I am trying to setup new studio lights (recently bought) and I am suppose to set know the flash synchronisation speed of my camera. I have an olympus e3. Can anyone tell me what it is? Thanks.
I use an E-510 and my flashes are all manual. I can get up to 1/320. After that, the shutter blocks out part of the frame. When I use flash, I don't need to go faster than 1/250 even in sports.
That's only for a connected, dedicated flash, not studio lights or either "auto" or "manual" compact hot shoe flashes.
Well, I have the new PocketWizard ControlTL triggers (MiniTT1 and FlexTT5) which are capable of wireless high-speed-sync for either my remote 430EX IIs or AlienBees.
Outdoors, it's nice to be able to use high-speed shutter to kill some or all of the ambient light (particularly harsh mid-day sun) and then illuminate the subject via the strobe(s) for some dramatic effect.
I have Buff's Vagabond portable battery system, so I can take my AlienBee unit outside for environmental portraiture (beach, forest, etc).
Well, I have the new PocketWizard ControlTL triggers (MiniTT1 and FlexTT5) which are capable of wireless high-speed-sync for either my remote 430EX IIs or AlienBees.
Outdoors, it's nice to be able to use high-speed shutter to kill some or all of the ambient light (particularly harsh mid-day sun) and then illuminate the subject via the strobe(s) for some dramatic effect.
I have Buff's Vagabond portable battery system, so I can take my AlienBee unit outside for environmental portraiture (beach, forest, etc).
Very true the HSS on the ABs is a great addition - but the OP wasn't mentioning that
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Looks like 1/250
Link to my Smugmug site
ah ha - that's why when I am use shutter priority with my flash unit on the camera the speed won't exceed 1/250. Thanks
http://www.olympus.com.au/component/option,com_product/id,276/task,detail/Itemid,69/
I don't know where to enable it on your camera, but you should check into it.
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
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http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
That's only for a connected, dedicated flash, not studio lights or either "auto" or "manual" compact hot shoe flashes.
For studio lights it will be the normal flash sync or slower. I commonly use 1/125th for the most consistent results with studio strobes.
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When using strobes your camera will not detect the lights when using SS mode. You MUST shoot in manual mode - you have no choice.
Shutter speed has no effect on the flash exposure. SS controls ambient lightso you want a fast enough SS just to block out any ambient light.
Set your aperture to f8, ISO 100 and SS at 1/125 and move the power of your main light up/down until you get a correct exposure.
A light meter is a big help when using two or more lights.
Well, I have the new PocketWizard ControlTL triggers (MiniTT1 and FlexTT5) which are capable of wireless high-speed-sync for either my remote 430EX IIs or AlienBees.
Outdoors, it's nice to be able to use high-speed shutter to kill some or all of the ambient light (particularly harsh mid-day sun) and then illuminate the subject via the strobe(s) for some dramatic effect.
I have Buff's Vagabond portable battery system, so I can take my AlienBee unit outside for environmental portraiture (beach, forest, etc).
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
Very true the HSS on the ABs is a great addition - but the OP wasn't mentioning that