Wedding couple in front Fireworks
Hi Everyone,
I am new to this forum.
I have a wedding where the bride is surprising the groom with fireworks.
I have never photographed fireworks with a bride and groom.
I would like to see the bride and groom as well as the fireworks.
Any tips?
I am new to this forum.
I have a wedding where the bride is surprising the groom with fireworks.
I have never photographed fireworks with a bride and groom.
I would like to see the bride and groom as well as the fireworks.
Any tips?
0
Comments
To get the fireworks - I've never done this, but I know that google is your friend - a lot of folks have done this an posted results and techniques.
The second photo - the couple. If there is light around, it will illuminate your couple for you. You just have to caution them not to move too much. Of course, you life will be easier if they (the couple) are not lit by house lights or something; in which case you can just pop a flash at either the start or the end of the exposure. Depending on the color of the ambient light, I think you may want to look into gelling your flash a bit - but that's a whole other discussion.
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Thank you Scott,
I was thinking along those lines.
Gail
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Cheat. Shoot the fireworks in the sky with nothing else in the frame. Shoot the couple against a black background. Photochop. This way gives you tons of options and a solid backup plan - you might not even tell the couple this is your plan.
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You will want a slow exposure, so when the fireworks explodes, release the flash (or use an LED 8000K flashlight) to expose the couple..
Or shoot in rear curtain sync?
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it is necessary to let the firework "bloom" and to catch more than one at a time is a nice touch.
This is actually a 20 second exposure I hand held (I was laying on the ground).
So anywho that is how you shoot the fireworks if they are a big professional production. If they are backyard fireworks YMMV. Why? Because most backyard fireworks burn out quicker, and the amateur pyros people put a long time between shots.
Now on to the people. People...can not stand still, check out people in church...like amber waves of grain. People move....a lot even when you tell them to stand still. That is why civil war era portraits have freaky eyes, and why you should NOT try to light paint them with a flashlight.
You are going to want to shoot the fireworks at low ISO (100-200) unless it is PITCH black out with NO ambient light. Now here is the key and why this task may be easier than you ever thought, a flash is momentary, it freezes action. Set your camera on a tripod ISO 100 for 5 seconds to start. Open the shutter when you here the shell go off or when you here more than one. Tell your couple ahead of time to try to stand still. Count to 3 and then manually discharge a hand held flash or speed light at full power. You can try moving away from the camera, experiment but make sure that you are aiming at them and firing just before the shutter closes. You can do a lot in 5 seconds. Check you exposure if you are weak run closer, if you are hot turn down or backup...because you'll be shooting at ISO 100 in the dark...chances are you will NOT be too heavy. So why at the end of the exposure? You are manually slow syncing, very little pre flash movement of the subject will be recorded. The key is to get them to stand as slow as you possibly can and get the flash on them well. So the more complex way? Same thing but with 2-3 strobes and a radio trigger. Using/experimenting with gridding your flash to make a spot light can make very cool results too....Make sure you get quality fireworks shots without them, and dark background portraits...and if all else fails...there is always photoshop.
Thank you all for you advice on the wedding/firework shots.
You have all given me very useful information.
Your f/stop will control the flash intensity while the shutter speed will control the intensity of the fireworks.
Generally commercial fireworks need about an f/8 exposure. If you set your camera to manual f/8 with shutter speed at a fairly long duration. probably a couple of seconds. With the flash set on ETTL (Evaluative Through the lens metering for Canon - I am not sure what other manufacturers call it.) you should get a fairly decent exposure. It would probably be best to use second curtain sync, if your camera has this capability.
If your couple is in a dark area and doesn't have much ambient light on them, the short flash duration will freeze any slight motion and the longer exposure will allow the fireworks to register. Hit the shutter release (best to use a remote release) as soon as the fireworks bursts.
You may need to dial down your flash exposure to a -1 or -2 stops.
You will need to place yourself and your couple in position so that the fireworks are to their rear.
Use your flash to expose for the people in the foreground; and definitely use a slow(er) rear curtain sync to expose properly for the fireworks in the background.
Exactly my thoughts...set the shutter speed, f-stop, and low ISO for the fireworks, then set your flash for rear curtain and let the iTTL, eTTL, or whatever fire the flash and capture the correct exposure for the couple in the foreground. You could and maybe should move your flash off the camera and shoot in commander mode, Nikon, so that you get some nice lighting on your subjects.
Here's a link, with another technique, with pictures.
http://neilvn.com/tangents/2007/06/14/shooting-technique-flash-fireworks/
Hope this helps.
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This is very helpful.
Hold the flash in your hand and while the shutter is open, press the button on the flash. You can move away from the camera since it's controlled by timer and light the bride and groom from all kinds of different angles for dramatic effects.
While we were shooting the fireworks, the primary photographer's flash died. I'm not sure what her technique was but I told her to set her camera to a similar setting as mine and she was able to use the same hand held flash pulse for her own work. She was nikon and I am canon, but that doesn't matter.
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Below is all fake just for fun. I hope yours turn out great. I did tone down the bride and groom to make it look more real like. I think you should under expose the B.G. or your real photo may look fake. Fireworks were done at f6.7 to f16 from 3 to 6 seconds, watch your ambient light and movement. If you use off camera flash you will still have to have fill in the shadows if it is very dark.
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