Constant focusing failures are turning me into a miserable human being.

SimplyShane

Okay, so maybe the title is a bit over-dramatic.

However, it is true that my 50mm f/1.8 Canon lens gives me so much trouble at apertures lower than f/4, that I'm quite tempted to smash it into the ground and forget I ever purchased the thing. I initially bought it thinking that this would be my answer to a much-needed portrait lens. However, it seems I was dead wrong.

Here's the facts: The auto-focus is spotty at best. Every other shot seems to be slightly blurred and it angers me greatly.

**Greatly.**

(And yes, I already know about the issue of Focusing and Recomposing at lower apertures. I do my best to try and align the area I want in focus with a corresponding AF point.)

But even that is an exercise in frustration. It SEVERELY limits your compositional freedom and forces you to make compromises you shouldn't have to make. I can't count the amount of times I've had a scene that just so happens to have the area I want in focus either outside my AF range altogether or in-between my points. It's just plain stupid.

---

So what of Manual Focus?

Well, that's also a joke. Especially on my Canon Rebel XS. It's viewfinder isn't exactly large and can be a touch dim at times. Furthermore, without a split-prism screen, focusing by hand always seems like a guessing game. Yeah, you can wait for the "beep" and the red light to blink, but that usually takes WAY too long to happen. By the time I'm focused in, my subject has already changed or moved, which alters things once more.

---

The ONLY solution I've found to this garbage is Live View. However, while it is dead-on accurate, it also takes a great deal of time to set up and seems to work the best with a tripod and a still subject. Yes, you can attempt to use the DSLR as a point and shoot and hold it away from your face while focusing through the LCD screen, but that's just a really sloppy way of doing things. Chances are, you'll at least end up with a slightly blurred shot. (Especially since my 50mm does NOT have Image Stabilization.)

---

So, with all that being said, **IS** there an answer for this? I'm at the point now where I really am desperate. I've missed a *lot* of shots with this lens (I'm guessing as much as 30 to 40), and I'm not going to take it anymore.

I hope it's just something I'm doing on my end. As much as I hate this little piece of crap, when it works, it truly is brilliant.

(Thank you in advance for reading and responding to this. Sorry for annoying you all once more.)

richtersl

I appreciate your frustration with that lens. I had purchased it as well but returned it to the vendor because of the focusing problems at the lower apertures. It really pi$$ed me off because I'd purchased the darn thing for its low light capabilities and if it couldn't focus consistently at those settings then it was useless. But like you, I found that when it worked it was brilliant.

I replaced mine with the Canon 35mm f/2.0, which I love. It was a little more money but it gets the job done. I also didn't care for the focal length of the 50mm f/1.8 so between that and the inconsistent focusing, it wasn't worth keeping even though the price was "right".

The 50mm f/1.8 has many admirers. But I'm not one of them and apparently neither are you.

Sam

Shane,

You have an entry level DLSR and a cheap $100.00 lens. This system will have more limitations and faults than a high end system. But be aware nothing made today is perfect! You need to learn to work within your budget and equipment limitations.

One solution is a Canon 1DIV, and a Canon 50mm 1.4 or a 35mm 1.4. This set up will give you one of the best focusing systems currently available, and with the higher end lenses better focusing and quality.

Your other option, if you don't have a spare $4500.00 to 5000.00, is to perhaps try a 50mm 1.4 and see if that helps at all.

Also you are doomed to a life of frustration if you expect your equipment to function beyond it's capabilities, and if you want to somehow miraculously circumvent the laws of physics.

One example: If say your want to shoot at 1.8 with that lens and can't get a focus point to line up without focus and recompose, stop down to compensate for the shallow depth of field. There is no choice but to figure out what your gear will and won't do and work within that.

This among other reasons are why people spend big bucks on higher end gear, but realize even the best most expensive gear has it's limitations.

Concentrate on capturing your image artistically and creatively within your equipments capabilities.

I have seen stunning work produced with some pretty basic equipment.

Not what you wanted to hear, but what I see.

Sam

reyvee61

I was going to suggest that there might be something wrong with the lens but Sam brings up a good point yet you would think that even entry level gear would perform as prescribed...

Vagebond

The center focus point is the most sensitive point, so you should use focus point selection to select only the center one in low light.

As far as half-press, recompose and shoot, there is an option to change the '*' button on the back of the camera to focus the camera (instead of '*' locking exposure), leaving the half-press of the shutter button to exposure only. Check out your manual, Custom Settings option 09. Some people love it, others hate it.

anonymouscuban

I used to have a Sigma 30mm f/1.4. I struggled a lot with focus when shooting wide open or large apertures. It took me a little while to realize that it wasn't the lens. It was that the DOF is so shallow and the focal range so small that any slight movement after setting focus would cause the shot to be blurred. Focusing and then recomposing is completely out of the question. At these shallow apertures, you need to use a single focus point and move that point around with the frame to the position where you want the focus to be. For example... with a portrait... I'd compose my shot, move the focus point over the person's eye, then focus and immediately shoot. This resulted in really sharp pics with nice bokeh.

Sam

Vagebond wrote: »

The center focus point is the most sensitive point, so you should use focus point selection to select only the center one in low light.

As far as half-press, recompose and shoot, there is an option to change the '*' button on the back of the camera to focus the camera (instead of '*' locking exposure), leaving the half-press of the shutter button to exposure only. Check out your manual, Custom Settings option 09. Some people love it, others hate it.

Using the * button to focus doesn't help if you have to recompose. It won't matter if you use the press the shutter button half way, or the * button if you still have to recompose. with a small to razor thin DOF focus and recompose will not work. If you have to use the center focus point, but the composition is't what you would like try shooting wider and cropping.

Sam

cmason

Frankly in low light all lenses suffer. I find using the ST-E2 helps tremendously, and I do not mean using the flash to light the scene, but using the IR sensor to help the lens focus.

craig_d

I haven't used a Rebel XS, but as others have noted it is the bottom of Canon's line and I wouldn't expect it to have a really classy AF system, even compared to something like a Rebel T2i.

What I can tell you is that I've used both the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 and the EF 50mm f/1.4 USM on my 5D Mark II (yes, much higher-end camera, not at all comparable to a Rebel) and even at very wide apertures I find AF to be quite reliable. I don't think I've used the f/1.8 in really poor light, but in just ordinary indoor daytime light it does fine. The f/1.4 I have used at f/1.4 in the worst light I've ever tried to shoot in -- a restaurant in San Francisco lit only by small, candle-like light bulbs spaced around the walls. It was so dark in there that I had to hold my menu up to one of the little lights just to be able to read it. Nevertheless, my 5D2 with the 50mm f/1.4 focused accurately and quickly when I took a few pictures of my dinner companions. I wasn't using any external focus assistance, either.

So I think your difficulties come down to one of the following: (1) Your lens is defective; (2) Your camera's AF system is inadequate; or (3) You're doing something wrong.

reyvee61

cmason wrote: »

Frankly in low light all lenses suffer. I find using the ST-E2 helps tremendously, and I do not mean using the flash to light the scene, but using the IR sensor to help the lens focus.

Of course that all depends on the body you have, some models such as the D700 and the 5DM2 do really well in low light even with slower glass.
I'm one to always shoot with natural light indoors and my D700 50MM 1.8 combo never lets me down.

When I used to soot with the D80, using the IR from the SB800 was a big help....

reyvee61

[QUOTE}So I think your difficulties come down to one of the following: (1) Your lens is defective; (2) Your camera's AF system is inadequate; or (3) You're doing something wrong.[/QUOTE]

I think all of the triple digit Canons have poor autofocus in low light compared to the single digit models and in fact it wasn't till recently that Canon added more focus points that Nikon users have been used to for years.

My friend has the 400 and 450D but it wasn't until her recent purchase of the 7D that I noticed a leap in autofocus capabilites in low light.

richtersl

I did try using mine under all sorts of lighting conditions trying to get it to work consistently. I shot like 50 frames with it and not even half were in focus. It didn't even focus well manually. When I tested the 35mm f/2.0 all the shots came out in focus. Maybe I had a defective one, but I really didn't feel like trying to find out.

But the f/1.8 has gotten good reviews. So go figure!

Nikolai

I'm with Sam on this.
If we rule out defective hardware (while it still might be the case that you got a defective copy), using an entry level body with an entry level lens and expect them to work like a $5K..$8K combo in low light situations is naive at best.

OTOH I have used 50/1.8 for a few years on a mid-level bodies (20D/30D/50D/50D/60D) until I replaced it with 50/1.4. Its AF is slow as hell (probably the only lens worse than it was the kit lens I bought with my first 20D), but if you use it with a decent lighting it can work.

Bottomline: you get what you pay for. There is a reason why 50/1.8, 50/1.4 and 50/1.2 prices are in the order of magnitude different. You would't try to enter F-1 race on a tricycle, why photo gear should be any different?

Peace, brother!

SimplyShane

richtersl wrote: »

I did try using mine under all sorts of lighting conditions trying to get it to work consistently. I shot like 50 frames with it and not even half were in focus. It didn't even focus well manually. When I tested the 35mm f/2.0 all the shots came out in focus. Maybe I had a defective one, but I really didn't feel like trying to find out.

But the f/1.8 has gotten good reviews. So go figure!

Thank you!

I'm not alone...

The thing is:: I've used this lens in decent lighting. More than decent actually. I've had this thing fail even with the daylight that passes through our windows.

I'm starting to really believe that my copy is faulty. Even when the focus is aligned on a given AF point, it still sometimes focuses behind the subject. The only way the lens focuses properly every single time is with Live View. That's it.

And obviously, this is far from acceptable.

SimplyShane

richtersl wrote: »

I appreciate your frustration with that lens. I had purchased it as well but returned it to the vendor because of the focusing problems at the lower apertures. It really pi$$ed me off because I'd purchased the darn thing for its low light capabilities and if it couldn't focus consistently at those settings then it was useless. But like you, I found that when it worked it was brilliant.

I replaced mine with the Canon 35mm f/2.0, which I love. It was a little more money but it gets the job done. I also didn't care for the focal length of the 50mm f/1.8 so between that and the inconsistent focusing, it wasn't worth keeping even though the price was "right".

The 50mm f/1.8 has many admirers. But I'm not one of them and apparently neither are you.

---

I once had a 35mm f 1.8 for my old D40 and I loved that thing. Never had any focusing issues to speak of.

Hmm....I should really look into that.

SimplyShane

Nikolai wrote: »

I'm with Sam on this.
If we rule out defective hardware (while it still might be the case that you got a defective copy), using an entry level body with an entry level lens and expect them to work like a $5K..$8K combo in low light situations is naive at best.

OTOH I have used 50/1.8 for a few years on a mid-level bodies (20D/30D/50D/50D/60D) until I replaced it with 50/1.4. Its AF is slow as hell (probably the only lens worse than it was the kit lens I bought with my first 20D), but if you use it with a decent lighting it can work.

Bottomline: you get what you pay for. There is a reason why 50/1.8, 50/1.4 and 50/1.2 prices are in the order of magnitude different. You would't try to enter F-1 race on a tricycle, why photo gear should be any different?

Peace, brother!

Thanks for the response...

I must clarify:: This lens has also failed in well-lit indoor environments and even in bright outdoor settings. The thing just has a tendency to botch focus...Period.

SimplyShane

anonymouscuban wrote: »

I used to have a Sigma 30mm f/1.4. I struggled a lot with focus when shooting wide open or large apertures. It took me a little while to realize that it wasn't the lens. It was that the DOF is so shallow and the focal range so small that any slight movement after setting focus would cause the shot to be blurred. Focusing and then recomposing is completely out of the question. At these shallow apertures, you need to use a single focus point and move that point around with the frame to the position where you want the focus to be. For example... with a portrait... I'd compose my shot, move the focus point over the person's eye, then focus and immediately shoot. This resulted in really sharp pics with nice bokeh.

But what if there are NO points that cover the eye?

This has happened to me a number of times and I don't feel as though my compositions are all that bizarre...(And even if they were, the camera should still be able to support that.)

SimplyShane

Sam wrote: »

Shane,

You have an entry level DLSR and a cheap $100.00 lens. This system will have more limitations and faults than a high end system. But be aware nothing made today is perfect! You need to learn to work within your budget and equipment limitations.

One solution is a Canon 1DIV, and a Canon 50mm 1.4 or a 35mm 1.4. This set up will give you one of the best focusing systems currently available, and with the higher end lenses better focusing and quality.

Your other option, if you don't have a spare $4500.00 to 5000.00, is to perhaps try a 50mm 1.4 and see if that helps at all.

Also you are doomed to a life of frustration if you expect your equipment to function beyond it's capabilities, and if you want to somehow miraculously circumvent the laws of physics.

One example: If say your want to shoot at 1.8 with that lens and can't get a focus point to line up without focus and recompose, stop down to compensate for the shallow depth of field. There is no choice but to figure out what your gear will and won't do and work within that.

This among other reasons are why people spend big bucks on higher end gear, but realize even the best most expensive gear has it's limitations.

Concentrate on capturing your image artistically and creatively within your equipments capabilities.

I have seen stunning work produced with some pretty basic equipment.

Not what you wanted to hear, but what I see.

Sam

Thanks for the reply Sam. I appreciate it...

I agree that I may be asking a bit much, but when the lens fails to find focus even when the interior of a building is bright and well-lit, then I think there's a problem.

Would using my pop-up flash as an assist help? Probably not, but it's worth asking I suppose.

Hmm....maybe a monopod would allow me to use Live View a little more effectively? That would still be a royal pain in the arse, but it at least gives me a bit more mobility than a tripod and allows me some measure of support...

*sigh*

Brett1000

SimplyShane wrote: »

.

I agree that I may be asking a bit much, but when the lens fails to find focus even when the interior of a building is bright and well-lit, then I think there's a problem.


*sigh*

My 50mm 1.8 with an XSi/450D focuses fast and accurate in reasonably well lit places - it takes great portraits!

aj986s

FWIW, have you been able to validate which focusing points the camera used to take the picture? I believe you see by viewing in-camera via one of the display modes. If out of the camera, I believe one of the Canon provided softwares is able to also show you focus points from the EXIF.

Surface textures, or even lack thereof, can sometime confuse the focusing process. And Nikolai mentions the slow AF of the lens. Is it possible that some shots are focusing on the correct spot (as would be validated by the EXIF data) but that the AF hasn't locked on yet? Also as mentioned, low light makes focusing even more challenging. Using the popup flash might actually help because the focusing would also use the AF Assist Light. You could then use the flash exposure compensation to reduce the amount of flash being provided to make it look less intrusive.

zoomer

I did not read all the responses, if somebody already said this my bad.
Use continuous focus and manage your focus point to be on the eyes and the eyes will be in focus.

I was having the same problem you are, switched to continuous tracking focus, problem solved.

Sam

Shane,

Send me your lens. Seriously, send it to me, and I will do back to back tests with yours and mine.

This will eliminate the lens question, one way or another!

Sam

richtersl

Sam wrote: »

Shane,

Send me your lens. Seriously, send it to me, and I will do back to back tests with yours and mine.

This will eliminate the lens question, one way or another!

Sam

Shane, this sounds like a great idea. If you follow up with it, I'd be very curious to see what Sam's findings are.

SimplyShane

Sam wrote: »

Shane,

Send me your lens. Seriously, send it to me, and I will do back to back tests with yours and mine.

This will eliminate the lens question, one way or another!

Sam

PM sent.

Sam

SimplyShane wrote: »

PM sent.

PM answered.

Sam

angevin1

richtersl wrote: »

Shane, this sounds like a great idea. If you follow up with it, I'd be very curious to see what Sam's findings are.

10/4 good idea!

Otherwise if you really hate it, junk it, and get another!

reyvee61

Will be eagerly awaiting the results :-)

Nikolai

Sam's a good man!bow
OTOH, so much fuss over a piece of plastic that goes for $70 new, $40..$50 LNIB. dunno
I would go to a nearest photo store, asked for one or two to try live, check it out in 2 minutes and be done with it. I actually did that when I bought mine.

Sam

Nikolai wrote: »

Sam's a good man!bow
OTOH, so much fuss over a piece of plastic that goes for $70 new, $40..$50 LNIB. dunno
I would go to a nearest photo store, asked for one or two to try live, check it out in 2 minutes and be done with it. I actually did that when I bought mine.

Nikolai,

Grasshopper..........open your eyes.......:D.......it's not so about this specific lens, but for Shane to know if it's user error or equipment.

This really applies to all of us. Once we know what the issue is we can focus on fixing it, and eliminate the angst.

Sam

richtersl

Nikolai wrote: »

Sam's a good man!bow
OTOH, so much fuss over a piece of plastic that goes for $70 new, $40..$50 LNIB. dunno
I would go to a nearest photo store, asked for one or two to try live, check it out in 2 minutes and be done with it. I actually did that when I bought mine.

$70 new????? I want to know where you shop! Because I want to shop there too!!!

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-USA/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html

Nikolai

Sam wrote: »

Nikolai,

Grasshopper..........open your eyes.......:D.......it's not so about this specific lens, but for Shane to know if it's user error or equipment.

This really applies to all of us. Once we know what the issue is we can focus on fixing it, and eliminate the angst.

Sam

Sam, I understand that, all I'm saying that it should be fairly simple/easy to check one's equipment at a local store.