I took this picture(s) yesterday, HDR'ed it, then put in PS CS5 panorama tool. I used manual settings and did not change any settings as I shot the pictures. Can someone tell me how to avoid in the future, and how to, now, fix the stitching lines in the grass? What am I doing wrong? Thanks
I took this picture(s) yesterday, HDR'ed it, then put in PS CS5 panorama tool. I used manual settings and did not change any settings as I shot the pictures. Can someone tell me how to avoid in the future, and how to, now, fix the stitching lines in the grass? What am I doing wrong? Thanks
Perhaps the HDR software altered the relative exposure/brightness of some of the images more than others making the seams more visible. It may be worth trying to stitch the panorama first and then doing HDR processing.
I took this picture(s) yesterday, HDR'ed it, then put in PS CS5 panorama tool. I used manual settings and did not change any settings as I shot the pictures. Can someone tell me how to avoid in the future, and how to, now, fix the stitching lines in the grass? What am I doing wrong? Thanks
How long did it take you to shoot all the pictures? The left side appears to be directly lit and the right end more diffusely lit. The lighting in the dark band left of the watermark also looks more diffuse. High light clouds moving past can alter the lighting like this.
If this is the case, the best you can do is shoot fast and no more images than you need and look to begin shooting when there are no clouds near the sun.
You can adjust the brightness to match the bands, but the change from directional to more diffuse lighting is hard to hide. On partly cloudy days in windy mountains I sometimes can't even shoot non-HDR panoramas fast enough to avoid lighting changes. Sometimes you just have to ski or fish instead.
How long did it take you to shoot all the pictures? The left side appears to be directly lit and the right end more diffusely lit. The lighting in the dark band left of the watermark also looks more diffuse. High light clouds moving past can alter the lighting like this.
If this is the case, the best you can do is shoot fast and no more images than you need and look to begin shooting when there are no clouds near the sun.
You can adjust the brightness to match the bands, but the change from directional to more diffuse lighting is hard to hide. On partly cloudy days in windy mountains I sometimes can't even shoot non-HDR panoramas fast enough to avoid lighting changes. Sometimes you just have to ski or fish instead.
I actually considered this, and it well could have happened. It took about 15 minutes to do this, as I focused manually with full view for each bracket group. That took some time.
To be clear: make 3 panoramas (+2, 0, -2) with the above steps, then HDR?
no , thats very difficult
one set will do
i use photoshop
i import all photos as layers , in one document
with all layers selected :
i go to ; edit - auto align layers this will stitch them
then edit - auto blend layers this will blend them [ the problem as shown above ]
save to disk , then crop / adjust / tune / HDR / whatever
it is the blending option that merges the photos , so they look equal
i use photoshop
i import all photos as layers , in one document
with all layers selected :
i go to ; edit - auto align layers this will stitch them
then edit - auto blend layers this will blend them [ the problem as shown above ]
save to disk , then crop / adjust / tune / HDR / whatever
it is the blending option that merges the photos , so they look equal
Again, to repeat so I am clear: In this particular photo, I had 12 compositions, each taken at +2,0,-2. So I would layer all 36, (12*3), then do the blend, auto-align. then I would flatten, crop and do an HDR with just 1 image by clicking on Image, Adjustments, HDR Toning?
i would say ;
align and blend 12 X the +2 , 12 X 0 and 12 X -2
save as TIFF's , so you have 3 pano's in TIFF format ; +2 , 0 and -2
use these 3 TIFF's to create HDR
its the blending option i meant
the light in each photo will be different , always , the blending option solves that
How I get seamless panoramas- if I need extra dynamic range (as the others above have said, you need to stitch and blend before doing the tonemapping step- not to be condescending, but I think sometimes people confuse the HDR image and the tonemapped HDR image- do you understand the difference?).
Shoot raw- process all images to the same middling setting and output 16 bit tiffs (one tiff for each frame, not 3 exposure bracketed frames).
Align and blend exposure in Hugin- it has an HDR 16 bit tiff output.
Either open up the tiff and process 3 different exposure levels out of it and blend them by hand with masks, or open up the tiff in my HDR program (Luminance/QTPFSGUI) and tonemap the stitched HDR image.
For most scenes, this pseudo or single exposure HDR gives me what I'm looking for, without hassling with doing the stitching 3 times for the bracketed exposure. But it shouldn't be too hard to set up a batch process to do it, I'd guess.
DIfferent programs, but maybe the workflow is adaptable.
I think it's not considered good form to hijack posts with your own images here, but this is the kind of dynamic range i get with a tonemapped single exposure stitch and blending- frankly, I'm too lazy/busy/doing other things to carry a tripod and get good aligned exposure bracketed images most of time I run into good scenery.
I can't remember now, I think it's 50/50. 50% HDR stitch contrast stretched and slightly saturated in Bibble, and 50% mantiuk algorithm tonemapping of the HDR stitch. The mantiuk image had detail in the shadows in the water gap (river cut) in the lower right, but I masked that mostly out because I think it needed that cliff in deeper shade.
Comments
Perhaps the HDR software altered the relative exposure/brightness of some of the images more than others making the seams more visible. It may be worth trying to stitch the panorama first and then doing HDR processing.
edit - auto blend layers
save and then HDR
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
How long did it take you to shoot all the pictures? The left side appears to be directly lit and the right end more diffusely lit. The lighting in the dark band left of the watermark also looks more diffuse. High light clouds moving past can alter the lighting like this.
If this is the case, the best you can do is shoot fast and no more images than you need and look to begin shooting when there are no clouds near the sun.
You can adjust the brightness to match the bands, but the change from directional to more diffuse lighting is hard to hide. On partly cloudy days in windy mountains I sometimes can't even shoot non-HDR panoramas fast enough to avoid lighting changes. Sometimes you just have to ski or fish instead.
Dale B. Dalrymple
http://dbdimages.com
...with apology to Archimedies
To be clear: make 3 panoramas (+2, 0, -2) with the above steps, then HDR?
I actually considered this, and it well could have happened. It took about 15 minutes to do this, as I focused manually with full view for each bracket group. That took some time.
one set will do
i use photoshop
i import all photos as layers , in one document
with all layers selected :
i go to ;
edit - auto align layers this will stitch them
then
edit - auto blend layers this will blend them [ the problem as shown above ]
save to disk , then crop / adjust / tune / HDR / whatever
it is the blending option that merges the photos , so they look equal
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
Again, to repeat so I am clear: In this particular photo, I had 12 compositions, each taken at +2,0,-2. So I would layer all 36, (12*3), then do the blend, auto-align. then I would flatten, crop and do an HDR with just 1 image by clicking on Image, Adjustments, HDR Toning?
align and blend 12 X the +2 , 12 X 0 and 12 X -2
save as TIFF's , so you have 3 pano's in TIFF format ; +2 , 0 and -2
use these 3 TIFF's to create HDR
its the blending option i meant
the light in each photo will be different , always , the blending option solves that
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
Shoot raw- process all images to the same middling setting and output 16 bit tiffs (one tiff for each frame, not 3 exposure bracketed frames).
Align and blend exposure in Hugin- it has an HDR 16 bit tiff output.
Either open up the tiff and process 3 different exposure levels out of it and blend them by hand with masks, or open up the tiff in my HDR program (Luminance/QTPFSGUI) and tonemap the stitched HDR image.
For most scenes, this pseudo or single exposure HDR gives me what I'm looking for, without hassling with doing the stitching 3 times for the bracketed exposure. But it shouldn't be too hard to set up a batch process to do it, I'd guess.
DIfferent programs, but maybe the workflow is adaptable.
I think it's not considered good form to hijack posts with your own images here, but this is the kind of dynamic range i get with a tonemapped single exposure stitch and blending- frankly, I'm too lazy/busy/doing other things to carry a tripod and get good aligned exposure bracketed images most of time I run into good scenery.
I can't remember now, I think it's 50/50. 50% HDR stitch contrast stretched and slightly saturated in Bibble, and 50% mantiuk algorithm tonemapping of the HDR stitch. The mantiuk image had detail in the shadows in the water gap (river cut) in the lower right, but I masked that mostly out because I think it needed that cliff in deeper shade.