Film shots from Newcastle
Patti
Registered Users Posts: 1,576 Major grins
I picked up my film today. Here are a few candid shots from pubs and Grainger Market. C&C gratefully accepted.
I was trying to get an overall feel of a busy pub with multiple conversations going but I wasn't able to get a good enough perspective for any patrons to really stand out. It's just a hodge podge with not focus
and busted
I was trying to get an overall feel of a busy pub with multiple conversations going but I wasn't able to get a good enough perspective for any patrons to really stand out. It's just a hodge podge with not focus
and busted
The use of a camera is similar to that of a knife. You can use it to peel potatoes, or carve a flute. ~ E. Kahlmeyer
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
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Comments
These two are very nice. Is there some reason you don't want better blacks? It will add a lot of drama and help with the noise.
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
It's very easy in Photoshop. I'm sure you can also do it in LR, but I don't use it very much (too hard for me.)
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
I'm not sure. I just started trying film in Sept. (an expensive experiment). I'm not sure if it's something I'm doing, the processing or what. The first photo of the crowded pub is untouched. Here are a couple before adjustment
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
Here is the pub couple after a tweak in LR:
[imgr]http://www.ruttpix.com/photos/753776654_g9zeN-X2.jpg[/imgr]
And here is what I figured out about using LR to improve these images
- First you have to click the "Develop" tab in the upper right. This might be very obvious, but I thought I'd list everything I figured out.
- Take the image to grayscale to get rid of any tint. There might be a better way, but this hits the problem over the head with a big hammer.
- This thing is a histogram. It shows how much of the image falls into each shade of gray. It has shades from darker to lighter along the horizontal axis and amount of the particular shade along the vertical axis. You'll see that with your original iamges, it shows that there are no very dark grays. Instead there is a big mountain in the histogram a little to the right of the leftmost edge. This means that the darkest point of the image isn't really black but a lighter shade of gray. Real black lives in the leftmost edge and real white lives on the rightmost edge. So we want to fix the histogram so it will distribute the shades all the way to the left.
- The easiest way to do this is with the "Black" slider. Pull it to the right and it will distribute the histogram further to the left. Do this enough and you'll pull it all the way over to the left edge and you will have some real blacks. THe histogram will show it and you'll also be able to see it the image. Don't just trust your eyes here. Use the histogram as well so you know you have real blacks. Your eyes can fool you.
- The problem with using the easiest method is that it can plug the shadows, meaning that you will lose some of the details in the darkest parts of the image. You can do better by using the tone curve which gives you more precise control over just which shades get how much darker. The curve represents input/output darkness. Originally it's a straight line, meaning that the image is unchanged. Pulling a point on the curve down will make parts of the iamge that were originally that shade darker. Pulling it up will make them lighter.
- The easiest way to get started with the tone curve is to click on this little button to get into a mode which lets you see where a point on the image is on the curve. A good start is to find a point on the image which you think should be black, click on it and with the mouse button down, move the mouse downward to pull a point in the curve to the bottom axis. After you do this, you can play with the curve with the mouse to try to make it steeper as it rises to the right and thus get more contrast in the deep shadows. This takes practice.
Hope that helps.Thanks so much.
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
Not to derail, but why the admonition about LR? I use Aperture but Lightroom is equivalent and I find the image manipulation tools more than sufficient for all but the exceptional cases. Plus the DAM features are extremely useful.
I've opted to save the ~$1,500 for CS4 until I have a clear requirement or project for that particular piece of software.
Patti, I've been itching to try film again and as luck would have it my Sis-in-law has an old Canon T70 with a 50/1.8 she's going to let me have. Now to get a few rolls of high-ISO, B&W, grainy film and go out and shoot.
Cool! Looking forward to seeing your work. A friend included 2 rolls of Ilford XP and 1 of Rollei R3 + development/prints in my Christmas present. Colour me happy in B&W.
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
I don't know. I love LR.
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
And you can work around the price if by any stretch you can qualify as a student or are willing to settle for an older version. Even PS 7 is a lot more powerful than LR.
The second image - once reworked in PS or LR - is really terrific Patti!!
To respond to Rutt's post - I haven't scanned film in ages, but it looks to me as though wherever you're getting your scanning done is doing a pretty lousy job - these shouldn't be coming through so lacking in tonal range. Perhaps you under exposed, but still...
"He not busy being born is busy dying." Bob Dylan
"The more ambiguous the photograph is, the better it is..." Leonard Freed
You can either click on it to lock the display on, or just mouse over it for a quick look.
I generally slide the blacks slider up until I have some some clipped aways of true black. Just a little more that I would like, than move the fill slider up to bring back some of the details.
I think your view of LR may be a titch colored by your inherent love of post processing - for you it's an intellectual challenge; for me it's a drudgery that's been forced upon me by the switch from film to digital. I started using PS at least 10 years ago, and it's the only thing I used until picking up a copy of LR a couple years ago. As a PS user I find LR totally intuitive, and also find that it meets my processing need for the vast majority of images. But different strokes, etc....:D
"He not busy being born is busy dying." Bob Dylan
"The more ambiguous the photograph is, the better it is..." Leonard Freed
Here's my latest rework of #2
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
MUCH better, though I'd still go for a darker shade of....dark.
"He not busy being born is busy dying." Bob Dylan
"The more ambiguous the photograph is, the better it is..." Leonard Freed
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography
I hate to say this, but here is the difference between what I can do in PS and what you can do in LR. Real deep black, no plugged shadows. Two moves you can't do in LR:
Of course the difference is subtle, but it would be very noticeable in a print on matte paper and a good B&W process.
I don't mess much with my photos so LR is satisfying my needs for now and it organizes things to my liking without having to use several programs. So far I haven't had the desire to learn a lot of PP skills available in CS4. I want to try to get the photo in the camera as much as I can so I don't have to spend any more time in front of the computer than necessary. I'm sure as my eye for the esthetics of B&W develop, I'll likely change my tune.
... I'm still peeling potatoes.
patti hinton photography