Panorama problem

paparosspapaross Registered Users Posts: 131 Major grins
edited November 6, 2010 in Finishing School
I took this picture(s) yesterday, HDR'ed it, then put in PS CS5 panorama tool. I used manual settings and did not change any settings as I shot the pictures. Can someone tell me how to avoid in the future, and how to, now, fix the stitching lines in the grass? What am I doing wrong? Thanks

1074575623_YCjEb-L.jpg

Comments

  • CameronCameron Registered Users Posts: 745 Major grins
    edited November 2, 2010
    papaross wrote: »
    I took this picture(s) yesterday, HDR'ed it, then put in PS CS5 panorama tool. I used manual settings and did not change any settings as I shot the pictures. Can someone tell me how to avoid in the future, and how to, now, fix the stitching lines in the grass? What am I doing wrong? Thanks

    1074575623_YCjEb-L.jpg

    Perhaps the HDR software altered the relative exposure/brightness of some of the images more than others making the seams more visible. It may be worth trying to stitch the panorama first and then doing HDR processing. ne_nau.gif
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited November 2, 2010
    edit - auto align layers
    edit - auto blend layers
    save and then HDR
  • dbddbd Registered Users Posts: 216 Major grins
    edited November 2, 2010
    papaross wrote: »
    I took this picture(s) yesterday, HDR'ed it, then put in PS CS5 panorama tool. I used manual settings and did not change any settings as I shot the pictures. Can someone tell me how to avoid in the future, and how to, now, fix the stitching lines in the grass? What am I doing wrong? Thanks

    How long did it take you to shoot all the pictures? The left side appears to be directly lit and the right end more diffusely lit. The lighting in the dark band left of the watermark also looks more diffuse. High light clouds moving past can alter the lighting like this.

    If this is the case, the best you can do is shoot fast and no more images than you need and look to begin shooting when there are no clouds near the sun.

    You can adjust the brightness to match the bands, but the change from directional to more diffuse lighting is hard to hide. On partly cloudy days in windy mountains I sometimes can't even shoot non-HDR panoramas fast enough to avoid lighting changes. Sometimes you just have to ski or fish instead.

    Dale B. Dalrymple
    http://dbdimages.com
    "Give me a lens long enough and a place to stand and I can image the earth."
    ...with apology to Archimedies
  • paparosspapaross Registered Users Posts: 131 Major grins
    edited November 2, 2010
    basflt wrote: »
    edit - auto align layers
    edit - auto blend layers
    save and then HDR

    To be clear: make 3 panoramas (+2, 0, -2) with the above steps, then HDR?
  • paparosspapaross Registered Users Posts: 131 Major grins
    edited November 2, 2010
    dbd wrote: »
    How long did it take you to shoot all the pictures? The left side appears to be directly lit and the right end more diffusely lit. The lighting in the dark band left of the watermark also looks more diffuse. High light clouds moving past can alter the lighting like this.

    If this is the case, the best you can do is shoot fast and no more images than you need and look to begin shooting when there are no clouds near the sun.

    You can adjust the brightness to match the bands, but the change from directional to more diffuse lighting is hard to hide. On partly cloudy days in windy mountains I sometimes can't even shoot non-HDR panoramas fast enough to avoid lighting changes. Sometimes you just have to ski or fish instead.

    Dale B. Dalrymple
    http://dbdimages.com

    I actually considered this, and it well could have happened. It took about 15 minutes to do this, as I focused manually with full view for each bracket group. That took some time.
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited November 4, 2010
    papaross wrote: »
    To be clear: make 3 panoramas (+2, 0, -2) with the above steps, then HDR?
    no , thats very difficult
    one set will do

    i use photoshop
    i import all photos as layers , in one document
    with all layers selected :
    i go to ;
    edit - auto align layers this will stitch them
    then
    edit - auto blend layers this will blend them [ the problem as shown above ]

    save to disk , then crop / adjust / tune / HDR / whatever

    it is the blending option that merges the photos , so they look equal
  • paparosspapaross Registered Users Posts: 131 Major grins
    edited November 4, 2010
    basflt wrote: »
    no , thats very difficult
    one set will do

    i use photoshop
    i import all photos as layers , in one document
    with all layers selected :
    i go to ;
    edit - auto align layers this will stitch them
    then
    edit - auto blend layers this will blend them [ the problem as shown above ]

    save to disk , then crop / adjust / tune / HDR / whatever

    it is the blending option that merges the photos , so they look equal

    Again, to repeat so I am clear: In this particular photo, I had 12 compositions, each taken at +2,0,-2. So I would layer all 36, (12*3), then do the blend, auto-align. then I would flatten, crop and do an HDR with just 1 image by clicking on Image, Adjustments, HDR Toning?
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited November 5, 2010
    i would say ;
    align and blend 12 X the +2 , 12 X 0 and 12 X -2
    save as TIFF's , so you have 3 pano's in TIFF format ; +2 , 0 and -2
    use these 3 TIFF's to create HDR

    its the blending option i meant
    the light in each photo will be different , always , the blending option solves that
  • JCJC Registered Users Posts: 768 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2010
    How I get seamless panoramas- if I need extra dynamic range (as the others above have said, you need to stitch and blend before doing the tonemapping step- not to be condescending, but I think sometimes people confuse the HDR image and the tonemapped HDR image- do you understand the difference?).

    Shoot raw- process all images to the same middling setting and output 16 bit tiffs (one tiff for each frame, not 3 exposure bracketed frames).

    Align and blend exposure in Hugin- it has an HDR 16 bit tiff output.

    Either open up the tiff and process 3 different exposure levels out of it and blend them by hand with masks, or open up the tiff in my HDR program (Luminance/QTPFSGUI) and tonemap the stitched HDR image.

    For most scenes, this pseudo or single exposure HDR gives me what I'm looking for, without hassling with doing the stitching 3 times for the bracketed exposure. But it shouldn't be too hard to set up a batch process to do it, I'd guess.

    DIfferent programs, but maybe the workflow is adaptable.

    I think it's not considered good form to hijack posts with your own images here, but this is the kind of dynamic range i get with a tonemapped single exposure stitch and blending- frankly, I'm too lazy/busy/doing other things to carry a tripod and get good aligned exposure bracketed images most of time I run into good scenery.

    1055034271_2tLqZ-L.jpg

    I can't remember now, I think it's 50/50. 50% HDR stitch contrast stretched and slightly saturated in Bibble, and 50% mantiuk algorithm tonemapping of the HDR stitch. The mantiuk image had detail in the shadows in the water gap (river cut) in the lower right, but I masked that mostly out because I think it needed that cliff in deeper shade.
    Yeah, if you recognize the avatar, new user name.
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