Different types of metering

enthusiast

I'm new to digital SLR cameras, and am at a loss as to what type of meter is best to use. My camera has "evaluative metering, "partial metering," "spot metering" and "Center-weighted average metering."

I've seem some information saying that, for example, evaluative is good for scenes with both bright and dark areas, whereas spot is good for precision.

I guess my question is why you wouldn't always want precision.

I'm going to yosemite national park in a few weeks, and would love any suggestions as to what I should be using.

Thankyou!

Tember

408Views

The answer to your question is it depends. A scene that's metered in "spot" will be correctly exposed for the place you pointed the meter and most of the rest of it could be under or over exposed where as evaluative metering mode will give you a more even exposure across the image. Center weighted average will be similar to evaluative with a bias toward what is in the center of the image.

I would suggest using evaluative metering until you have a chance to learn how and when to use other modes.

pathfinder

enthusiast wrote: »

I'm new to digital SLR cameras, and am at a loss as to what type of meter is best to use. My camera has "evaluative metering, "partial metering," "spot metering" and "Center-weighted average metering."

Tember

Tember, each type of metering can be useful for specific purposes, or specific photographic needs. A sledge hammer and a tack hammer are both tools, but one may be better for a specific task than another.

Spot metering can allow precise exposure for a specific area, but MAY contribute to an incorrect exposure in other parts of the image if the shooter does not understand how reflected light meters work. Some folks prefer "center weighted average" and others may prefer 'evaluative metering" for general metering. Take a few moments to try to understand what each tool is about, and try using it for a day.

I use evaluative metering on my Canon cameras 95% of the time. But I tend to shoot in Manual mode, and only finally evaluate my exposure by chimping my histogram set to display in RGB, so that I can verify a full range of exposure ( without any blown highlights ) in each of the three color channels of my sensor.

As a matter of fact, one can shoot out of doors in sunlight without a meter and do a rather good job of exposure as I pointed out here - http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=30235

You may think that not using a meter when you have one built in on your new camera is foolish, but it is always a good idea to have an estimate of the correct exposure to compare with your meter reading.

I would suggest you get a Kodak step grey scale ( http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/26662-REG/Kodak_1527654_Color_Separation_Guide_and.html ) and learn to shoot it so that you can see all of the steps of the grey scale in your image, and the middle scale is in the middle of your histogram. When you can do that, you will have your exposure nailed! Foe example, a spot meter reading on the middle grey step should give you a histogram of your exposure with all three channels dead centered in the middle of your RGB histogram.

JohnBiggs

If you aim your 'spot' meter at something light, your image will under expose. If you aim at something dark it will over expose. It's a pain as you will have to always judge what to aim at that is neither light or dark.

BTW: I just use manual. Take a guess, snap, usually within a stop (not that hard to do actually) then adjust.

Desmond

I did a blog on metering modes that may help shed some light on the subject for you .