Lens Filter?

Graham Cracker

I am doing a 5:00 wedding in South GA in 2 weeks and did some test shots with my daughter on location and the sun is potentially brutal. Can someone recommend a good filter that would give me enough f stops to be able to use my 2.8 at times. Beautiful location but the dress and Brides blode hair are killing me with the sunlight. I have been looking at the "Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo" but dont know if it is worth it or not. Oh BTW this is my first wedding. Thanks Patrick

Chris Geiger

For outdoor work, just use a polarizer filter. It will remove about 2 stops of light.

mmmatt

Chris Geiger wrote: »

For outdoor work, just use a polarizer filter. It will remove about 2 stops of light.

Actually it depends on the filter somewhat but I think most polorizers have a filter factor of 2-2.5 and that is closer to 1 stop... thats from memory and maybe someone can verify that, but I'm pretty sure that is acurate, but yeah a polorizer is a good call for a filter. Im not sure that will help you any if you are using flash though... it takes a stop away from flash and ambient so you are kinda back where you started. If ambient, then yes it helps for sure. If that isn't enough you can use a neutral density or a "stopdown" filter and those can be purchased at multiple filter factors. Just don't confuse "filter factor" with stops... there is a chart online somewhere I'm sure for you to calculate f-stops from filter factor... I can't remember exactly how it works, but I'm sure it is a simple google moment. You can stack filters too but you may get some vignetting and especially wide open. I haven't used a filter in that way since I was trying to do long exposures over water, but there may be an advantage I'm not aware of, other than the typical benefits of a polarizer or other filter.

Unless you are looking for slower shutter speeds or using flash, you should be able to just shoot a higher shutter speed and forgo the filter. Most digital bodies can shoot 1/8000 if I'm not mistaken. Sunny 16 rule states that in full sun, at f16 you take the shutter speed closest to your iso w/o going under, so you would have 1/250th at 200iso & f16. If you are lucky enough to be a canon shooter and can shoot iso 100, it is then 1/125th @ f16. So to interpolate at iso 200 you would be shooting 1/500th at f11, 1/1000 at f8, 1/2000th at f5.6, 1/4000th at f4, and 1/8000th at f2,8. Cut those all in half for iso 100. So don't throw an extra chunk of glass infront of your lense unless you have too or want a specific effect.

Matt

Graham Cracker

mmmatt wrote: »

Actually it depends on the filter somewhat but I think most polorizers have a filter factor of 2-2.5 and that is closer to 1 stop... thats from memory and maybe someone can verify that, but I'm pretty sure that is acurate, but yeah a polorizer is a good call for a filter. Im not sure that will help you any if you are using flash though... it takes a stop away from flash and ambient so you are kinda back where you started. If ambient, then yes it helps for sure. If that isn't enough you can use a neutral density or a "stopdown" filter and those can be purchased at multiple filter factors. Just don't confuse "filter factor" with stops... there is a chart online somewhere I'm sure for you to calculate f-stops from filter factor... I can't remember exactly how it works, but I'm sure it is a simple google moment. You can stack filters too but you may get some vignetting and especially wide open. I haven't used a filter in that way since I was trying to do long exposures over water, but there may be an advantage I'm not aware of, other than the typical benefits of a polarizer or other filter.

Unless you are looking for slower shutter speeds or using flash, you should be able to just shoot a higher shutter speed and forgo the filter. Most digital bodies can shoot 1/8000 if I'm not mistaken. Sunny 16 rule states that in full sun, at f16 you take the shutter speed closest to your iso w/o going under, so you would have 1/250th at 200iso & f16. If you are lucky enough to be a canon shooter and can shoot iso 100, it is then 1/125th @ f16. So to interpolate at iso 200 you would be shooting 1/500th at f11, 1/1000 at f8, 1/2000th at f5.6, 1/4000th at f4, and 1/8000th at f2,8. Cut those all in half for iso 100. So don't throw an extra chunk of glass infront of your lense unless you have too or want a specific effect.

Matt

Thanks, I will try that tonight as practice and see what I can get. I did get a polarizer and will try that as well. It is such a drastic contrast in "walking down the isle with her father" in the broad sunlight to the shade and linen draped cover they get married under. Feel like I need flash at beginning and end and not sure I can quickly turn it off and on but will try. Thanks for the input.

siberianrunner

Filter
I did some portraits in northern California a few weeks ago and struggled with intense sunlight even when using a polarizing filter. Planning to look at adding a couple of neutral density filters to my bag for next time. Might be worth looking at for your circumstance.

cr8ingwaves

mmatt, thanks for posting all of that.

Graham Cracker

siberianrunner wrote: »

I did some portraits in northern California a few weeks ago and struggled with intense sunlight even when using a polarizing filter. Planning to look at adding a couple of neutral density filters to my bag for next time. Might be worth looking at for your circumstance.

Was it all Sun or did you have some shade? That is my only concern using some neutral density filters is the rapid change from bright to shade. THanks for the input. Patrick