Live Oak in Bluebonnet Field
redleash
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I saw this tree and loved it! I plan to go back and shoot it again, as there are more bluebonnets out just since Friday. Is there anything I could/should do to improve this shot? I'm thinking it might be a wall-hanger.
Lauren
Lauren
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No matter how you cut it, shooting at a time other than between 10:00A and 2:00PM can only help the shot in that it will add a lot of depth. And do use a CP - that will help with the saturation and seperation.
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Then you will have a carpet of blue leading up to the tree.
Take it very early or very late in the day, this looks like high noon light.
Get closer and put the tree in the bottom/middle of the frame not the top, with the bottom of the frame being the carpet of flowers, then just a little sky above and in some space to the right of the tree hopefully with some nice white clouds.
Lots of potential with this one.
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Watch for more shots tomorrow!
Lauren
Lauren Blackwell
www.redleashphoto.com
www.aaroncowanphotos.com
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I had a tough time getting much lower in the shot because of the fence and berm. I did manage to get a little more blue and less dirt, and fewer clouds. Didn't notice the foreground branch until I saw it on the screen. When I go back I will look more carefully.
1.
Here is another shot from yesterday, sort of in between the original and the lower angle shot.
2.
Any thoughts on these versions?
Lauren Blackwell
www.redleashphoto.com
Since you are planning on going back.... do you have a circular polarizer filter (a CP)? If you are shooting to either your left or your right (i.e., you are shooting approx 90° from the sun) a CP can really help out the clouds. It can also add a bit of richness to the colors of the flowers and foliage.
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On the subject of filters, is this the type of shot and time of day you would use a grad ND? I'm planning to buy one but am just wondering if it would be useful in this type of situation.
Thanks for your comments and help. More to come from this tree . . . .
Lauren Blackwell
www.redleashphoto.com
But, they are usually only useful when the division between the bright and dark areas are something of a straight line and there is nothing from one region intruding into the other. For example, if you have power poles (or trees) that start in the foreground and rise up into the sky - not going to work so well as the GND will darken the tree too much and it will look a bit strange.
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Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
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2nd'ed.
Scott - Thanks for the GND info, it's helpful!
Lauren Blackwell
www.redleashphoto.com
Take just a very small crop off the bottom.
Very nice photo.
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More to come soon--
Lauren Blackwell
www.redleashphoto.com