Sensors: Capacity vs. Sensitivity?
Twilight Error
Registered Users Posts: 16 Big grins
Hi all,
I'm beginning to shop for a high end P&S Canon to replace my aging Powershot S50 and I'd like some opnions on the G10 vs the new G11. The G10 is 15Mpixel, the G11 is 10. Does the reduction in raw imaging compensate for the improved sensor? Is 15Mpixel simply overkill for someone used to 5? I'm after the P&S over an SLR for a couple reasons: size, the availability of waterproof housings, ease of use, cost... I don't need an SLR and fear I'd end up spending a small fortune on glass I just don't use. If the camera isn't handy for taking a quick shot, then I likely won't take the shot. I don't want one of the smaller Powershot cameras, as I'd like something with the better optics of the G/S series.
Any help you guys can provide is appreciated,
Mary
EDIT: Corrected model names in the opening sentence from D10/11 to G10/11
I'm beginning to shop for a high end P&S Canon to replace my aging Powershot S50 and I'd like some opnions on the G10 vs the new G11. The G10 is 15Mpixel, the G11 is 10. Does the reduction in raw imaging compensate for the improved sensor? Is 15Mpixel simply overkill for someone used to 5? I'm after the P&S over an SLR for a couple reasons: size, the availability of waterproof housings, ease of use, cost... I don't need an SLR and fear I'd end up spending a small fortune on glass I just don't use. If the camera isn't handy for taking a quick shot, then I likely won't take the shot. I don't want one of the smaller Powershot cameras, as I'd like something with the better optics of the G/S series.
Any help you guys can provide is appreciated,
Mary
EDIT: Corrected model names in the opening sentence from D10/11 to G10/11
The time for action has passed, now is the time for mindless panic!
0
Comments
With small sensors, especially small sensors with high megapixel count, you run into issues of noise, since the individual 'pixels' are incredibly small on a high megapixel P&S. It appears that the G10 went over this 'limit' and Canon pulled back a bit with the G11. In this case, I suppose they chose performance over marketing. The new S90 is similar, though it appears the optics and smaller lens is causing some issues in RAW format.
Mary, welcome to the Digital Grin.
Although "megapixels" is a measure of an image, it is not necessarily a measure of image quality. As CMason describes, many things combine to create a quality image.
If you try to cram too many pixels into a given sensor size you risk either bettering the optics, or you don't have the pixel size to accurately measure the light falling onto that pixel. Noise is also a function per unit of imager size, so more pixels can simply expose more noise, masking scene detail.
Both the Canon G10 and G11 provide excellent image quality up to an 8" x 10" in good light. Neither are particularly good in available light, but both provide a hotshoe and allow an external flash. An external flash is often a very good way to retain image quality in poor available light. Off-camera flash and modified flash can be even better.
You mention the size and convenience of the camera as primary considerations, but the ability of the camera to "respond" to your request is very much important too. If the camera has too much "lag" between when you start the exposure and the time the camera takes the exposure, the moment you crave can be lost.
I suggest that the best way to shop for a digicam is to go to a store which has a multitude of cameras to test, and then make a partial decision based on how you and the cameras in question work together. Then, armed with that experience, you can explore the cameras further and individually, here and elsewhere on the Internet.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
That makes a lot of sense, thanks.
My mindset, when I enter a camera store, is that I will not purchase at that time. If the salesman gets too pushy, I clue them in to that reality. That has saved me from a lot of hasty decisions.
A camera is a fairly major purchase so don't feel rushed into the decision.
You also mentioned underwater use. Is that for snorkel or scuba depths?
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
This point of Ziggy's is what causes me to travel with my dSLR rather than a P&S. I have missed so many shots waiting for the shutter to activate after I press the button that I have nearly tossed my SD800 as far as I can throw it. Certainly a dSLR is more bulky, but when you press the shutter button, it fires. In fact, my 40D fires 3 or 4 times before I can remove my finger often.
One consideration, when you go shopping, is to look at the Olympus dSLR line, which is tiny in comparision to most other dSLRs. Try out a E-420 to see what I mean.
If I'd the budget, I would have a hard time not buying one of each. Unfortunately I don't and I can't so I have to compromise.
Have you seen this review?
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/Q209waterproofgroup/
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Shutter lag is going to be there in a PnS no matter what. To avoid that get an entry level DSLR (canon XT(i) or XS(i); Nikon D40/50/60), it wont break the bank, and you'll get the results you want, however you loose the easy waterproofing.
We also had a G10... Its nice, We've had 30x40's printed from it. And they look just as good as a DSLR, however you still have the shutter lag which leaves room for error.
I lean towards Canon because every camera I've owned has been a Canon (with the exception of a lonely Minolta in the late 80s) and I've been extremely happy with them. The S50 I've got now is going on 5 years old, its a veritable dinosaur among digital cameras and it still takes nice pictures. Fuji also makes a good camera, except my spouse's family have worked for Kodak for generations and to them Fuji is THE four letter f-word (yes, I know its a silly reason, but there you go).
Does anyone know why the shutter lag exists with a P&S, while it does not with an SLR? I should think the electronics can be programmed to record the current image on the sensor the moment the button is pushed, regardless of the shutter actuation mechanism.
There are a number of decisions to be made by the camera when you press the shutter - focus, metering, etc. You can reduce lag by taking it out of auto mode and setting as many things as possible manually. Almost all cameras will focus with a half-depressed shutter button, then capture at full pressure. I've been able to get lag time down to reasonable levels by shooting in program mode with most things set manually, even with my ancient Olympus D600.
I've really only ever played with the manual settings for unusual tasks, like photographing bug parts through a microscope or trying to get a halfway decent picture of our fish. I'm at just the beginning stages of being a photography geek and I'd like a camera that won't confound the heck out of me, yet have enough in the way of options to hold my interest in it for a couple more years. And did I mention that its got to be waterproof/waterproofable, have an ATM that spits out gold coins, darn my socks and connect to the internets through a satellite connection?
I'm not asking for too much, am I?
Oh yeah, Hi Grainbelt! I didn't expect to see any ADVers around here.
The settings I'm referring to are primarily ISO, white balance, and flash. Those settings are really easy to access on any camera. If you set those yourself, and focus prior to shooting, you should get fairly consistent behavior from the camera.
I understand the Canon familiarity - I'd encourage you to look at Panasonic as well, as they tend to have wider lenses than Canon, which is nice for those dramatic lanscape shots when you're out riding. I think the waterproof camera test linked earlier had the Panasonic TS1 in it, worth lookign at.
But you should also check out the Panasonic GF1, it bridges the gap between p&s and slr.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.