Camera's, rain and models...
Had a chance to shoot a young man named Eric today though the weather was horrendous....
He came to Los Angeles to work as a runway model.
Wasn't fearful of my D700 getting wet though the SB800 and inexpensive radio trigger where another thing all together.
A few from today:
1.
2.
3.
I used an SB800 set at 1/4 power shot through a 42" umbrella triggered by radio transmitter as the augmentative light source. The camera metered the ambient light at about f/5.6 1/60 at ISO200 so I manually shot at f/4 1/125
C&C always welcome
He came to Los Angeles to work as a runway model.
Wasn't fearful of my D700 getting wet though the SB800 and inexpensive radio trigger where another thing all together.
A few from today:
1.
2.
3.
I used an SB800 set at 1/4 power shot through a 42" umbrella triggered by radio transmitter as the augmentative light source. The camera metered the ambient light at about f/5.6 1/60 at ISO200 so I manually shot at f/4 1/125
C&C always welcome
Yo soy Reynaldo
0
Comments
I would have thought a larger aperture might have been your choice to further blur the bg.
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
I think I wanted to be greedy with regards to control of ambient light by making it appear a wee bit darker and Eric wanted the background fairly visible so we collaborated a bit.
Yes, the 50MM is a gem for the money
It is about how that thing looks photographed." Garry Winogrand
Avatar credit: photograph by Duane Michals- picture of me, 'Smash Palace' album
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Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
If I have a client with an obvious blemish I would definitely mention it in pre shoot or if I had an inexperienced person I would discuss posing appropriate for males and females, head tilts and what not.
But in this case I thought it would be insulting had I brought it up just the same if I had a client who had terrible dark rings around their eyes.....
Much easier to just touch up in post.
John, I'll have an opportunity to photograph him in action as he's inviting me to one of his runway shows soon....
I'm sure your correct in assuming that this is common practice for male runway models.....
Brain, thanks
I'll post everything I can here when I gather up some links as it's not as expensive as I thought it would be to get some gear to make fabulous images.
The whole idea is to have complete control of your lighting hence the use of totally manual flash as well as camera settings.
After meeting Scott Robert Lim I decided that I wanted that kind of control too.
He uses inexpensive flashguns and radio triggers to create light that either augments or totally modifies the ambient light.
Many pros do this all the time with equipment that costs thousands of dollars.
He showed us (Smugmug meet) how we can do this with very affordable gear.
Triggers like these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W3IXZW/ref=oss_product
His are probably very similar though a bit higher in cost plus you get three triggers.
Here is a cheaper alternative:
Ebay
His flashguns are adjustable from full to 1/64 power but I found this one that is adjustable to 1/16 power for only 90 dollars.
As for inexpensive light modifiers and stands, here is what I have that works well for the price:
Umbrella holder with shoe mount
44" umbrella
I have Manfrotto stands that came with my Elinchrom kit but here is a more affordable alternative.
Here is an excellent DYI beauty dish made by forum member and all around great guy and photographer Alex:
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=180289&highlight=beauty+dish
I think there are plenty of great options on a budget and once you dial in your lighting you can make beautiful portraits on the cheap.
As I mentioned above, I like to meter the ambient light with the in camera metering, I'll set it to matrix or evaluative depending on what it's called on your camera body and while in Aperture mode I'll point the camera at the brightest area of the location where I am shooting to see what it decides for exposure.
I'll also do this in fully auto mode to get a reading of overall settings, what the camera decides for aperture and exposure at ISO200.
I'll then calculate my manual settings based on what I want at what aperture.
If the camera choses 1/80 at f/5.6 and I want to shoot at f/2 I'll adjust the exposure time accordingly making sure not to exceed the flash sync speed. If this is the case I'll bump the f/stop to f/4 or higher instead because I have a pet peeve about blown areas in my photographs. I know some know how to make good use of this but this doesn't work for me :-)
Right now I only own one flashgun so I'll set it to the appropriate power level based on my camera settings.
Scott has a simple guide that I attached here that is very helpful and it works!
Practice, practice, practice...
I can't wait to get more flashguns for rim lighting and or hair lights as well as lighting up backgrounds with gels and stuff.....
Much to learn and I can't think of a better place to be among all the talent here.
Now back to talking about the pictures you posted. :hide
It is about how that thing looks photographed." Garry Winogrand
Avatar credit: photograph by Duane Michals- picture of me, 'Smash Palace' album
I've learned so much here that it's great to be able to give back and share information.....
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I like the third one best. Slight crop from the left to get rid of the orange building and the light space under his arm, then clone out the branch in the upper right. Nice shot.
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