A One Month Trip of Unfortunate Duration
And so the trip begins...
Shasta and I decided that school had been a real challenge so we packed all our gear and stepped foot onto a plane headed for Africa. I would like to note that not everyone is happy with our traveling. I would also like to say that we do not travel to anger them, we just happen to love this way of life. I had always believed that getting to Africa wouldn't necessarily be easy. I am glad to say that I was less than disappointed. Our first stop was in Seattle. We then boarded a plane to JFK airport. While in Seattle, and shortly before boarding the plane to JFK, I watched a news report show a pretty intense looking blizzard and wind whipping the poor reporter. Although my pity level doesn't stay to long knowing that he stands out there when theres a perfectly warm building nearby, I know what snow looks like he doesn't have to stand in it for me to get the idea. Still his warning “If your flying into JFK airport expect to be delayed” was firmly in my mind.
Thanks to global warming and what I can only assume is poor news reporting there was no heavy wind, or surprisingly any snow whatsoever. We were soon off the ground and back in the air. Headed for Barcelona, Spain.
Once landing in Barcelona we quickly proceeded toward the train station so that we could make our way to Girona where we would board another plane and continue our way toward Marrakech, Morraco. Getting anywhere from Alaska is always a long trip. The Girona airport was our first night on the ground and we spent it sleeping on the hard floors in an unforgiving environment. Kids screamed continuously though the night, people stamped about, and the loudspeakers seemed to never cease.
Somehow we finally managed to board the plane to Marrakech. After our 6th airport in 3 days we stepped out of the airport and extremely excited to be back on our feet! The excitement didn't last long as we quickly found ourselves on an 8 hour bus ride toward Tenehir where we would be able to get to the Todra Gorge. The leg stretching and jumping excitement would have to wait. We were joined on the bus by many other Moroccan travelers that appeared just as weary.
We landed in Tenehir speaking none of the languages that the Moroccans yell at us so we tagged along with a few people we met from the bus named Miguel and Javi. Moroccans are incredible in their language, while most seem to speak Arabic there is also French, Spanish, English, and Berber. We met some people who could hold a conversation in almost 7 languages. Considering we couldn't even blunder through Spanish that was impressive! We got into a taxi and began the short ride to the gorge that should cost 7dirham per person. For future reference 7.5dh = 1 USD. So we figured that wasn't bad. Miguel and Javi began to argue with the driver and we were back on our feet before we drove 100meters. “The driver wanted to much! 15 dirham per person!” Shasta and I looked at each other, we had been on the move without a bed for 4 days, finally got a taxi toward a hotel in the middle of the night, and now we were back on the sidewalk because he wanted $1 more then what was normal. I was pretty sure our new friends had just become my closest enemy. Thankfully any anger I had was swallowed by the bed I was soon to enjoy. We finally got a truck, an open truck full of people barreling down the road on a rather chilly night and got to our new home for the week. A hotel called Les Roches that Miguel and Javi had planned on staying. Since we couldn't easily communicate with anyone we just stuck by them and they organized everything for us and them. We found our place to sleep and laying down in a bed was like eating my favorite piece of Carrot Cake. I spoke loudly of my enjoyment and promptly entered a coma.
The next morning I walked out to see what area we had stumbled into. At night we were only able to notice the stars disappeared so we must be in some steep area. I walked into the middle of the rooms and looked up suddenly feeling as though everything in the last few days was completely worth it.
The rock surrounded the hotel, not just on the sides but overhead as well! I went for a short walk to check out our new area but not before breakfast in a nice quiet room that felt as though it were truly authentic.
Shasta and I decided that school had been a real challenge so we packed all our gear and stepped foot onto a plane headed for Africa. I would like to note that not everyone is happy with our traveling. I would also like to say that we do not travel to anger them, we just happen to love this way of life. I had always believed that getting to Africa wouldn't necessarily be easy. I am glad to say that I was less than disappointed. Our first stop was in Seattle. We then boarded a plane to JFK airport. While in Seattle, and shortly before boarding the plane to JFK, I watched a news report show a pretty intense looking blizzard and wind whipping the poor reporter. Although my pity level doesn't stay to long knowing that he stands out there when theres a perfectly warm building nearby, I know what snow looks like he doesn't have to stand in it for me to get the idea. Still his warning “If your flying into JFK airport expect to be delayed” was firmly in my mind.
Thanks to global warming and what I can only assume is poor news reporting there was no heavy wind, or surprisingly any snow whatsoever. We were soon off the ground and back in the air. Headed for Barcelona, Spain.
Once landing in Barcelona we quickly proceeded toward the train station so that we could make our way to Girona where we would board another plane and continue our way toward Marrakech, Morraco. Getting anywhere from Alaska is always a long trip. The Girona airport was our first night on the ground and we spent it sleeping on the hard floors in an unforgiving environment. Kids screamed continuously though the night, people stamped about, and the loudspeakers seemed to never cease.
Somehow we finally managed to board the plane to Marrakech. After our 6th airport in 3 days we stepped out of the airport and extremely excited to be back on our feet! The excitement didn't last long as we quickly found ourselves on an 8 hour bus ride toward Tenehir where we would be able to get to the Todra Gorge. The leg stretching and jumping excitement would have to wait. We were joined on the bus by many other Moroccan travelers that appeared just as weary.
We landed in Tenehir speaking none of the languages that the Moroccans yell at us so we tagged along with a few people we met from the bus named Miguel and Javi. Moroccans are incredible in their language, while most seem to speak Arabic there is also French, Spanish, English, and Berber. We met some people who could hold a conversation in almost 7 languages. Considering we couldn't even blunder through Spanish that was impressive! We got into a taxi and began the short ride to the gorge that should cost 7dirham per person. For future reference 7.5dh = 1 USD. So we figured that wasn't bad. Miguel and Javi began to argue with the driver and we were back on our feet before we drove 100meters. “The driver wanted to much! 15 dirham per person!” Shasta and I looked at each other, we had been on the move without a bed for 4 days, finally got a taxi toward a hotel in the middle of the night, and now we were back on the sidewalk because he wanted $1 more then what was normal. I was pretty sure our new friends had just become my closest enemy. Thankfully any anger I had was swallowed by the bed I was soon to enjoy. We finally got a truck, an open truck full of people barreling down the road on a rather chilly night and got to our new home for the week. A hotel called Les Roches that Miguel and Javi had planned on staying. Since we couldn't easily communicate with anyone we just stuck by them and they organized everything for us and them. We found our place to sleep and laying down in a bed was like eating my favorite piece of Carrot Cake. I spoke loudly of my enjoyment and promptly entered a coma.
The next morning I walked out to see what area we had stumbled into. At night we were only able to notice the stars disappeared so we must be in some steep area. I walked into the middle of the rooms and looked up suddenly feeling as though everything in the last few days was completely worth it.
The rock surrounded the hotel, not just on the sides but overhead as well! I went for a short walk to check out our new area but not before breakfast in a nice quiet room that felt as though it were truly authentic.
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Shasta and I grabbed our gear and headed to an area know as the Garden, or Les Jardins D'Ete to the locals and Jardin Des Roches. We climbed on route in the shade under some pretty good wind before heading to the Jardins D'Ete and once again meeting up with Miguel and Javi but not without passing the local stalls of Moroccan goodies. They have some very beautiful local crafts and Shasta was quick to pick up a Pashmina scarf. The weather was chillier then we had expected and the wind whipped through the valley at somewhere around 40mph.
We still didn't have the climbing guide yet but were met soon by Hassan who was the local guidebook writer. It is a hand written guidebook done in about 6 languages. He wanted 250dh for it, it was about 15 pages. Thats about $35 and this is the off season. He says he usually gets 400dh for it ($53 or $3.50 per photocopied page), I says were not buying one. Often times in my travels I have found that climbing anywhere named “The Garden” usually refers to the amount of vegetation on the wall. I was pleasantly surprised to find that here it meant that we were belaying out of someones garden, their personal growing area that had a nice tramped down area for belaying. It was mostly protected by the wind though and that meant a great day of climbing.
We climbed a few 5.8s and the climbs got progressively harder as we went along the wall until the final climb which was a 5.10 or so. Miguel and Javi moved along the climbs just a few steps behind us. The rock was great with pockets and strong holds, I don't remember a single loose rock the whole day.
Javi and I had the pleasure of being the first to climb in the sun as it finally rounded the cliff and basked us in warmth.
Miguel was also excited to be out climbing
The climbing here is amazing, the potential is perhaps even more incredible. Behind Miguel is the Elephant, Scorpion and some other cliffs.
That night the euphoria of the place was still on my mind. I walked along the hard marble and could imagine life in this moment lasting forever. The stars shone brightly and the cliff loomed large overhead.
The next morning we decided to head to a popular climbing area called Petite Gorge. Like most of the climbing areas they are right off the road. This climbing area has a right and a left. The left is off the road across the creek and has easier climbs. The right is on the road, literally belaying from the pavement and has harder routes. The walk is a brisk few easy miles along the road where trucks and vans go flying by at high speeds often with sheep on the roof.
And you pass a lot of rock to get there!
We are escorted down the road by a local who speaks almost no english but enough to show us that he wants to climb to. After I setup a toprope Shasta is nice enough to part with her harness and we tie him in. He gets a few feet pretty easily in his half shoe / half slipper contraptions before freezing and sticking to the rock. After a few quiet moments I realize he may be getting scared and eventually climb to talk with him. After a bit we coax him back to the ground where he explains in hand movements that the rope scares him, this is shown as he climbs quickly back to where he stopped without the rope and guesteres “See!”
Eventually he heads off to talk with someone else as we slowly begin to pick up other climbers in the area. It proves to be as popular as reported and soon everyone is climbing just the few routes to be found around us, despite the numerous routes all over the gorge. It seems we have found the sport herd mentality.
My girlfriend has beautiful feet, all pedicured and with tape to cover the burns from her new climbing shoes.
On the opposite side of the crag a few Spanish are going after some harder routes two pitches at a time. The look like some great routes and I am able to crank out a few photos.
Shasta takes the time to show me her beautiful blue eyes.
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The creek below offers refuge to a great many Bedouin in the area. They use it for everything from cleaning their clothes to feeding their animals.
As always we passed the shops on the way back to our hotel. I tried bargain for a Jalaba or as I like to call it “Obi-Wan Robe” we continued toward home base. This time however we picked up a visitor and he invited us to his house for some tea which we agreed to. Once in Morocco you will quickly find that “Come to my house for tea” is like getting a Timeshare pitch. They are going to try and sell you something, we found this to be without exception. This night however they were very kind and tried to show us carpets which we declined at the moment with “Enshallah” which means “If Allah Wills It” this saying is great and can get you out of a great many situations.
The next morning we checked out the guidebook that Miguel was able to talk down to 150dh and it settled my mind, we would do the long ridge route regardless of the gear! That and I had already soloed the first pitch before everyone woke up, and that was one of the crux pitches. Shasta and I grabbed the gear and headed off to the ridge with a few extra slings that Javi gave us.
The climb started at the back of one of the booths and we climbed quickly in a windless and beautiful day. There was one bolt on the first pitch that I was happy to clip and then no anchors. The slings already making their use.
The next few pitches brought more of the same, a few random bolts and then no anchor which made for some fun slingings. This anchor felt like one of the more solid anchors and was my favorite.
We were not suffering in our views, on the left you can just make out the elephant on the rock that gives that section its name. Under that elephant Miguel and Javi were having a go at some great routes.
In the lower valley business went on as usual for the local nomads. You could often look off in the distance and see caves where someone would stick their head out. You were peering through their front door.
The climb went along wonderfully. We found a total of 5 bolts in what was supposed to be 9 pitches although we strung up around 11 or 12. I also found and HB Wales cam and was excited to place it unnecessarily later. Many pitches went 40-60meters with no protection.
Some pitches were no more then short bouldering problems then walking along the ridge.
Once at the summit we got a good view of Todra, the town before the gorge, and the surrounding area.
We planned the walk off which we heard was a good hour and a half. It was easy to see that they were not underestimating the time as the Summit of the climb was not the summit of the peak. We got a good look of Javi and Miguel on the other side of the valley. Can you see the elephant now? How about the climbers?
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The Hotel
Another view from inside the hotel
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From the Garden
Climbing in Petite Gorge
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We took the long trail over the summit of the peak which is mainly just a high point on the upper plateau. Of ten we would see a local walking his sheep over the top of the rocks while we stopped many times for pictures.
On the way down toward the lower valley we passed a local leading her burros toward their home. After taking this picture she was adamant that I pay her for it. It was an unexpected occurance but I figured if she wanted retribution for her likeness in a photo I shouldn't shrug her off. We didn't really have anything to give her however moneywise so Shasta parted with her Burlington pearls and we were off once again down the trial.
Until we were back at the start of the route and the sun was finishing its time the gorge just in time.
Thing night we talked with Javi and Miguel who in turn had talked with Hammed and got us a good deal on a trip to the Sahara Desert. Now we were having a grand ol' time but in the list of all the things I would do in my life vising the Sahara was near the top. We decided we would spend one night there this time and that way we could come back and climb some more before having to take off to our next destination!
Our driver, who spoke french and arabic, picked us up in a rather nice landrover and we begin the 3 hour drive to the desert.
Making small stops along the way where the driver decided that we “needed a break” near a shop of his relative. Although everyone says that someone is their relative on a constant basis.
The we hopped back in and continued along, in this picture you can see women washing clothes in a river that flows over the road.
Fossils are also prevelant in the area and there are many many shops that sell them. They advertise through massive rock pilings on the mountains.
Finally the road ends and the driver pulls off the road. Only he doesn't stop, in fact he doesn't even slow down much as we enter onto a famous track for an international rally race. We are now just 40km from the Algerian border. In front of us the objective begins to come into view.
After a very bumpy and windy ride we come to a hotel that we are told will be taken by the desert in less than 100 years, fed an excellent meal, and impressed by the architechture.
This small restaurant has a few items that seemed out of place although everyone asked “Did you ski on the dunes?” In fact our trip didn't include skiing but it wasn't to important, nobody seems to carry a boot size 15 in stock anyway.
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The tracks of humans were also quite noticable this near to the restaurant although we were the only ones around.
Our first walk was only about 10 minutes but already we felt as though we were getting lost in the expanse.
There were a few tent cities set up within our view of the immediate area. These were for guests who payed through different people, they would take a camel through the desert and then return to the close safety of the restaurant. We were glad to hear we would not be staying in those so close to civilization.
It was then time to meet our transportation. Mine was named Blanco, or white. Actually, I couldn't figure out if that was the name of the camel or if the guide was just telling me the color but we seemed to get along just fine. Along with Jimi Hendrix dromedary and Bob Marley dromedary who could get into too much trouble?
Our guide walked barefoot through the sand and led us over many dunes.
And we got further and further away from civilization.
The sun began to set and all the sand took on a beautiful red. We had been on the camels for a few hours now and although they only have one hump, and it is padded around it, that one hump is not comfortable.
We came over a dune and saw our one little tent city on a small oaisis far from anyone else. There was a large group of tents setup for about 40 people. We were the only ones who would be using this tent city and they had set up a small table in the very center with four mattresses surrounding it. On the table sat four small cups and one pot of Berber Whiskey (To the Moroccans this is Mint Tea, not alcohol). We all sat in wonder of the serenity and beauty that comes from the desert, it is truly a wonderful place. We are also told that Sahara means “the lucky people” and we could find no other way to describe ourselves. We drank tea until the sun went down and the stars came out. Our guide made a small fire from brush and brought us some drums to which we all proceeded to bang on very out of tune. Eventually we got some good rhythm and sang the night away.
This shot is not very good but its a memory.
In the morning we were woken early and immediately went to the nearest dune to watch the sunrise. The sunset was great but I had expected more colors so was happy to see that the sky danced in the clouds with a kaleidescope of sun.
Javi decided to take a longer walk to a higher hand dune.
Days before Miguel had found out his wife is going to have a girl! He was very excited and sent her a text from the top.
This is quite possibly my favorite picture I have taken of Shasta.
And of course we took the fun pictures of jumping.
Soon we were waved back to our tent city for breakfast before we headed back on the dromedaries.
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I already told you the camel pics are sweet... Where are you at now? I intercepted an e-mail to you that implied Italy? (hehe) Sounds pretty awesome.
Oh, and the ball's in your court since I just posted, we're waiting for another from you.
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It is fact that at this part of the trip Moroccan Mint tea became my favorite drink of all time. I don't drink alcohol so it wasn't a big competition but I love the tea and we drank it heartily. After our trip in the desert we had a cup of tea and jumped into the land rover for our long ride back. On the return we stopped in Tenehir which is the last large town before the Todra Gorge and had some amenities we were looking for. Mostly, we were out to find a kebab so that Javi could pay me my winnings from a game of Mongolian wrestling.
After our kebabs we were led by a man through a small portion of the town where they made goods and went to school. Every kid you see will ask you for money, its a sad thing.
He led us through mazes which could barely fit a few people. Every now and then we would come up to people who didn't see to excited to see us.
Other times it would seem as though we had the whole place to ourselves.
Their architecture is amazing. Most of the places seem to be condemed and left to disintegrate into the earth, their walls crumble and the ceilings are long gone. Then someone comes from the front door and you get a quick glimpse of someones home. Its amazing what they have to live through. We heard that there is a company cooperative between Morocco and Belgium that wants to fix this portion of the town and rebuild it.
What is the purpose of this lock?
After leaving that area and heading back to the vehicle our local held out his hand for money, this was not unexpected but he wasn't very happy when we only gave him a few dollars. The Moroccans are very kind but also its hard to tell when they are going to want someone from you or not. We took the nice drive back to the hotel and promptly slept the night away ending Shasta's birthday. Before I went to sleep however I had a little talk with the building owner and started chatting with him about Shasta's birthday. I think that John and Tracy will really appreciate what I organized.
The next morning we decided on going to an area that was before the Petite Gorge but new to us. The wind was once again blowing although not to bad currently. Shasta and I were both a bit happy and sad about the fact this was going to be our last day climbing in Morocco so we took good advantage of it. First we climbed a few easy routes then I got on a 6b+ which is somewhere around a hard 5.10. It had a tricky move and as I pulled over a bulge I reached up for the next hold. Suddenly I heard a pop and felt my wrist move awkwardly. The next then I knew I was flying through the air. I had hurt my wrist, although usable it definitely was not good. I climbed out to the left on a slightly easier route and finished through some pain. I continued to climb the rest of the day but only easy routes and each one was painful. Miguel and Javi decided to climb the 6b that I had finished on as well.
And Shasta climbed up the easier 5b as I belayed so that we could both take pictures of Javi and Miguel.
Miguel decided to lead the harder 6b+ and fell about the same place I did on a nice looking fall.
Working his way up he got to the same place and did roughly the same procedure.
And then he pulled through! It was a great work of effort. After that move he clipped the draw and promptly got to a harder section.
Miguel came down and Javi finished the route from there it was basically a 3 person attempt on something no harder then 5.11a. It was great fun though! After they finished it I went back and painfully decided to ignore reason, so I climbed it. This time without falling although it doesn't mean I climbed it smart.
On the way back we climbed at a small crag beside the river which should have been beautiful but the wind whipped sand in our faces the whole time making it quite difficult to belay. After that torture we returned to the hotel as the sun went down. I took one last photo of the Garden.
That night we went up to the rooms and I made up an excuse to go down stairs and talk with Hammed the building owner. At around 7pm we all headed down to dinner, everyone but Shasta was in on my scheme. Miguel and Javi gave knowing glances as we all anxiously awaited the dinner. They led us into a room we hadn't used before which was beautifully lit and they had flowers on our table as well as a candle sitting in front of Shastas seat. Dinner was a beautiful plate of skewers, couscous, and vegatables that we had not had before. It was much different then all the previous dinners. We ate greedily and sat back with our stomachs full. As we finally finished dinner they brough a large candle holder with 6 candles to the table and set it down directly in front of Miguel. Shasta looked around confused as we faked our own confusion. Javi listened to our waiter in French and looked to Shasta to say “they said there is no desert tonight”. She looked seriously distressed and thought “stinkin hotel!” and then she looked up to see Hammed as he walked with a huge smile and a chocolate cake that had Shasta spelled on the top in both English and Arabic. Everyone began to sing happy birthday to her in Spanish. Her eyes immediately began to water and the smile she grew didn't leave her face all night. It was a wonderful time as we all cheered, played on drums, and said goodbye to our wonderful friends Javi and Miguel. We will miss them! They also have pictures of the cake but I did not get any!!
That next day we borded a train for Marrakech.
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Cuong
Would love to do another shootout somewhere down there...hmmm maybe next year or 2011?
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With our white knuckles and sweating brows we arrive at Marrakesh at one of the most insane intersections I have ever seen. Its about 7 lanes converging into one center. Its not even a roundabout, its an open circle. Cars slowly drift out into the center as vehicles race down on them from all sides while they dodge people bravely walking through the gauntlet. Its a site to behold for sure.
We came without a hotel so we began walking toward Jeema El-Fna which is the main square for restaurants and has the largest open air restaurant in the world. We soon find a huge expensive looking building that says Hotel on it and we joke about how expensive it must be. I am curious what an expensive hotel costs in Marrakesh so we walk on in looking like we haven't washed our clothes in weeks (we haven't) and asked the first guy we came to how much it was for a night. He kindly tells us that we have entered the house of the presidents administration, and that the president is a woman. We are both surprised! After a tour of the building we are led back off toward Jeema and we find a nice hotel that gives us a discount because they are just opening. Its a beautiful quiet area a short walk from the square. We drop our bags and proceed to see what all the hubbub is about.
Its pretty much a smörgåsbord of juice, dates, fruit, skewers, taijin, and just about any trinket you could want.
I had a little fun shooting from the hip, although I am not very good at it so I didn't get hardly any shots worth using.
We visited many shops looking at tea glasses and conversing with the locals we came to.
The Moroccans do have a beautiful assortment of trinkits and we spent a good deal on them!
I am terrible at bargaining. I begin with a number barely below what they offer me then eventually give in, its a bad system. So when we walk up somewhere and begin to bargain I shut my mouth and Shasta does all the work. She talked almost everyone down below half of what they initially offered, it was a sight to behold.
We scoped out the best restaurant to get up and take a photo from above and they knew they had a good spot. They charged $3 for a small bottled drink with the counter man explaining to me that the price was for the balcony. Still I was excited to get a pano of the area so I paid it!
And I got my pano.
The square is pretty intense.
There were many games going on, some were boxing where if you took a picture there was a guy on you in a heart beat asking for money for it. Another was this pickup the cigarretes box with two little sticks. Nobody got it while we were there.
As our consolation prize to ourselves we stopped by this nice guys shop and bought some dates which we ended up sharing with people later.
The next morning we got up late because of a missed wake up call, it was the sound of our taxi that woke us. Jumping in we took the quick drive to the airport where our taxi driver promptly tried to fleece us again asking double what we should pay. I had had enough though and gave him what we thought was fair and left. He cursed us in French as he drove off. We quickly entered the airport and got our bags prepared but it wasn't going to make the cut for weight so we had to pay to the ridiculous feet of 35 euros for an extra bag on Ryainair, this took as while. As did standing in line and waiting to get through. Eventually we were only about 40 minutes from boarding time and the line for security was extra long. I got to the front of the line and the lady pointed to the other one, you go there she said. I noticed all them men were in that line and suddenly realized that me and several others missed the small sign that indicated women only. I was a little more then peeved and stood in the other line as it remained unmoving. Time ticked slowly and we watch the small arm catch up with the big one. When I was nearly at the front of the line Shasta convinced the security man to let me through a little early, we rushed to passport control and waited in an even slower line. Soon one of the two passport control men stood up and left. We finally made it through passport control 10 minutes before our flight was meant for departure and 5 minutes after gate closing time. We rushed to the door and looked out on the tarmac. There were no planes, not a single plane on the entire runway and our plane was delayed for the next 6 hours. I should have be happy we didn't miss it, but at the time I just wanted to strangle someone.
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Your trip is magnificent! The dunes, climbing & the tea. Mint tea--love it.
We finally got on the plane after much worry, thanks to conversations with people in the airport who had been since 9am...the previous day. Apparently a nice sized storm was covering Europe with literally inches of snow. Coming from Alaska we found this no big deal, they found it a big enough deal to close Madrid. Our plane had to wait for them to ferry in new deice fluid since they ran out in Pisa.
We arrived at Pisa late in the night during a heavy rain. We both took it on memory that our plane was leaving early the next morning so we would go and see the leaning tower since neither of us had and find a cheap place to sleep if possible. If not we would come back and sleep in the airport. We found a bus that would take us right by the Leaning Tower and that was the first stroke of good luck, it was the last one too but hey, its nice to have a first. Not knowing where we were going entirely since the bus was flying down the road and passing stops before it said they were approaching, we missed ours. I quickly rang the bell and the driver pressed on until the next stop, which happened to be a Cemetery. In the middle of the night, in the pouring rain, and at a cemetery we began the walk back toward the plaza. In Alaska my mom had given me a card with $100 for my birthday so that Shasta and I could have a really nice dinner traveling, its not something I normally do. So we found the first place we could and walked into it. This specific Pizza joint was much nicer looking on the inside then out and all the very well dressed patrons halted their speech to gaze in our general direction. We were soaked head to toe, and I was wearing the Jalaba I eventually bought. Somehow they actually sat us and we proceeded to greedily order multiple items from the expensive menu. After our dinner it came time to pay and I pulled out the visa gift card from a company called GreenDot. Only to see in small letters it says “Only Valid in United States”. It is this moment I would like to take to say that this GreenDot Visa Gift Card company is a complete load of garbage, they also charge $6 a month until its all gone. They make it hard to use the card and you have to pay to get it. Don't ever use this gift card company!
We pull out our shiny euros and pay for the meal defeated then began our walk to the leaning tower. In the rain its lost some of its luster.
We tell each other “well we came and saw it” then began to leave only to be stopped by a rather drunk man from Arkansas and a few of his companions from random other places. I quickly become a local and get tired of Americans. When we escape we stumble into a Pension which is basically just a hostel only to find out it will be 40 euros per night, which is far above our budget. The bus ride back to the airport is less pleasant. The airport is busy with people playing a silent game of slow motion tag as I try to use the money eating internet machine to check us into Ryainair. Ryainair will charge you 45 euros to do this for you. I put in my money, get onto the internet, fly over to hotmail and begin to check us in. The machine shuts itself down, it gobbles up my money then comes back online with a cheery smile. I unplugged it and walked off after kicking it, I would have to come back and try again but not before I teach it a lesson.
After finally checking us in at 2am and happy that we will be leaving in only 5 hours I see our departure time from the corner of my eye. It says 6pm, my mood changes and I walk as though I have just seen a meteor coming directly for earth. Its all over from this point. I walk over to Shasta and tell her the news, we go out on the town at 2am walking from the airport, and a few hours later return. We tried to find a place to sleep with it being 120 euros now at the cheapest. Cumbled in the corner soaking wet still and on the cold floor we sleep for a good 5 hours.
The next morning I feel a lot better so the gloom of this post should hopefully change! Finding myself once again on the bus we have decided to go back to the tower and check it out during the day. It was strange to see the city alive and bustling with other tourists out and we even found some internet with a print shop.
I have seen lots of images of the leaning tower but I had never really seen any pictures of the surrounding area!
Next to the leaning tower was a beautiful church which was preparing for their Christmas ceremony.
One thing that most the churches have in common is the amazing ceilings. Where we like to paint them white in the churches in America they decide its nice to have color.
You can go up the leaning tower by paying some money but we had paid enough out in the last few days and just decided to see it from the outside.
And the always Peekaboo tower shot.
After spending the day on the town we headed back to the airport to brave it once again. This time we got at the front of the line, flew through security and spent the rest of time waiting for the plane. Then we were on to Malta!
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Sam!
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When we arrived in Valleta there was a huge group of people who ran screaming out of a restaurant with signs directly in front of us. I figured we just got caught doing something embarrassing on some kind of candid camera but it was a much more romantic event. Two men with video cameras came flying out of the crown and another with a photo camera flew into the scene. A man dropped to his knee and pulled out the ring which he presented to his knew finance. It was really neat to see and apparently was on TV later, I can only assume we were as well since we were in the middle of it!
One of the first places we visited was St. Johns Co-Cathedral. I didn't get to see it last time so off we went. It is generally unimpressive from the outside.
Once on the inside your discover that every taken step is on a tombstone of marble. Each is different with colorful pictures and latin.
Its amazing how we have this giant superstition about walking over someones grave and here they purposly put them in the floor. The walls are lavishly decorated in all colors.
We continued on through the town for a little while then broke from the group and Kyle, Shasta and I headed off to a climbing area called Victoria Lines. Although they have lots of routes listed we quickly realize that climbing can be quite short here. The tallest line we are able to find is around 12-15 meters and we solo them for the most part. I soloed halfway up a random route and then found it to be a little stiff so I backed off. My wrist began to throb again as I was quick to discover I had not healed from my Morocco injury. Kyle, who is 17 and climbs upward of 5.12 jumped up to it and only had a little trouble as he cruised the route tagging a rope.
We climbed a few routes, all of them very short and then decided to call it a day.
The descent was a walk along the cliff, over the dam, and back along the road to the bus stop.
After a little climbing we all felt like watching a flick so we headed to Valleta and caught Jim Carrey in A Christmas Carol, which is the darkest christmas movie I have seen in a long long time! The whole city was lit up and everyone was celebrating.
Christmas day we went to the hostel that my parents were staying at and we all had a stocking. There were 8 chairs with stockings on the terrace of their hostel, even Kyle had one. Before we left Alaska we decided that to save money and add a twist we would only buy Christmas presents for each other in the
countries we were going to and they had to be something we could bring back with us. It was really fun and I would suggest it to anyone who is traveling around Christmas time! We then went to Carmens house, I had stayed at her place 2 years before, and ate a great meal.
A new day saw us at Mosta Dome which at one point was the third largest dome in Europe.
In the next photo you can see a discoloration in the ceiling of the building. This happened during World War 2 when a rather large bomb crashed through the roof during a service. There were 300 people in the temple at the time. The bomb slid through the isle and stopped, unexploded.
These are my parents!
Another place that I had not been to before was Popeyes Village. This is a village that was built for the movie Popeye starring Robin Williams. When the governement went back to tear it down they found that people had moved in making it hard to bulldoze. So eventually it became a rather expensive park but an interesting way to spend an afternoon.
Some areas look like a real house on the outside:
But once you stepped inside it became apparent that it is an old movie set.
Shasta had a good time playing on some of the safer areas of the set.
We also watched a metalsmith make Knights of Malta crosses.
After we had all the excitement we could take from Popeyes world, including a Maltese speaking Olive Oil and Popeye, we headed to the Silent City of Mdina.
Where there were more tombstones in the floor.
And quiet city hallways.
And Family
The night fell away and after a long day of going all over Malta we were all ready to leave the Silent City and head back to soft beds and hard floors.
The next morning I was getting the itch, I had had enough sightseeing without climbing so we decided to head off to Gozo where I knew of some good climbing!
First a quick trip to the rooftop of our hotel brought a beautiful sight.
And the hectic streets of Sliema,
A cheap bus ride took us to the Gozo Ferry where we met with the rest of the group. This wasn't on purpose but in Malta you always run into someone you know even if you just got there. We arrived, got anxious, and went right to Xlendi for some climbing. I had stayed in Xlendi before so I knew right to go for the climbing. The wind was picking up and by the time we got on the rock the sun was gone and some rather intimidating clouds had rolled in. Rolling with them was thunder and lightning.
(Can you spot the climber?)
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Cuong
+1
I like that you take lots of panos. Gives a great feel to the places you go.
After climbing at Xlendi it was time to bring my parents out for their first experience deep water soloing. We went to a great harbor called Mgarr Ix-xinni which is also the first place I even went scuba diving and well...we went in. Getting to the harbor was a nice long walk from Xewkia (which I am probably misspelling).
The church where the bus dropped us off looms off in the distance.
This is my dad. He is 60 years old and can now add Deep Water Soloing to his resume. We jumped in and swam around the corner until we got to a fun cave for the climbing. The rest of my family as well as Elisa all jumped in.
The cave had a great route out of the underside that ended in a tuff move. Kyle gives it a try.
Slips
And Falls
Shasta took most of the photos that day since I spent all my time climbing! Here are a few of her photos!
Coolest Family Portrait Ever. My mom on the rock behind, My sister in the middle and my dad on top. I am preparing to enter the water. We zoomed in and found it funny that my dad actually has his hands in his pockets!
Long way down
The Cave
We moved on for the day after a great amount of climbing and jumping spending the rest of the night relaxing. The next day Shasta, Kyle and I headed off to Inland Sea. Our first climb included a traverse along the base of the cliff with full gear and a camera until we reached the bottom of the climb. It was a scary traverse although relatively easy. The climb was a nice crack to the top of the cliff and I followed after Kyle so that I could get some photos. The water was a crisp blue green below. Shasta followed last.
Its not hard to tell that everyone is having an amazing time! Its either at freezing or well below it in Alaska and were climbing here with our shirts off.
Well most of us, some of us need to keep the shirts on, for decency sake!
One interesting thing about Malta is their anchor situation. Although there is an increasing amount of bolted anchors there are just as many trad anchors and some “man made” anchors.
The route we climbed is the most obvious crack on the left side of the cliff.
Not wanting to spend all of a clear hot day on the ropes we packed them up and headed for the jumps. After some climbing it was time to go in!
Kyle taking a run off the cliff
Then it was off to the Azure Window area to watch the sunset and have the end of an awesome day. The limestone is warn away by a constant barrage of waves to form interesting features.
And a vast array of colors.
Even in rough seas the water is tempting!
After the sunset we decided to take a taxi back, since walking the 4 miles or so back to where we were staying didn't sound as fun. While waiting for the taxi we posed our best jumping picture. Kyle was smart and just stood there, we look like crazy folk.
We called Xavier from Victoria and moments later we were meeting up with him again. Gozo is only 9 miles across and 4 miles wide so its generally easy to get anywhere although you'll use your legs plenty. We arranged for pickup the next day and we were off to Mgarr Ix-Xinni where there is the greatest concentration of routes and has a great potential for more.
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