T2i Initial Kit Suggestions
PAST EXPERIENCE:
I don’t know much about the technical aspects of photography so forgive my ignorance. I’ve been doing some preliminary research on this forum, and many other sites, in the hopes of buying a dslr camera system.
As a result of selling online since 1999 I’ve taken many thousands of photos of the merchandise that I sell, which can range from one-of-a-kind antiques to large lots of items. All of these photos have been taken with point-and-shoot cameras, starting with a Kodak 2MB DC3400 that I bought new back in 1999-2000 for $350.00 (and yes it still works). From there I moved up to 6 MB consumer models for better detail. I recently tried some newer point-and-shoots and was frankly appalled at the build and image quality so I think its time to move up to a dslr and keep the point-and-shoots for “dirty job” in-the-field cameras.
For collectibles and antiques I typically need to take several shots of an item (top, bottom side, etc...). I also need to snap close-ups of any defective areas as condition is everything with antiques. For macro items I’ve use old Umax scanners which allow you to scan 3-d objects - unlike many of the newer scanners which have no depth of field. I find the scanner approach very effective as I can scan items several times their actual size; these used scanners are very cheap ($1.00 or so); and essentially the scanner completes all the scanning “jobs” in the background on its own while I do other things. I may; however, want to explore taking at least some of these shots with a dslr camera.
My current camera shooting area consists of a 8’ x 4’ sheet of hard white plastic formed into a curved L-shape against a wall so that it provides a continuous surface of white foreground and background (this thick washable sheet is used in the construction trade and costs about $20.00). For items that would look better on a black background I use a large piece of washable thick black matte material attached to a roller so that it can be unrolled down and over the white plastic piece (which forms a stiff base under the black cloth). For lighting I use two inexpensive clip-on lamps in the front of the table and two extension-arm lamps in the back, all with softer compact fluorescent bulbs. Since the lights are projecting toward the objects from different directions they tend to cancel each other ‘s shadows out and kill off any harsh shadowing you would get from a light source from one directions. When the camera’s flash fires it usually eliminates most of the remaining light cross shadowing from the lights - not exactly a pro shooting booth, but it gets the job done cheaply, lol.
My typical shooting style can be described as “mass production”. I typically place several items on my shooting surface at once and continue to reposition and shoot items until I can move onto the next group of items. Most items are shot head-on in a standing position while others require the use of a small step stool for a more overhead shot as this will crop better (i.e., leave less white space around the object when cropped). As I’ve already examined the items for defects the shots I take are a mixture of full body shots and close-ups of areas of interest (i.e., damage or wear) .
INITIAL DSLR TESTING:
I brought my own memory card into a local store and tested a Canon T1i and a Nikon D5000. Image quality looked similar in Photoshop CS, but I decided to go with Canon due to the bundled software, especially the software which supposedly allows one to control the camera from your computer (an Apple in this case). I got sidetracked with other things for awhile and since Canon came out with the T2i in the mean time I also tested that. I only see some slight image quality and contrast improvements over the T1i, but decided to go with the T2i for the extra cropping area, new lcd, and perhaps the upgraded video (although I am not sure I will use that).
I also investigated a 5D, but only online as I’d probably have to drive over hundred miles to find a store that has one to test in person. I found the image tests below interesting, but decided not to go with the 5D as its probably overkill for what I doing and I somehow don’t like the idea of lugging around such an expensive camera during one of my fast paced shooting sessions - sure enough I’d experience my first camera drop with it.
T1i:
http://216.18.212.226/PRODS/T1I/FULLRES/T1IhSLI00100.JPG
T2i:
http://216.18.212.226/PRODS/T2I/FULLRES/T2IhSLI00100_NR2D.JPG
5D:
http://216.18.212.226/PRODS/E5D2/FULLRES/E5D2hSLI00100.JPG
PROPOSED KIT:
1. T2i with 18-55mm kit.
I tested the camera with this lens on it and it seems to work fine for most of what I currently want out of the camera. I liked how close it can get you ( 9.8” minimum focusing rating). Actual real life shooting with the camera; however, will be in a room with two curtained windows and several soft light lamps as opposed to a brightly lit store however.
2. Canon BG-E8 Battery Grip for Canon T2i Digital SLR Cameras.
This is a must have as using rechargeable AA saves a fortune in shooting costs. I don’t think I’d buy this camera if the AA option was not available. I’ve seen other 3rd party grips, but decided to go with the Canon as I’ve seen some reviews of 3rd party grips talking about the outer surface of the grip “pealing off” and manufacturing tolerance problems with the battery holders. Also the Canon would probably have a better resale value.
3. Kit Replacement Lens (?):
I’ve read various suggestions and reviews as to a replacement lens for the kit lens, but they all seem to have a catch:
For example; the EF-S 17-55mm 2.8 IS USM is described as a sharp lens (http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-17-55mm-f-2.8-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx), but then the referenced review includes the following information which seems to suggest that the lens would be useless as I need to get close:
“This lens is sharp! Wide open and from edge to edge. Unless the distance is close that is - I'm finding that close subjects do not produce the same image sharpness as normal distance subjects.”
Another lens often suggested is the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens as its supposed to be great in low light; very sharp for its price; and I’ve seen it recommended for use with extension tubes for macro-type work. Its minimum focus rating of 17.7” (as opposed to 9.8” for the kit lens) is of concern, as well as the fact that I will have to physically move forward and backward from the objects as opposed just zooming the camera. Not really sure the extra sharpness and low light shooting ability trumps the longer minimum focus and inability to zoom over the kit lens?
I am looking for suggestions as to any replacement for the kit lens that allows for both general shots of items and for more detailed close-ups of areas of interest on a item such as a damaged or worn area. I’d like the ability to zoom in to a small text area on a document or book and be able to present a sharp clear readable image of that text. I think IS is must as I will be hand holding the camera the vast majority of the time; however, any L series lenses would be a little over the top at this point.
4. 430EX II or 580EX II:
I am leaning toward the 430EX, but I am still not quite sure:
From reading this forum I see the 580EX has the following advantages:
A. Has farther reach. I saw some posts on other sites suggesting that the 430EX may not have a enough power for truly effective bouncing, or when used with a diffuser, as this takes more power (of course maybe they were just trying to sell more 580EXs, lol). My primary use would be to use it for bouncing the flash as I want to eliminate harsh shadows.
Another major concern was a post that suggested not to use the 580EX at full power at all times as this will lead to premature burn out and that several people on Amazon stated that the unit burned out after a short time. Rather disturbing as I feel that for over $400 it should be built like a tank.
B. Act as a master. Not sure if I will use this feature as replacing my current setup of 4 cheap lamps and bulbs might require the purchase of one 580EX for the camera and four 430EX units (two on the sides of the objects and two in front ?). I am thinking such a setup might actually produce more harsh shadows that my current cheap soft light setup, but I am not sure.
C. Shoot at 1/3 stops of power (430EX can do this only as a slave). Not quite sure how important this will be as I am not exactly shooting carefully composed “fine art” prints here, but essentially an upgraded version of point-and-shoot images to sell products. I am frankly too ignorant at this point to know any better without some actual hands on experience.
D. Use a power pack. No real use for this.
5. Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce for the 430EX or 580EX (diffuser).
6. Hand Strap.
I typically must hold the camera in my right hand and make adjustments to individual items to be photographed so I require a strap that's secure, but which you can get in and out of quickly as I will need to put the camera down to change out groups of items.
The Nikon AH-4 Leather Hand Grip was recommended over the Canon Hand Strap E1 on this site (http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Nikon-AH-4-Leather-Hand-Grip-Review.aspx); however, its like $70.00. Amazon has a similar Martin leather strap, but at $9.95 how good is it? Not really sure if I am paying for the “Nikon” name as opposed to a really good strap.
http://www.amazon.com/Matin-Leather-Strap-Camera-battery/dp/B003Y37KJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1285132139&sr =8-1
Any suggestions?
7-9. These 3 items are related:
I’ve read various pros and cons on hoods and filters so I thought I’d buy
7. B+W 58mm UVA (Ultra Violet) Haze MRC Filter #010
The work table I take photos does face a south wall with a curtained window on either side so I am not sure if I will actually need it for UV protection, but I thought it could at least serve as protection for the lens.
8. Fotodiox Dedicated (Bayonet) Lens Hood, for Canon EF-S USM 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 I, II, IS Lens, 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 II, II USM, III, IV, V,& 28-90mm f/4.0-5.6 Lenses as Canon EW-60c
Primarily for protection, possibly as an alternative to the B+W filter mentioned above, as such a short hood apparently does not provide much protection from camera flare from what I read.
9. Zeikos ZE-LC58 58mm Plastic Snap On Lens Cap
I see that if you use a hood on your Canon lens that Cannon’s standard caps are not as easy to remove as they should be so this cap might be easier to use - and its relatively cheap.
10. Nikon 7072 Lens Pen.
Generally highly recommended, but I am not sure as I really don’t like the idea of touching the lens at all.
11. Giottos AA1900 Rocket Air Blaster Large.
Relatively cheap and I like the way it sucks in air from the rear as opposed to sucking in dust from the front that faces the camera.
12. Canon Remote Switch RS60 E3
I may be shooting some smaller items in the future that require a tripod (micro or similar work). I am not sure if I will be utilizing the bundled software to control the camera with my computer or a remote switch. As its relatively cheap I thought it might be better to have it on hand to immediately try as opposed to having to wait for it to arrive later. I’ve also looked over the cordless models, but I am not sure if I will be able to use these line-of-site devices (I’ve also seen some posts complaining about the wireless models not firing correctly).
13. Lens Tubes - Canon or Kenko ?:
I may require even closer shots of certain smaller items (merchandise in a studio setting - no insects here) so I was looking at a cheaper way to go than a expensive macro lens (at least until I know what I am doing). I came across the site below which provides several examples of the Canon EF 25 II on various lenses including the kit lens:
http://www.pbase.com/barry_2718/ef_25_ii
The site below suggests that the Kenko extensions are of similar build quality to the Canon and are priced less. The Kenko seems to have a high rating on Amazon, nearly as high as the Canon. I definitely want to stay away from the Chinese stuff on eBay and stick with better brand here (even though they too may be made in China, lol). I kind of like the idea of having 3 extensions as opposed to 2 at a cheaper price, but I am not sure about the quality as I recall one post stating that their lens fell off when used with a Kenko. The Kenko set is about $20 more than just the 25mm Canon.
If I get the Kenko I see that I must be sure to get the “C/AFs” version so it works with the EF-S lens.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Kenko-Extension-Tube-Set-Review.aspx
14. RainbowImaging Hard LCD Cover Screen Protector for Canon EOS 550D
From reading posts I do realize that the lcd on the camera already has a protector on it, but I am not really interested in replacing it even though it only costs $20.00 or so as the amount of time required to replace it (assuming I can do it right) would be better spent toward selling items.
I really don’t like the idea of using a glass lcd protector as they can shatter and I don’t like the idea of sticking one directly to the lcd screen so this protector seems like a better compromise as its attached to the eyepiece. As I will be primarily shooting through the viewfinder, as opposed to the lcd, I don’t think any reduction in clarity of the lcd due to the cover will be a problem.
15. Bags
I’d really like the scenario of having each individual item inside its own case or sleeve which are in turn placed inside a larger case. Ideally I’d like a hard, internally padded, easily removable case for the T2i with the kit lens attached, although a flexible sleeve might be o.k. The outer case should be big enough for the T2i and kit lens attached inside its own internal case or sleeve; 430EX or 580EX; batteries; filters; and future lens. Future lens might start with a 55-250mm and include similar or smaller sized lens - I’d keep larger lens or L-series in their own cases.
I definitely do not like backpacks. I also would prefer a case which allows one to place items into their own individual slots as opposed to having to stack major items on top of each other as this will put additional stress on items just from the weight of the stacked items, not to mention the added stress caused by the added momentum of objects which may shift within the outer case. So I guess the type of outer case I am looking for would use a “horizontal” layout.
Rather hard to decide as stores around here do not have much of selection (I think a local Target used to have the T1i starter kit for awhile).
The Canon 100DB (18 x 12 x 5) has a slot for laptop which I do not need as my laptop is in its own case.
The Canon 200DB (10.5 X 7.5 X 7) seems a little small
This CaseLogic seems interesting, but it has only 1 rating on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Camera-Messenger-Digital-Cameras/dp/B002VSWECG/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1285193649&s r=8-17
Several other cases are shown on Amazon but they do not have any rating.
I’ve also explored the “thinking outside of box” route in that I could use a padded cooler. They do not have generic pockets specifically made for camera items, but are of similar build, waterproof, cheaper, and would provide insulation.
NOTES:
1. Already have a couple tripods (a like new Silk and a giant Husky IV from the 1960s).
2. Already have Kingston 8GB 133X Class 6 SDHC (used for testing the cameras in the store).
3. I am sure to have forgotten something so I am open to any further suggestions as to accessories or other options.
EARLY TRICK OR TREAT:
As this post is very long I offer a early Halloween treat for those that bother to read at least a portion of it. I was recently able to buy a vintage Zeiss Ikon Contarex Bullseye (variation E) with a Planar 50mm 1.2f lens at a local auction for a great price. It was orginally purchased by a young Catholic priest back in 1966 and has been babied since then. It looks like its new, along with much of the other accessories - you can literally see the reflection of your fingers in the leather cases its so pristine. It came with a bunch of paperwork; filters; Strobonar 660; Honeywell camera brackets; and other items. I was also able to pick up some vintage camera catalogs, a Husky IV tripod, a large collection of slides, slide projector. Seems liked a very interesting priest to have met when he was alive in his younger days as he was into hunting, cameras, piano playing, painting, and kept everything in immaculate condition (he still drove his 1969 car). I’ve not have had a chance to use it or sort through the items and I won’t be using for while as I am afraid I will break something, lol.
And try not to laugh at the jpeg picture too much, its from a cheap Kodak point and shoot on my homemade shooting table, without two of the helper lights turned on so there’s more shadowing than normal (image reduced to 30% of original).
I don’t know much about the technical aspects of photography so forgive my ignorance. I’ve been doing some preliminary research on this forum, and many other sites, in the hopes of buying a dslr camera system.
As a result of selling online since 1999 I’ve taken many thousands of photos of the merchandise that I sell, which can range from one-of-a-kind antiques to large lots of items. All of these photos have been taken with point-and-shoot cameras, starting with a Kodak 2MB DC3400 that I bought new back in 1999-2000 for $350.00 (and yes it still works). From there I moved up to 6 MB consumer models for better detail. I recently tried some newer point-and-shoots and was frankly appalled at the build and image quality so I think its time to move up to a dslr and keep the point-and-shoots for “dirty job” in-the-field cameras.
For collectibles and antiques I typically need to take several shots of an item (top, bottom side, etc...). I also need to snap close-ups of any defective areas as condition is everything with antiques. For macro items I’ve use old Umax scanners which allow you to scan 3-d objects - unlike many of the newer scanners which have no depth of field. I find the scanner approach very effective as I can scan items several times their actual size; these used scanners are very cheap ($1.00 or so); and essentially the scanner completes all the scanning “jobs” in the background on its own while I do other things. I may; however, want to explore taking at least some of these shots with a dslr camera.
My current camera shooting area consists of a 8’ x 4’ sheet of hard white plastic formed into a curved L-shape against a wall so that it provides a continuous surface of white foreground and background (this thick washable sheet is used in the construction trade and costs about $20.00). For items that would look better on a black background I use a large piece of washable thick black matte material attached to a roller so that it can be unrolled down and over the white plastic piece (which forms a stiff base under the black cloth). For lighting I use two inexpensive clip-on lamps in the front of the table and two extension-arm lamps in the back, all with softer compact fluorescent bulbs. Since the lights are projecting toward the objects from different directions they tend to cancel each other ‘s shadows out and kill off any harsh shadowing you would get from a light source from one directions. When the camera’s flash fires it usually eliminates most of the remaining light cross shadowing from the lights - not exactly a pro shooting booth, but it gets the job done cheaply, lol.
My typical shooting style can be described as “mass production”. I typically place several items on my shooting surface at once and continue to reposition and shoot items until I can move onto the next group of items. Most items are shot head-on in a standing position while others require the use of a small step stool for a more overhead shot as this will crop better (i.e., leave less white space around the object when cropped). As I’ve already examined the items for defects the shots I take are a mixture of full body shots and close-ups of areas of interest (i.e., damage or wear) .
INITIAL DSLR TESTING:
I brought my own memory card into a local store and tested a Canon T1i and a Nikon D5000. Image quality looked similar in Photoshop CS, but I decided to go with Canon due to the bundled software, especially the software which supposedly allows one to control the camera from your computer (an Apple in this case). I got sidetracked with other things for awhile and since Canon came out with the T2i in the mean time I also tested that. I only see some slight image quality and contrast improvements over the T1i, but decided to go with the T2i for the extra cropping area, new lcd, and perhaps the upgraded video (although I am not sure I will use that).
I also investigated a 5D, but only online as I’d probably have to drive over hundred miles to find a store that has one to test in person. I found the image tests below interesting, but decided not to go with the 5D as its probably overkill for what I doing and I somehow don’t like the idea of lugging around such an expensive camera during one of my fast paced shooting sessions - sure enough I’d experience my first camera drop with it.
T1i:
http://216.18.212.226/PRODS/T1I/FULLRES/T1IhSLI00100.JPG
T2i:
http://216.18.212.226/PRODS/T2I/FULLRES/T2IhSLI00100_NR2D.JPG
5D:
http://216.18.212.226/PRODS/E5D2/FULLRES/E5D2hSLI00100.JPG
PROPOSED KIT:
1. T2i with 18-55mm kit.
I tested the camera with this lens on it and it seems to work fine for most of what I currently want out of the camera. I liked how close it can get you ( 9.8” minimum focusing rating). Actual real life shooting with the camera; however, will be in a room with two curtained windows and several soft light lamps as opposed to a brightly lit store however.
2. Canon BG-E8 Battery Grip for Canon T2i Digital SLR Cameras.
This is a must have as using rechargeable AA saves a fortune in shooting costs. I don’t think I’d buy this camera if the AA option was not available. I’ve seen other 3rd party grips, but decided to go with the Canon as I’ve seen some reviews of 3rd party grips talking about the outer surface of the grip “pealing off” and manufacturing tolerance problems with the battery holders. Also the Canon would probably have a better resale value.
3. Kit Replacement Lens (?):
I’ve read various suggestions and reviews as to a replacement lens for the kit lens, but they all seem to have a catch:
For example; the EF-S 17-55mm 2.8 IS USM is described as a sharp lens (http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-17-55mm-f-2.8-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx), but then the referenced review includes the following information which seems to suggest that the lens would be useless as I need to get close:
“This lens is sharp! Wide open and from edge to edge. Unless the distance is close that is - I'm finding that close subjects do not produce the same image sharpness as normal distance subjects.”
Another lens often suggested is the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens as its supposed to be great in low light; very sharp for its price; and I’ve seen it recommended for use with extension tubes for macro-type work. Its minimum focus rating of 17.7” (as opposed to 9.8” for the kit lens) is of concern, as well as the fact that I will have to physically move forward and backward from the objects as opposed just zooming the camera. Not really sure the extra sharpness and low light shooting ability trumps the longer minimum focus and inability to zoom over the kit lens?
I am looking for suggestions as to any replacement for the kit lens that allows for both general shots of items and for more detailed close-ups of areas of interest on a item such as a damaged or worn area. I’d like the ability to zoom in to a small text area on a document or book and be able to present a sharp clear readable image of that text. I think IS is must as I will be hand holding the camera the vast majority of the time; however, any L series lenses would be a little over the top at this point.
4. 430EX II or 580EX II:
I am leaning toward the 430EX, but I am still not quite sure:
From reading this forum I see the 580EX has the following advantages:
A. Has farther reach. I saw some posts on other sites suggesting that the 430EX may not have a enough power for truly effective bouncing, or when used with a diffuser, as this takes more power (of course maybe they were just trying to sell more 580EXs, lol). My primary use would be to use it for bouncing the flash as I want to eliminate harsh shadows.
Another major concern was a post that suggested not to use the 580EX at full power at all times as this will lead to premature burn out and that several people on Amazon stated that the unit burned out after a short time. Rather disturbing as I feel that for over $400 it should be built like a tank.
B. Act as a master. Not sure if I will use this feature as replacing my current setup of 4 cheap lamps and bulbs might require the purchase of one 580EX for the camera and four 430EX units (two on the sides of the objects and two in front ?). I am thinking such a setup might actually produce more harsh shadows that my current cheap soft light setup, but I am not sure.
C. Shoot at 1/3 stops of power (430EX can do this only as a slave). Not quite sure how important this will be as I am not exactly shooting carefully composed “fine art” prints here, but essentially an upgraded version of point-and-shoot images to sell products. I am frankly too ignorant at this point to know any better without some actual hands on experience.
D. Use a power pack. No real use for this.
5. Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce for the 430EX or 580EX (diffuser).
6. Hand Strap.
I typically must hold the camera in my right hand and make adjustments to individual items to be photographed so I require a strap that's secure, but which you can get in and out of quickly as I will need to put the camera down to change out groups of items.
The Nikon AH-4 Leather Hand Grip was recommended over the Canon Hand Strap E1 on this site (http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Nikon-AH-4-Leather-Hand-Grip-Review.aspx); however, its like $70.00. Amazon has a similar Martin leather strap, but at $9.95 how good is it? Not really sure if I am paying for the “Nikon” name as opposed to a really good strap.
http://www.amazon.com/Matin-Leather-Strap-Camera-battery/dp/B003Y37KJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1285132139&sr =8-1
Any suggestions?
7-9. These 3 items are related:
I’ve read various pros and cons on hoods and filters so I thought I’d buy
7. B+W 58mm UVA (Ultra Violet) Haze MRC Filter #010
The work table I take photos does face a south wall with a curtained window on either side so I am not sure if I will actually need it for UV protection, but I thought it could at least serve as protection for the lens.
8. Fotodiox Dedicated (Bayonet) Lens Hood, for Canon EF-S USM 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 I, II, IS Lens, 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 II, II USM, III, IV, V,& 28-90mm f/4.0-5.6 Lenses as Canon EW-60c
Primarily for protection, possibly as an alternative to the B+W filter mentioned above, as such a short hood apparently does not provide much protection from camera flare from what I read.
9. Zeikos ZE-LC58 58mm Plastic Snap On Lens Cap
I see that if you use a hood on your Canon lens that Cannon’s standard caps are not as easy to remove as they should be so this cap might be easier to use - and its relatively cheap.
10. Nikon 7072 Lens Pen.
Generally highly recommended, but I am not sure as I really don’t like the idea of touching the lens at all.
11. Giottos AA1900 Rocket Air Blaster Large.
Relatively cheap and I like the way it sucks in air from the rear as opposed to sucking in dust from the front that faces the camera.
12. Canon Remote Switch RS60 E3
I may be shooting some smaller items in the future that require a tripod (micro or similar work). I am not sure if I will be utilizing the bundled software to control the camera with my computer or a remote switch. As its relatively cheap I thought it might be better to have it on hand to immediately try as opposed to having to wait for it to arrive later. I’ve also looked over the cordless models, but I am not sure if I will be able to use these line-of-site devices (I’ve also seen some posts complaining about the wireless models not firing correctly).
13. Lens Tubes - Canon or Kenko ?:
I may require even closer shots of certain smaller items (merchandise in a studio setting - no insects here) so I was looking at a cheaper way to go than a expensive macro lens (at least until I know what I am doing). I came across the site below which provides several examples of the Canon EF 25 II on various lenses including the kit lens:
http://www.pbase.com/barry_2718/ef_25_ii
The site below suggests that the Kenko extensions are of similar build quality to the Canon and are priced less. The Kenko seems to have a high rating on Amazon, nearly as high as the Canon. I definitely want to stay away from the Chinese stuff on eBay and stick with better brand here (even though they too may be made in China, lol). I kind of like the idea of having 3 extensions as opposed to 2 at a cheaper price, but I am not sure about the quality as I recall one post stating that their lens fell off when used with a Kenko. The Kenko set is about $20 more than just the 25mm Canon.
If I get the Kenko I see that I must be sure to get the “C/AFs” version so it works with the EF-S lens.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Kenko-Extension-Tube-Set-Review.aspx
14. RainbowImaging Hard LCD Cover Screen Protector for Canon EOS 550D
From reading posts I do realize that the lcd on the camera already has a protector on it, but I am not really interested in replacing it even though it only costs $20.00 or so as the amount of time required to replace it (assuming I can do it right) would be better spent toward selling items.
I really don’t like the idea of using a glass lcd protector as they can shatter and I don’t like the idea of sticking one directly to the lcd screen so this protector seems like a better compromise as its attached to the eyepiece. As I will be primarily shooting through the viewfinder, as opposed to the lcd, I don’t think any reduction in clarity of the lcd due to the cover will be a problem.
15. Bags
I’d really like the scenario of having each individual item inside its own case or sleeve which are in turn placed inside a larger case. Ideally I’d like a hard, internally padded, easily removable case for the T2i with the kit lens attached, although a flexible sleeve might be o.k. The outer case should be big enough for the T2i and kit lens attached inside its own internal case or sleeve; 430EX or 580EX; batteries; filters; and future lens. Future lens might start with a 55-250mm and include similar or smaller sized lens - I’d keep larger lens or L-series in their own cases.
I definitely do not like backpacks. I also would prefer a case which allows one to place items into their own individual slots as opposed to having to stack major items on top of each other as this will put additional stress on items just from the weight of the stacked items, not to mention the added stress caused by the added momentum of objects which may shift within the outer case. So I guess the type of outer case I am looking for would use a “horizontal” layout.
Rather hard to decide as stores around here do not have much of selection (I think a local Target used to have the T1i starter kit for awhile).
The Canon 100DB (18 x 12 x 5) has a slot for laptop which I do not need as my laptop is in its own case.
The Canon 200DB (10.5 X 7.5 X 7) seems a little small
This CaseLogic seems interesting, but it has only 1 rating on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Camera-Messenger-Digital-Cameras/dp/B002VSWECG/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1285193649&s r=8-17
Several other cases are shown on Amazon but they do not have any rating.
I’ve also explored the “thinking outside of box” route in that I could use a padded cooler. They do not have generic pockets specifically made for camera items, but are of similar build, waterproof, cheaper, and would provide insulation.
NOTES:
1. Already have a couple tripods (a like new Silk and a giant Husky IV from the 1960s).
2. Already have Kingston 8GB 133X Class 6 SDHC (used for testing the cameras in the store).
3. I am sure to have forgotten something so I am open to any further suggestions as to accessories or other options.
EARLY TRICK OR TREAT:
As this post is very long I offer a early Halloween treat for those that bother to read at least a portion of it. I was recently able to buy a vintage Zeiss Ikon Contarex Bullseye (variation E) with a Planar 50mm 1.2f lens at a local auction for a great price. It was orginally purchased by a young Catholic priest back in 1966 and has been babied since then. It looks like its new, along with much of the other accessories - you can literally see the reflection of your fingers in the leather cases its so pristine. It came with a bunch of paperwork; filters; Strobonar 660; Honeywell camera brackets; and other items. I was also able to pick up some vintage camera catalogs, a Husky IV tripod, a large collection of slides, slide projector. Seems liked a very interesting priest to have met when he was alive in his younger days as he was into hunting, cameras, piano playing, painting, and kept everything in immaculate condition (he still drove his 1969 car). I’ve not have had a chance to use it or sort through the items and I won’t be using for while as I am afraid I will break something, lol.
And try not to laugh at the jpeg picture too much, its from a cheap Kodak point and shoot on my homemade shooting table, without two of the helper lights turned on so there’s more shadowing than normal (image reduced to 30% of original).
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Comments
If asking for advice, I suggest asking one question at a time. Better to have multiple posts with one question each than multiple questions in one post.
And... welcome to DGrin. I hope being direct helps you interact with other members here easier.
kit suggestions ?
are you asking about lens?
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Likewise, I suggest a more flexible lighting setup. Something that can be adjusted for light ratios would be very helpful to add depth and dimension to subjects that need those properties of light and shadow. The ability to add highlights is also a good way to represent shape. Flags and scrims might be required for glass work too.
For product work I do think that an advanced digicam can provide both increased/sufficient DOF and flexibility in position and distance. I did 31 years in a fortune 500 manufacturing company photographing large and small subjects and I've used everything from a 4" x 5" view camera through a dSLR and advanced digicam, and the digicam was by far the fastest to work with and the most flexible in shooting products. I did add a 2-element diopter for some of the work where I wanted more shooting distance than the close focus capabilities of the digicam allowed, but otherwise the digicam and lighting controls pretty much covered the imaging side.
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I didn't read through everything but for product photography the light set-up is most important, then the lens and camera. The newer T2i (550D) and 18-55Is with speedlights and modifiers would suffice but before spending money why not look at the lighting setups on DSLR lighting forums, either here or other places? e.g. the lighting section at
http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum
shows different product photography setups and the equipment used for various shots,
also the "MACRO" section shows detailed product shots
I don't understand this. You are going to spend for the battery grip just to use rechargable AAs and save a fortune?
All Canon DSLRs come with a rechargable battery and charger in the box. I have never shot with a T2i but both of my Canons can take hundreds of photos before they need a recharge. I would think in your "studio" setup the one original battery would be enough.
The 60mm EF-S macro would be a nice addition to the kit if you cannot get close enough to very small items or for "damage" shots. I have a 15-85mm and find it to be a very nice lens but I have not done closeup work with it.