Issues with new Nikon 50mm ƒ/1.8 on ƒ22??

DCrossPhotoDCrossPhoto Registered Users Posts: 35 Big grins
edited October 13, 2010 in Cameras
**EDIT** **PROBLEM SOLVED**

Hi everyone. Hope this is where to post(if not, please feel free to move...)

Just purchased a brand new Nikon Nikkor 50mm ƒ1.8D(that everyone loves) and am finding an issue that I can't track down on the Forums. I shoot a D90(DX) and am experiencing a purplish center spot above ƒ16. I have no lens filter on the camera, but held a UV over, and made no difference. I have found only one other complaint, on a different forum, where the problem was the same, but no one answered or confirmed this issue. I exchanged the lens within 30 min.(bought @ Ritz for $130) and the new one does the same thing. The gentlemen at the store were completely indifferent to this issue(a shrug and a "here, try this one"). I know this lens does not need ƒ16-ƒ22, but shouldn't it work anyway? Do I just need to relax and enjoy the amazing sharpness and incredible color that it produces(at lower than ƒ11)? Have tried shooting in different modes/metering,auto,ISO, etc. Noticed during landscape shots. Normal Flare for this lens, this stopped down? Thank you all, in advance, for "schooling" me...:dunno

Sorry for the large size, I wanted any issue to be easily seen...

Thank you for your time!
1044573125_rwnBk-X2.jpg

Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,130 moderator
    edited October 12, 2010
    You don't mention the camera used but I see that you have a Nikon D90 listed in your profile. If it is the D90 then I don't think that the camera is the problem. (If it were an older D70, for instance, then the camera could be at least part of the problem.)

    If this is the very latest Nikkor 50mm, f1.8 AF-D MKII, and if you were not using a lens hood you might try one to see if the situation improves. If the flare reduces then I suspect a problem with contra light and internal reflections. If the situation does not improve then it would appear to just be a problem with internal reflections and either insufficient internal baffles or insufficient anti-reflective lens coatings.

    Please note that on a crop 1.5x (DX) camera body the best aperture for center sharpness with that lens is at f4. The best aperture for overall sharpness, center to corner, is around f8. After f11 diffraction starts to get strong and, unless you need the extra DOF, sharpness will suffer and those very small apertures are best avoided.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • DavidoffDavidoff Registered Users Posts: 409 Major grins
    edited October 12, 2010
    That's strange. I would expect flare to have more "circles" and to be a bit off-center. I have that same exact camera and lens and I don't get that effect.
    I would also recommend you do what Seymore suggested.
  • DCrossPhotoDCrossPhoto Registered Users Posts: 35 Big grins
    edited October 12, 2010
    Problem "solved"(problem=loose nut behind shutter)
    Thank you guys for the quick replies! Spent a good part of last night searching all over the Internet(lotta junk). Found some good info on Flickr(they have a group just for this lens), and think I have the answer. Ziggy, you nailed it! Sorry about not including more info Seymore... I saw this issue only when shooting outside. Here in Honolulu it was around 3pm, high sun, overcast. My first digital Prime lens. Never happened with 18-105kit or 70-300VR. Tried Ritz D90 body, same effect. ANYWAY, according to different posts, this is a normal condition of these small primes, when closed down past ƒ11(16-22), and is caused by light bouncing back off the sensor(maybe off IR inside, also) and through the lens. Which explains why it had a faint hexagonal(?) shape to it. I don't use the proper terms, but hopefully you know what I'm trying to describe. All accounts I have found on the web indicate that filters won't do much to help, a lens hood is a good idea(interested in the rubber fold-back one) and that the best 2 ways to combat this are...DUH...

    1) Don't stop down past ƒ11 in sunlight
    2) If purplish flare is seen(can see in viewfinder), reposition your shot with your feet(move yo' @zz).

    Feeling pretty dumb for not figuring that out on my own, but kinda freaked a bit with new 5 minute old lens... Bottom line: It's fine, they all do it, most people don't ever know cause they're more intelligent and don't push things to their limits:bash

    Again, thank you for the replies. I kinda wanna just delete this whole post, but maybe it will someday help someone else out.
  • ImissFilmImissFilm Registered Users Posts: 52 Big grins
    edited October 13, 2010
    Hey man. Don't delete the post. I have used the same lens and have had the same problem. My findings of getting rid of the purple spot is to move at a very different angle with the lens hood on. (Which sucks because I can't get the composition that I want.) However, be careful when you move around... just because you don't see the spot dead center and as noticeable does not mean the flare isn't present. As you change your angle it will change its placement and intensity on the lens as the flare spreads out. It might be hard to detect on the LCD screen of your camera... but when you got to process it you will see it if you look for it.

    This lens is a great lens for its price... it just has some limitations.
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