Tips for shooting a guerilla fashion event??

jasonstonejasonstone Registered Users Posts: 735 Major grins
edited May 22, 2010 in Technique
Hi there, I've got the chance to shoot a guerilla fashion event (not gorillas ;) )
Basically there's going to be some young models wearing a store's clothes and they're going around town in a limo and will get out adhoc and put on a small fashion parade - just on the street or maybe indoors etc.
I assume as this is all without permits it'll move pretty quick - so i need to get shots and get them rapidly!

I've been asked to cover the event (via a friend) but am concerned... my concerns are:

1. I "only" have a Nikon D80 and no 17-55 2.8 lens - so auto focus is not so fast, no great fps and no ultra fast wide zoom. I can solve this by borrowing a 17-55 2.8 lens but I'm wondering if it's worth borrowing a D700 and 24-70 2.8 or borrowing a mate's D300 and 17-55 2.8 (not Nikkor)

i do have a 70-200 f2.8 but i think that'll be too long for the crowds and situation

2. fill flash - i'm trying to get my head around using fill flash for this event - i'm thinking of running it in REAR mode (edit: I mean FP mode - woops) (SB-800) and use the diffusor dome on - pointing basically straight ahead - maybe 1 click up - to get bottom of flash on their faces

any ideas or suggestions or experience you could share with me to help out with this point? settings?

I was thinking of going Aperture mode (as i usually do) switching between wide open f2.8 or f8 for getting some crowd shots

and then using an ISO that's in the middle - say ISO400 on my D80 - to give me enough speed to work at with moving models

and then just set flash to -1EV for some fill light

and really should i be borrowing a faster camera/lens?? I'm thinking yes right now but....

any tips/tricks/suggestions would be MORE than welcome :)


Thanks in advance
Jase

Comments

  • jasonstonejasonstone Registered Users Posts: 735 Major grins
    edited May 20, 2010
    46 views but no suggestions?

    either I nailed it or else i'm venturing into unknown territory for dgrin users - which doesn't bode well for me mwink.gif
  • adbsgicomadbsgicom Registered Users Posts: 3,615 Major grins
    edited May 20, 2010
    Couple of things. First 46 hits is not much. There are many more readers than posters. Also 5 hours isn't much time for a post to be on the board.

    I have no idea about your camera or lens selection. I don't shoot Nikon. I've never done anything like what you are talking about about, so take this for what it is worth:

    Consider using manual mode on the camera. Since the metering of Av can get fooled by the garb and skin tone of the model or other changes in b/g, you may find that you are over/under exposed frame to frame. If the amount of light for a given series isn't changing much, get the exposure right in manual (if your time permits a couple of quick shots).

    -1 EV is just starting to be fill, you may want to back off more than that. Shoot some test shots if you can.

    Shoot RAW. It gives you more dynamic range to handle being a bit over exposed. Err toward slight over-exposure than under -- the noise is in the dark areas and amplifies if you need to boost exposure in post.

    Are the controls any different on the body you are thinking about borrowing? How about metering or AF selection? Just something to be mindful of so you are stumbling on a difference when you need to be quick.
    - Andrew

    Who is wise? He who learns from everyone.
    My SmugMug Site
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited May 20, 2010
    Jason, I shoot landscapes a lot more than people, so....

    I do think you will want a lens wider than 17mm on a crop body at least some of the time. And one longer than 50mm at times. If you can swing it, I would take two bodies - one with a real wide zoom ~ 12-24, and a 24-85 or thereabouts. I think you will find both lenses useful at times, and I doubt will not have time to swap between lenses with a single camera body

    Use a flash with a diffuser of some kind - Demb, Lumiquest, or at least a Stofen. If you have an assistant to act as a voice actuated light stand, consider a reflector as well. It is really nice to have a moveable wall ( with a constant color temperature ) to bounce flash off of when you are moving about.

    Sounds like this is going to be running and gunning with you having little to no say in where the models go, stand or pose?

    If you have control of where the models stands, move, etc lights on stands can add a lot, but not when running and gunning.

    I think more folks would choose to use Manual Mode for their camera than AV, but either will work in capable hands. If you choose to shoot Av, make sure the shutter speed does not drop to below hand holdable ranges. I agree with 2nd curtain flash, and high speed synch if you can do both. You will want to keep your shutter speed above 1/160th or so usually. This shoot occurring during noon hours, late afternoon, or after sunset?

    An assistant with a 42in reflector in white or zebra might pay real dividends if you are shooting in the daylight hours.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • jasonstonejasonstone Registered Users Posts: 735 Major grins
    edited May 21, 2010
    Thanks for the replies so far...

    Correct it'll be moving _real_ fast hence my reason to shoot Av mode not Manual (i switch between Av and M depending upon the shooting environment but am often in M) as I doubt I'll have time to line up the settings and chimp the LCD. Not to mention that I expect they'll be walking in and out of crowds and different areas so will likely change the settings constantly. Running and gunning as Pathfinder said...

    Will set for FP mode and -1EV for starters - have a Gary Fong Lightsphere cloud - and could use that tilted forward for a slightly warmer larger flash source

    I always shoot RAW... and if I rent the D700 i can pick it up 16:00 Friday so will have an evening to get used to it - i doubt it will be that much different as i won't need all the features on it - mainly the better quality, FX format and better autofocus/metering

    I'll have no choice on where the models will go or how they'll pose and doubt i'll have a chance to use reflectors as from what I understand it'll be get out, hit the area with an impromptu parade and then move on...

    i'll have to go out and do a few tests with my D80, 18-200 + SB-800 this weekend in advance preparation :)

    cheers all
  • WillCADWillCAD Registered Users Posts: 722 Major grins
    edited May 21, 2010
    Pathfinder brings up some great points. Two bodies with different lenses will give you more flexibility and allow you to quickly change focal lengths without changing lenses.

    If you can rent or borrow better gear than your own, particularly better glass, that can only help. You can carry your own gear as the backup camera.

    I recently bought a Canon 18-200IS (IS is Canon's version of VR), and I think it's a great walkaround lens, givint me wide-angle and a good zoom all in a single lens. Though my 18-200IS is not an L-series lens (Canon's pro glass), it is sharp as a tack, has no chromatic aberration I can see, and very little pincushion at the wide end; I'd certainly use it in a situation like you're facing. If your 18-200VR is comparable or better glass, I think it will be perfect, whether you mate it to your own camera or to a borrowed better camera.

    Practice, practice, practice! See if you can get a general idea of where the stops will be and scout as many of the actual locations as you can.
    What I said when I saw the Grand Canyon for the first time: "The wide ain't wide enough and the zoom don't zoom enough!"
  • jasonstonejasonstone Registered Users Posts: 735 Major grins
    edited May 21, 2010
    thanks Will for the reply - i have the Nikon equiv 18-200 but with aperture starting at f3.5 and f5.6 when zoomed out a bit it's just way to slow for a fast moving fashion shoot...

    given that it's going to be from 2-5pm and then 10pm-1am i'm going to need the fastest glass i can get!
    i'm borrowing a D700 and 24-70 f2.8 -> and hopefully with some big a55 bounce flash (maybe big reflector behind me) and ISO1600 or 3200 on the D700 I should get some shots during the evening

    easy it won't be - but guess it's sink or swim :)
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited May 21, 2010
    jasonstone wrote: »
    thanks Will for the reply - i have the Nikon equiv 18-200 but with aperture starting at f3.5 and f5.6 when zoomed out a bit it's just way to slow for a fast moving fashion shoot...

    given that it's going to be from 2-5pm and then 10pm-1am i'm going to need the fastest glass i can get!
    i'm borrowing a D700 and 24-70 f2.8 -> and hopefully with some big a55 bounce flash (maybe big reflector behind me) and ISO1600 or 3200 on the D700 I should get some shots during the evening
    easy it won't be - but guess it's sink or swim :)

    D700 ISO 1600 or 3200, wide aperture lenses f2.8 or even f1.4, with some bounce flash sounds like a great plan.

    Shoot in Manual mode with the flash in iTTL - this will let you expose the subjects correctly with the flash, and the backgrounds via ambient light at the level of YOUR choice. Av will try to expose the background by lengthening the shutter speed, and after dark, these will fall well past handholding speeds.

    If you can bounce your flash off a reflector behind you, or beside you, held by an assistant, you should be able to grab some great images! Your flash will have real punch at ISO 3200. You may need to use High Speed Synch or FP I think Nikon calls it. 2nd curtain synch as well.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • PhotosbyKWPhotosbyKW Registered Users Posts: 137 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2010
    pathfinder wrote: »
    D700 ISO 1600 or 3200, wide aperture lenses f2.8 or even f1.4, with some bounce flash sounds like a great plan.

    Shoot in Manual mode with the flash in iTTL - this will let you expose the subjects correctly with the flash, and the backgrounds via ambient light at the level of YOUR choice. Av will try to expose the background by lengthening the shutter speed, and after dark, these will fall well past handholding speeds.

    If you can bounce your flash off a reflector behind you, or beside you, held by an assistant, you should be able to grab some great images! Your flash will have real punch at ISO 3200. You may need to use High Speed Synch or FP I think Nikon calls it. 2nd curtain synch as well.


    Personally, depending on the time of day and lighting, I'd likely use both Manual and AV. I shoot Canon and my main camera (5DMKII) is so ISO friendly, that I can easilly keep my shutter speeds up, either way. I'd shoot FP and I'd also shoot on a flash bracket, with no modifier, but with a bounce card close at hand for the option. For Fashion typed shots, I'd prefer this setup, but for really close shots, I'd have the card to provide just a little bit of fill.

    A reflector would be nice, as would a small to medium scrim, but only if I could get someone to keep up with me and hold them. If not, then I'd leave them at home in fast moving shooting. Just a few thoughts.
    Consistantly Inconsistant.

    www.PhotosbyKW.smugmug.com
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