Here is what I use for a charger and batts. http://www.batteryspace.com/ch-v698810channelssmartcharger10pcsaa2600mahnimhcells--photographerspecial.aspx this charger is great because it slow charges and also has a discharge function if you want to do a full cycle on your batts. Slow charging is better for your batts than fast charging. Each of the 10 spots cycles independently so when 1 of the 10 spaces is charged it shuts off. I own two of these and I highly recomend them. the down side is that if you forget to charge batts the night before you are kinda screwed. The full charge cycle takes around 12 hours. I have done a partial charge of only 4 or 5 hours and it doesn't seem to make a huge difference. I think the last several hours is a small percentage of the actual charge. You can buy one of these charges alone for $22, one with 10 2600mah batts for $36, or one with 20 batts for $48. Good deals imho. The powerizer batts are very good too. I have better luck with them than buying the more expensive name brand rechargeables. I am on my 3rd season with these powereizer batts and still going strong.
Going back to the black box..I noticed the tuxedo version comes with a clip to clip to your belt. Does the black box use the same one? I am assuming you would make sure the cable is long enough, attach it to you and your flash and then go. I go through so many batteries, and it is such a pain. jrmyrnsm- i can't see a picture in your post. Also, do you ever have issues with the flashes not being able to communicate with each other because of distance and things/people in the way? Going to look to see how long the tuxedo lasts. This has been a great thread!
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Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
Here is what I use for a charger and batts. http://www.batteryspace.com/ch-v698810channelssmartcharger10pcsaa2600mahnimhcells--photographerspecial.aspx this charger is great because it slow charges and also has a discharge function if you want to do a full cycle on your batts. Slow charging is better for your batts than fast charging. Each of the 10 spots cycles independently so when 1 of the 10 spaces is charged it shuts off. I own two of these and I highly recomend them. the down side is that if you forget to charge batts the night before you are kinda screwed. The full charge cycle takes around 12 hours. I have done a partial charge of only 4 or 5 hours and it doesn't seem to make a huge difference. I think the last several hours is a small percentage of the actual charge. You can buy one of these charges alone for $22, one with 10 2600mah batts for $36, or one with 20 batts for $48. Good deals imho. The powerizer batts are very good too. I have better luck with them than buying the more expensive name brand rechargeables. I am on my 3rd season with these powereizer batts and still going strong.
Matt
That is an AWESOME deal! (If the charger lives a long life, of course. Ready any long-term reviews of the product?)
Personally I enjoy the LCD readout on my La Crosse BC700 chargers, it tells the voltage, the charging current, the total current / capacity, and some other nifty things. It's really reassuring to be able to SEE that my 2600 mAh battery actually has ~2600 mAh of charge... (Or in the case of SOME batteries, *cough*Calumet*cough* ...it was enlightening to discover that many of my 2700 mAh batteries were actually barely holding 1600-1800 worth of charge. And I was wondering why my flashes had started to die so quickly!
And in addition to a discharge cycle, the La Crosse has a "refresh" cycle that discharges and charges over and over again (at the slowest possible current) ...until the capacity has improved as much as it can. I actually had some batteries that I bought back in 2004, that had been rendered worthless by other chargers, come back to life and work fantastically. :-)
Thanks for the tip Matt about the Powerizer batteries! I'm done buying expensive rechargheables, they never seem to live up to their claimed capacity...
Going back to the black box..I noticed the tuxedo version comes with a clip to clip to your belt. Does the black box use the same one? I am assuming you would make sure the cable is long enough, attach it to you and your flash and then go. I go through so many batteries, and it is such a pain. jrmyrnsm- i can't see a picture in your post. Also, do you ever have issues with the flashes not being able to communicate with each other because of distance and things/people in the way? Going to look to see how long the tuxedo lasts. This has been a great thread!
I honestly have to say that a belt-attached battery is one of the worst ideas since the flash bracket. It's just begging to tangle and yank your camera towards the ground that is inevitably concrete at the time.
If you need that much power / life in your on-camera flash, I honestly think you might be using too much on-camera flash. And if it's because the ceiling is really high or something, I'd rather set up 2-3 wireless flashes and shoot them bare & direct at 1/16 power, than risk exploding my on-camera flash at 1/1 power for every single shot. (And if you're shooting in TTL, remember that's two pops for each picture, right? Or is that not how TTL works anymore?)
Just my opinionated personal opinion. I would only use battery packs for remote flashes.
I honestly have to say that a belt-attached battery is one of the worst ideas since the flash bracket. It's just begging to tangle and yank your camera towards the ground that is inevitably concrete at the time.
If you need that much power / life in your on-camera flash, I honestly think you might be using too much on-camera flash. And if it's because the ceiling is really high or something, I'd rather set up 2-3 wireless flashes and shoot them bare & direct at 1/16 power, than risk exploding my on-camera flash at 1/1 power for every single shot. (And if you're shooting in TTL, remember that's two pops for each picture, right? Or is that not how TTL works anymore?)
Just my opinionated personal opinion. I would only use battery packs for remote flashes.
=Matt=
I have the pleasure of always shooting huge rooms with really high ceilings, which was why I brought up the off camera flash (this is for receptions). But I think you may be right, putting the battery packs on the wireless flash. Looks like he has a rig for that too. I think that is what I am going to do. Now, back to the radio transmitters. Looks like the ones you use are pretty good. I watched his video and like that you can still use the flash on your camera. Any other advice that isn't on his website?
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Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
I have the pleasure of always shooting huge rooms with really high ceilings, which was why I brought up the off camera flash (this is for receptions). But I think you may be right, putting the battery packs on the wireless flash. Looks like he has a rig for that too. I think that is what I am going to do. Now, back to the radio transmitters. Looks like the ones you use are pretty good. I watched his video and like that you can still use the flash on your camera. Any other advice that isn't on his website?
Not sure who you're talking about. But I use radio triggers I got from Scott Robert Lim. He gets them from eBay originally, and although I don't know which ones are reliable and which ones are crap, but others others may know. It's some Chinese make.
For reception: one flash on camera (w/ Lightsphere) as the master and one or two flashes on lightstands (with lightspheres) through out the room as slaves. It works well.
Heather,
You are using Radio Poppers on your slave flashes for the reception, right.
Remember, no one may want you to take pictures, but they all want to see them. Educate yourself like you'll live forever and live like you'll die tomorrow.
Hello! I am sure that this is in the wrong area, but so new to the forums and cant start a new thread? Anyways....someone asked me to photograph their daughters christening this weekend. I have a Nikon d40, with lens 50mm 1.4, 70-300, 18-55, 50-200. I am thinking since the lighting is dim, that my best bet is to shoot with the 50 mm lens? I usually shoot in A....and know that I will need to shoot in M. Can anyone tell me what settings I should put my camera in to get the best results? Usually my photos come out so dark in a church.....I do have a speedlight, so maybe should use that as well? Of course wont be able to bounce off the ceilings...lol...maybe Ill put my diffuser on it? Any suggestions will be much appreciated!
Thanks!
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Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
Hello! I am sure that this is in the wrong area, but so new to the forums and cant start a new thread? Anyways....someone asked me to photograph their daughters christening this weekend. I have a Nikon d40, with lens 50mm 1.4, 70-300, 18-55, 50-200. I am thinking since the lighting is dim, that my best bet is to shoot with the 50 mm lens? I usually shoot in A....and know that I will need to shoot in M. Can anyone tell me what settings I should put my camera in to get the best results? Usually my photos come out so dark in a church.....I do have a speedlight, so maybe should use that as well? Of course wont be able to bounce off the ceilings...lol...maybe Ill put my diffuser on it? Any suggestions will be much appreciated!
Thanks!
Hi Tate,
Odd question for this discussion, but yes the answer is what you think it is. Get that 50mm prime on the D40, and just practice shooting in low light. Aperture priority might work just fine if there isn't too much contrast in the scene you're photographing, but yes learning manual will help when things get complicated. Just put the camera in manual and practice. The pictures might come out a little grainy, but at least you'll be learning! I always did prefer a grainy B&W image for low-light situations, anyways... :-)
My last wedding was not fit for bounce flash so I was worried about the wedding I shot on the 15th. I did use off camera flash for the reception and for now, I am loving what I can do with it!! Obviously, I went through more batteries than normal but I still had plenty at the end of the day. I am happy I decided to try this and am going to use it in the future. Not for everything but I can't wait to mess around with it more. Thanks for all the advice and examples..you guys are the best!
Going back to the black box..I noticed the tuxedo version comes with a clip to clip to your belt. Does the black box use the same one? I am assuming you would make sure the cable is long enough, attach it to you and your flash and then go. I go through so many batteries, and it is such a pain. jrmyrnsm- i can't see a picture in your post. Also, do you ever have issues with the flashes not being able to communicate with each other because of distance and things/people in the way? Going to look to see how long the tuxedo lasts. This has been a great thread!
I know it's old, but I have owned both black boxes and the tux versions.
Personally I just sold my black boxes and bought after market cpe4 for the canon flashes.
I bought them from china at 60 bucks a piece. They match canons to the t
And hold 8aa batteries.
For aa I use low discharge batteries.
AL black boxes are really good, but they are very heavy. The tux version does not have all the power and if u are lucky u might get 400 full power flashes. That to me is like 4 aa
Also his packs are ment to be on the charger 24-7 when not used.
The low dis charge batteries hold almost 80 percent after a year.
So u can keep them in your bag or flash and always be ready to go.
Comments
Matt
Bodies: Canon 5d mkII, 5d, 40d
Lenses: 24-70 f2.8L, 70-200 f4.0L, 135 f2L, 85 f1.8, 50 1.8, 100 f2.8 macro, Tamron 28-105 f2.8
Flash: 2x 580 exII, Canon ST-E2, 2x Pocket Wizard flexTT5, and some lower end studio strobes
Personally I enjoy the LCD readout on my La Crosse BC700 chargers, it tells the voltage, the charging current, the total current / capacity, and some other nifty things. It's really reassuring to be able to SEE that my 2600 mAh battery actually has ~2600 mAh of charge... (Or in the case of SOME batteries, *cough*Calumet*cough* ...it was enlightening to discover that many of my 2700 mAh batteries were actually barely holding 1600-1800 worth of charge. And I was wondering why my flashes had started to die so quickly!
And in addition to a discharge cycle, the La Crosse has a "refresh" cycle that discharges and charges over and over again (at the slowest possible current) ...until the capacity has improved as much as it can. I actually had some batteries that I bought back in 2004, that had been rendered worthless by other chargers, come back to life and work fantastically. :-)
Thanks for the tip Matt about the Powerizer batteries! I'm done buying expensive rechargheables, they never seem to live up to their claimed capacity...
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
If you need that much power / life in your on-camera flash, I honestly think you might be using too much on-camera flash. And if it's because the ceiling is really high or something, I'd rather set up 2-3 wireless flashes and shoot them bare & direct at 1/16 power, than risk exploding my on-camera flash at 1/1 power for every single shot. (And if you're shooting in TTL, remember that's two pops for each picture, right? Or is that not how TTL works anymore?)
Just my opinionated personal opinion. I would only use battery packs for remote flashes.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
I have the pleasure of always shooting huge rooms with really high ceilings, which was why I brought up the off camera flash (this is for receptions). But I think you may be right, putting the battery packs on the wireless flash. Looks like he has a rig for that too. I think that is what I am going to do. Now, back to the radio transmitters. Looks like the ones you use are pretty good. I watched his video and like that you can still use the flash on your camera. Any other advice that isn't on his website?
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Heather,
You are using Radio Poppers on your slave flashes for the reception, right.
Educate yourself like you'll live forever and live like you'll die tomorrow.
Ed
Great gallery and comments, mmmatt. Thank you.
Lovely shots, too Qarik.
Thanks!
Odd question for this discussion, but yes the answer is what you think it is. Get that 50mm prime on the D40, and just practice shooting in low light. Aperture priority might work just fine if there isn't too much contrast in the scene you're photographing, but yes learning manual will help when things get complicated. Just put the camera in manual and practice. The pictures might come out a little grainy, but at least you'll be learning! I always did prefer a grainy B&W image for low-light situations, anyways... :-)
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
I setup two 580ex on stands along with battery packs and px receivers.
Owner/Photographer
Expose The Moment
Had a list of gear, now its to long, so lets say I have 2 bags and 15,000 worth of stuff.
I know it's old, but I have owned both black boxes and the tux versions.
Personally I just sold my black boxes and bought after market cpe4 for the canon flashes.
I bought them from china at 60 bucks a piece. They match canons to the t
And hold 8aa batteries.
For aa I use low discharge batteries.
AL black boxes are really good, but they are very heavy. The tux version does not have all the power and if u are lucky u might get 400 full power flashes. That to me is like 4 aa
Also his packs are ment to be on the charger 24-7 when not used.
The low dis charge batteries hold almost 80 percent after a year.
So u can keep them in your bag or flash and always be ready to go.
Owner/Photographer
Expose The Moment
Had a list of gear, now its to long, so lets say I have 2 bags and 15,000 worth of stuff.