
Personal preference also plays a large role in it.
POTN Thread: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=35