Thanks everyone, Pathfinder especially, for all the great info on macro gear and technique.
Is anyone using the Canon MR-14EX Ring Lite Flash? I'm wondering how well this works with the 100mm macro. Do the focusing lamps really help with autofocus? Is it pretty good as a stand alone flash for this lens or does it really need a slave for the main?
I have the ring flash and am reasonably happy using it standalone (w/100mm).
With AF, more light is almost always better than no light.
Ian
Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
Thanks everyone, Pathfinder especially, for all the great info on macro gear and technique.
Is anyone using the Canon MR-14EX Ring Lite Flash? I'm wondering how well this works with the 100mm macro. Do the focusing lamps really help with autofocus? Is it pretty good as a stand alone flash for this lens or does it really need a slave for the main?
The ring lite tends to create a fairly flat light source without shadows. This is great for a dentist shooting intraoral shots of teeth, or a coin collector shooting coins or stamps, but not as nice as a nice diffuse sidelight. I really don't think it is that helpful at getting autofocus to lock in quicker either. The MR-24EX has two seperate light sources that can be varialbly balanced against each other. But it is expensive and the lights are not really that bright.
But the truth is I am most impressed by Lord Vetinari's use of a standard electronic flash with a homemade diffuser over the flashtube and an extension bracket and cord to place the flash at about 90 degrees to the subject giving him lovely directional soft diffuse light. Lots cheaper than dedicated macro flashes also. DavidTO has been using a Lightspere II as a macro light source with good effect also. Take a gander at their work in the Cool SHots thread where macros are posted.
The MR-24EX has two seperate light sources that can be varialbly balanced against each other. But it is expensive and the lights are not really that bright.
I might be trading a lens for the Canon 65mm macro soon. I was thinking about getting the MR-24EX. I tested it at a trade show once and it is very easy to use, but then I started looking around. I think I will use my 580ex's and 550ex's with, mostly likely, a Wimberly macro bracket setup, with two arms. They move a lot further and more positions and I will have a lot more power and just as much controllability with the use of the off-shoe 2 cord. The Wimberly setup is not cheap, but less than the mr24 and I can use equipment I already own. The modeling light is nice on the 24, but I think I could just velco a mini-mag light to the flash head and it will be just as bright if not brighter. If I get the lens that is what I will try.
I might be trading a lens for the Canon 65mm macro soon. I was thinking about getting the MR-24EX. I tested it at a trade show once and it is very easy to use, but then I started looking around. I think I will use my 580ex's and 550ex's with, mostly likely, a Wimberly macro bracket setup, with two arms. They move a lot further and more positions and I will have a lot more power and just as much controllability with the use of the off-shoe 2 cord. The Wimberly setup is not cheap, but less than the mr24 and I can use equipment I already own. The modeling light is nice on the 24, but I think I could just velco a mini-mag light to the flash head and it will be just as bright if not brighter. If I get the lens that is what I will try.
Are you getting the EF-S 60mm macro or the real MP-E 65mm macro that goes to 2 or 3 times life size Patch? For the MP-E 65 mm, I would think that the MR-24ex might be ideal - the flashes are really designed for use at just a few inches rather than a few feet I suspect. Using a 580 with the MP-E 65 seems like it might be too large and too strong -
I love the 580 with a 180mm macro so I do like using larger strobes, but the subjects for the MP-E 65mm tend to be very small - even the flash heads on the MR-24EX will seem like giant soft boxes for them.
Are you getting the EF-S 60mm macro or the real MP-E 65mm macro that goes to 2 or 3 times life size Patch? For the MP-E 65 mm, I would think that the MR-24ex might be ideal - the flashes are really designed for use at just a few inches rather than a few feet I suspect. Using a 580 with the MP-E 65 seems like it might be too large and too strong -
I love the 580 with a 180mm macro so I do like using larger strobes, but the subjects for the MP-E 65mm tend to be very small - even the flash heads on the MR-24EX will seem like giant soft boxes for them.
I am in the market for a better macro flash setup as well. I have strongly considered the MR-24EX, but I am leaning toward the Wimberly dual arm macro bracket using the 580 & 420 EX flashes I already own. I am thinking I could use my LSII on the 580 with this setup & maybe my stofen on the 420. I will look like an alien walking around with that rig tho. I agree with Path, that the MR-24 is probably ideal for ratios greater than 1:1
I might be trading a lens for the Canon 65mm macro soon. I was thinking about getting the MR-24EX. I tested it at a trade show once and it is very easy to use, but then I started looking around. I think I will use my 580ex's and 550ex's with, mostly likely, a Wimberly macro bracket setup, with two arms. They move a lot further and more positions and I will have a lot more power and just as much controllability with the use of the off-shoe 2 cord. The Wimberly setup is not cheap, but less than the mr24 and I can use equipment I already own. The modeling light is nice on the 24, but I think I could just velco a mini-mag light to the flash head and it will be just as bright if not brighter. If I get the lens that is what I will try.
I think I am with you on this one Patch. They sure are proud of those macro brackets tho. Still cheaper than a MR24 if you already own the flashes. Let me know how you like it if you decide to buy it.
Are you getting the EF-S 60mm macro or the real MP-E 65mm macro that goes to 2 or 3 times life size Patch? For the MP-E 65 mm, I would think that the MR-24ex might be ideal - the flashes are really designed for use at just a few inches rather than a few feet I suspect. Using a 580 with the MP-E 65 seems like it might be too large and too strong -
I love the 580 with a 180mm macro so I do like using larger strobes, but the subjects for the MP-E 65mm tend to be very small - even the flash heads on the MR-24EX will seem like giant soft boxes for them.
If I get one it will be the real deal MP-E 65mm macro. I have someone that is interested in trading me for another lens and I have always wanted to try it out. If I buy it and the Wimberly brackets, then find out it is way too tight I can easily sell it and move to a 100 or 180 macro. I think I can make the 580's work even though they will be respectively large to the subject.
I think I am with you on this one Patch. They sure are proud of those macro brackets tho. Still cheaper than a MR24 if you already own the flashes. Let me know how you like it if you decide to buy it.
There is a Novoflex bracket, that looks great for a dual setup, but with smaller, lighter flash units. It is a lot cheaper and Bogen has one that is $50, but I can't tell how far it moves, of the three it looks the most limited. I like the Wimberly because you can go just about anywhere with the lights.
For those considering diffusers, I recently purchased the Photoflex XTC Softbox, and it works pretty well. Prior to that I was using an omnibounce, then a homemade diffuser. The homemade was able to diffuse the best, but I ended up underexposing images. All on hotshoe mounted 420ex + 100mm canon macro. I put up a comparison gallery for anyone interested here:
There are times when it is disappointing, mainly if the subject is on the ground, and you have to shoot downwards. This often creates a bad shadow, I would like to have a bracket of some sort in this situation.. maybe someday
As for tips, I quit using a monopod, and do handheld now. Also manual mode is the way to go. Start at about 1/125 and f8 to f16, depending on how much DOF you want. Sometimes the flash will overexpose at lower stops, you may need to enter some FEC for that. The histogram becomes your good friend. I usually tend to lean towards underexposure, working in RAW, I hate to lose any highlights.
I'll let you know what I think of it, if and when I get it. It may be toooooo close of a macro lens, but time will tell. It would be happy with a 100mm macro for not so close work. If I don't like it I will offer it to you.
Comments
With AF, more light is almost always better than no light.
Ian
The ring lite tends to create a fairly flat light source without shadows. This is great for a dentist shooting intraoral shots of teeth, or a coin collector shooting coins or stamps, but not as nice as a nice diffuse sidelight. I really don't think it is that helpful at getting autofocus to lock in quicker either. The MR-24EX has two seperate light sources that can be varialbly balanced against each other. But it is expensive and the lights are not really that bright.
But the truth is I am most impressed by Lord Vetinari's use of a standard electronic flash with a homemade diffuser over the flashtube and an extension bracket and cord to place the flash at about 90 degrees to the subject giving him lovely directional soft diffuse light. Lots cheaper than dedicated macro flashes also. DavidTO has been using a Lightspere II as a macro light source with good effect also. Take a gander at their work in the Cool SHots thread where macros are posted.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
I might be trading a lens for the Canon 65mm macro soon. I was thinking about getting the MR-24EX. I tested it at a trade show once and it is very easy to use, but then I started looking around. I think I will use my 580ex's and 550ex's with, mostly likely, a Wimberly macro bracket setup, with two arms. They move a lot further and more positions and I will have a lot more power and just as much controllability with the use of the off-shoe 2 cord. The Wimberly setup is not cheap, but less than the mr24 and I can use equipment I already own. The modeling light is nice on the 24, but I think I could just velco a mini-mag light to the flash head and it will be just as bright if not brighter. If I get the lens that is what I will try.
I love the 580 with a 180mm macro so I do like using larger strobes, but the subjects for the MP-E 65mm tend to be very small - even the flash heads on the MR-24EX will seem like giant soft boxes for them.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
TML Photography
tmlphoto.com
TML Photography
tmlphoto.com
If I get one it will be the real deal MP-E 65mm macro. I have someone that is interested in trading me for another lens and I have always wanted to try it out. If I buy it and the Wimberly brackets, then find out it is way too tight I can easily sell it and move to a 100 or 180 macro. I think I can make the 580's work even though they will be respectively large to the subject.
There is a Novoflex bracket, that looks great for a dual setup, but with smaller, lighter flash units. It is a lot cheaper and Bogen has one that is $50, but I can't tell how far it moves, of the three it looks the most limited. I like the Wimberly because you can go just about anywhere with the lights.
http://didymus.smugmug.com/gallery/616815
Also check out any of the macro images for an idea of what a simple hotshoe mounted flash can do here:
http://didymus.smugmug.com/gallery/609188
There are times when it is disappointing, mainly if the subject is on the ground, and you have to shoot downwards. This often creates a bad shadow, I would like to have a bracket of some sort in this situation.. maybe someday
As for tips, I quit using a monopod, and do handheld now. Also manual mode is the way to go. Start at about 1/125 and f8 to f16, depending on how much DOF you want. Sometimes the flash will overexpose at lower stops, you may need to enter some FEC for that. The histogram becomes your good friend. I usually tend to lean towards underexposure, working in RAW, I hate to lose any highlights.
hm... is this something i should be buying?????
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I'll let you know what I think of it, if and when I get it. It may be toooooo close of a macro lens, but time will tell. It would be happy with a 100mm macro for not so close work. If I don't like it I will offer it to you.