Are you wanting maximum dynamic range (DR) in RAW capture or JPG capture?
The arguably best DR straight out of the camera at base ISO and in both RAW and JPG is the FujiFilm FinePix S5 dSLR. The FujiFilm FinePix S3 dSLR is also rather nice at base ISO. Both are older models now but they are capable of pretty amazing results, especially the JPG images.
DPReview claims almost 12 EV for the FinePix S5 JPGs.
While color accuracy will suffer with all cameras at the DR extremes, I perceive the Fuji S5 and the Nikon D3x to be the most accurate of the bunch, and the Nikon D3x certainly has the best overall software support.
Do not try to compare DR rankings from different sites as there is no absolute (or even standardized) method of DR measurement. Besides DPReview, DXOMark also has a system for measuring DR and they loosely confirm the DPReview results (but they do not test to the extremes and they do test with their own RAW converter.)
Are you wanting maximum dynamic range (DR) in RAW capture or JPG capture?
The arguably best DR straight out of the camera at base ISO and in both RAW and JPG is the FujiFilm FinePix S5 dSLR. The FujiFilm FinePix S3 dSLR is also rather nice at base ISO. Both are older models now but they are capable of pretty amazing results, especially the JPG images.
DPReview claims almost 12 EV for the FinePix S5 JPGs.
While color accuracy will suffer with all cameras at the DR extremes, I perceive the Fuji S5 and the Nikon D3x to be the most accurate of the bunch, and the Nikon D3x certainly has the best overall software support.
Do not try to compare DR rankings from different sites as there is no absolute (or even standardized) method of DR measurement. Besides DPReview, DXOMark also has a system for measuring DR and they loosely confirm the DPReview results (but they do not test to the extremes and they do test with their own RAW converter.)
Wow, ziggy, you just saved me quite a bit of searching. Thanks a bunch! I'm absolutely floored by these ev numbers. Shooting the D3x RAW is like a completely different camera than shooting the D3x in JPG. It's definitely a shame the S5 comes w/ such compromises on its sharpness. OOC JPGs seem to have stellar DR (and I *so* prefer to shoot jpg). Perhaps I should spend some time to figure out how to change my workflow to make raw a more manageable experience for me. I know it'd be worth it in the long run.
Remember that a typical print has not more than 7 EV. More DR is usually a benefit but it does tend to imply more post-processing time. The Fuji dSLRs tend to have less support in software processing from RAW files, and that could complicate your workflow.
My own approach is to try to control DR as much as is possible through siting and lighting control. If I can capture 9 EV or a little less, that's usually workable for my needs. Using techniques to control DR usually reaps benefits in the end result as well.
For landscapes, or other occasions where the DR is beyond expectations for output, I will use tone mapping and/or HDR techniques to try to gain control and get back to usable values.
For instance, this airplane was in bright sunlight and the tones were beyond my liking:
Mostly I wanted to bring up the lower and middle tones without bleaching the highlights too much or too quickly. I wound up creating 2 exposures in ACR and then tone blending layers in Photoshop to allow the highlights to stay within bounds.
The layer which had boosted lower and middle tones also had sharpening, vibrance and saturation adjustments. The layer which provided the highlights had few changes.
This image will never be more than a snapshot but I like the tones of the worked image better.
Comments
The arguably best DR straight out of the camera at base ISO and in both RAW and JPG is the FujiFilm FinePix S5 dSLR. The FujiFilm FinePix S3 dSLR is also rather nice at base ISO. Both are older models now but they are capable of pretty amazing results, especially the JPG images.
DPReview claims almost 12 EV for the FinePix S5 JPGs.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilms5pro/page18.asp
The Sony Alpha a-900 (and a-850) FF cameras offer up to 12.6 EV with specialized RAW processing in ACR.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonydslra900/page24.asp
The Nikon D3s can post 12.2 EV from RAW:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond3s/page20.asp
The Nikon D3x can also post in the 12s from RAW:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond3x/page21.asp
While color accuracy will suffer with all cameras at the DR extremes, I perceive the Fuji S5 and the Nikon D3x to be the most accurate of the bunch, and the Nikon D3x certainly has the best overall software support.
Do not try to compare DR rankings from different sites as there is no absolute (or even standardized) method of DR measurement. Besides DPReview, DXOMark also has a system for measuring DR and they loosely confirm the DPReview results (but they do not test to the extremes and they do test with their own RAW converter.)
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
A recent jpg/RAW discussion here - if not already seen / aware...
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=174553
pp
Flickr
My own approach is to try to control DR as much as is possible through siting and lighting control. If I can capture 9 EV or a little less, that's usually workable for my needs. Using techniques to control DR usually reaps benefits in the end result as well.
For landscapes, or other occasions where the DR is beyond expectations for output, I will use tone mapping and/or HDR techniques to try to gain control and get back to usable values.
For instance, this airplane was in bright sunlight and the tones were beyond my liking:
Mostly I wanted to bring up the lower and middle tones without bleaching the highlights too much or too quickly. I wound up creating 2 exposures in ACR and then tone blending layers in Photoshop to allow the highlights to stay within bounds.
The layer which had boosted lower and middle tones also had sharpening, vibrance and saturation adjustments. The layer which provided the highlights had few changes.
This image will never be more than a snapshot but I like the tones of the worked image better.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums