combo 7D + 100mm macro + ring flash

DeVerm

Hi,

I recently got the ring flash and the adapter to mount it on the new 100mm macro and have been playing with it. I am wondering if I am alone or are there others with this setup?

If so, my first question would be how to use the "lamps" on the flash (not the flash itself, the other two lights).

I am making photo's with this combo and it's so easy that I have the feeling something must be wrong. It almost feels like I am cheating. I also read about others making complicated flash systems for macro to get what they want... so what's wrong with the ring flash according to them?

Just trying to understand my new flash...

thanks,
Nick.

ziggy53

The Canon Macro Ring Lite (MR-14EX) and Canon Macro Twin Lite (MT-24EX) are both valid for macro applications and both provide somewhat different effects.

Many people already have compact speedlights and want to use them for macro applications. There are all sorts of inventive ways to use different lights in a macro application.

I wouldn't necessarily declare any lighting system as absolutely best for all applications, but the commercial ring lights are awfully easy to use and I suspect that lends to their popularity.

If you have the MR-14EX it has some incandescent lights you may use for composition and focus acquisition in low-light situations. They are not required in good light and if you don't need them.

DeVerm

Hi Ziggy,

yes, it is the MR-14EX. I am trying to find the best/easiest way to use it in the combination with lens and body described.

I should have added that I am using a tripod for my tests. Right now, I am testing on a stationary subject and this is what I found:

Camera settings: aperture priority, flash enable and allow long exposure so that the background is exposed properly too, manual focus and live view.

Next, I switch on the 2 little lamps on the MR-14 and zoom the camera LCD in to 10x so that I can adjust focus better. It was dark so I just used the lamps to see good enough for manual focus.
Next, I adjusted aperture to get the DOF I want (I tested for the full range of the lens, up to f/32) and noticed that the camera selects an 6 or 8 second exposure with that. The smaller the aperture, the more power released by the flash.
Next, I assume that the mirror is already lifted in live view so I just took the shot using the remote switch.

I am pleased with the results but I never used the setup before and am wondering if I am on the right path. What would you do different? I don't see any advantage in using AF here?

There's one thing I missed that I know of... I should have put that blind onto the viewfinder I think. Is that needed in low light when using flash?

I tried the above in a tethered setup with the EOS utility which makes it very convenient when the camera is in a very low position.

Next will be moving subjects and that obviously requires different settings. I think I would need to program the camera to limit exposure in Av mode to 1/60th second to freeze the action or go to full manual (I want to be in charge of aperture). That would lead to using a 2nd flash for the background.
And that brings me to focus. I am thinking to use manual focus for one particular spot while using a small aperture, and time the shot with the critter walking into that spot (easy for some situations, impossible for other situations). I think the tripod makes the use of AF difficult in this situation.

So, when I have no way of knowing where a moving subject is going, I think I will need to shoot without the tripod, or are there tricks?

I am very curious how others do this.

thanks,
Nick.

ziggy53

The best technique is the one that works for your application and needs.

I think you will find that your technique varies a little depending on whether you need a specific magnification or whether you need to frame a specific scene or view.

Do experiment with the ability of the MR-14EX to allow different ratios between the 2 flashes and also rotate the ring as necessary. Varying these things will add some directionality to the light and potentially some added depth to the shapes in the scene.

Experiment with diffusion material in front of the flashes if you find the light is a little too hard and the shadows too defined.

Manual focus is indeed often the best approach for macro applications, and AF for most other applications with more distant subjects.

If you do a lot of macro work, a "macro focusing rail" may be helpful for static subjects.

SittingElf

DeVerm wrote:

Hi Ziggy,

yes, it is the MR-14EX. I am trying to find the best/easiest way to use it in the combination with lens and body described.

I should have added that I am using a tripod for my tests. Right now, I am testing on a stationary subject and this is what I found:

Nick.

I am also experimenting with both the MR-14EX and the MT-24EX flashes using both the new 100mm L Macro and the 65mm 1-5x lenses.

What has helped me for focusing is carrying a small, high-power LED flashlight that I handhold on my subject while focusing. Makes a huge deal with the 65mm which is a manual focus only (I use a rail on my tripod).

The other thing I use is a Aputure Gigtube (www.aputure.com available at Adorama) which is an off camera LCD viewer and remote shutter switch.

These two tricks have really improved my keepers.

Cheers

DeVerm

ziggy53 wrote:

Do experiment with the ability of the MR-14EX to allow different ratios between the 2 flashes and also rotate the ring as necessary. Varying these things will add some directionality to the light and potentially some added depth to the shapes in the scene.

Yes, I must definitely work on that. Rotating didn't come up in my mind yet, great!

Experiment with diffusion material in front of the flashes if you find the light is a little too hard and the shadows too defined.

I was expecting that hard light from the flash would be my biggest problem to deal with but I am stunned with the results I get with just the plain flash. I don't think I'll ever need more than a little flash exposure compensation but I didn't even touch that yet.

thanks,
Nick.

DeVerm

SittingElf wrote:

I am also experimenting with both the MR-14EX and the MT-24EX flashes using both the new 100mm L Macro and the 65mm 1-5x lenses.

What has helped me for focusing is carrying a small, high-power LED flashlight that I handhold on my subject while focusing. Makes a huge deal with the 65mm which is a manual focus only (I use a rail on my tripod).

The other thing I use is a Aputure Gigtube (www.aputure.com available at Adorama) which is an off camera LCD viewer and remote shutter switch.

These two tricks have really improved my keepers.

Cheers

Hi SittingElf,

Nice to find someone who's doing the same tests ;-) I always used a LED flashlight but now used the MR-14 lights instead and that works great and gives me one hand extra. I even used a head-light (strapped to my head) before ;-)

I didn't know about this Gigtube... it is obviously much easier to handle than a laptop but can you do all the controls with it? how about remote manual focus?
I got myself a 13" MacBook pro for this and will take it into the field for macro work. If it works for me I'll keep it at that but if not, I know now that there are more options available, thanks!

I think we can expect more options using Apple iPhone and the new iPad or similar devices.

What are your findings comparing the MR-14 with the MT-24?

cheers,
Nick.