Macro capable... what does it mean?
PilotBrad
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I was perusing the interwebs today and came across something where it said my current 17-55 f2.8 lens is not "macro capable", however I was surprised to see that my old 18-55 f3.5-5.6 kit lens was stated to be "capable".
I'm learning, and while I vaguely understand the concepts of magnification and close focusing distance, what would make one lens macro capable and another somewhat similar lens not?
I'm learning, and while I vaguely understand the concepts of magnification and close focusing distance, what would make one lens macro capable and another somewhat similar lens not?
Brad
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probably just a marketing / selling point.
on crop sensor canon body x1 life size 22mm fills the width of the frame, this is true macro.
a set of kenko extension tubes to increase magnification would work on any lens, but focus distance would be quite short.
for this shot i used 18-55 standard zoom at its 50mm position with a 12mm extension tube added, focus distance about 4 inch
phil
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I read it on wikipedia (here and here), which doesn't necessarily mean it is accurate, but I did find it interesting.
I know it's not a macro lense, but I've been trying some close-up flower shots with the 17-55. I'm just not having much luck. I can't get close enough and the images are really lousy even though I've tried in both AF and MF modes. I got good results with the 18-55 on my Rebel, but I suspect it is because the close focus distance was shorter and the magnification greater on that lens (compared to the 17-55).
At first I thought I was having a problem with the 17-55 lens, but as I experiment and learn I think I was just asking it to do things it's not intended for or capable or of doing.
I'll give the extension tube thingy a shot.
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The 17-55 has a max magnification of .17 @ 55mm. Because of the relatively low magnification, I was pushing in right up to the close focusing distance of ~14 in, which I think then led me to run into DoF limitations.
Ironically, the 18-55 has a max mag of .34 @ 55mm and a close focus of ~10in, which gave me me double the magnification AND allowed me to get in closer, thereby increasing the magnification effect even more. This explains, at least partly, why I had been getting better results with this lens.
The moral of the story for me is that I really do need to understand the capabilities of my equipment.
So with the 17-55 maybe I'll just have to stick to big sunflowers.
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I have Kenkos which allow AF if required however if you're really wanting to try them out and minimise outlay, you can pick 'em up on the likes of Ebay for under $20 but would not have AF ability.
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Nick
not just you. best results will be manual focus. I think most macro shooters do this anyway. They set the focus where it is needed then slowly rock back and forth or try to stay steady and tweak the focus ring manually.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
Brian v.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/
http://www.lordv.smugmug.com/
You can get around it with tubes that don't have that, on Canon lenses anyway, by holding the DoF preview button down while you take the lens off, and it'll keep the aperture closed down to whatever you've got it set to. You'll lose brightness in the viewfinder this way, but probably better than trying to shoot wide-open all the time.
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