Shooting from a boat... help!

DeVerm

Hi there,

I've been lurking here for a couple of weeks but if I learned anything for my situation, it is that I am really lost ;-)

My situation: we live on a sail boat, are retired and travel to wherever we want to go, from the tropics to the cold. That's all good, but for shooting photo's the situation is very different than ashore. I have held off buying a good camera and got a decent point & shoot to find out what I miss with that. It's a Canon A710 IS. I like it with the under water housing but that's another story.

The problems:

- the 710 is doing okay after a couple of years but I am still worried about an expensive camera and lenses in this humid and salty environment. So I would need weather protection which will equal expensive.

- a boat moves and a tripod doesn't help ;-) I don't think IS helps because the movement is often slow like when we are anchored. It's both horizontal and vertical.

- We have a lot of overcast weather. The A719 can do 6x zoom which results in dark pictures (an example follows). So, I need better low light performance, without going into long exposure because of the movement...

- I need more zoom. But that goes against the other requirements so we're talking compromise, right?

Let me give an example, we were anchored about 200 yards from this Kuna village in the San Blas islands and this photo was at 34.8mm which would translate to 163mm for 35mm sensor. Aperture was 4.8 and exposure 1/640 :


Roughly, I would want to shoot it like:


And it really looked much different, more like:


Pls. tell me what you would bring to shoot a session here. Let's assume no preference for brand and a decent budget, semi-pro range. Full sensor? 70-200?

p.s.: the photo above was shot at ISO 100 setting. The silly camera can go up to 800 but I can't even stand ISO 200 from it. There's some more samples below.
thanks,
Nick.

run_kmc

There are many Pentax and Olympus offerings that advertise weather sealing at price points less than Canon or Nikon do (at least, that was the case last time I looked), both in bodies and lenses.

I don't know if I'd call an overcase day "Low light," but camera's with more crop factor (Olympus being the King) will offer more depth of field at any given aperture than any other digital SLR. Your lenses will also reach further with Olympus than any other digital SLR.

DeVerm

run_kmc wrote:

There are many Pentax and Olympus offerings that advertise weather sealing at price points less than Canon or Nikon do (at least, that was the case last time I looked), both in bodies and lenses.

I'm not really looking for the best deal so price range comes last on the list. For now, I have no clue about which lens with which body will be the right combination...

I don't know if I'd call an overcase day "Low light," but camera's with more crop factor (Olympus being the King) will offer more depth of field at any given aperture than any other digital SLR. Your lenses will also reach further with Olympus than any other digital SLR.

No it isn't a low light scenario of course. The problem is that there was not enough light to take the shot with the camera / lens I used. Only when the sky is blue with full sun it can take photo's at maximum zoom that don't get dark.

So, what camera and lenses would you guys take for this?

thanks,
Nick.

ziggy53

Nick, you might consider one of the Canon or Nikon professional series cameras which provide environmental seals. Couple them with sealed lenses and front filters and you have a fairly tight system which will resist ocean spray and even the occasional downpour (by design). They are not designed for immersion however.

Specifically, the Canon 1D/1Ds series and Nikon D3 series cameras are what professionals commonly use for a sea based assignment. It would seem that you would also want an assortment of lenses. Specifically I would suggest (in Canon as that is my system choice):

EF 16-35mm, f2.8L II USM
EF 24-70mm, f2.8L USM
EF 70-200mm, f2.8L IS USM
EF 300mm, f2.8L IS USM
and EF 500mm, f4L IS USM (If you need the really long shot.)

I would also add the Extender EF 1.4x II to lend some flexibility to the 70-200mm and 300mm lenses.

All of this would make a truly professional system that should cover about any shooting scenario. I would also recommend the addition of some 580EX II Speedlites (2 to start) for those situations that require more lighting control. Add some light modifiers and you are set to conquer the photographic world.

As far as color, contrast and image "pop", that comes with processing, either in-camera processing or post-processing. For best control you really need to use software based post processing after careful and thoughtful image exposure including some manual override as needed. If you are thinking you can just buy a more expensive camera and get instant better results, that probably won't happen. The best images, the kind you see published, are carefully captured and then even more carefully, but deliberately, processed to promote the individual attributes of the image.

Our "Technique" and "Finishing School" forums should be able to help with post-processing software and the actual techniques involved.

Dan7312

Both the 5D and 7D make a point of having environmental seals. Are the seals on the 5D/7D different than those on the 1D's?

ziggy53 wrote:

Specifically, the Canon 1D/1Ds series

DeVerm

ziggy53 wrote:

Nick, you might consider one of the Canon or Nikon professional series cameras which provide environmental seals. Couple them with sealed lenses and front filters and you have a fairly tight system which will resist ocean spray and even the occasional downpour (by design). They are not designed for immersion however.

Got that. Under water is a different part for me and I'm not so sure I will take that so far. I have a housing for the Canon and it gives me more than I can handle for now.

I agree with the environmental seals so will surely take that path.

Specifically, the Canon 1D/1Ds series and Nikon D3 series cameras are what professionals commonly use for a sea based assignment. It would seem that you would also want an assortment of lenses. Specifically I would suggest (in Canon as that is my system choice):

EF 16-35mm, f2.8L II USM
EF 24-70mm, f2.8L USM
EF 70-200mm, f2.8L IS USM
EF 300mm, f2.8L IS USM
and EF 500mm, f4L IS USM (If you need the really long shot.)

Well, it looks like you throw everything you have at it ;-) I am not a pro so for the body I am thinking to start with a 7D which should have the same environmental seals. It also scores very good for high ISO plus it gives me some room for long shots compared to a full sensor.

The lenses; yes I think I really need to buy the L series, although I think not every L-series lens is weather sealed. I do want to buy lenses that I can keep even when I later decide to buy a full frame camera (I am not good at selling parts). So, let's go through the list of lenses:

EF 16-35mm, f2.8L II USM: I don't think I need an ultra wide at this point. Reading the reviews I also see that many question it's performance above 20mm and/or state that it's a lens for full frame bodies only...

EF 24-70mm, f2.8L USM: Okay, so this is _the_ standard zoom lens. The only thing I ask myself is why doesn't it have IS??

EF 70-200mm, f2.8L IS USM: Yes, I think this will be the lens that can take the shot from my example at a high enough shutter speed to prevent blurring from the boat movement. On a 7D it will become 110-320mm and somewhere in that range must be the right spot that I'm searching for... right?

EF 300mm, f2.8L IS USM & EF 500mm, f4L IS USM: Right now, I am not so convinced that I can use those from a moving boat. Do you have experience with that?

Extender EF 1.4x II: That would be a great addition after I find that I can take the 20-200 all the way to 200 without blurring... I think I read it works well with the EF 70-200mm, f2.8L IS USM so on the 7D that would bring me up to 448 !!

All of this would make a truly professional system that should cover about any shooting scenario.

It should for sure ;-) I am still looking into a standard-zoom with IS though... This lens would be used for all shots aboard and under sail and things can get a bit bumpy (they do most of the time) and I think IS would really help. I know it does because the IS in the A710 makes a big difference already.

I would also recommend the addition of some 580EX II Speedlites (2 to start) for those situations that require more lighting control. Add some light modifiers and you are set to conquer the photographic world.

And where does one store everything on a boat ;-) But yes, I do need some flashes incl. remotes. I missed a lot of good shots like when we get invited to a tribal dance night etc.

As far as color, contrast and image "pop", that comes with processing, either in-camera processing or post-processing. For best control you really need to use software based post processing after careful and thoughtful image exposure including some manual override as needed. If you are thinking you can just buy a more expensive camera and get instant better results, that probably won't happen. The best images, the kind you see published, are carefully captured and then even more carefully, but deliberately, processed to promote the individual attributes of the image.

Yes, I think I'll do okay with that. Do you think the software that comes with a Canon camera is sufficient to start with? I have an older Photoshop but I don't think it can work with the new RAW formats? I also use IMatch.

Our "Technique" and "Finishing School" forums should be able to help with post-processing software and the actual techniques involved.

Yes, I can't wait to get there ;-) We will set sail into the San Blas and Colombia end of February again so I need to do some serious shopping soon.

Right now, I am thinking about a 7D with the 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens (I know it's not a L lens but so much better than I have now and nice price with the kit...) and the EF 70-200mm, f2.8L IS USM, sail back to Achuputu and try that shot again. What do you think, do have I a chance with that setup?

thanks for helping me!
Nick.

ziggy53

Dan7312 wrote:

Both the 5D and 7D make a point of having environmental seals. Are the seals on the 5D/7D different than those on the 1D's?

Yes, the seals on the Canon 1D/1Ds are more extensive and more comprehensive than any other in the Canon lineup.

The 1D MKIV has 76 gaskets and seals. If it is like my 1D MKII all of them are neoprene environmental (or similar) and designed for water shed and dust.

The 5D MKII has 21 seals and gaskets and some of those are dust seals and not designed for water shed. (Foam composition, not neoprene, for instance in the battery door and memory card door.)

The 7D seals are not documented anywhere that I have seen on a Canon site.

ziggy53

Nick,

If the Canon 7D is what you're after, I suggest the following:

EF-S 10-22mm, f3.5-4.5 USM
EF-S 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM
EF 70-200mm, f2.8L IS USM

The 17-55mm, f2.8 is very close to "L" lens image quality and an almost ideal standard zoom for Canon crop 1.6x cameras.

The 10-22mm is great for those vista landscapes and sunsets that you will encounter. It would also allow a nicer coverage in the cramped quarters of boat/ship compartments.

Yes, the 70-200mm plus teleconverter gives remarkable reach with not too much image degradation.

The 28-135mm you mentioned is an OK advanced consumer lens, but I don't think that it's a good match for the 7D. The lens is a bit slow in aperture too.

I do highly recommend Photoshop CS4. The ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) converter has a number of enhancements that are not available elsewhere. The software that Canon supplies with the camera (DPP for one) will get you from RAW files into a presentation format file, but little else. If you have an older version of PS you will appreciate the recent enhancements like "Vibrance" control, that will help give you that image "pop" you are looking for.

cdub

I'll chime in with personal experience on a sailboat. In humidity or adverse weather weather-sealing surely is useful, but unless you're taking shots in spray or rain, I wouldn't worry about it being crucial. And frankly I wouldn't even mess around with my supposedly weather sealed 5DII in spray. Don't want salt in all those cracks and crevices, but it's nice to have for the odd 'rogue' wave (or wave taken broadside in the cockpit!)...

The suggestion of an Olympus is probably a good one; or a Canon (from personal experience). While yes, a tripod is rendered somewhat useless on a bobbing boat, I don't think the same is true for IS. I think your steady hand and a reasonable shutter speed (1/50 and faster) is enough to deal with boat movement (it is for me) and IS can help you gain another stop or two. Besides, all you have to do is fire off two frames of everything and discard the first one. IS and fast(er) aperture lenses (2.8) will be a blessing for early morning and evening photography obviously, as well as when the sun peeks behind your billowing mainsail.

Cheers, enjoy and good luck.

cdub

PS: I'd add one more piece of my own advice: from a boat, typically you'll be shooting subjects that are far away. I'd go for a crop sensor that has some weather sealing (Canon 7D, Nikon D300, Olympus E-3) if I were you. A larger body will probably help with steadiness as well (within reason).

Dan7312

On the 7D, now that you have pointed it out, I can see that the seals on the battery door and memory card door do look like a foam composition.

ziggy53 wrote:

(Foam composition, not neoprene, for instance in the battery door and memory card door.)

The 7D seals are not documented anywhere that I have seen on a Canon site.

Grainbelt

The Pentax K-7 bears mentioning as another crop-sensor, weather sealed body. It, like the Olympus, has the IS systen in the body. Any Pentax DA* lens is weather sealed - the likely candidates for you are the 16-50 F2.8 and 60-250 F4 or the shorter 50-135 F2.8.

Important to get your hands on all of the cameras, particularly with the lenses you intend to use, and see how they feel to operate.

DeVerm

ziggy53 wrote:

If the Canon 7D is what you're after, I suggest the following:

EF-S 10-22mm, f3.5-4.5 USM
EF-S 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM
EF 70-200mm, f2.8L IS USM

Okay, this post had me occupied for a day or so ;-) I am starting to realize that these EF-S lenses are indeed a better choice for the 7D. I think I am going to follow this advise!

I do highly recommend Photoshop CS4. The ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) converter has a number of enhancements that are not available elsewhere. The software that Canon supplies with the camera (DPP for one) will get you from RAW files into a presentation format file, but little else. If you have an older version of PS you will appreciate the recent enhancements like "Vibrance" control, that will help give you that image "pop" you are looking for.

So, Photoshop CS4 comes with everything I need for the 7D incl the right ACR?

As I am narrowing down the list I come to the smaller details:

- UV filters. What price class or which one is _the_ one?

- (circular) polarizing filters. Do they allow me to shoot through the reflecting water surface to catch the under water part of that crocodile next to the boat? I guess so because my polarized sunglasses allow me to see it. Any recommendations? I read some reviews that put B+W high on the list.

- battery charger. The EU version has a different one... does that mean that the US version only takes 110V or can it be used with 230V too?

thanks,
Nick.

DeVerm

cdub wrote:

I'll chime in with personal experience on a sailboat. In humidity or adverse weather weather-sealing surely is useful, but unless you're taking shots in spray or rain, I wouldn't worry about it being crucial. And frankly I wouldn't even mess around with my supposedly weather sealed 5DII in spray. Don't want salt in all those cracks and crevices, but it's nice to have for the odd 'rogue' wave (or wave taken broadside in the cockpit!)...

Yes, I am lowering my requirements somewhat on that front. I never had any trouble before and tend to put the camera away before it gets really wet ;-) We're short handed aboard so there's not always time for shooting while sailing.

While yes, a tripod is rendered somewhat useless on a bobbing boat, I don't think the same is true for IS. I think your steady hand and a reasonable shutter speed (1/50 and faster) is enough to deal with boat movement (it is for me) and IS can help you gain another stop or two. Besides, all you have to do is fire off two frames of everything and discard the first one. IS and fast(er) aperture lenses (2.8) will be a blessing for early morning and evening photography obviously, as well as when the sun peeks behind your billowing mainsail.

I do use a tripod aboard but need to upgrade that too. I'm also looking at modifying the old one to clamp onto a rail or something... or is something like that available commercially?

cdub: What lens(es) did you use for long shots from a boat? Did you go longer than 200mm on a crop camera?

thanks,
Nick.

puzzledpaul

<< clamp onto a rail or something >>

Nothing to do with boats, but I've found a Manfrotto superclamp extremely useful for clamping onto all manner of things.

From memory it'll clamp onto more or less anything from about 10mm to 55mm dia / thick.

Coupled with a suitable adaptor to attach your tripod head of choice (I use a medium size ball hd) I've used it in all sorts of places - from the railings outside Notre Dame to bicycle frame tubing

Versatile, compact and doesn't cost a fortune either.

pp

DeVerm

Grainbelt wrote:

The Pentax K-7 bears mentioning as another crop-sensor, weather sealed body. It, like the Olympus, has the IS systen in the body. Any Pentax DA* lens is weather sealed - the likely candidates for you are the 16-50 F2.8 and 60-250 F4 or the shorter 50-135 F2.8.

Important to get your hands on all of the cameras, particularly with the lenses you intend to use, and see how they feel to operate.

I had a good look at this camera but after reading the reviews etc. I still put the D7 above this one. Much of that is because I am so used to a Canon. I used Canon ever since I put my 35mm Voightlander film camera to rest ;-)
The 7D is supposed to have the same weather sealing as the 5D and I think it's just a bit better than the K7. Not that it matters so much as I am now considering non L lenses without weather sealing so there you go...

About getting my hands on all of them... it's easier to get my hands on a bushmaster, cuatimundi or jaguar here as we're in the jungle of Panama. We always have to get it all right (complete) before ordering because FedEx from the US is the only way to get it here. If we go into town the newest models they have are released 1 - 1.5 years ago...

I have really big hands so I an guessing that the bigger the better for me. I played around with a Rebel a couple of days ago and it felt "small".

thanks!
Nick.

ziggy53

DeVerm wrote:

... So, Photoshop CS4 comes with everything I need for the 7D incl the right ACR?

As I am narrowing down the list I come to the smaller details:

- UV filters. What price class or which one is _the_ one?

- (circular) polarizing filters. Do they allow me to shoot through the reflecting water surface to catch the under water part of that crocodile next to the boat? I guess so because my polarized sunglasses allow me to see it. Any recommendations? I read some reviews that put B+W high on the list.

- battery charger. The EU version has a different one... does that mean that the US version only takes 110V or can it be used with 230V too?

thanks,
Nick.

I believe that the Canon 7D has basic ACR support now, with full support due shortly. Some say that the version of ACR that currently ships with Lightroom is better, but i think that ACR and Photoshop (PS CS4) is more complete as a package, so that's what I recommend for your needs.

ACR version 5.5 is what ships with PS, and you can get a 5.6 beta, with better noise control, via download.

http://labs.adobe.com/wiki/index.php/Camera_Raw_5.6

I have pretty much standardized on Hoya HMC filters, and they are pretty good quality for the money. B+W are excellent, but pretty expensive, and while the build is better than Hoya, I'm not sure that image quality is much different from Hoya HMC.

Polarizers are indeed going to help with water and glass reflections. Do rotate the filter to vary the effect. It's especially important to rotate the polarizer for darkening skies.

For chargers I am much less sure and I suggest you contact Canon directly for recommendations.

http://www.usa.canon.com/opd/controller?act=OPDSupportDropDownAct
http://www.canon-europe.com/Contact_us/index.asp

cdub

I'd still have a hard look at the Olympus E-3 - apparently class-leading weather sealing, and in-body IS, which will be a great benefit and money saver when it comes time to buy some long range telephoto lenses. The E-3 is also good value.

I don't have an arsenal of long lenses yet; I was merely speaking from circumstantial wishful thinking.

In my humble opinion, I wouldn't waste my time with a 24-70 despite the 2.8 aperture. I'd go 24-105 for extra focal length and IS (even though it's F4), or perhaps that sweet EF-S 17-55 2.8 as a daily driver, and then explore wider apertures in 70-200.

Ozzwald

Not sure, but even if a camera has weather sealing, it is weather resistant, but not water proof right?

I think i would get a 5D and use some of the saved cash from the 7D and get a good underwater housing.

can record moments beneath the ocean also.

DeVerm

cdub wrote:

I'd still have a hard look at the Olympus E-3 - apparently class-leading weather sealing, and in-body IS, which will be a great benefit and money saver when it comes time to buy some long range telephoto lenses. The E-3 is also good value.

Hi cdub,

I had a good look at the E3 and again at the K7. I now found that the K7 has steel parts on the housing so it's off the list (steel in salty environment is a no no).
The E3 is a very nice camera and I like all the sample pictures. But it is the low light performance that worries me. Shooting from a rocking boat or even a boat underway at sea, I need a fast shutter at long shots so even if it's much more costly, I'm looking at the 70-200 f2.8L lens instead of a f4.0 and a body that is good at low light / high ISO. On the Canon front it's the 7D and 5D mkII that I am looking at and the 7D is currently at the top of my list because it has this good standard zoom with IS and more affordable. The 7D body will always be good to have around even when I would buy a 5D later.

In my humble opinion, I wouldn't waste my time with a 24-70 despite the 2.8 aperture. I'd go 24-105 for extra focal length and IS (even though it's F4), or perhaps that sweet EF-S 17-55 2.8 as a daily driver, and then explore wider apertures in 70-200.

Yes, after Ziggy proposed the EF-S 17-55 2.8 and EF 70-200 2.8L, that is the combination I am looking at. If Canon would have that 17-55 as an EF "L" lens I would have a tougher choice on 7D or 5D.

I'm learning more about the camera's in the last couple of days then the many weeks before that, thanks guys!

cheers,
Nick.

DeVerm

Ozzwald wrote:

Not sure, but even if a camera has weather sealing, it is weather resistant, but not water proof right?

I think i would get a 5D and use some of the saved cash from the 7D and get a good underwater housing.
can record moments beneath the ocean also.

A good underwater housing will cost more than the camera! Also, you can't use long lenses with it. Up 'till now I have used the under water housing for my A710-IS only once above water and that was in Aruba right after hurricane Felix passed.

If the conditions get really bad I will put the SLR safely away because I'm more afraid to slam it into something than anything else. It can get very lively on a sailboat. I can then get the A710 if I have time for photo's and even put that in the under water housing if I want.

For under water, I am still okay with my A710 and it's housing. I don't know how far I want to pursue under water photography and you need at least $10k for housing, flash/video-lights and other under water kit to touch just a semi-pro level.
Look here what I manage with the A710 and it's housing:

It will be a long time before I get the techniques for under water shooting to a level high enough for needing more camera. Meanwhile, the A710 has all the modes like the SLR's like M-Av-Tv-P, a good AWB for it's under water housing and a nice burst-drive mode. Also, you can't use a view finder so you're always shooting from the LCD and often have the camera far away from your face etc. It's a whole different game.

thanks!
Nick.

CynthiaM

I've had similar issues with movement when traveling and trying to shoot from a tour bus. If you go dslr, try shooting in shutter priority. I have been able to get some surprisingly decent shots through the window of a moving motor coach by keeping the shutter set to about 1/400. The idea is to freeze the movement.

We were in St. Petersburg over the summer and because we did not have a visa, we were forced to stay with the tour group from the cruise line (without a visa, you are not allowed to get off the boat even to just take a local walk). So I did a lot of shooting from inside the coach. Here are a few examples:

dmmattix

How weather resistant is the 7D?
Found this review while researching the 7D

http://canonfieldreviews.com/7d-1-weather-sealing/

The guy really puts it through it's paces and not artificially either, Real Life (at least as real as it gets for him)

Mike

ziggy53

dmmattix wrote:

Found this review while researching the 7D

http://canonfieldreviews.com/7d-1-weather-sealing/

The guy really puts it through it's paces and not artificially either, Real Life (at least as real as it gets for him)

Mike

"Excellent" catch. Thanks for sharing.

cdub

If it's down to 5D or 7D I wouldn't think twice and would buy a 7D. The benefit of a crop sensor, plus some faster frames per second, plus the video versatility and a bit of money left over... 7D with the EF-S 17-55 will give you an equivalent of wider than 35mm and from there a 70-200 will go super-long for you, which I think is optimal in most marine situations.

Come to think of it, that is truly a dynamite package!

DeVerm

cdub wrote:

Come to think of it, that is truly a dynamite package!

Yes, when Ziggy put that combo forward, I was a bit confused with the sudden change to EF-S lenses. But after reading up about those, I decided that it'll most probably be the way to go. And like you write I will probably start with just the 17-55 and 70-200 and find out what I miss (or not). A wide lens will be nice to add to it later and I am also into macro so there's enough to explore ;-) If I make good shots at 200mm I will probably get the 1.4x extender.

About that review and another one that was linked from one of the comments: it looks like the 50DmkII has some issues with the weather sealing while the 7D did much much better. I will never put my 7D through the conditions he did so I feel confident I'll be okay, especially with the 70-22 f2.8L lens which weather seals against the body.

ciao!
Nick.

met

I have to say DeVerm, I'm completely jealous of living life on the boat and traveling the world. Just another little added input, you might benefit more from a monopod rather than a tripod on the boat. It might suit your purposes better and be lighter weight and easier to store. Also, you could always go with Adobe Lightroom rather than Photoshop.

DeVerm

met wrote:

I have to say DeVerm, I'm completely jealous of living life on the boat and traveling the world. Just another little added input, you might benefit more from a monopod rather than a tripod on the boat. It might suit your purposes better and be lighter weight and easier to store. Also, you could always go with Adobe Lightroom rather than Photoshop.

Thanks Met, I can recommend our way of living; it's much better than the rat race that we escaped ;-) Still, we have been living aboard for 7 years and only now I find some time to pick up the hobby again!

We have both tripod and monopod and indeed, the tripod is almost impossible to use aboard. I am going to buy one of those clamps to use on a handrail and expect that to be the best option because we have handrails at the perfect spot for this on both sides of the boat... time will tell.

Lightroom or Photoshop: I'm reading that there's some issues for both with the RAW images from the 7D. Most agree that they turn out 1-2 stops too dark. I think I am going to start with what I have (IMatch and old PS 7.0) and what I get with the camera and wait with new software until all the issues have been dealt with. I'm also buying some Apple hardware and considering using Snow Leopard instead of Windows for this. I understand that Lightroom comes for both Mac and Windows (for the price of one, in the same package) so that would be great.

We are flying to Holland today to visit our family for the holidays and I know some good shops there so we might bring some goodies back if the price is right ;-)

ciao!
Nick.

cdub

I don't understand the value of clamping your camera to a railing, personally. I mean unless you're totally motionless and have time to set up your shot, or if you're going for action aboard (like Robin Lee Graham did aboard Dove, rigging a camera on his mast and taking shots of himself in the cockpit). All the rocking and rolling - what kind of pictures are you hoping for? It would be like attaching a camera to a bicycle handlebar. Your arms and hands can compensate for movement aboard a (moderately) moving boat, while anything attached will produce horizons, points of focus and perspectives from all over the place...

What about one of those cheap, large camera bean-bags that you can set your camera on *when it's not under way*. At anchor or moored, you could put it on the boom, on deck... and it stows small as well.

ziggy53

ziggy53 wrote:

I believe that the Canon 7D has basic ACR support now, with full support due shortly. ...

Dan just spotted it:

http://dgrin.com/showpost.php?p=1286010&postcount=1