Portrait Lighting: Help! :-)
I'm wondering if someone could solve a mystery for me...I'm new to the whole studio lighting thing, so please bare with me. I'm testing for some portraits I'll be doing for our office staff and I seem to be having some issues...
Each time I fire a test shot, about 3 out of 5 shots, the flash does not fill the exposure - Maybe it's firing during the pre-flash? But I don't understand why 2 out of the 5 will expose the shot properly and I get the effect I'm going after? I've tried waiting different periods of time between exposures to see if recharge rates had anything to do with it, but the red lights come on 1-2 seconds after firing, so I'm thinking that's not the issue.
I've got some info below to help answer the techy side of things...Could it be the el-cheapo flash trigger I'm using just not firing properly?
Canon 30D
Manual Mode, 1/100 @ f/5.6, ISO 200
Cactus V4 Transmitter
70-200mm f.4 L
Master:
Camera right, sitter's left
580EX II, Manual Mode
Cactus V4 Receiver
1/2
105mm
shoot-through umbrella
Slave:
Camera left, sitter's right
Sigma EF-500 DG Super, Manual slave mode
1/2
105mm
shoot-through umbrella
*Edit to add* I'll try to update later with some sample shots of correct fires and misfires :-)
Each time I fire a test shot, about 3 out of 5 shots, the flash does not fill the exposure - Maybe it's firing during the pre-flash? But I don't understand why 2 out of the 5 will expose the shot properly and I get the effect I'm going after? I've tried waiting different periods of time between exposures to see if recharge rates had anything to do with it, but the red lights come on 1-2 seconds after firing, so I'm thinking that's not the issue.
I've got some info below to help answer the techy side of things...Could it be the el-cheapo flash trigger I'm using just not firing properly?
Canon 30D
Manual Mode, 1/100 @ f/5.6, ISO 200
Cactus V4 Transmitter
70-200mm f.4 L
Master:
Camera right, sitter's left
580EX II, Manual Mode
Cactus V4 Receiver
1/2
105mm
shoot-through umbrella
Slave:
Camera left, sitter's right
Sigma EF-500 DG Super, Manual slave mode
1/2
105mm
shoot-through umbrella
*Edit to add* I'll try to update later with some sample shots of correct fires and misfires :-)
0
Comments
- You may be waiting for the re-charge to light on one of the flashes, but it's not been long enough for both flashes
- Your triggers aren't getting the signal (pun intended ) so it's not tripping the flash(es).
I'll re-visit this when I see samples. Hope I can help.My Photos
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As far as power goes, I'm using freshly charged Eneloop AAs...580EX II is being powered by the Canon CP-E4.
Even with freshly charged batteries, you still need to wait for them to charge the capacitor in your flash. I suspect, as Scott suggested, you are not waiting long enough between your shots to fully charge your flashes. They are either not firing or firing at only partial power.
When I use my Nikon flashes off camera like you describe, I set them to emit an audible beep when the flash fires and then when it is fully charged and ready to refire. Can you do that with your Canon gear?
In the end, if you need rapid recycle time, there is no substitute for real studio strobes.
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Canon doesn't offer that option - Wish they did though! Nikon really has the upper hand on the speedlite studio style lighting...For Canon (and Sigma), a red indicator light will glow when the flash is fully recycled and ready to fire. The thing that confuses me though is that for each test exposure, I've made sure I saw that red light on both units before firing.
I was thinking about giving that a shot, if all else fails...Good idea :-)
I've fired some test shots just pointing the lens at my two lights though, and I see them both firing in the frame in my exposure. This was on a separate occasion, but it was the same setup...I'm not sure if that's a "sure-fire" professional method of testing your lighting setup, but those were taken hand-held and at a closer distance. Maybe the radio frequency on these cheap-o triggers are poor.
Thanks for the advice so far though everyone...It may take me until this afternoon to get some example shots up, and then maybe you all can better diagnose my lighting bugs
This is me, testing - That's my frustrated smile...Obviously I didn't comb my hair this morning :-P
My first victim, er, subject...
Luckily, casualties were limited to one...Tomorrow should be a few more for me to experiment on.
Setup/Location Shots:
Some of my thoughts....
(A) I think somehow a combination of the recycle and the trigger signal issues were to blame for the misfires...I'd post examples of those, but imagine the color black and there you go...
(B) I've got a fun little background garden area to play with...Am I focused too much on testing my lighting setup out and missing the better shot?
(C) On that same note, check out the groovy 80s style glass cube wall...How cool of a background would that make?! Or would my novice lighting experience just prove to fudge that photo-op even more? I was thinking I could put a blue-gelled flash on the back side and hit them from the front with a warm-tone gelled flash. Might go try some test shots later, after I get some actual "work" work done.
I appreciate the feedback - Feel free to tell me I'm a clutz or to just stop this silly attempt all together :-P I'm very grateful that I work with some wonderful and patient participants :-)
Though I'm not quite sure what look/lighting you were going for, I'm not a fan of this lighting effect. The shadow through the center of the face? If that's what you were going for, ignore the rest of this post. If not, continue reading....
I might suggest you take a quick look at some lighting tutorials and become familar with the classics (Loop lighting, Rembrandt lighting, cross lighting, paramount, short lighting, and broad lighting).
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I've looked around a bit on lighting setups, but could certainly stand to do a lot more homework.
In this particular setup, I was just trying to get the lighting even on both sides...But I'm sure another method would benefit me more here. IS there a name for what I've done, or is it simply a haphazard arrangement? :-P
I see what you mean about the shadow running through the center here though - There's no fill light in the front...A reflector under the face could possibly resolve that?
Maybe until I play with the various lighting setups some more, I should stick with the 580EX on-camera and trigger the Sigma for effect.
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
Went on the other side of the glass wall. 580EX II attached to camera and triggering the Sigma...I don't have a reflector at the moment, so I'm using the other umbrella as a make-shift.
Not crazy about the b/g and that big nasty flash glare...But I guess I could try the same approach in the other area...Just farting around here, but figured I'd share. Thanks :-)
Awesome! Thank you so much - Can't wait to try that out! :-)
Start with one light. Shoot it through your umbrella just to one side of your camera slightly above your subject. Try to get the catchlight at 10 or 2 o'clock. Get the umbrella as close as you can to your subject without being in view.
Voila! Nice and easy portrait. Want to make it more difficult? Try a reflector on the other side for some fill.
When you have mastered this, then add a second flash for some more challenging fun.
http://clearwaterphotography.smugmug.com/
Haha......Good question...
That's a good point...Perhaps I'm jumping the gun a bit. I bought these cheap triggers to practice on before I invest in another 580 and PWs/RPs, so I might as well get the basics down with one light before I start putting extra ones "in the picture"
The gist is to make it as simple as possible to get the effect you want.....another great read is Joe McNally's HotShoe Diaries......great info....
Rather than just "farting around", read up on the various classic lighting configurations (see my first post in this thread) and understand why the lighting configurations are producing the results they are. Getting a good foundation will vastly improve your chances whey you start getting creative.
You have a good start .... I just think you need to put a bit more time into the academics and than you'll be "hitting on all eight cylinders!"
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Art - Great book! Love it...I've been reading it over again and again these past few months...And I did move those lights closer to my subject, and the unit closer to the umbrella and got some much better results - Thanks!
I appreciate the crash course you all have given me to assist in getting these a little better and I'm certainly intrigued now to actually do the homework and get my hands dirty ;-)
Art, I'm missing something in the last statement here. I thought that if you move the umbrella close to the light source, the amount of the umbrella illuminated will drop and the umbrella becomes smaller (effectively) and thus harder. If you move the light too far away, you end up shooting light around the umbrella, and in the case of shoot-through, you have some spill coming forward that isn't diffuse. Am I misreading your last comment, or misunderstanding something about the relationship between the umbrella and the light source. I fully understand that having the umbrella close to the subject makes the light softer since you have a larger light source relative to the subject that way. Thanks.
Who is wise? He who learns from everyone.
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Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
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Thanks.
Who is wise? He who learns from everyone.
My SmugMug Site
You want the largest surface area light source you can afford. alos make sure your flash is set to the minimum zoom and is properly aimed at your umbrella to get maximum coverage
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
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