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How To Photography fireworks Display?

98olds98olds Registered Users Posts: 137 Major grins
edited August 31, 2010 in Technique
Ok, I have a Nikon D3000,

Nikon 18-55mm VR
Nikon 55-200mm VR
Nikon 18-105mm VR
and Nikon 70-300mm VR


What setting should I use on the Camera itself and which lens would you reccomend using out of my 3 telephotos???

Thanks
Nikon D3000
Nikkor 18-55mm Kit Lens
Nikkor 55-200mm VR Lens
Nikkor 18-105mm VR Lens
Nikkor 70-300mm VR Lens

Nikon SB-600 speedlight

Nikon EM Film SLR
50mm Lens

85mm Lens

Canon Powershot SX100IS

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    r3t1awr3ydr3t1awr3yd Registered Users Posts: 1,000 Major grins
    edited August 4, 2010
    There are a lot of details you're leaving out here.
    How far will you be from the fireworks?
    What height will you be in relation to the fireworks?
    Are you using a tripod? (yes!)

    Now that I think about it, there are a billion variables. Manual mode to the rescue! Chimping to the rescue! lol.

    Hi! I'm Wally: website | blog | facebook | IG | scotchNsniff
    Nikon addict. D610, Tok 11-16, Sig 24-35, Nik 24-70/70-200vr
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    FoquesFoques Registered Users Posts: 1,951 Major grins
    edited August 4, 2010
    you have got to use tripod.
    your best bet would be to use 18-55, unless you are very far from the fireworks.
    shooting using slow shutter speed. You will need to play with the value.
    shooting using lowest possible natural ISO
    shooting F 7.1-16

    at least, that's how I shoot mine.
    927255008_PxnfV-L.jpg

    927253831_ktL8D-L.jpg
    Arseny - the too honest guy.
    My Site
    My Facebook
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    r3t1awr3ydr3t1awr3yd Registered Users Posts: 1,000 Major grins
    edited August 4, 2010

    Hi! I'm Wally: website | blog | facebook | IG | scotchNsniff
    Nikon addict. D610, Tok 11-16, Sig 24-35, Nik 24-70/70-200vr
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    GadgetRickGadgetRick Registered Users Posts: 787 Major grins
    edited August 4, 2010
    Shoot in bulb mode. When the firework goes up, hit the shutter button (hopefully remote or be VERY careful about camera shake), when it's bloomed enough, release the shutter. Firework photo done.

    924152095_kaLK9-L.jpg

    924153268_bbUKC-L.jpg

    You must use a tripod (or something stable to put your camera on). Remote shutter release REALLY helps. This is what may happen if you're pressing the shutter button on the camera:

    923672555_tz2La-L.jpg

    Remember to shoot wide so you have a better chance of catching what you want in frame. Crop later.
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    bgarlandbgarland Registered Users Posts: 761 Major grins
    edited August 4, 2010
    IS Off
    If your lens has image stabilization be sure to turn it off when shooting off the tripod. I forgot to do that last time I shot fireworks and ended up with this:

    923706672_c28Er-L.jpg


    923710212_FvVtG-L.jpg

    Every shot has the consistent frequency squiggles from IS feedback.headscratch.gif

    Lesson learned. :D Of course you could leave it on if you want this "special effect".
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    GadgetRickGadgetRick Registered Users Posts: 787 Major grins
    edited August 5, 2010
    Good point on turing off IS. Forgot to mention that.
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    Manfr3dManfr3d Registered Users Posts: 2,008 Major grins
    edited August 11, 2010
    The most important thing you need to know is that you control how bright
    the fireworks with your aperature alone (set ISO to lowest value!) and the
    length of the trails with the exposure time.

    So what you do is setup your camera on a tripos in manual mode and
    start at f8 or f11 and set exposure time between 5 and 15 seconds.

    You will get better results when you use a Cable release and set the
    camera to "bulb" mode. This allows you to control the length of an
    exposure as you press the shutter release.

    You need to shoot and test a bit in the beginning to figure out at which
    fstop you get the most color in the fireworks. If you are getting lots of
    white it means your aperature is opend to wide and the fireworks is overexposed hiding the color.

    Here is a very good read on the technique and approach for fireworks photography
    “To consult the rules of composition before making a picture is a little like consulting the law of gravitation before going for a walk.”
    ― Edward Weston
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    gecko0gecko0 Registered Users Posts: 383 Major grins
    edited August 11, 2010
    It's definitely one of those things that looks/sounds harder than it is, once you get out there and start shooting. I have only tried once so far (looking forward to trying again though) and had decent results. The shots below were with my XSi and the kit lens, so it doesn't take magical equipment, just bulb mode, low ISO, f/8-f/16, a manual pre-focus in the area of the bursts, and you're good to go. The challenging part (at least in the area I live) is to find interesting foregrounds. My shots are just of the bursts, which then looks like the other 347893478930 pictures of fireworks out there.

    581682425_3mnUt-M-1.jpg

    581681994_tc6VN-M-1.jpg
    Canon 7D and some stuff that sticks on the end of it.
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    Numbers GuyNumbers Guy Registered Users Posts: 73 Big grins
    edited August 15, 2010
    I hadn't shot fireworks in years (more than 15) and was wanting to try during this year's 4th of July weekend. I read a few things on the web and found it's easier than it looks (noted by someone above).

    I shot anywhere from f/10 to f/13 at 100 ISO on bulb. I tried not to leave the shutter open for more than 4 or 5 burst so as not to get blown highlights. They were firing off so quickly, that this usually meant about 4-6 seconds. Would have been nice to get 10-15 second exposures to pick up the city more, but I'm happy with the results.

    924476690_DUC7t-L.jpg
    Doug Vaughn
    http://www.dougvaughn.com
    Canon 5D MKII and more lenses than my wife thinks I can afford.
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    StueveShotsStueveShots Registered Users Posts: 544 Major grins
    edited August 18, 2010
    bgarland wrote: »
    If your lens has image stabilization be sure to turn it off when shooting off the tripod. I forgot to do that last time I shot fireworks and ended up with this:

    923706672_c28Er-L.jpg


    923710212_FvVtG-L.jpg

    Every shot has the consistent frequency squiggles from IS feedback.headscratch.gif

    Lesson learned. :D Of course you could leave it on if you want this "special effect".


    Wow! Thanks for the information. I was wondering what had caused the wiggles here:

    968795389_4HJNa-L.jpg

    Course it didn't help that this was a spontaneous, hand-held shot!

    I'm grateful for the info. Now I'll know what to do next time...
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    dlscott56dlscott56 Registered Users Posts: 1,324 Major grins
    edited August 20, 2010
    Wow! Thanks for the information. I was wondering what had caused the wiggles here:

    968795389_4HJNa-L.jpg

    Course it didn't help that this was a spontaneous, hand-held shot!

    I'm grateful for the info. Now I'll know what to do next time...

    Beautiful! Hand held, I'm impressed! bowdown.gif
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    StueveShotsStueveShots Registered Users Posts: 544 Major grins
    edited August 20, 2010
    Thank you! I was pretty happy too...believe me, I've got lots of shots that didn't work at all because the photographer kept jumping when the fireworks went off!
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    MartynMartyn Registered Users Posts: 112 Major grins
    edited August 31, 2010
    I actually like these.
    bgarland wrote: »
    If your lens has image stabilization be sure to turn it off when shooting off the tripod. I forgot to do that last time I shot fireworks and ended up with this:

    923706672_c28Er-L.jpg


    923710212_FvVtG-L.jpg

    Every shot has the consistent frequency squiggles from IS feedback.headscratch.gif

    Lesson learned. :D Of course you could leave it on if you want this "special effect".
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    NyarthlopicNyarthlopic Registered Users Posts: 274 Major grins
    edited August 31, 2010
    When I shot a fireworks display, I set my camera up on a tripod (I agree with what others say, it's a must). ISO was set to 100. Anywhere from f/8 to f/16...let your light meter tell you. If it's early in the evening when there is still some ambient light from the sun, you want the aperture smaller. I made sure that I was at least two steps "underexposed." And for the shutter speed, it depends on how much of the display you want in one shot. My preference was between 2 and 4 seconds; I only wanted a few fireworks in each shot. If I wanted more than that, I would have set my shutter speed for longer. I agree with GadgetRick above when he says to use a remote. I had a couple with the camera shake, didn't turn out too nice. For my lens, I went with 18mm. Make sure to turn off AF; it'll never focus otherwise. "Luckily" none of my lenses have IS, so I can't speak to that.

    Happy shooting!
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    bgarlandbgarland Registered Users Posts: 761 Major grins
    edited August 31, 2010
    Martyn wrote: »
    I actually like these.

    Although it was not my intention to get squiggly fireworks I thought they turned out pretty interesting too. :D

    If you want to see more the whole set can be seen here:

    http://bgarland.smugmug.com/Holidays/4th-Of-July-2010/12810474_7Ukvy#923715122_XxjFx

    Still, I think next time I'll turn off IS. rolleyes1.gif
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