Quick sharpening question
rickp
Registered Users Posts: 346 Major grins
Hey guys,
quick question on sharpening and noise reduction. When you guys start your PPing do you sharpen your image first then reduce noise or the other way around? And also, do you run both unsharp mask and High pass of just one method?
R.
quick question on sharpening and noise reduction. When you guys start your PPing do you sharpen your image first then reduce noise or the other way around? And also, do you run both unsharp mask and High pass of just one method?
R.
Canon 5DMk II | 70-200mm f2.8 IS USM | 24-105mm f4.0 IS USM | 85mm f1.8 prime.
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Also when I do sharpen I do it on separate layers. My noise reduction program is Topaz Labs DeNoise 4.0
The other part of this that kind of confuses me is how much Radius to apply. I would think there's not a set number but do you guys have any recommendations?
Author "Color Management for Photographers"
http://www.digitaldog.net/
Output sharpening I do via the printing panel in LR 3.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
I usually do 2 passes of sharpening.
First pass is for local contrast enhancement. Dan Margulis calls it HIRALOAM (High Radius Low Amount). He recommends bumping the sharpness amount to 500% and then playing with the radius until you get a good shape to your picture. This is hard to describe, but for example if you are trying on a portrait, you don't want to completely wash out the cheeks, nose and chin, but give shape to the face. Once the radius is set to your liking, you reduce the amount to your liking. For me it is usually between 20 and 70 for amount.
Then I do a pass of normal sharpening with my radius usually between .5 and 2 and amount to your liking.
Some more about sharpening
I do not think of Local Contrast Enhancement as sharpening, so much as a bit of mid tone contrast. Capture Sharpening is best done in Raw Conversion.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
R.
"HIRALOAM" is an acronym for the "Un-Sharp Masking" (USM) settings of "Hi Radius, Low Amount", equating to a type of global sharpening.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
R.
Another unnecessary made up term (like “false Profile” or “Impossible Colors”)!
See:
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=24097&mode=threaded&pid=183603
Schewe has the skinny on this.
As the Chinese proverb says: The first step towards genius is calling things by their proper name. Not sure what that makes of those that feel the need to invent terms that don’t need to be invented.
Author "Color Management for Photographers"
http://www.digitaldog.net/
Knowing the background history here, I find the comments over naming to be petty.
Stephen Marsh
http://binaryfx.customer.netspace.net.au/ (coming soon!)
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/
http://prepression.blogspot.com/
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/
http://prepression.blogspot.com/
OK, so what precisely does clarity do? The only explanations I have seen are rather vague.
Its a Midtone contrast tweak. It *appears* to produce sharper images because in reality, the only way we sharpen is by adjusting the tones of edges and such. Think of producing a sharpening (say USM), then ONLY targeting the midtones. In Holberts technqiue, its using High pass and Overlay blend modes. Mac’s Photoshop technique uses the Blend If to adjust just this effect to the midtones. It starts to fade in at a value of 50, is full strength at 70. Runs full strength from 70 to 185, then fades back to 205.
Author "Color Management for Photographers"
http://www.digitaldog.net/
Richard, there would be at least two ways to answer this question - if the user manual is not providing the required answer:
1) from intimate behind the scenes knowlege
2) from "reverse engineering" the command
Option 1 may not be that easy, unless one knows what trade secrets go into the process.
Option 2 is easier for the common end user.
Render an image into Photoshop with zero clarity settings. I would then dupe this image with a different name and close down the original render. Next I would open the same image in ACR and put in a med-high clarity setting without changing any other slider and then render this into Photoshop.
Layer one image over the other, set the upper image to difference blend mode and flatten. Then use the image/adjustments/equalize command to "magnify" the differences so that they are easy to visually identify.
Sincerely,
Stephen Marsh
http://binaryfx.customer.netspace.net.au/ (coming soon!)
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/
http://prepression.blogspot.com/
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/
http://prepression.blogspot.com/