My Near Death Journey
Last Tuesday I was involved in a climbing accident. Spent a few days in ICU...Heres the story.
Dane, Shasta and I decided to climb at the wedge and made the long hike (around 5 miles) to the base of the climbs. The weather had not been overly cooperative as it was very windy and every few minutes a rain would roll through the valley. It quickly left but the wind was consistent. We hiked up several hundred feet of talus and scree to reach the base of the first climbs, noting that the topographical map in the guidebook was not correct. The climbing was cold and slightly miserable. Thankfully the climbs themselves were enjoyable or else I am pretty sure the entire day would have been misery. Shasta walked back down the mountain to take a break in the sun where she could also find shelter behind a boulder while Dane and I climbed a 5.10a called Soddom and Gommorah. We finished the route and I called down to Shasta that I had seen some better areas up high that were easier an would be more protected from the wind. She begin the hike back to our position while I went and rappelled a line called Great Expectations to gather bolt and anchor information. For anyone who is heading that way the anchor bolts are loose in the holes, not a good sign. After rappelling the line I pulled the rope. At this point all three of us were standing on a small ledge which had a bit of a drop on the left and a rock wall behind. Not much room to move other then to exit the ledge in the direction I was standing. On the ropes way down it got caught pretty good about halfway up the cliff. I gave it a small tug and realized that it was not going to come easily. At this point I also got nervous that Shasta was directly underneath the area where the rock was stuck. So I said "You guys should move in case anything comes down." Shasta stood and walked further into the wall area where Dane had his helmet. I was unaware at this moment that it was the reason she went that way. I took a step back and was about to tell her that it was better if she came my way instead. However when I took my step back I pulled the rope a bit and it was just enough to dislodge the block. I saw Shasta turn as if she was going to come this way and I noticed Dane just off to my left. I yelled rock and I believe Dane did as well. I was instantly angry at myself for having put stress on the rope when I was moving. I felt I knew what was going to happen. To me I felt as though it was going to hit Shasta and that I had no other options. Before I was really able to think about it I had moved under the rock. I put my hands up to stop the rock but it deflected from my right bruising my palm an slammed into my chest and neck. I blinked and when i reopened my eyes I had launched into Dane and we were in the air. I hit him with my back and right shoulder, Shasta said that she could see the soles of his feet. We went roughly 10ft before impacting and rolling down the scree. I stopped with my leg underneath me and I was completely unable to breath. These were some of the scariest seconds of my life as I waited to see if I was ever going to breath again.
During the period from when the rock dislodged to when i could finally breath again I had to most amazing feeling of deja-vu. I felt I knew what was going to happen every second that it was occuring. In my mind I watched Dane roll over and grab his leg before be did it. It was as though I was watching a dream come true and it was even more painful then I had imagined.
I finally chocked out a few breaths as Dane asked me questions and I could hear him saying my name. I felt like I was swimming from some far off place as my head cleared. I heard "You took that square in the chest".
I knew we were going to need help. Dane had tried to stand and then fell back grasping his leg. He had a cut clear to the bone and his foot was in severe pain. We told Shasta she would need to call for help. I believe I said it along the lines of "Were going to need help here." Shasta grabbed Danes phone and ran to get a direct line so that she could have reception which was just around the mountain. Dane hobbled up to the rock and picked it up showing it to me. He said it ways about 75lbs. The sets it back down and it breaks in half, for some reason this saddened me. It had fallen from at least 40ft.
I was cursing and furious that I had pulled the rock and put everyone in such danger. As I was starting to think more clearly I knew I didn't want to lifted from the side of the mountain especially with the high winds so Dane and I decided to try and get to flatter ground. I stood slowly and moved through some steps that felt like knives digging into my chest. The most painful thing was swallowing as the rock had hit me directly in throat leaving a gash. We some how made it down the mountain before I collapsed back unable to move. I could no longer lift my head without the intense incapacitating pain. The helicopter took an hour to get to us and it was the State Trooper Helicopter that came. They took me to Providince hospital where I underwent multiple CAT scans and X-Rays. All the doctors came back astonished to find that I had not broken anything. They were also amazed to discover that I crushed my thyroid from trauma which is something most of them had never heard of before. I had scans and morphine for most of the next day before they finally decided that no surgery was needed and I was allowed to drink. I spent the next day recovering and finding out how to move so that I didn't scream. I finally walked on Thursday. The accident happened Tuesday afternoon. I am home now and recovering. Mostly I am able to sit up. I can walk around for about 20min and I think I maxed out around an hour before I needed some good rest. I can sleep through most of the night now and only feel nauseous a few times a day. Shasta stayed with me almost the entire time sleeping day and night in the hospital room. I also was visited by so many amazing people that helped keep me in good spirits. Thanks to everyone!
Dane had a hairline fracture in the third metatarsal. The helicopter came and picked up him and Shasta after dropping me off and it dropped them off at the car. He was willing to walk the 5 miles back but I am glad that he didn't have to.
I feel lucky every day. Also I think we all feel lucky that nothing worst happened. I can't imagine watching my love one go under a rock and I am really sorry that I made my girlfriend go through that. Still, it could have been worst and I don't regret anything. I always wondered that if the time came would my instincts be to save someone I love over myself. Guess I don't have to wonder anymore.
Here is a picture that shows the area. This is about 50 minutes before the accident. The circle in red shows where the rock came from. The three lines are Shasta , Dane, and Me in that order from left to right. The red line shows where Dane and I pitched to after being hit.
Dane, Shasta and I decided to climb at the wedge and made the long hike (around 5 miles) to the base of the climbs. The weather had not been overly cooperative as it was very windy and every few minutes a rain would roll through the valley. It quickly left but the wind was consistent. We hiked up several hundred feet of talus and scree to reach the base of the first climbs, noting that the topographical map in the guidebook was not correct. The climbing was cold and slightly miserable. Thankfully the climbs themselves were enjoyable or else I am pretty sure the entire day would have been misery. Shasta walked back down the mountain to take a break in the sun where she could also find shelter behind a boulder while Dane and I climbed a 5.10a called Soddom and Gommorah. We finished the route and I called down to Shasta that I had seen some better areas up high that were easier an would be more protected from the wind. She begin the hike back to our position while I went and rappelled a line called Great Expectations to gather bolt and anchor information. For anyone who is heading that way the anchor bolts are loose in the holes, not a good sign. After rappelling the line I pulled the rope. At this point all three of us were standing on a small ledge which had a bit of a drop on the left and a rock wall behind. Not much room to move other then to exit the ledge in the direction I was standing. On the ropes way down it got caught pretty good about halfway up the cliff. I gave it a small tug and realized that it was not going to come easily. At this point I also got nervous that Shasta was directly underneath the area where the rock was stuck. So I said "You guys should move in case anything comes down." Shasta stood and walked further into the wall area where Dane had his helmet. I was unaware at this moment that it was the reason she went that way. I took a step back and was about to tell her that it was better if she came my way instead. However when I took my step back I pulled the rope a bit and it was just enough to dislodge the block. I saw Shasta turn as if she was going to come this way and I noticed Dane just off to my left. I yelled rock and I believe Dane did as well. I was instantly angry at myself for having put stress on the rope when I was moving. I felt I knew what was going to happen. To me I felt as though it was going to hit Shasta and that I had no other options. Before I was really able to think about it I had moved under the rock. I put my hands up to stop the rock but it deflected from my right bruising my palm an slammed into my chest and neck. I blinked and when i reopened my eyes I had launched into Dane and we were in the air. I hit him with my back and right shoulder, Shasta said that she could see the soles of his feet. We went roughly 10ft before impacting and rolling down the scree. I stopped with my leg underneath me and I was completely unable to breath. These were some of the scariest seconds of my life as I waited to see if I was ever going to breath again.
During the period from when the rock dislodged to when i could finally breath again I had to most amazing feeling of deja-vu. I felt I knew what was going to happen every second that it was occuring. In my mind I watched Dane roll over and grab his leg before be did it. It was as though I was watching a dream come true and it was even more painful then I had imagined.
I finally chocked out a few breaths as Dane asked me questions and I could hear him saying my name. I felt like I was swimming from some far off place as my head cleared. I heard "You took that square in the chest".
I knew we were going to need help. Dane had tried to stand and then fell back grasping his leg. He had a cut clear to the bone and his foot was in severe pain. We told Shasta she would need to call for help. I believe I said it along the lines of "Were going to need help here." Shasta grabbed Danes phone and ran to get a direct line so that she could have reception which was just around the mountain. Dane hobbled up to the rock and picked it up showing it to me. He said it ways about 75lbs. The sets it back down and it breaks in half, for some reason this saddened me. It had fallen from at least 40ft.
I was cursing and furious that I had pulled the rock and put everyone in such danger. As I was starting to think more clearly I knew I didn't want to lifted from the side of the mountain especially with the high winds so Dane and I decided to try and get to flatter ground. I stood slowly and moved through some steps that felt like knives digging into my chest. The most painful thing was swallowing as the rock had hit me directly in throat leaving a gash. We some how made it down the mountain before I collapsed back unable to move. I could no longer lift my head without the intense incapacitating pain. The helicopter took an hour to get to us and it was the State Trooper Helicopter that came. They took me to Providince hospital where I underwent multiple CAT scans and X-Rays. All the doctors came back astonished to find that I had not broken anything. They were also amazed to discover that I crushed my thyroid from trauma which is something most of them had never heard of before. I had scans and morphine for most of the next day before they finally decided that no surgery was needed and I was allowed to drink. I spent the next day recovering and finding out how to move so that I didn't scream. I finally walked on Thursday. The accident happened Tuesday afternoon. I am home now and recovering. Mostly I am able to sit up. I can walk around for about 20min and I think I maxed out around an hour before I needed some good rest. I can sleep through most of the night now and only feel nauseous a few times a day. Shasta stayed with me almost the entire time sleeping day and night in the hospital room. I also was visited by so many amazing people that helped keep me in good spirits. Thanks to everyone!
Dane had a hairline fracture in the third metatarsal. The helicopter came and picked up him and Shasta after dropping me off and it dropped them off at the car. He was willing to walk the 5 miles back but I am glad that he didn't have to.
I feel lucky every day. Also I think we all feel lucky that nothing worst happened. I can't imagine watching my love one go under a rock and I am really sorry that I made my girlfriend go through that. Still, it could have been worst and I don't regret anything. I always wondered that if the time came would my instincts be to save someone I love over myself. Guess I don't have to wonder anymore.
Here is a picture that shows the area. This is about 50 minutes before the accident. The circle in red shows where the rock came from. The three lines are Shasta , Dane, and Me in that order from left to right. The red line shows where Dane and I pitched to after being hit.
My Pictures can be seen at http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com
I Live at http://www.alaskamountainforum.com
I Live at http://www.alaskamountainforum.com
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Alaska State Troopers rock!
SmugMug Technical Account Manager
Travel = good. Woo, shooting!
nickwphoto
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Heal quickly! And I"m sooooooo glad to hear that you're okay!
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Sam
Thanks again!
I Live at http://www.alaskamountainforum.com
This was a great story, not only for the drama, but because everyone made it home. A little worse for wear, perhaps, but all still breathing and more or less in one piece.
And Ian is right - AK State Troopers rock. They're like the Coast Guard, except they operate on land, sea, and air, in some of the toughest terrain and weather on the planet.
Do you plan on returning to the scene to finish the climb when you're fully recovered?
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