Printing Dark Objects

Zanotti

Z

malch

Nice images.

I think the generic answer involves adding some color into the blacks (probably some magenta). However, there are a lot of variables and I think you may get more meaningful responses if you can tell us:

1. What type of printer (printer technology) you plan on using?
2. What type of paper?
3. What software you're using (CS4 or whatever)?

Sam

I really like the second image you posted. If I could get a look at the original I could let you know more about your dark printing.

Just looking at it I don't see any reason why you couldn't get a print that looks like the monitor image.

Sam

Zanotti

malch wrote:

Nice images.

I think the generic answer involves adding some color into the blacks (probably some magenta). However, there are a lot of variables and I think you may get more meaningful responses if you can tell us:

1. What type of printer (printer technology) you plan on using?
2. What type of paper?
3. What software you're using (CS4 or whatever)?

Probably printing ex Smugmug or Mpix, I did a trials on some fine glossy paper and my home epson 380 just to see how it would look.

I have CS3. I would be happy to put up a larger or even an original link if that helps.

Sam: Here is a X3 link:

http://www.gwattman.com/Still-Life/KEW-Engines/IMG6399b/739931663_c39GJ-X3.jpg



Z

pathfinder

Is the black background required George? Could they be photographed on a white or lighter shade of some color other than black? This would act as a nice reflector to raise the light level and decrease the contrast range a bit.

If your are desiring to print these specific images, I think you might raise the curve in the upper quarter tones a touch and maybe the lower quarter tones also. You have been very careful to avoid blowing your highlights, but highlights on a metal surface are frequently specular reflections which are not going to be within the gamut of an rgb image. The second image does not seem quite as bright as 1 and 3 on my monitor.

PupWeb

Very Nice Sterling
Hi Z,

I assume the photo is a Sterling engine, it looks like one. A beautiful piece of work.

I would suggest with photos like these to use a photo box. You can control your lighting to bring out the details without blowing out the highlights. You can make one yourself just google homemade lightbox. Oh another thing, with a dark background it helps to have difuse light iluminationg behind the subject. This seperates your subject from the background giving you really nice edge detail.

I would optimize your curve with PS as mentioned.

OK My little secret
I have also really enjoyed and have had a lot of sucess wiith Nills fake HDR plugin http://www.nill.cz/index.php?set=tu1. What I do is create a fake HDR from the original. I then flatten the HDR image and copy it as a layer on top of the original. Then I use the opacity to tone down the HDR overlay to achieve the result I like.

Finally I would print at Bay photo. They manual color correct and really do an AWSOME job! This way you don't have to worry about moniter calibration and such.

Sam

Zanotti,

The image is still pretty small for detailed analysis, but on the surface I see a lot of smutz or dust spots in the black background. Also the black didn't seem to be absolutely 0,0,0.

I do think this, or any modification, additional PP can be printed as seen.

Personally I like the black background and would deepen the black.

Sam

Zanotti

Thanks to all for the help. I sent two of the brightest ones to the local Ritz to get a feel for how they may look (and so I can have them this afternoon). I will go with a real outside firm, perhaps on metallic paper after I do the adjustmetns suggested.

A couple comments:

Jim: Yes, a reshoot is probably the best solution. I have a white plexiglass sheet as well and can do almost any background. I did do a simple set up with a bright blue background, but thought it fought with the subject. I like the drama of the black.

Pup: I will look at the HDR software. I have wanted a reason to try that. Thanks.

Sam: I have looked at these prints on four monitors. On one of them, the background can be seen a certain angles, so I dont think the background is flawless black. I think some light spillage got on the navy moving mat that I had in the background. I also moved the background further back at some point, so I am not even certain where it was. As you can all imagine, when you do this, you take dozens of shots, varyign the lighting slightly - I wish I were precise enough to document each change, but its more run and gun for me.


Thanks to all for the comments, I am confident one of these will work.

Z

BinaryFx

My take is attached below, basically some use of Shadow/Highlight to open the dark tones quite a bit and tone down the lighter tones a little bit, some minor curves for lightening and extra contrast...and a black gradient on the reflection to fade it away to nothing so that it does not get "chopped off" by the white frame/border (one could go further by adding some minor vertical motion blur to the reflection if desired).


Hope this helps,

Stephen Marsh

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/
http://prepression.blogspot.com/

f-rider

How about printing on metallic paper? Not sure what it would do but could make it really pop. Cool machines, btw.

arodney

Zanotti wrote:

Probably printing ex Smugmug or Mpix, I did a trials on some fine glossy paper and my home epson 380 just to see how it would look.

Before we continue chasing our tails <g> lets get some details here. Your dark prints are solely from the Epson or from an outside lab? You’re using an ICC output profile for the paper and ink combo to your Epson? You’re soft proofing before you print? You’re using what application on what OS? How are you viewing the prints next to the display? At least viewing some of those images on the web, I see nothing inherently “wrong” with the images and wonder about getting your printing ducks in order first, before reshoots or playing with the existing data might be a prudent approach.

Zanotti

arodney wrote:

Before we continue chasing our tails <G>lets get some details here. Your dark prints are solely from the Epson or from an outside lab? You’re using an ICC output profile for the paper and ink combo to your Epson? You’re soft proofing before you print? You’re using what application on what OS? How are you viewing the prints next to the display? At least viewing some of those images on the web, I see nothing inherently “wrong” with the images and wonder about getting your printing ducks in order first, before reshoots or playing with the existing data might be a prudent approach.

Andrew:

I went to your web sites and found a great treasure trove of information. I did send out the prints and they were quite successful. I do run Vista/CS3 on a Spyder3 calibrated Dell XPS 16 Laptop.

The in house print test was never ment to be the final, I know enough about profiles and home printing to be completely scared away from ever getting serious. My test results just gave me pause to ask about the process.

I went outside with my work to a known printer where my set up has had success in the past and the prints turned out as expected. I did lighten them up a bit before sending out, but it was more hightlighs and shadows as recommended by a previous poster.

My dad was pleased with the results - although he was simply thrilled I did it, more than a serious critique. He also put several on his iphone to show at the shows he attends.

This is the one he liked best:




Although I must assume because of the metal work involved, not the photograph value.

Anyway, a long winded way to say thanks for the help and I am enjoying reading through your web site. I recommend it to others interested in high end printing.

Warmest regards,

George Zanotti