Fill Flash

Dooginfif20Dooginfif20 Registered Users Posts: 845 Major grins
edited October 30, 2009 in Technique
Ok so I have recently become extremely interested in portrait work. Only problem is I dont really understand fill flash and the correct way to use it. I see a lot of people who say they used a little fill flash and the shot to me looks over exposed. I was informed by another photog on a different forum that he used apeture priority and then meters for the face in spot. He sets his camera up for ETTL ( I use Nikon so to me i-TTL) and then switches to manual mode and sets his exposure. After all that he turns on his flash and he says the flash and camera should work together to determine how much fill flash to throw. Is this the same method that other people use or is there something else I should know? I would appreciate any and every idea!

Comments

  • QarikQarik Registered Users Posts: 4,959 Major grins
    edited October 27, 2009
    Ok so I have recently become extremely interested in portrait work. Only problem is I dont really understand fill flash and the correct way to use it. I see a lot of people who say they used a little fill flash and the shot to me looks over exposed. I was informed by another photog on a different forum that he used apeture priority and then meters for the face in spot. He sets his camera up for ETTL ( I use Nikon so to me i-TTL) and then switches to manual mode and sets his exposure. After all that he turns on his flash and he says the flash and camera should work together to determine how much fill flash to throw. Is this the same method that other people use or is there something else I should know? I would appreciate any and every idea!

    fill flash is typically used to bring up shadowed details on a subject that is not ideally lit. For example you might be outside in the shade and the background is brighter then the subject..fill flash to even the exposure out. Or light directly from above leaving shadows around the nose and eyes..fill flash to reduces shadows. Or subject is wearing hat or hoodie that is causing the face to be draker then the rest...fill flash.

    Fill flash can accomplished severals ways.. a diffuser that throw light forward (bounce card for exampl) or more typically point hte flash directly at the subject in TTL mode and reduce flash exposure by 2-3 stops.
    D700, D600
    14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
    85 and 50 1.4
    45 PC and sb910 x2
    http://www.danielkimphotography.com
  • Dooginfif20Dooginfif20 Registered Users Posts: 845 Major grins
    edited October 28, 2009
    Thanks for the response! Well I totally understand how it should be used I was just looking to see if anyone wanted to share how they accomplish this. Anytime I use it in TTL it still seems to be over exposed. So I would proceed to turning it down and it still wouldnt look any different. I also only have an SB-600 which could be the root of my problems. Also I had never heard the adjusting your camera and then turning your flash on trick. I just purchased some shoot through umbrellas to use as a difuser to even out the light a little better. Would you say that your SB-900 was worth the money? I would like to get an SB-800, but you cant find them anywhere ever.
  • angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited October 29, 2009
    Ok so I have recently become extremely interested in portrait work. Only problem is I dont really understand fill flash and the correct way to use it. I see a lot of people who say they used a little fill flash and the shot to me looks over exposed. I was informed by another photog on a different forum that he used apeture priority and then meters for the face in spot. He sets his camera up for ETTL ( I use Nikon so to me i-TTL) and then switches to manual mode and sets his exposure. After all that he turns on his flash and he says the flash and camera should work together to determine how much fill flash to throw. Is this the same method that other people use or is there something else I should know? I would appreciate any and every idea!
    d00d...that sounds like wayyyy too much work.

    The Sb600 should work just fine, like quarik was saying.

    I've use the SB series for a while.

    I think you can use bout any mode you want, but my rec and pref are manual mode.

    IF I HAD A SB600 ON CAMERA:
    In Manual mode, I walk over to a Shady spot lets say. I look thru the vewifinder and meter for ambient...thats the light present. And if my shutter speed was within sync range up to 250 shutter speed, then I would take the photo of my subject, Chimp and increase or decrease Flash power using the + or_ as you press the flash button on side under flash pop out button. Then take another shot, Chimp and + or - to suit.

    If the Shutter speed in this setting was way over the top >250..then I'd lower my ISO until I had a range within which to work my flash at Shutter Sync speed<250.

    Also if the above scene is working and I need it a bit more dramatic, you can go up in shutter speed over ambient, provided you're still in sync range.

    I understand the photog you talked to has a method that works for him, but that just seems way too complex, at least for me.

    I use three things:

    1. ISO, to guide my desired shutter speed.
    2.Shutter Speed to allow me to hold steady or to sync with flash.
    3. Aperature to give desired depth of field.

    well, okay 4. CHimping to be certain things are working as expected.

    note: I think Shutter/flash sync on the D90 is 200
    tom wise
  • QarikQarik Registered Users Posts: 4,959 Major grins
    edited October 29, 2009
    Thanks for the response! Well I totally understand how it should be used I was just looking to see if anyone wanted to share how they accomplish this. Anytime I use it in TTL it still seems to be over exposed. So I would proceed to turning it down and it still wouldnt look any different. I also only have an SB-600 which could be the root of my problems. Also I had never heard the adjusting your camera and then turning your flash on trick. I just purchased some shoot through umbrellas to use as a difuser to even out the light a little better. Would you say that your SB-900 was worth the money? I would like to get an SB-800, but you cant find them anywhere ever.

    If you turned down the TTL flash compensation and it doesn't look any different then you are doing something wrong. It doesn't takel a lot typically to fill flash. Alternatively you can go manual and set it at 1/8 or 1/16th power.
    D700, D600
    14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
    85 and 50 1.4
    45 PC and sb910 x2
    http://www.danielkimphotography.com
  • Dooginfif20Dooginfif20 Registered Users Posts: 845 Major grins
    edited October 29, 2009
    angevin1 wrote:
    d00d...that sounds like wayyyy too much work.

    The Sb600 should work just fine, like quarik was saying.

    I've use the SB series for a while.

    I think you can use bout any mode you want, but my rec and pref are manual mode.

    IF I HAD A SB600 ON CAMERA:
    In Manual mode, I walk over to a Shady spot lets say. I look thru the vewifinder and meter for ambient...thats the light present. And if my shutter speed was within sync range up to 250 shutter speed, then I would take the photo of my subject, Chimp and increase or decrease Flash power using the + or_ as you press the flash button on side under flash pop out button. Then take another shot, Chimp and + or - to suit.

    If the Shutter speed in this setting was way over the top >250..then I'd lower my ISO until I had a range within which to work my flash at Shutter Sync speed<250.

    Also if the above scene is working and I need it a bit more dramatic, you can go up in shutter speed over ambient, provided you're still in sync range.

    I understand the photog you talked to has a method that works for him, but that just seems way too complex, at least for me.

    I use three things:

    1. ISO, to guide my desired shutter speed.
    2.Shutter Speed to allow me to hold steady or to sync with flash.
    3. Aperature to give desired depth of field.

    well, okay 4. CHimping to be certain things are working as expected.

    note: I think Shutter/flash sync on the D90 is 200

    Thanks for the response! I think your method sounds pretty easy. I was curious what you meant by chimp. Also you mean when the flash is in the hot shoe I dont adjust the output on the flash I adjust it on the camera? Sorry if this seems really dumb.
  • Dooginfif20Dooginfif20 Registered Users Posts: 845 Major grins
    edited October 29, 2009
    Qarik wrote:
    If you turned down the TTL flash compensation and it doesn't look any different then you are doing something wrong. It doesn't takel a lot typically to fill flash. Alternatively you can go manual and set it at 1/8 or 1/16th power.

    Thanks!! I really appreciate the help! I will try your method and see how it goes!
  • angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited October 30, 2009
    Thanks for the response! I think your method sounds pretty easy. I was curious what you meant by chimp. Also you mean when the flash is in the hot shoe I dont adjust the output on the flash I adjust it on the camera? Sorry if this seems really dumb.

    not dumb~
    Chimp: Look at your photo in the LCD on back to see how it looks; bonus points if you begin looking at the histogram too and adjust according to it~

    And yes. With the SB600 mounted on cam, adjust the camera button right where I mentioned it, under the flash pop out button to + or - your flash power; caveat iTTL mode, which of course, is easiest!

    and yes. I think this method, straight out, is easiest~
    tom wise
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