Best way to shoot "Battle of the Bands" at school

Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
edited October 23, 2010 in Technique
In 3 weeks time, several student bands will be performing in a "Battle of the Bands" contest at the school at which I am a teacher. I have offered to do the photography for it. All the shots will be staying in-house, and no money will change hands. But it is all good experience for me, and the kids and staff will (hopefully) have some nice momentoes of the show.

Question: Given this layout...

5040001002_94f708d07a_z.jpg
battle of the bands layout by Bend The Light, on Flickr

...where would you position yourself?
I have a canon 400d, can get a battery grip. I have 18-55mm kit lens, 75-300 standard zoom. I have 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 135mm manual lenses. I can get a monopod, or go handheld. Obviously I will not have control over the lights, and it will be dark, with stage lights. I can use all the walkway on the right, or I can go down to the floor in front of the stage.

How would you approach this? I am an amateur, never shot bands, so any advice would be very welcome. Sorrry for the long post, and Thanks in advance.

Craig

Comments

  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    the raised erea on the right , so the audience heads will not interfere
    as you are working there , its easy to block your working area with some tables or whatever , so parents wont "attack" you

    and , a zoom lens
    you want entire stage , but also individual players

    hope it helps
  • Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    basflt wrote: »
    the raised erea on the right , so the audience heads will not interfere
    as you are working there , its easy to block your working area with some tables or whatever , so parents wont "attack" you

    and , a zoom lens
    you want entire stage , but also individual players

    hope it helps

    Yes, I am gravitating to that area, too. However, I went there today with the zoom lens (I have only the 18-55 kit lens and a 75-300 standard canon zoom) and both struggled with acquiring focus, and the hall was not as dark as it will be on the night.

    I have heard from a few others on another forum, and I am swayed to that area, but with my 135mm f2.8 prime. I can move up and down the raised walkway - only senior staff will be anywhere near there, so I can shift them a bit if need be.

    I am also getting some assistants to help out! They are Post 16 students doing a digital media course. They will be equipped with Lumix dslrs with 14-45mm lenses - If I scatter those kids about a bit for some other shots. They are more amateur than even me, but they need the experience, too.

    Whatever we get from it, it'll be fun...and as I said - it's not a paid gig - more about recording the event, and gaining experience too.

    Cheers

    Craig
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    i thought that in dark environment you always need manual focus
  • Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    basflt wrote: »
    i thought that in dark environment you always need manual focus

    Yes, probably right. cheers.
  • r3t1awr3ydr3t1awr3yd Registered Users Posts: 1,000 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    basflt wrote: »
    i thought that in dark environment you always need manual focus
    How dark? I shoot some pretty dark events (even black light lit) with no focusing issues. I'm too blind to ever use MF.

    EDIT: ALL of my lenses are f/2.8 or faster though. That might make a difference.

    Hi! I'm Wally: website | blog | facebook | IG | scotchNsniff
    Nikon addict. D610, Tok 11-16, Sig 24-35, Nik 24-70/70-200vr
  • Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    r3t1awr3yd wrote: »
    How dark? I shoot some pretty dark events (even black light lit) with no focusing issues. I'm too blind to ever use MF.

    EDIT: ALL of my lenses are f/2.8 or faster though. That might make a difference.

    I don't know, but the 18-55 and 75-300 were searching - and I was trying to focus on a white stripe on the wood floor - quite well defined.

    I think the 135mm f2.8 is gonna be my favourite...

    Cheers
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    r3t1awr3yd wrote: »
    How dark? I shoot some pretty dark events (even black light lit) with no focusing issues. I'm too blind to ever use MF.

    EDIT: ALL of my lenses are f/2.8 or faster though. That might make a difference.
    depends on both equipment and environment i guess

    he said both lenses struggled focusing , so ....

    each lens is different
    fact is , they need some light in order to focus
  • r3t1awr3ydr3t1awr3yd Registered Users Posts: 1,000 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    basflt wrote: »
    depends on both equipment and environment i guess

    he said both lenses struggled focusing , so ....

    each lens is different
    fact is , they need some light in order to focus

    Right, but almost a stop (or more) of light helps a bunch in focusing. I'm gonna go ahead and guess that THAT is why his 135 isn't having issues and the other two lenses (3.5-5.6 maybe?) are struggling.

    Hi! I'm Wally: website | blog | facebook | IG | scotchNsniff
    Nikon addict. D610, Tok 11-16, Sig 24-35, Nik 24-70/70-200vr
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    r3t1awr3yd wrote: »
    Right, but almost a stop (or more) of light helps a bunch in focusing. I'm gonna go ahead and guess that THAT is why his 135 isn't having issues and the other two lenses (3.5-5.6 maybe?) are struggling.
    yes
    longer lens = less light
    smaller aperture diameter too
  • r3t1awr3ydr3t1awr3yd Registered Users Posts: 1,000 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    basflt wrote: »
    yes
    longer lens = less light
    smaller aperture diameter too

    Only if it's not a constant aperture lens (hence my 2.8 comment from before, no?)

    Hi! I'm Wally: website | blog | facebook | IG | scotchNsniff
    Nikon addict. D610, Tok 11-16, Sig 24-35, Nik 24-70/70-200vr
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    maybe
    but i think there is more then that
    my Sigma focuss real fast
    my Nikon macro focuses almost never

    or ; make and model count too , i think
  • digger2digger2 Registered Users Posts: 91 Big grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    I would use manual focus. Setup some duct tape on the floor and measure the distance to the stage with a measure. I use an If laser type measure, write the distacnce on the duct tape. Put 3-4 of these around the shoot area. Also, take a tall step ladder as well. Make sure you shoot the bands side on so that the guitar face is open.
  • Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    digger2 wrote: »
    I would use manual focus. Setup some duct tape on the floor and measure the distance to the stage with a measure. I use an If laser type measure, write the distacnce on the duct tape. Put 3-4 of these around the shoot area. Also, take a tall step ladder as well. Make sure you shoot the bands side on so that the guitar face is open.

    The Duct Tape - what would the distance information tell you exactly? That might be a completely amateur question, but there we go...But I can see the benefit of knowing where certain shots will look best.

    Given that I use the 135, f2.8, would you use it wide open? (probably have to for the light?)

    I won't be able to take a ladder - but then I will be up above the audience anyway, and have a clear view of the stage, including from side on.

    What do you mean by "Guitar Face".

    Thanks, and thanks to the other guys here, too. Enjoying reading, and learning a bit, too. :)
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    What do you mean by "Guitar Face".
    from the red area
    if you view from left , you only see the players arm
  • digger2digger2 Registered Users Posts: 91 Big grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    In poor light you will not be able to use the auto focus, and depending on your camera it may be difficult to focus manually with any accuracy. So, look at the distance from the duct tape( that you are standing on) to the subject and set your lens accordingly.
  • digger2digger2 Registered Users Posts: 91 Big grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    I just saw where you are based, still dark from all the coal dust eh?
    Lol
  • Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    digger2 wrote: »
    In poor light you will not be able to use the auto focus, and depending on your camera it may be difficult to focus manually with any accuracy. So, look at the distance from the duct tape( that you are standing on) to the subject and set your lens accordingly.

    Based on a previously focussed shot...yes, got it.

    Thanks

    Oh, and yes...it's grimey up 'ere wot wi coyle dust...'n' these owd gas lamps kick out a bit 'o' muck, too, tha knows! Rayt...wiers flat cap - tekkin' whippit art fo' a bit!
  • FatNakedGuyFatNakedGuy Registered Users Posts: 116 Major grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    try to get some shots from behind the stage looking out into the audience with the musicians backs to the camera.. those are some great shots

    and your 135mm 2.8 would be my choice.. you shouldn't have focus issues

    set the camera to spot metering and shoot in AV 2.8 800iso. step up the iso if needed, dont be afraid to go to 1600 or 3200 if your camera can handle that.

    can get some cool images in the pit below the stage just to the right of the microphone stand...

    and speaking of microphone stands, try NOT to get shots of the microphone right in front of the musicians mouth... as in the mic blocking their mouth.. those shots drive me nuts.

    go for some cool close up shots of their shoes and stuff too! just git in there and move around.. you'll find out quickly what works and what doesn't.

    and whatever you do, leave the flash at home!



    Rick
    http://rickweller.com/music
  • digger2digger2 Registered Users Posts: 91 Big grins
    edited October 1, 2010
    so, still trouble at pit?
  • Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
    edited October 2, 2010
    try to get some shots from behind the stage looking out into the audience with the musicians backs to the camera.. those are some great shots

    and your 135mm 2.8 would be my choice.. you shouldn't have focus issues

    set the camera to spot metering and shoot in AV 2.8 800iso. step up the iso if needed, dont be afraid to go to 1600 or 3200 if your camera can handle that.

    can get some cool images in the pit below the stage just to the right of the microphone stand...

    and speaking of microphone stands, try NOT to get shots of the microphone right in front of the musicians mouth... as in the mic blocking their mouth.. those shots drive me nuts.

    go for some cool close up shots of their shoes and stuff too! just git in there and move around.. you'll find out quickly what works and what doesn't.

    and whatever you do, leave the flash at home!



    Rick
    http://rickweller.com/music

    Cool - good advice. Unfortunately, I won't be able to get audience shots - if I can't prove the kids in the audience have photo consent, i can't have the photos. Believe me, child protection issues are big big big in our schools. The band will all have signed photo consent (or their parents will have).
    I like the idea of a few different shots, like feet, or hands etc. I'll definitely bear that in mind.

    Cheers
  • Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
    edited October 2, 2010
    digger2 wrote: »
    so, still trouble at pit?

    Aye up! Thas rayt, this trubble a' t' pit. wee pete is stuk daahn t' oyle 'n we can't gerr 'im art!
  • FatNakedGuyFatNakedGuy Registered Users Posts: 116 Major grins
    edited October 2, 2010
    shooting from the back of the stage, focusing on the musicians and shooting f2.8, the audience should be out of focus with the band crisp. would make for a great photo
  • BradfordBennBradfordBenn Registered Users Posts: 2,506 Major grins
    edited October 3, 2010
    Also I would highly recommend ear plugs. I am amazed at just having the background "noise" quieter while I am trying to think helps.
    -=Bradford

    Pictures | Website | Blog | Twitter | Contact
  • Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
    edited October 7, 2010
    Just for interest - I went to the dress rehearsal for a show that my daughter is in at the weekend. I took my camera along, and the 135mm f2.8 manual lens. I took over 350 shots on the night, and I am still processing.
    I was after some idea as to how the "Battle of the Bands" shots might look.
    How do these look? Should I watch for anything that would make these better? I was struggling for light as the stage lights were hit and miss (it was rehearsal) and most are shot at f2.8, although on occasion I managed f5.6...
    5060114114_74720be96b.jpgKids in Joseph Framed by Bend The Light, on Flickr
    5059499385_2578a613f9.jpgEdgar Allen Poe 6 Framed by Bend The Light, on Flickr
    5059499127_081b609b18.jpgBrooklyn as Joseph 3 Framed by Bend The Light, on Flickr
    5060112062_b50f29d56c.jpgLion King Trio 2 Framed by Bend The Light, on Flickr
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited October 11, 2010
    Is that 11mx12m, so approximately 35x40ft - what is the space?

    If you can afford it (or perhaps get them to cover the cost for you?) it would be great to rent something like a 70-200 2.8is. If there is a lighting booth above behind the audience that you can use, then get yourself in that and use the zoom on the lens to get in tight or pull back as needed.

    If not, then see if you'll be allowed to set up a (tallish) stepladder at the back. The point here is to try and get HIGH so you can get some of the formations as well as the ground level shots.

    I would then probably try to take some from that location for each band, as well as from the side and directly in front of them. You'd probably need to change lenses when you got in closer - pick the fastest lens you've got (manual or AF) and shoot with that.

    Good luck - sounds like great fun for yoU!!! thumb.gif
  • FatNakedGuyFatNakedGuy Registered Users Posts: 116 Major grins
    edited October 23, 2010
    How did your shots turn out?
  • Bend The LightBend The Light Registered Users Posts: 1,887 Major grins
    edited October 23, 2010
    How did your shots turn out?

    Well, I am just processing some of them so not got many. They were OK, but I did struggle with the light - they were quite poor to be honest. I think I have some nice ones, so will post when I have them done...here's a couple for starters...think I have better, though. Cheers for asking :D

    5106883326_2553ab0ee4_z.jpg
    Final Frontier - RA - CM by Bend The Light, on Flickr
    5106287821_a53612cc8e_z.jpg
    comperes - CM by Bend The Light, on Flickr
    5106885890_3563bdf93b_z.jpg
    Final Frontier - TO - 2 - LOMO - CM by Bend The Light, on Flickr
  • BradfordBennBradfordBenn Registered Users Posts: 2,506 Major grins
    edited October 23, 2010
    Thanks for sharing. I can see what you mean on the lighting being difficult.
    -=Bradford

    Pictures | Website | Blog | Twitter | Contact
Sign In or Register to comment.