Climbing Mount Rainier

greenpea

Over the past year my interests in photography have taken a serious back seat to my interests in mountaineering and conditioning for that sport. The goal is to become a strong enough and proficient enough in mountaineering that I can eventually combine that with my interest in photography. For now though, my Nikon dSLR and collection of lenses spends most of the time at home in favor of a much more portable Canon S90 (yes…my dSLR is Nikon, but for p&s I totally prefer Canon).

After failing to summit Mount Hood or Mount Baker this past year, finally last month I added a major feather to in my mountaineering cap; Mount Rainier. Working with the guide Martin Volken, head of Pro Guiding Service, I was able to summit Mount Rainer via the Kautz Glacier route along with 3 other people. It was a four day trip that was absolutely spectacular, with flawless weather, and warm temperatures all the way up to our high camp at 11,000’.

What I wasn’t prepared for is how difficult it is to take pictures, when you are roped up, wearing crampons, dodging crevasses and so completely focused on just keeping yourself moving up the mountain. I the ability to take pictures while climbing will come with some more practice.

Our trip began Sunday July 25, as we headed from Paradise on Mount Rainer up to 8,900’ on the Wilson Glacier for our first camp. Conditions were spectacular for watching the sunset and the shadow of Mount Rainier extend off into the horizon.


The next morning we traveled for a couple hours to our high camp at around 11,000. We spent the afternoon reviewing knots, crevasse rescues, self arrest, and making sure our equipment was all set for our early departure the next morning.

Summit day started with a wake up call at 3:30 AM, then choke down some food and water, and off we headed at 4:30 AM. It was a short hike up, before we put on crampons, roped up, and headed up the Kautz Ice Shoot.


Our guide, Martin Volken, headed up the shoot to set up anchors and belay us up.


After the ice shoot, we slowly moved our way up the mountain, weaving our way around giant crevasses and crossing snow bridges. This is the stuff I wish I had photos of, but we were on a tight schedule and my entire focus was on keeping myself carefully moving forward.

By 8:45 AM we were on the summit at 14,411'. I was surprised at how complete my lack of interest was in taking photos at that time. All I wanted to do was sit.


We made our way back down to our high camp at 11,000', rested for a few hours, then worked our way back down to our low camp to spend one last night on the mountain. It was here that I enjoyed my last sunset from the side of the mountain, looking towards Mount Adams (second highest mountain in Washington State).


One last look back up at the mountain we had just climbed...


I intend to return next year with skis to aid in my descent and possibly a greater focus on photography.

coldclimb

Awesome! And great photos too, especially that shot of Mt. Adams.

I've found the single greatest help to my photography in the outdoors has been to keep the camera slung around my neck. It gets in the way sometimes and takes a bit of a beating, but when I see something that I feel like taking a picture of, however insignificant, I don't have to stop and get the camera out of a pack. Stopping is the last thing I want to do when I'm trying to get somewhere or enjoy myself in the mountains, and putting the camera in the pack, even if it's right at the very top and the easiest thing to get out, has stopped me from taking photos every single time I have done it.

Keep it up, and if you make it to Alaska look up me and Prezwoodz and we'll go have some fun!

dlplumer

clap

schmoo

Holy poop! I know it's hard to climb, and to add a camera to that has always made me wonder what superpowers coldclimb and Prezwoodz were born with.

What an awesome view from the top. Congrats and I hope that it gets easier from here on out!

greenpea

coldclimb wrote: »

Awesome! And great photos too, especially that shot of Mt. Adams.

I've found the single greatest help to my photography in the outdoors has been to keep the camera slung around my neck. It gets in the way sometimes and takes a bit of a beating, but when I see something that I feel like taking a picture of, however insignificant, I don't have to stop and get the camera out of a pack. Stopping is the last thing I want to do when I'm trying to get somewhere or enjoy myself in the mountains, and putting the camera in the pack, even if it's right at the very top and the easiest thing to get out, has stopped me from taking photos every single time I have done it.

Keep it up, and if you make it to Alaska look up me and Prezwoodz and we'll go have some fun!

Thanks John! I had my p&s strapped to my pack waist belt, on other trips I've also tried it clipped to my harness, or attached to my pack strap with a biner. One other stronger member of our group took a few pics while we were crossing some of the more interesting crevasses, but we really were not going to even so much as pause during the final slog. It was all about get up there and get down safely. I think I just need to get myself strong enough so that I don't have to put all my focus on one foot in front of the next.

As for Alaska, I would like to visit some time. Before this trip I had some aspirations in Denali, but after Rainier I think I'll keep my focus below 20K'. Maybe a ski descent of Mount St. Elias?

dlplumer wrote: »

clap

Thanks!

schmoo wrote: »

Holy poop! I know it's hard to climb, and to add a camera to that has always made me wonder what superpowers coldclimb and Prezwoodz were born with.

What an awesome view from the top. Congrats and I hope that it gets easier from here on out!

Thanks Schmoo! I'll build up to it, and maybe I can take a trip where we can spend a bit more time thinking about camera placement.

I have to say for this trip I even built a ice axe camera mount since I wouldn't be hauling a tripod. I only was able to futz around with it once.

ian408

Hey! I think we saw you guys in this post

Seriously though, that is quite an accomplishment. The view of Adams is amazing!

Well done (and nice job on the camera mount!).

greenpea

ian408 wrote: »

Hey! I think we saw you guys in this post

Seriously though, that is quite an accomplishment. The view of Adams is amazing!

Well done (and nice job on the camera mount!).

Thanks!

I could be wrong, but there does appear to be the lights from a number of climbers visible on your time lapse. None that I noticed on our route. You would be surprised how many people are coming and going on the top of the mountain.

Roaddog 52

Some great images. I really like the second to the last image, looking over the Cowlitz Chimnys at Mt Adams.

It has been at least 12 years since I last summited and I can relate to your statement,

I was surprised at how complete my lack of interest was in taking photos at that time. All I wanted to do was sit.

It can be a battle just making the last 100 feet or so, and knowing you won't be up there long you just want to get ready for the trip down.

All in all you were able to capture a lot more images than I ever did.

Tharhawk

Nice work! Martin is a good guy to take you up the mountain.

As for photography in the mountains, it is as much as being strong as smart. Learn when and where the good shots are and prepare for them. Take a few deep breaths, compose the scene as well as yourself and have fun. In the snow, it is very challenging to get the correct exposure. Always take pictures in all directions. Don't just focus on one...plus play with the shadows. They are your friends up there. After awhile, even when tired you can find standby's that you've learned are images you like. They take less energy to get. You pretty much point and shoot, knowing exactly what you are trying to get. It becomes especially easier when you've climbed the route or mountain many times.

While the volcanoes are nice, try some of the peaks if you haven't. They are much more satisfying...if often more difficult, even given their shorter stature, but immensely more lonely and remote than the often popular volcanoes, especially in the summer months by the standard routes.

greenpea

Roaddog 52 wrote: »

Some great images. I really like the second to the last image, looking over the Cowlitz Chimnys at Mt Adams.

It has been at least 12 years since I last summited and I can relate to your statement,

It can be a battle just making the last 100 feet or so, and knowing you won't be up there long you just want to get ready for the trip down.

All in all you were able to capture a lot more images than I ever did.

Thanks! It was an amazing trip, and I'm already planning next years return! I think the last 100 feet were the easiest, because then I could see the final goal, prior to that it was the ridgeline that you could never seem to reach; each time you thought you were at the ridge, it was just another false ridge line.

Here is the majority of the rest of the pictures if your interested:
http://www.initialphotography.com/Gorohoff/Outdoors/Mount-Rainier-Kautz-Route-2010

Tharhawk wrote: »

Nice work! Martin is a good guy to take you up the mountain.

As for photography in the mountains, it is as much as being strong as smart. Learn when and where the good shots are and prepare for them. Take a few deep breaths, compose the scene as well as yourself and have fun. In the snow, it is very challenging to get the correct exposure. Always take pictures in all directions. Don't just focus on one...plus play with the shadows. They are your friends up there. After awhile, even when tired you can find standby's that you've learned are images you like. They take less energy to get. You pretty much point and shoot, knowing exactly what you are trying to get. It becomes especially easier when you've climbed the route or mountain many times.

While the volcanoes are nice, try some of the peaks if you haven't. They are much more satisfying...if often more difficult, even given their shorter stature, but immensely more lonely and remote than the often popular volcanoes, especially in the summer months by the standard routes.

Thanks for the advice. I think if I want to really photograph a summit climb, it requires planning the trip around the photography. We started up at 4:30 AM and by the time we were on our way up the ice shoot the sun was well in the sky on the other side of the mountain. I think for a more photo focused trip at the end of July, a 1:00 AM start time might have been a better time to start.

As for volcanoes vs. other peaks, I'm trying to decide on what will be my last summit trip of the season Mt. Adams or Mt. Stuart. They both have their appeal, but I think my friends are more interested in Adams. For big interesting non-volcanic peaks; this winter I'm looking at a trip to Wheeler peak in Nevada on skis.

tgamron

Congratulations on your summit. I did Ingraham Direct, and the Emmons glacier route this summer. It's a pretty good work out huh?

greenpea

tgamron wrote: »

Congratulations on your summit. I did Ingraham Direct, and the Emmons glacier route this summer. It's a pretty good work out huh?

Summit day was pretty tough. I'm looking forward to doing the mountain again next Spring on skis, at least that way I won't have to hike back down

wpbarr

Marvelous photos!

greenpea

wpbarr wrote: »

Marvelous photos!

Thank you Bill!