Why is this night shot yellow?

freewheelfreewheel Registered Users Posts: 25 Big grins
edited December 3, 2010 in Technique
Great site here, I'm trying some night shots with my 50d, just wondering how to fix the yellow(which is I assume from the street lights).
IMG_4850.jpg

Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,127 moderator
    edited November 29, 2010
    What image editing software do you have that you might use.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • freewheelfreewheel Registered Users Posts: 25 Big grins
    edited November 29, 2010
    I have a trial of lightroom 3 going but still trying to figure it out. I am also trying aperture 3 but i'm leaning toward lightroom.
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited November 29, 2010
    What Color setting was set on your camera when this was shot? AWB? Not Tungsten, I'll bet.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • freewheelfreewheel Registered Users Posts: 25 Big grins
    edited November 29, 2010
    Yes, AWB
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited November 29, 2010
    That is why your image is yellow, you used AWB. Tungsten lighting IS yellow, compared to daylight.

    Try reshooting with your camera set to Tungsten, and see if that isn't more satisfactory.

    What camera did you shoot this with? Raw file or jpg?

    If a RAW file, the color balance is easy to fix in your RAW conversion software. Jpgs are much more brittle for color correction in post processing.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • freewheelfreewheel Registered Users Posts: 25 Big grins
    edited November 29, 2010
    Thanks for the help, I shot this jpeg, I'll switch to tungsten and iso 100 ( i think this was 400).
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited November 29, 2010
    ISO 100 may be slow for night shots unless yoo use a tripod.

    Camera?
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited November 29, 2010
    Also shoot in raw so you can really utilize LRS 3 for all it is worth......Raw = negative........jpeg = polaroid (in a very simplified way of looking at it.).
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

  • freewheelfreewheel Registered Users Posts: 25 Big grins
    edited November 29, 2010
    I'm using a tripod and a 50d, I would shoot raw but at 20mb per frame i would be out of room pretty fast.

    btw where is the best place to learn lightroom?
  • adbsgicomadbsgicom Registered Users Posts: 3,615 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2010
    There are some good books. Much of the LR3 flow looks like the Camera Raw processor so if you know that, you are well underway for using LR3. I used the Scott Kelby book for LR2 and it was helpful in getting a lot flow thought through. Also, there is another book called the "Adobe Lightroom 3: The Missing FAQ" by Victoria Bampton which fills in many of the little corner cases and shortcuts. I've found some good stuff in there.
    - Andrew

    Who is wise? He who learns from everyone.
    My SmugMug Site
  • ToshidoToshido Registered Users Posts: 759 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2010
    freewheel wrote: »
    I'm using a tripod and a 50d, I would shoot raw but at 20mb per frame i would be out of room pretty fast.

    btw where is the best place to learn lightroom?


    You could always try one of the sRAW settings for smaller file size and still the extra information in RAW formats. Comes down to if you need the maximum number of pixels or not.
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2010
    freewheel wrote: »
    I would shoot raw but at 20mb per frame i would be out of room pretty fast.

    Please don't take this the wrong way, but that is one of the silliest things I've read here in a long time. An 8Gig CF card will cost you $40.00. You can get what, 400 shots on that? How many snow scenes are you planning to take before you upload and reformat anyway?
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2010
    freewheel wrote: »
    btw where is the best place to learn lightroom?

    On a less jerky note mwink.gif try NAPP and their Lightroom Killer Tips.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2010
    Icebear wrote: »
    Please don't take this the wrong way, but that is one of the silliest things I've read here in a long time. An 8Gig CF card will cost you $40.00. You can get what, 400 shots on that? How many snow scenes are you planning to take before you upload and reformat anyway?

    I am paying less than $20 for my 8gb CF cards (Transcend 8gb cards from New Egg) and since I shoot RAW+ jpg....I get 210 per card.......but stop around 195)......and heard that wally world had Seagate 2tb external drives for $70 last weekend......
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

  • freewheelfreewheel Registered Users Posts: 25 Big grins
    edited November 30, 2010
    Thanks again guys, I have to buy a couple more cards(currently only have a 4gb). maybe shooting raw from the start is a good idea, looking at raw vs jpeg there's no shortage of arguments for and against. I'm pretty new at this and would like to get off on the right foot.
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited November 30, 2010
    Shooting jpgs is not sin, but is more unforgiving of errors in White Balance settings in your camera, than Raw files are.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • Red BullRed Bull Registered Users Posts: 719 Major grins
    edited December 1, 2010
    You may want to do some reading on RAW and how to use it. It really is much better than jpeg if you plan on doing post processing. Once I learned how to post process using RAW, my work improved and I have never gone back to jpeg. It's especially useful for adjusting the white balance which is as easy as moving a slider.
    -Steven

    http://redbull.smugmug.com

    "Money can't buy happiness...But it can buy expensive posessions that make other people envious, and that feels just as good.":D

    Canon 20D, Canon 50 1.8 II, Canon 70-200 f/4L, Canon 17-40 f/4 L, Canon 100mm 2.8 Macro, Canon 430ex.
  • richmoffittrichmoffitt Registered Users Posts: 27 Big grins
    edited December 2, 2010
    Right now I use both modes. In really unpredictable light settings I'll use RAW, otherwise I'll switch back to JPEG to save a little space if I have a good feel for the color temperature and metering. I've already used over 2TB of storage over the past year as I've been trying my hand at photos of various competitions (essentially sports) and I was using all RAW. When you're regularly topping 1000 images shot over a single weekend, you start to run out of space a little faster.

    Then again, compared to folks that do video this is probably not too impressive. :)
  • InsuredDisasterInsuredDisaster Registered Users Posts: 1,132 Major grins
    edited December 3, 2010
    I'd suggest always shooting RAW in artificial light at least, since that is what always throws the AWB. Definately get some more cards.
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