High Grain/Low ISO Question..
l.k.madison
Registered Users Posts: 542 Major grins
So I'm putting the finishing touches on a wedding before I order prints and I've noticed something that's bugging me: A LOT of my outisde/shot at 3:30 in the afternoon/plenty of light shots have a really weird grain to them. One shot will be in crystal clear focus, two shots later (nearly identical settings) and it's fuzzy. I can't figure out why. I did have my flash on, working as a fill (I shot into the sun for a good bit and was playing with glare), could it be because the camera assumed the flash would light everything up? I do shoot full manual by habit but the camera's supposed to be smarter than me at this sort of thing, right?
Hubby and I are stumped as to how this happened, I'm hoping on some seasoned pros to voice their ideas ::hint hint::
Here's the fuzzy example, shot with a Canon 40D, 17-55 mm at f/2.8, ISO at 320, shutter speed is 1/5000 (which again, grain at those numbers? :dunno) Feel free to look at it in full size on Flickr, I fear the wrath of a mod if I post the huge one. *it isn't fully edited, ignore the coloring, it's the quality that has me stumped.
Here's a great example: Same camera, same lens, same ISO, this shutter speed was 1/8000 (which I would think would cause more grain..)
I can't figure it out, any ideas?
Hubby and I are stumped as to how this happened, I'm hoping on some seasoned pros to voice their ideas ::hint hint::
Here's the fuzzy example, shot with a Canon 40D, 17-55 mm at f/2.8, ISO at 320, shutter speed is 1/5000 (which again, grain at those numbers? :dunno) Feel free to look at it in full size on Flickr, I fear the wrath of a mod if I post the huge one. *it isn't fully edited, ignore the coloring, it's the quality that has me stumped.
Here's a great example: Same camera, same lens, same ISO, this shutter speed was 1/8000 (which I would think would cause more grain..)
I can't figure it out, any ideas?
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The first seems a bit underexposed for the circumstance... if you brought it up any at all in post, that would explain the grain. The couple is strongly backlit, so it would have tricked your in cam light meter... Usually I find the grain when I don't nail the exposure at the moment and bring it up in post. That will creat a grainy photo at any ISO.
The second one looks as though they were properly exposed and didn't need any adjustment in post, so that is why there is no grain.
Anyway... that is my guess.
The 2nd Shot would be cooler at f/2.8 and flowers further in front of them so their heads would be in the bokeh.
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Here's the SOOC versions of both, as big as flickr will let me blow them up (I don't have a smugmug, sorry guys).
I didn't think about changing exposure making grain, I knew that it would, but that thought never went through my head, that might be it, though..
I still can't figure out why there's grain at all, honestly. I'd be ok with a little, but these look like a ISO 800 out of my XT.
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Some things to thing about ...
- As Heather has already mentioned, pushing the exposure in post (attempting to correct under-exposure) is a sure way to induce grain.
- Fractional ISO on Canon cameras can induce problems. Ziggy has posted some informtion on this here. Based on this information (and others), I shoot at ISO 100, 200, 400, 800, ... you get the idea. I find shooting at these full-stop ISO settings to be resolution enough to get the job done. I do the fine exposure adjustment using either aperture or shutter-speed (or both).
- As for the camera being smarter about something than you - almost never true! The camera does not and can not know everything you know about the scene you are attempting to capture and can know nothing about what it is you intend. For posed shots, it's almost always better to shoot in Manual mode, especially when using E-TTL flash for fill and then use FEC to adjust the duration (power) of your flash.
- Noise is caused by changes shutter speed or aperture only to the extent that such changes cause the image to be under-exposed. If the image is well exposed at 1/200 (or 1/2000), it will be well exposed at 1/100 (or 1/1000), assuming you make appropriate aperture adjustments.
- Shooting with flash at 1/5000 - you need to be setting your flash to High-Speed Shutter Sync (HSS). When set to HSS, the effectiveness of your flash is dramatically reduced. If you were more than 10 or 15 feet from your B&G, it's a good bet that your flash didn't contribute much (if anything) to the exposure.
All that aside and while you didn't ask for it, I would council that you not include the first shot in deliverable to your client. It's a miss for a number of reasons:- Pole, antenna, bridge running through the bride's head
- Bridge running through the grooms head
- Faces of both very much under-exposed. I don't think you can pull them up without some serious damage.
- Missed-focus - your plane of critical focus is some distance in front of the groom's feet
But, I really like the second shot - that's cute and I think your clients are going to love that one.My Photos
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THANK YOU, Thank you, Thank you, Scott.. That was tons of information in a few short sentences. As far as the backgrounds, that's a very hard place to shoot, tons of buildings, boats/barges, etc. Great location (and special to them) but it's just a killer. As an FYI, that's one of two Mississippi River Bridges that splits Baton Rouge, we were on the east side .
Well, and others that commented as well, next time I'll shoot only on an increment of 100 .
And we blew up the first shot to see exactly what happened, the focus is on her dress and since they aren't on the same plane, the focus was on the bricks on his feet AND her dress instead of both of them. She did order it, but she ordered it as a 4x6, so fingers crossed that in a print that small, what we see will be harder to spot.
Thank you again for everybody that contributed.
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I know you asked for opinion on the grain but I do love the look on the grooms face as he looks over
at his bride.. That is what I see when I look at that picture, I am sure they will love it!
Scott pretty much said it all. If you're outdoors, shoot at ISO 100. WHY THE HECK would you shoot at ISO 320 if you have a stabilized lens and 1/5000 shutter speed? (Not asking really, just asking rhetorically... Next time, shoot at ISO 100. Done deal.) ...Or even shoot in "LO", if your scene is in soft enough light to lose a stop of highlights. Expose your images to the right, avoid intermediate ISO's, and don't edit images too much in post. Especially with a crop-sensor camera, all of these errors will be magnified. Noise reduction technology has gotten really awesome at higher ISO's, but is VERY taboo at lower ISO's so there is just no way to hide the difference between crop and full-frame sensors... Just check any reviews of the recent crop-sensor cameras- ISO slowly climbs till about 400 or 800, then actually levels off or DROPS as NR kicks in. So check your reviews, and avoid that mid-range peak in noise...
=Matt=
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And thanks, Dee, maybe us Cajuns have to stick together. Those two were so in love it was sickening at times, she claimed they were uncomfortable with PDA, but I would have NEVER believed it from the way they kept smiling at each other. The pictures of him kissing her head were just the sweetest ones, her face showed so much emotion. As much of a stickler as I am about what shots the clients see, if they want it (and I approve, of course) they can have it. My favorites are NEVER their favorites.
I have a newborn shoot on Saturday (inside, using a huge window and my softboxes) and I'll shoot on 100, just for ya'll (I said I was a Cajun, didn't I?).
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I've shot in their house before, I did her maternity shots back in November and my ISO was on the lower end, 200, maybe as high as 400, but I don't think it was that high. That day it was bitter cold and rainy so the windows weren't an option. I did have both of my softboxes and we used those for light.
I wasn't totally serious about the shooting at 100, promise, that's why I added the smiley.
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=Matt=
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So, yup, I try to check my ISO before every important image and when I move from one light source to another (like from inside to outside, etc).
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On another note, the couple used fake flowers not very pretty ones either. A kindness might be to not put much focus on them.
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Yes us Cajuns need to stick together. Starting at 100 is a good rule of thumb, I am learning myself but try to use the light meter and bump up or down in settings to get different outcomes. I go back and look to see what my settings were on the pics i like and make a mental note. Then I forget it all and start over
I shot 8 day old Hannah with ISO at 100, about a 1/3 or 2/3 slightly over-exposed, her shots are in their own thread to show ya'll what happens when I pay attention to what I'm doing!!
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If you did focus and recompose the shot, next time use the selector on your camera to move the focus point to their heads while framing their whole bodies. Given that you are similar in height...give or take a little, you will now have a correctly focused shot, with sharp facial features, and everything else will also be in focus.
Just my two cents. Hope this helps.
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Ed
it is a very easy program to use. i usually adjust the noise level adjustment to 5-15% depending on how much grain is in the picture and leave the noise suppression section alone.
after it processes you can click on the image and see the before/after effects... i've always been happy with it and what can i say its FREE!
Thanks!! I'll look into that. I've sent a few pictures through Bibble to clean them up and it helped out a good bit.
I shot a wedding in July on ISO 400 at 2.8 throughout and had issues with grain there as well. We were informed as everybody was leaving the rehearsal that the officiant didn't want us using flash, after he watched us flash on and off for two hours trying to make sure we could light up the whole church with one setting (yes, I know, two hour rehearsal...grr) so we were forced to do what we could. Apparently, my 40D needs some serious light
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Your first photo, 2.8 on a far day like that. Too low for an F-stop. If she is a tad in front of him he might be out of focus. Move your F stop above 5.6. Try a higher F stop 9 or 10. I love using 2.8. But I started hating it for the same reason.
I end up shooting a lot of couples at 5.6 because it usually burs the background enough, but keeps both people in focus.
Don't try to set it and forget it with your aperture settings. That is what P mode is for. USE your aperture to get the effects you want. KNOW what each lens does at various apertures and distances. Proper use of DOF is one of the main differences between a snapshot and a professional image IMHO. Bracket with your DOF so you can make the final call in post. Make decesions of how you want to portray your background/secondary subject and use the proper aperture setting to achieve that. Use your outside focal points and/or focus and recompose to get focus on the eyes. Focus and recompose works 90% of the time IME. Certainly there are times where you just take what you can get, but most of the time you can do it just like you want it.
there are 3 things that effect DOF
1. Focal length
2. Distance to subject
3. Aperture
This is photo 101 stuff, and as a professional photographer we should all have a very good understanding on how this works with our own equipment!!! My old Canon 1N film body had a really cool feature that was automatic DOF. You could focus on 1 subject and then lock in on a second subject and it would calculate the aperture for you. I don't know why they don't have that anymore! maybe that is still on the 1D's.
I'll get off my soapbox, but it breaks my heart to hear people sacrificing good, conscientious photography just to make things easy. Not trying to pick on you Caroline... many people quote aperture settings thinking they can translate across the board but they can't. Huge difference between f5.6 on a 200mm vs a 24mm, or f5.6 on a 100mm at 5 ft vs 20 ft. No easy way, you just need to know your gear, and chimp or bracket when it is critical.
Matt
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