C&C please...
topcat374
Registered Users Posts: 157 Major grins
This is my first C&C request (deep breath!). I don't think this is a particularly stunning shot but would like some constructive critisism about any aspect of it:)
Taken with a Nikon D50, 55-200mm lens at 95mm, f/22, 0.5 sec SS. I have increased the saturation in the sky and water in PS and darkened the highlights a little. Any thoughts much appreciated:) Thanks.
Fenland_sunset.jpg
Taken with a Nikon D50, 55-200mm lens at 95mm, f/22, 0.5 sec SS. I have increased the saturation in the sky and water in PS and darkened the highlights a little. Any thoughts much appreciated:) Thanks.
Fenland_sunset.jpg
More practice needed but learning all the time!:rofl
Nikon D50, 18mm-55mm, 55mm-200mm, 50mm f/1.8, SB800, LowePro Slingshot 200AW and other bits!
Nikon D50, 18mm-55mm, 55mm-200mm, 50mm f/1.8, SB800, LowePro Slingshot 200AW and other bits!
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The colors are beautiful!
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Thanks for quick response. Soft focus...what do I do about that?! I used a tripod and shot at f/22 which I was hopoing would render everything quite sharply. I also shot in RAW so I could check the WB and exposure afterwards. This is about the limit of my understanding! Picture looks sharper on the original rather than this reduced image so could just be that I guess...
Nikon D50, 18mm-55mm, 55mm-200mm, 50mm f/1.8, SB800, LowePro Slingshot 200AW and other bits!
There are other ways of sharpening photos, and I'd love to hear from others in the forum, but this one has worked nicely for me recently.
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Many thanks for this - I'll store it for future images:) I'm guessing 122 views and only 2 posts gives me a certain amount of feedback too:) Thanks again
Nikon D50, 18mm-55mm, 55mm-200mm, 50mm f/1.8, SB800, LowePro Slingshot 200AW and other bits!
Is the lens stabilized? If stabilization was on and you were on a tripod that can actually introduce vibration into the picture as the camera tried to remove jitter that isn't there.
Just some thoughts.
The colors are good and you may get a little more detail in the sky by using an exposure gradient there.
Website: Tom Price Photography
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Thanks for this info - think it may explain a few things! I'm not sure how to find out what the minimum recommended aperture is for the 18-55mm kit lens (I'll look into it) but have been cranking up to f/20+ on landscape shots in the hope of rendering everything in fine detail (currently trying to get a handle on DoF!!). Will try some more at f/13. I was mounted on a tripod but with no shutter release was holding down the button for 3 shots and then using the middle one in the hope of reducing instability (no built in stabilisation). More practice needed but learning all the time!
Nikon D50, 18mm-55mm, 55mm-200mm, 50mm f/1.8, SB800, LowePro Slingshot 200AW and other bits!
I'll comment on that last part. A little tip I use that works great (to cheap and lazy to spring for a shutter release). Use the self timer. Also, use the mirror lockup and timer. Keeps your hands off the camera, the mirror lockup prevents the vibration from the lens slap up an down (just getting the downstroke on mirror lockup).
Mahesh
http://www.StarvingPhotographer.com
Good idea thank you. Will try that
Nikon D50, 18mm-55mm, 55mm-200mm, 50mm f/1.8, SB800, LowePro Slingshot 200AW and other bits!
Thank you. That was the bit I had to tweak a little in PS as the sun was just a little too low in the sky (was hoping I hadn't overcooked it!!)
Nikon D50, 18mm-55mm, 55mm-200mm, 50mm f/1.8, SB800, LowePro Slingshot 200AW and other bits!
Most threads seem to get far more views than comments. It's usually difficult to draw any real conclusions based on those stats. I wouldn't take the lack of comments to heart (though I will quickly agree it can be very frustrating!).
Can your D50 use the same infared remote that the D90 uses? If so, they're less than twenty bucks (for the one from Nikon). There's a third-party brand on Amazon that says it works with the D50 and is less than ten dollars.
Cheap investment for taking camera shake out of the equation...
Also, the curve of the water grabs my eye and shoves it out the left side of the picture. The water appears to go around a turn to the right, but you can't see it from the spot the picture was taken.
As a result, my eye is pulled away from the sunset spot instead of being lead right into it. Can you shoot that spot again from somewhere that will let you see at least part way around the bend to the right? Just enough to push the eye back towards the sunset instead of off the left side of the picture.
My compositions are usually weak so take the above with a grain of salt. I've been trying to study other pictures to see what makes them work (or not work) for me in hopes of improving.
Good luck and keep posting…looks like a pretty area.
Thanks for the re-assurance - I have been known to get a little paranoid from time to time:D I'm also new to using forums so am learning 'netiquette' as I go too:) Yes, the D50 can use an infra-red remote (although the sensor is annoyingly placed on the front of the camera!) but I think one of my children may have found an alternative use for it . Will invest in another ASAP. Thanks again
Nikon D50, 18mm-55mm, 55mm-200mm, 50mm f/1.8, SB800, LowePro Slingshot 200AW and other bits!
Good point well made Thwack. I could actually feel something wrong with the composition but couldn't pin down what. I'll have a go at the rule of thirds crop you suggested but I actually think you've hit the nail on the head with the direction of the meander. I pass thi spot on my way home from work every day so will wait for a decent sunset and have another go. I don't think I can get the meander in from as high a vantage point as that's on a bridge but I should be able to get a good compromise instead. Thanks for the suggestion (and hopefully watch this space!).
Nikon D50, 18mm-55mm, 55mm-200mm, 50mm f/1.8, SB800, LowePro Slingshot 200AW and other bits!
I'm looking forward to the re-shoot. Good luck!