need help with bmx/ mtb shots.

photosbyjd2

Hey!
1st post here. also new to photography, Shooting with a NIKON D60| NIKON DX AF-S NIKKOR 18-55MM 1:3.5-5.6G |NIKON AF NIKKOR 70-300MM 1:-5.6G. That said i only use adobe lightroom(very basic stuff) . So I feel like my bmx pics are cool but i struggle with the crappy lighting, the races start just as the sun is setting and into the night(poor lighting) The mountain bike shots were mid day, good lighting.

PLEASE help me become better!


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www.photosbyjd2.com

Paintguy

I think I am in the same boat with you.. a big flash is next on my list.

Zerodog

You need a flash. But I do like the dark BMX ones a lot. They are nice as is. #6 is pretty cool.

The flash can make the action shots pop a bit more in full light. And give a cool effect when dark.

Not sure if the D60 does the HS sync mode. If it does, it will help you a lot with a compatible flash. You can then shoot with high shutter speeds and use the flash for fill in very bright light.

Other then that, a better body with higher ISO capability, and better f2.8 lenses help a lot too.

MtBikesAndtheRest

Hello

I do a lot of MTB shooting myself (http://photo.morgi.ch)
Before I even got a second lens I got a SB-900, it helps a lot during dusk and in the woods.
Also, the flash helps to "freeze" the action without making it look like a still shot. If you want to shoot pictures that look fast, the handlebars and the riders eyes should always be in focus, whilst the spokes and surroundings are motion-blurred (see: http://photo.morgi.ch/?p=305).
I like the silhouettes. You could improve #4 by clicking a tad earlier or later, when the rider is leaning inside the curves. That always adds some tension and makes the shot more interesting.
#3 could be a great shot if you' see more of the eyes. Fullface helmets and goggles will always make it difficult to see the rider's facial expression. I often set up the shot specifically so that I have the most light inside the helmet. Try this: (1 SB 900 to the left, approx. at bike height turned upwards and facing the rider)


In all my shots with the panning technique I prefocus. I decide where I want the shot to be, autofocus on a spot on the ground at the same distance, switch to manual and then as the rider comes I follow him with the lens until he reaches the spot - click - continue to pan. Needs a lot of practice but eventually makes for interesting, moving shots.
You can find more mtb-specifique photo tips here: http://sebrogers.typepad.com/seb_rogers_blog/technique/

Hope that helps for the start!
Linda

photosbyjd2

what flash will work for my camera? im a total rookie. i found this older flash , its cheap....( no job, damn economy) so im on a insanely tight budget


http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/pho/1762584052.html




EDIT... SO I DONT TINK IT WILL WORK?! recommendation?