Landscapes:: Getting them Right.

SimplyShane

I'll keep this brief.

With every camera I have owned, I've had great difficulty in capturing landscapes with the proper exposure.

It's either the sky is too bright, or the ground is too dark. Never a satisfying mix. Seems I have to sacrifice one or the other.

My question:: How do I get around this? Is the answer found in layers? Is it found in masks? Is it HDR?

What do you guys do to handle this issue?? :dunno


Thanks for reading.
-Shane

malch

I can think of three classic techniques for dealing with such challenges:

1. Wait for softer or more even light.

2. Invest in a graduated neutral density (grad ND) filter. However, they are not terribly easy or convenient to use so be prepared for some hassle and a learning curve. Specifically, I'd look at a Lee filter holder and the HITECH filters.

3. Multiple exposures and some kind of exposure blending/HDR technique in post-processing. That can get tricky if there's movement in the scene. Even foliage swaying in the wind can be an issue although there are some techniques for dealing with that. Moving water can be an issue or not depending on the desired effect.

astrostu

Malch said the two I was going to suggest -- In the past, I think people have generally used the graduated ND filters for this. I, personally, with a fast computer and software that automates it, stick with doing HDRs and panoramic HDRs. I scan through the entire scene I want to capture and look at my meter and how far it would be over- or under-exposed, adjust the shutter so that it's even on both sides, and then bracket to do a 3-shot HDR with that ±EV.

SimplyShane

astrostu wrote: »

Malch said the two I was going to suggest -- In the past, I think people have generally used the graduated ND filters for this. I, personally, with a fast computer and software that automates it, stick with doing HDRs and panoramic HDRs. I scan through the entire scene I want to capture and look at my meter and how far it would be over- or under-exposed, adjust the shutter so that it's even on both sides, and then bracket to do a 3-shot HDR with that ±EV.

Two questions::

1. How do I bracket in-camera? Can I make my camera do that for me automatically?

2. What software do you use for your panoramas?? (That's unrelated to the original topic, but oh well! :-P)

Scott_Quier

SimplyShane wrote: »

Two questions::

1. How do I bracket in-camera? Can I make my camera do that for me automatically?

Don't know. What camera do you have? Have you read your owner's manual? It will show you how to do it if, indeed, your camera can. If it won't do it automatically for you:

• Mount your camera on a tripod
• Select your "perfect" exposure (ISO, aperture, shutter speed)
• Shoot it
• Increase your shutter speed by 1 (or two or three ) stops and shoot it
• Now, decrease your shutter speed to 1 (or .... ) slower than your "perfect" exposure

You now have a three exposure bracket. You can repeat the last two steps that much further from the "perfect" exposure to get a 5-exposure bracket.

You don't want to change the exposure by changing the aperture. This will lead to changes in the DOF, making an HDR merge a bit difficult.

Shooting moving water, I think varying the ISO will do the job - thus keeping the texture of the water consistant. Like I said, I think this will work - I've not yet tried it.

SimplyShane wrote: »

2. What software do you use for your panoramas?? (That's unrelated to the original topic, but oh well! :-P)

I use Photoshop CS4. It usually works quite well - though I've recently had a couple of situation where it's gone off the deep end. I've yet to be able to explain it or to even adequately characterize the behavior.

HarlanBear

Shane,

As malch said here, the traditional way to handle this with a single image is the use of graduated Neutral Density filters (ND filters) which lower the brightness of a portion of the image, usually the sky or top of the scene. These are often rectangular fiters which are darker at the top of the filter by 1 stop, 2 stops, etc. The filter, and I use HITECH filters, is held in place with a frame that screws on to the front of the lens. The filter is then lowered into the frame until you see that the shaded part of the filter is blocking the brighter part of the image and stops at the horizon line between the landscape area and the sky. It does take some getting used to, but is not that big a deal. And it is best done with a tripod, though I sometimes shoot this way hand-held. Just takes some pratice.

Another way is to expose three or more images by bracketing as also mentioned here. Then combine those images in Photoshop or whatever and usie layer masks. This technique should certainly be done using a tripod as well as a shutter release cable or remote so the shot is steady. And yes, with modern day (D)SLRs you can set-up bracketing in camera and the bracketing will take place as you fire off the series of shots, be it three shots or more. This will make the series move faster and keep you from having to maually change the exposure time which may move the camera slightly. I don't know what camera you are using, but you should consult your camera manual or on-line info about that camera to see how to set it up bracketing in your camera. But in any case, the camera should automatically expose at 0, +1, -1, etc., depending on how you set it up.

The basis for all of these is that the camera does not have as dynamic a range of exposure as your eye and you need to compensate for the limited range of a camera. However you do it, I think that once you try these different techniques, you will see a great improvement to your landscapes shots. And besides, it is a lot of fun and gives you better control of the final results.

Hope this helps.

astrostu

SimplyShane wrote: »

Two questions::

1. How do I bracket in-camera? Can I make my camera do that for me automatically?

2. What software do you use for your panoramas?? (That's unrelated to the original topic, but oh well! :-P)

As Scott said, read your camera manual for bracketing. For panorama software, I've fallen in love with AutoPano Pro. It's not free, though.

kevincaophotography

I was in the same boat as you for quite some time. It's a bit difficult shooting landscapes in mid-day. Usually it's too bright and just when you whip out your camera, the clouds seem to disappear. IF you can wait till sunset, or wake up early enough for sun rise, I find it easier to shoot when it's darker with a longer exposure. In my experience, overexposing your images a 1/2 stop or sometimes a full stop in darker situations is better. You get much less noise when you bring down the exposure PP as opposed to starting with an underexposed photo. This, more of less, serves as an ND filter. You definitely get more versatility and freedom with ND filters as you can shoot on your own time, not the "sun's time". If you can afford it, I'd recommend getting a lower-end set just to experiment with. Some people don't like to use them, and you might very well be one of them.

HDR (mixing layers: usually fore-, mid-, and background) is a great tool to learn about exposures and "teaches" you how to get closer to that "perfect" exposure next time. Good luck on your next shoot. Please post your results!