Hi Jenn,
Your newest shot is getting better!!! No glare from flash, nice sharp focus on the 2 cents. Hey, one thing I noticed is that the image has a lot of "noise" in it. ISO setting can affect this. I checked your camera manual online and fortunately, you CAN manually set the ISO setting on your camera model! One of the reviews I read indicated that with this particular camera, they try to keep the ISO at 100 and not above 800. Your camera can go as high as 3200, which will let you shoot in low light but will give you the more grainy/noisy image. To change the ISO, go into the menu, find ISO settings...click through options. The one thing to watch for is "Intelligent ISO" and "Auto ISO". Both of these should be set at 800 so that your camera doesn't automatically set them higher in low light. What this means, is that you will not be able to focus or take a shot unless you have enough light, though....so if that happens and it's a shot you just really want to have and don't mind the noise, quickly reset the menu to higher ISO and then remember to change it back to 800 again.
I hope this helps. Keep trying!!! : )
I had the Sensivity set to auto and captured it at ISO Equiv.: 100 .... I had a light on above the object plus I covered the flash with tissue.. the thing is ... the fabric I used behind it really looks like that... it isn't the picture that's grainy.. the fabric is a lightweight rayon/polyester blend and it looks like that. It's the only solid black cloth I could use for a backdrop. Should I try to edit out 'noise' ?
The first thing you see in this pic is the two cents. That's the focus. The viewer is less distracted by other elements, the noisy background, the flash reflection.
Yes you can. You are taking the suggestions and making the adjustments. You are getting better each time.
I don't have a clue how to make it any better than it is now.. As it is I've taken that picture 55 times at least! I'm thinking the idea is not so much fun anymore
Jenn, there is ALWAYS a way to make something better. Even the best picture in the world *could have done something better* (and I'll bet that every challenge winner here - or anywhere else - can look at their winning photo and point out all the things they wish they'd done better or differently).
It's clear that you're starting to confront the technical challenges you're finding in getting the shot that' "in your head" - keep at it! Big improvements from your first effort to the most recent one. But if you're still confused as to why the last one is better (and really, only 55 shots???? My first few challenges when I was coming to grips with basic technique I was sometimes taking 1000 shots!! Nope, not exaggerating), then it seems to me you could benefit from reading up a bit more on technique, and also improving your own critical (in the sense of analytical) faculties by looking at others' photos with the same attention to technical detail, and starting to educate your eye to look beyond the "big picture" of the picture and working out *how* it was created.
As to the flash on the jar: look up the term "specular highlight". Then, start reading up about "off camera flash" vs "on camera flash" - you need to know what these mean, and how they might look so you can help yourself use them to your advantage.
Any noticeable "hotspot" that doesn't intentionally highlight something is often considered a "bad" technical thing. Not always - it CAN be used to artistic effect, and if you want it there, then fine - but when it's there "by accident", then it's not usually a goodness.
Flash on the camera often gives very flat, harsh lighting, and often results in those hotspots because it's so direct. By getting the light source OFF the camera, you can move it around and have control over where the shadows fall, and can even control how reflective surfaces bounce the light by using the angles of the object itself to bounce it AWAY from sight (cf how to take pictures of somebody wearing glasses) ... and yup, even controlling specular highlights. You don't need to have a camera flash to do this - you can use ANY light source, even though regular incandescent lightbulbs may need you to adjust your white balance.
Which leads to the other technical issue you faced, which was the colour cast once you started playign with light. Check your camera manual for how to set white balances (or adjust it using whatever software you use on your computer to process your shots).
The technical aspect of a shot IS part of the fun!! It's the means to the end which lets you get the shot you want. Keep at it, and take the (very generous) constructive criticism you're receiving as encouragement to keep trying!
I've put this jar in natural light and there is still a shadow and light reflecting off the jar... if that doesn't happen then the background shows up, which some say is distracting, so I try to put a black bg behind it, and it's grainy because the material is like that..... Someone said my most recent try still had a shadow and was fuzzy, but I don't think it's possible to get a photo without some sort of a shadow in it. Previously, somewhere... someone mentioned that you want the main object in focus and it's ok if other stuff is a bit fuzzy because it makes the main object more obvious. So...... If I take the jar outside and try for natural light... it's going to have objects in the background plus some natural light reflecting off the jar ... I don't have anything to put behind it to give it a solid black bg. Won't that be going backwards.. having stuff in the background and light still reflecing off the jar? Seems any light I use is going to have some sort of reflection on that glass jar.
I'm a graphic artist so I see graphics a bit differently and what I like is different from what ya'll as photographers are liking. I also don't have any special equipment... external lights... anything to bounce light off of something else... I just have this digital camera that has it's own flash. All I can do with it is limited to what the camera can do and what I can do with what's in my house... like ceiling lights, or desk lights.
For this most recent challenge, I just took 325 shots. 55 is not a lot.
Your shot of the stump is a good one - clear, no shadows, no reflection...you had good natural light. Now try to find a way to make it interesting and eye catching.
For this most recent challenge, I just took 325 shots. 55 is not a lot.
Your shot of the stump is a good one - clear, no shadows, no reflection...you had good natural light. Now try to find a way to make it interesting and eye catching.
hmmm I already did editing on it to take the bright colored greens out of the image so the stump would stand out.
Here is the original. How else would I edit it to make the stump stand out more?
it has some shadows, but I think the eye goes to the pennies... and I didn't get much of the flash. I covered it with some tissues.
This is definitely a better shot (other than the noise/grain), and there is no distraction from the main subject of the image (the two cents). Also, you've placed them in the upper-right third, right on a "power point".
You've used the "rule of thirds" (which you may know about), but if you don't, it states that:
1) The preferred placement of a subject should fall along a line one-third of the way from any edge of the image.
2) The ideal placement of a subject for greatest visual impact is over the intersection of any vertical and horizontal "third" line. This is called a "power point".
Another thing I like in this picture is a rule of composition that says "use elements in the picture to lead the eye to the subject". The curve of your thumb and its direction lead the eye from left to right, and down to the pennies. (It's the fingers and thumb that first catch the eye, because they are brighter than the rest of the image, and the eye is first attracted to brightness and color. Even a small object in an image, if it has a bold and bright color, will grab the eye faster than a larger image that is less-lit or has muted colors)
It is my opinion, and I share it with many photographers, that the single most important thing in taking a good photo is Composition. It's the way you present the subject and its supporting elements, so as to tell a story, convey an idea, or an emotion. Any good camera can take a sharp, well-exposed picture with good colors. But it still takes a human to make art.
This is definitely a better shot (other than the noise/grain), and there is no distraction from the main subject of the image (the two cents). Also, you've placed them in the upper-right third, right on a "power point".
Thanks for the info.. that really helped. I entered try #3 of the penny drop. I was looking at it and it has the same composition only in the lover 1/3rd of the power point, as you described. Do you think my try #3 is better or try #2 is better?
Comments
I had the Sensivity set to auto and captured it at ISO Equiv.: 100 .... I had a light on above the object plus I covered the flash with tissue.. the thing is ... the fabric I used behind it really looks like that... it isn't the picture that's grainy.. the fabric is a lightweight rayon/polyester blend and it looks like that. It's the only solid black cloth I could use for a backdrop. Should I try to edit out 'noise' ?
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
"I'm putting my..."
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
Much better!
ackdoc.com
Can you tell me what I did right vs what I did wrong with the other 2?
thanks......
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
ackdoc.com
If I could tell the story in words, I wouldn't need to lug around a camera. ~Lewis Hine
http://sandizphotos-seascapes.smugmug.com/
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
If I could tell the story in words, I wouldn't need to lug around a camera. ~Lewis Hine
http://sandizphotos-seascapes.smugmug.com/
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
It's clear that you're starting to confront the technical challenges you're finding in getting the shot that' "in your head" - keep at it! Big improvements from your first effort to the most recent one. But if you're still confused as to why the last one is better (and really, only 55 shots???? My first few challenges when I was coming to grips with basic technique I was sometimes taking 1000 shots!! Nope, not exaggerating), then it seems to me you could benefit from reading up a bit more on technique, and also improving your own critical (in the sense of analytical) faculties by looking at others' photos with the same attention to technical detail, and starting to educate your eye to look beyond the "big picture" of the picture and working out *how* it was created.
As to the flash on the jar: look up the term "specular highlight". Then, start reading up about "off camera flash" vs "on camera flash" - you need to know what these mean, and how they might look so you can help yourself use them to your advantage.
Any noticeable "hotspot" that doesn't intentionally highlight something is often considered a "bad" technical thing. Not always - it CAN be used to artistic effect, and if you want it there, then fine - but when it's there "by accident", then it's not usually a goodness.
Flash on the camera often gives very flat, harsh lighting, and often results in those hotspots because it's so direct. By getting the light source OFF the camera, you can move it around and have control over where the shadows fall, and can even control how reflective surfaces bounce the light by using the angles of the object itself to bounce it AWAY from sight (cf how to take pictures of somebody wearing glasses) ... and yup, even controlling specular highlights. You don't need to have a camera flash to do this - you can use ANY light source, even though regular incandescent lightbulbs may need you to adjust your white balance.
Which leads to the other technical issue you faced, which was the colour cast once you started playign with light. Check your camera manual for how to set white balances (or adjust it using whatever software you use on your computer to process your shots).
The technical aspect of a shot IS part of the fun!! It's the means to the end which lets you get the shot you want. Keep at it, and take the (very generous) constructive criticism you're receiving as encouragement to keep trying!
I'm a graphic artist so I see graphics a bit differently and what I like is different from what ya'll as photographers are liking. I also don't have any special equipment... external lights... anything to bounce light off of something else... I just have this digital camera that has it's own flash. All I can do with it is limited to what the camera can do and what I can do with what's in my house... like ceiling lights, or desk lights.
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
I think I'm ______________!
(try #4)
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
"I'm putting my _________" (the 2 pennies)
or
"I think I'm __________" (the tree stump)
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
For this most recent challenge, I just took 325 shots. 55 is not a lot.
Your shot of the stump is a good one - clear, no shadows, no reflection...you had good natural light. Now try to find a way to make it interesting and eye catching.
If I could tell the story in words, I wouldn't need to lug around a camera. ~Lewis Hine
http://sandizphotos-seascapes.smugmug.com/
hmmm I already did editing on it to take the bright colored greens out of the image so the stump would stand out.
Here is the original. How else would I edit it to make the stump stand out more?
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
A photograph is an artistic expression of life, captured one moment at a time . . .
http://bartlettphotoart.smugmug.com/
oh rats! forgot to do that. thanks
(goes hunting for the link what I do that.....)
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
Yay!
I know you put a lot of effort (and struggle) into the pic but good job! Keep it up; it will help you improve even more
Nothing like putting some literal blood, sweat, and tears into what you do, right?
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6
You've used the "rule of thirds" (which you may know about), but if you don't, it states that:
1) The preferred placement of a subject should fall along a line one-third of the way from any edge of the image.
2) The ideal placement of a subject for greatest visual impact is over the intersection of any vertical and horizontal "third" line. This is called a "power point".
Another thing I like in this picture is a rule of composition that says "use elements in the picture to lead the eye to the subject". The curve of your thumb and its direction lead the eye from left to right, and down to the pennies. (It's the fingers and thumb that first catch the eye, because they are brighter than the rest of the image, and the eye is first attracted to brightness and color. Even a small object in an image, if it has a bold and bright color, will grab the eye faster than a larger image that is less-lit or has muted colors)
It is my opinion, and I share it with many photographers, that the single most important thing in taking a good photo is Composition. It's the way you present the subject and its supporting elements, so as to tell a story, convey an idea, or an emotion. Any good camera can take a sharp, well-exposed picture with good colors. But it still takes a human to make art.
You are doing a fine job, keep at it!
Art
Thanks for the info.. that really helped. I entered try #3 of the penny drop. I was looking at it and it has the same composition only in the lover 1/3rd of the power point, as you described. Do you think my try #3 is better or try #2 is better?
Panasonic Lumix 10x DMC-TZ3 :photo
Leica Mega O.I.S./28mm WIDE :smile6