Dumb LR question

divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
edited June 17, 2010 in Finishing School
When you sync, how do you know which photo it's synching TO? Is it just the one which has had the most recent adjustments, or the first one you select, or....?

Just wondering. :hide

Comments

  • BradfordBennBradfordBenn Registered Users Posts: 2,506 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    My understanding is that t is synching from the "most selected" photo to the other one. Depending on your view, knowing which one is most selected will vary. For instance in the Library Module, you can see images with three different colors for the border, 1) Most selected (usually white), 2) Selected (usually lighter grey), 3) not selected (plain usual grey). I am doing this from memory so my colors might be off. But after you try selecting a few different pictures you should be able to see the indication. Typically the first one selected is the "most selected".
    -=Bradford

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  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    In Windows, whether you are selecting individual files (Ctrl) or a range (Shift) the first file you select will be the one to which the other files are synched.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited June 17, 2010
    divamum wrote: »
    When you sync, how do you know which photo it's synching TO? Is it just the one which has had the most recent adjustments, or the first one you select, or....?

    Just wondering. :hide


    Right click on the image you want to copy your settings from -> menu ->Develop Settings -> Copy Setting -> dialogue box of which settings to copy with the global settings already checkmarked -> hit the copy button.

    Now select the images you want the develop settings to be pasted onto - I usually click on one image and shift-click on the last one and they will all be highlighted. Now right click on the selected images, paste your develop settings, and watch them light up with your new develop settings one by one.

    Easy, peasy!

    I do this routinely for a series of images for a pano, for example, Diva.

    This can also be done in Adobe Camera Raw, but the exact steps involve slightly different buttons, but the effect is exactly the same.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    Icebear wrote: »
    In Windows, whether you are selecting individual files (Ctrl) or a range (Shift) the first file you select will be the one to which the other files are synched.

    Perfect! That's what I thought, but every once in a while it seemed that's not what happened (user error, no doubt) and I wasn't sure.

    Pathfinder, I usually just ctl+shift+c to copy the develop settings, but when I've tried to apply it to a batch (after having highlighted - hightlit? - the relevant shots, it would only apply it to the first one. I usually work in the develop module, so maybe that's why? I know you can only delete multiple files in Library.... ne_nau.gif
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited June 17, 2010
    I am in the Develop Panel when I do this, Diva. Not sure why you are being limited to only one file to paste the settings to. That has not been my experience.

    When using ctrl-Shift-C, are you getting a choice of what specific develop settings to copy? I wonder it this is significant.

    Try it the way I described, and see if you can't paste to a whole series of images at the same time.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    pathfinder wrote: »
    I am in the Develop Panel when I do this, Diva. Not sure why you are being limited to only one file to paste the settings to. That has not been my experience.

    When using ctrl-Shift-C, are you getting a choice of what specific develop settings to copy? I wonder it this is significant.

    Try it the way I described, and see if you can't paste to a whole series of images at the same time.

    Yup - if you do it with ctrl/shft/C you get the full selection dialog box and can choose which settings to apply. I'll play around with it and see if the menu approach lets multiple shots get the treatment.

    Tx!

    Oh, and PS: I'm still using the LR3 beta, but with every use I'm more impressed (and will be downloading the final version soon). Holy COW but it does some amazing things with sharpening+NR!!!
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited June 17, 2010
    I am beginning to work with LR3 too. Still not certain of the best way to go about noise reduction with it yet, but it is better than LR2 was, for sure.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    I'm finding that the HiRloA technique with sharpening works beautifully w/LR3, far more so than in other programs where I've tried it. (aside: I only know about that thanks to the threads where you and Rutt discussed it! thumb.gif) Add some liberally applied NR, and shots I would have thought were tossers (eg because I slightly underexposed in error and had to boost in post) look gorgeous. I'm certainly impressed with how it's handling 7d files, that's for sure! It's faster on my machine, too.
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited June 17, 2010
    Interesting.

    When I go the HiRLoa path, I invoke CS4 ( or now CS5 ) - mostly I suppose because thats how I have always done it, and Noiseware is one of the filters in my CS4. I will give your suggestion a try and see what I think. I am still a newbie at LR3/CS5 trying to feel my way along.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • colourboxcolourbox Registered Users Posts: 2,095 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    My understanding is that t is synching from the "most selected" photo to the other...Typically the first one selected is the "most selected".

    I stared at a LR3 dialog for a minute before understanding the terminology they're using, but figured out that they talk about "selected" and "active" images. You can have any number of "selected" images which are light gray, but only one will be the "active" (most selected) image which will be the lightest gray.

    The active image is the sync source, and the non-active but selected images are the sync destinations.
  • Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    just spent a few minutes searching for "HiRloA technique" and Dgrin search brings back only one result......this thread.......so I went to Google and tried there.....same results.......
    Please point me to the discussions between pathfiner and Rutt........ hoping there is a tute there or at least detailed instructions......thanx
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

  • W.W. WebsterW.W. Webster Registered Users Posts: 3,204 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    divamum wrote: »
    When you sync, how do you know which photo it's synching TO?
    It's syncing FROM the one, more brightly highlighted image in the grid, to the one or more less brightly highlighted images you have selected. deal.gif
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    i think it might be abbreviated hiloam? Perhaps Jim can find them - there are lots of them. I do know it stands for "high radius, low amount" ... and I'm impressed with how it looks in LR3 - more noticeable sharpening, but with far less artefacting to my eye. Perhaps the processing experts can chime in here to clarify far better than I can (being a total rookie at this kind of high end processing)
  • Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited June 17, 2010
    Ok so searched for High Radius Low amount sharpening and got tons of threads here on dgrin.
    Now to start sifting thru.....the first couple are probably what I want...1 is authored by Rutt

    Thanks
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited June 17, 2010
    Rutt's use of the term High Radius Low Amount comes from his study with Dan Margulis technique Hiraloam.

    Michael Reichman posted a similar type of sharpening that he termed local contrast enhancement.


    Typically, I use Unsharp Mask in an Amount of 18- 26 % with a Radius of 50, and a Threshold level from 0- 4 ( usually 2 ). I then may Edit this and Fade it in Luminosity Mode to prevent any color changes from bleeding out. It helps give a nice final pop to an image.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
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