Flash advice
Coleman Photography
Registered Users Posts: 351 Major grins
I want to start using flash (off camera). and I have been reading strobist. think im ready for a flash. haha. whats guys thoughts on the LumoPro LP120. I know im going to end up getting multiple flashes so thought i would start with on of these.
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I really like what I have been able to do with the SB900 except that you cannot turn off the damn preflash or turn it low enuff to not fire studio falshes that have built in optical slaves.....my other Nikon gripe is that when you are using the pop up flash as commander or a SB900 as commander the pc sync port is disabled....so I cannot fire Sb900's with commander and other flashes with radio trigger......
Other than that I am really liking the SB900 and -plan on getting more but I also plan on having several Vivatar 285HV's a portable back ups.......they are powerful and very time tested as reliable and rugged.....my last one died about 6 months ago and it was already 25yrs old.....they run best off of Quantum Battery 1 or 1+....that i buy off ebay even if the battery will not hold a charge as I can have them rebuilt fairly inexpensively....as long as they come with a working charger..................
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390086379063&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Art, You cant Fv lock, to prevent the preflash. I use it on my D90 so the peanuts dont go off early.
It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
Nikon
http://www.time2smile.smugmug.com
All I can say is, I couldn't imagine ever starting out with off cam flash without using one of the Nikon SB models.
My cheap and tested suggestion would be to buy a SB-600 and use it off cam and use your camera as the commander and try that, then step yo game up when ready!
As an aside to the preflash [on Cam when in commander] overtly contributing to the exposure..I had that problem when I shot ttl..but now I shoot manual and no longer have that issue. In manual mode the flash does what you say, in ttl, it always try's to get the proper exposure.
summarizing: SB series 600,800,900 any of them are a smart choice for your camera.
Cheers,
Can't say for certain about differences not having used the Vivitar.
But, the Sb is made by the Nikon guru's and it is without a doubt a substantial piece...I have dropped mine into the bottom of a water fall seeing it flash as it sank, and now I have another one I gutted and removed the internal battery and added an external one...they just defy my attempts at killing them~and yes, they both still work~
Saw one on CL two days ago local for $150..don't know quite why I didn't snag it...I only have 3~
Good Luck~
SO you will end up spending I think...one way or another~
Yes. Somehow you'll have to tell it to fire. The hat trick with the Sb6,8,9 is, they can aid you in TTL on/off cam ...TTL can be hugely useful if you need the light to be correct, bright and if it is changing fast~ ah..and the rub..no trigger needed!
ps: some folks have trouble with the SB's going far, but mine, outside I've measured to 98 feet slaving line of sight. inside a room, IR signals bounce so much, you can fire them from around a corner~
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Off camera is easy, you can even put the flash next to you or behind you and it still works!
It will be good in the future if you continue to grow your system, SB900 can be your next step then use the SB600 as a second flash.
Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.
Kinky Friedman
The Vivitar is a totally manual flash......so you'd have to shoot your camera in manual mode ........The Sb600 is an ittl flash and will communicate with the camera to a degree.....With any manual flash it is best to also won and use a flash meter, preferably an incident flash meter.....I see all sorts of really good ones on ebay for very little most of the time.
I have never owned a SB600 and really stretched my budget to get the SB900 but i am really glad I went to the top. It will be my main flash for weddings and location portraits or any location shooting for that matter.
This flash has dropped in price dramatically over the years.....it used to list around 225 now can be purchased from 99.9% of all retailers for $89.00 brand new.....there are some trying to sell it for full list but I am certain they will see the light whem they still have their same inventory a year from now..........................
do it once and do it right.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
Are Alien Bees or White Lightning flashes off brands......no just different brands......Vivtars are not off brand....they were industry standards for several decades.....they are still very viable for use by any serious amateur or PRO photog......they do not communicate with camera or anything else........They are very reliable and rugged as they are not stuffed with chips and electronics.....in a sense they are simple flashes.....but only in the since that they have no microprocessors built into them........Vivitar, Metz, Sunpak, Norman, Promaster, Achiever, Nissin and some others have been around for a very long time.....they have earned the right to be main stream flashes from their longevity in the market share if for no other reason...........if one is comfortable with using a manual flash then when one moves in to the realm of dedicated intelligent flashes he/she will be much more ready to handle that situation that will inevitably come up when the brain of the iTTL flash dies and it will only work in total manual mode......
Yes you can operate an iTTL flash in total manual mode but if you start with a less expensive manual flash then you have no choice but to learn how to properly expose a photograph, without the ability to cheat...............
The bottom line is that all flashes do one thing in the end.....expose the scene......and I can expose the scene just as well with a Vivitar 285HV as I can with my $500 SB900........I can do multi flash, I can vary the output from full to almost nothing........yes you have to make the changes yourself but that is how one learns........
Another reason not to invest in expensive iTTL flashes to start with is if one decides that flash is not for them....they do not have as much invested to try and recoup............and the Vivitar 285HV is still a very hot seller........................
http://nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/
Check the CLS, and BL sections
Good Luck, you got a great deal on a flash you won't regret...
It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
Nikon
http://www.time2smile.smugmug.com
First...I gotta know where you got one new for 120...that is a deal!
Go to your menu, it is #e brackting/flash and the choose e3 flash, the 3rd one down and go in there and set the flash to TTL, hit ok.
2. Set the menu selections of the SB600 by hitting the zoom and - buttons at the same time.
You scroll thru the different options by using the - button once inside the settings menu.
you turn a setting on/off by using the mode button.
When you are done inside the menu, hit those two buttons again at the same time and you're outta there .
3.Mount it on your camera
4. Meter for the scene like you normally would in Manual mode and let fly with flash and all.
5. Hint use the cameras flash adjustment button to power up/down on your flash power a bit.
6. Using this thing off camera is just as easy. All you have to do is adjust the camera in e3 AND adjust the SB600 to ~ slave on in the menu settings.
Have fun! Tell us here how it works out. or even better, post some photos~
Yeah...I'd like to know also........Great find!!thumb
A few questions I have is, when i use it off camera and use the pop up flash to triger it the pop up flash is still contributing to the exposure I think becasue i did a few SP and I had that pin needle catch light in the center of my eye and yes i set the built in flash under bracket/flash to "=" where its just commanding. and how should i set my camera settings for shooting indoor. like shutter 1/60th iso 200 f5.6. and say i take the picture with those setting without the flash on and its still really dark barrely visable then turn the flash on and fire away and it looks good. is that just making the flash work harder more output. and i should jump up the iso and aparture so it just barely underexposed. Sorry for such a long post. and thanks guys for all the help.
Can you give us a shot of your set up?? or at least a diagram......how close is the flash to you when shooting....need all oertinent info to give
good answers....
Sit for your SP...a basic bust crop.
1. Set the Sb600 about 3 feet off to the right or left as desired at a 45' angle to your face.
2. Pull down the built in diffuser if you don't have anything else to diffuse it.
3. Set the Camera to ISO 400, Shutter 160, f 5.6 Manual mode.
4. Set the Commander mode e3 to Manual
and set the on cam flash to --
and the Sb to M 1/4
in that menu.
5. Take a shot and then adjust shutter speed or flash output to suit.
too dark, lower shutter speed, or increase flash out
too light raise shutter speed all the way to sync, then go lower on flash out.
6. I think if you try this you'll find the camera's signal not as contributory.
7. tell us how it goes.
cheers,
Thanks I have been messing with it a lot and think I have figured it out I will try and post a few shots up soon. I shot close the thougha settings just a tad different. And have flash on camera left mounted with an umbrella. Wow do I like using off camera flash. And thanks for all the help guys
Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.
Kinky Friedman