Are the AF systems 'fine' enough to put a focus point on the person and have it squeak through the fence?
I can't speak for Richard, but I have always used the center auto-focus point, exclusively, first focusing on what I want in sharp, then composing. Been doing this so long, it's all one motion, very fast. This would be one way of handling the above issue. I rarely use multiple auto-focus points.
Nice shot - I like the pattern.
Like Sara, I mostly use center point, focus and re-compose. In this one, I tried to focus on the face. It was shot at f/6.3, 180mm from a distance of (guessing) 10 meters, which gives about a foot of prime DOF behind the focal plane. The grate was immediately adjacent to the window, so I'm guessing that even if AF locked on to the grid, it would still be OK. Looking at the full resolution detail, it's not eye-slashingly sharp, but is close enough for rock 'n' roll.
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I am curious, did you use manual focus for this, turn off your AF, or did it capture the face and not the grid in focus?
I know just how challenging this can be for AF systems.
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Are the AF systems 'fine' enough to put a focus point on the person and have it squeak through the fence?
I can't speak for Richard, but I have always used the center auto-focus point, exclusively, first focusing on what I want in sharp, then composing. Been doing this so long, it's all one motion, very fast. This would be one way of handling the above issue. I rarely use multiple auto-focus points.
Nice shot - I like the pattern.
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Like Sara, I mostly use center point, focus and re-compose. In this one, I tried to focus on the face. It was shot at f/6.3, 180mm from a distance of (guessing) 10 meters, which gives about a foot of prime DOF behind the focal plane. The grate was immediately adjacent to the window, so I'm guessing that even if AF locked on to the grid, it would still be OK. Looking at the full resolution detail, it's not eye-slashingly sharp, but is close enough for rock 'n' roll.