What's Going On Here???

IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
edited November 8, 2010 in Sports
Here are a couple of sequences that illustrate the weirdness of the lighting I'm dealing with shooting night games. ISO 6400, 1/320 f2.8 in all shots. Auto WB. I had shot a Lastolite calibration target for reference, but those shots turned out useless for the reasons these game sequences will illustrate. These are both three-shot bursts of less than one second each. Auto WB chose 4050, +31 for the first set:

1077355715_RHhrC-M.jpg
1077356011_xFzM6-M.jpg
1077356168_GoL7P-M.jpg

Same exposure settings for this sequence, but Auto WB chose 4100, +33 (a negligible difference):
1077356323_szzoo-M.jpg
1077356493_QLqin-M.jpg
1077356707_DF5jj-M.jpg

As you can see, white balance is all over the place. I can only conclude that the stadium lighting fluctuates like fluorescent indoor lighting. What a mess! Is there a way to deal with this other than using flash, which I'm loath to do?
John :
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.

Comments

  • kbevphotokbevphoto Registered Users Posts: 110 Major grins
    edited November 4, 2010
    I remain open to the possibility that the goalie was changing shirts in between shots. Unlikely? Yes. But you never know.

    Seriously though, my guess is that your camera's meter is hitting the gray goalpost in one shot and some other part of the frame in the other.

    Just out of curiousity, can't you just batch process the WB in Lightroom and manually set it? This way you'd just need to calibrate 1 and "assign" the rest?
  • kdogkdog Administrators Posts: 11,681 moderator
    edited November 4, 2010
    You're not alone. http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=20873

    Bottom line is either shoot at 1/60s to capture a full cycle of the lights, or live with it. Well, I guess you could buy some better lights for the stadium. :giggle
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 4, 2010
    kbevphoto wrote: »
    I remain open to the possibility that the goalie was changing shirts in between shots. Unlikely? Yes. But you never know.

    Errr . . . no. Different goalkeeper. In a stroke shootout, the teams alternate.

    Seriously though, my guess is that your camera's meter is hitting the gray goalpost in one shot and some other part of the frame in the other.

    That wouldn't do it. That would make the auto wb setting change. It did not.

    Just out of curiousity, can't you just batch process the WB in Lightroom and manually set it? This way you'd just need to calibrate 1 and "assign" the rest?

    If you batch process the WB for the whole set, and the color of the light changes (as it did here) this is the result you'd get. Don't forget, the WB did not change from shot to shot in each sequence, and the field sure as heck "changed color." See, that's why I shot a calibration target before the game. I thought I could do just that. Then I noticed that my target shots, several taken seconds apart, had differing colors.

    deal.gif
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • kbevphotokbevphoto Registered Users Posts: 110 Major grins
    edited November 4, 2010
    Icebear wrote: »
    deal.gif

    Gotcha - That's a tough one. Was just trying to kick out some ideas.

    Any thought to flipping to black and white? ne_nau.gif
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 4, 2010
    kdog wrote: »
    You're not alone. http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=20873

    Bottom line is either shoot at 1/60s to capture a full cycle of the lights, or live with it. Well, I guess you could buy some better lights for the stadium. :giggle

    That is one very useful thing to know. I knew it was an issue indoors, but had no idea the problem existed outdoors. I've only shot three games under lights (in three different stadiums) and the first didn't present the problem (and the lights were twice as bright too.)

    It may be that the lighting engineers set the phasing opposite on half the lights in the first stadium. That might have eliminated the problem by blending the pulses.

    Oh, believe me, with real estate taxes as high as they are in Fairfax County, I FEEL like I've already personally bought the damn stadium lights.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 4, 2010
    kbevphoto wrote: »
    Any thought to flipping to black and white? ne_nau.gif

    Yup. Could do that.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • kbevphotokbevphoto Registered Users Posts: 110 Major grins
    edited November 4, 2010
    Icebear wrote: »
    Yup. Could do that.

    I shoot a lot of live stuff and sometimes, I just say screw it... It's not always the best answer, but i like having the "I meant to do that..." angle when people question me...

    Have a good one.
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2010
    Cool GIF
    Hey, check this out. This is a GIF composed from 12 images shot at 1/2000. It really shows the pulsing of the discharge lights.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • toragstorags Registered Users Posts: 4,615 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2010
    Icebear wrote: »
    That is one very useful thing to know. I knew it was an issue indoors, but had no idea the problem existed outdoors. I've only shot three games under lights (in three different stadiums) and the first didn't present the problem (and the lights were twice as bright too.)

    It may be that the lighting engineers set the phasing opposite on half the lights in the first stadium. That might have eliminated the problem by blending the pulses.

    Oh, believe me, with real estate taxes as high as they are in Fairfax County, I FEEL like I've already personally bought the damn stadium lights.

    That's not all. I've shot where the bulbs were warm & cool (probably partial replacements). One section of track was pink (must have been the sale bulbs)
    Rags
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2010
    torags wrote: »
    One section of track was pink (must have been the sale bulbs)

    B&W, Dude. Even in the pouring rain.
    1078124764_jQPMx-XL.jpg
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • NikolaiNikolai Registered Users Posts: 19,035 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2010
    Sports is really not my forte, but since I've shot a lot of marching bands (my two dotties were in bands from middle through high schools, so I was doing it for 7 years :-), I'm just wondering:
    * why on Earth do you shoot on Auto WB? headscratch.gif
    * in general why do you shout on auto *anything*, since lighting during the night games does not change? headscratch.gif
    * if you have a compelling reason to shout auto, why don't you shoot RAW and iron out WB in post (ACR/LR make it a no-brainer)? headscratch.gif

    And , of course, I couldn't pass up this oppornutiny: maybe it's an N-thing? mwink.gif
    "May the f/stop be with you!"
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2010
    Exposure was manual. I shoot nothing but NEF. WB doesn't matter a hill of beans under discharge lighting. Hell Nik, I even shot a calibration target before the game. Three damn times I shot the same calibration target, and it was ridiculously a different color each time. The light temperature changes 60 times a second. You cannot account for that. If you set your WB on "Fluorescent" you will get the same weird fluctuations, and no better results than setting it on "Auto." If I shot at 1/60 or slower, everything was fine using a custom WB, or Fluorescent, but at 1/320, it was impossible. I have three different kinds of calibration targets, and multiple "shoot-through" types of custom WB tools, and nothing can deal with a color temperature that changes 60 times a second.

    Not all stadium lights use this technology Nik. Maybe you were lucky. I'm one-for-three so far. Believe me on this . . . when you finally DO run into it, you'll be cussing and spitting 'till you remember, "Oh, yeah. B&W!" Or maybe you can shoot marching band at 1/60 with VR onmwink.gif.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • NikolaiNikolai Registered Users Posts: 19,035 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2010
    Icebear wrote: »
    Exposure was manual. I shoot nothing but NEF. WB doesn't matter a hill of beans under discharge lighting. Hell Nik, I even shot a calibration target before the game. Three damn times I shot the same calibration target, and it was ridiculously a different color each time. The light temperature changes 60 times a second. You cannot account for that. If you set your WB on "Fluorescent" you will get the same weird fluctuations, and no better results than setting it on "Auto." If I shot at 1/60 or slower, everything was fine using a custom WB, or Fluorescent, but at 1/320, it was impossible. I have three different kinds of calibration targets, and multiple "shoot-through" types of custom WB tools, and nothing can deal with a color temperature that changes 60 times a second.

    Not all stadium lights use this technology Nik. Maybe you were lucky. I'm one-for-three so far. Believe me on this . . . when you finally DO run into it, you'll be cussing and spitting 'till you remember, "Oh, yeah. B&W!" Or maybe you can shoot marching band at 1/60 with VR onmwink.gif.

    Ah, OK, that makes sense. Yes, my exposures were on a slower side, since bands don't move too fast (although those pretty color guards sometimes do:-).
    Interesting. Good to know! thumb.gif
    "May the f/stop be with you!"
  • toragstorags Registered Users Posts: 4,615 Major grins
    edited November 7, 2010
    "* in general why do you shout on auto *anything*, since lighting during the night games does not change? "

    Absolutely wrong on cycling lights. A portion of an array of lights are always recycling, changing tonality. Auto WB is probably as good as any other solution , I would guess.

    B&W tho' seems to be a solution for most keepers
    Rags
  • David EvertsenDavid Evertsen Registered Users Posts: 524 Major grins
    edited November 7, 2010
    torags wrote: »
    "* in general why do you shout on auto *anything*, since lighting during the night games does not change? "

    Absolutely wrong on cycling lights. A portion of an array of lights are always recycling, changing tonality. Auto WB is probably as good as any other solution , I would guess.

    B&W tho' seems to be a solution for most keepers

    AWB is the way to go with Cycling lights or should I say Indoor or Outdoor artificial light., if you check the Sportsshooter board post you will realize that sometimes the tone and tint changes as well as the K of the light. Take what you have and fix it the best you can your post processing. 99% of what I shoot is at night under artificial lighting indoors and out, just like buying a light bulb at the store sometimes they just put in what is cheaper and that really affects the WB.
  • rockcanyonphotosrockcanyonphotos Registered Users Posts: 117 Major grins
    edited November 8, 2010
    I run into this problem at certain outdoor fields and the higher the ISO, the worse the problem. The only good solution I have found is to use flash. However even a flash only solves the WB problem if you set your exposure so the photo is underexposed by about 2 full stops so the flash is essentially the only significant source of light
    www.rockcanyonphotos.com

    Canon 1DM4, 300mm 2.8, 70-200mm 2.8, 200mm 1.8, 24-70mm 2.8, 85mm 1.8
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